Brussels 2023 - revisits

GIST

GIST, Poechenellekelder, In 't Spinnekopke, Booze 'n Blues, Brasserie Verschueren, Brasserie de la Union and La Brocante were revisited between Sunday 2 July and Wednesday 5 July 2023 after four days in Antwerp.

GIST

Located at Place de la Vieille Halle au Bles 30, up the Rue du Chene from Poechenellekelder, GIST has become a regular visit due to its closeness and the fact that cask ale is offered from two handpumps at the far end of the bar.

On the Monday afternoon, Tim met up with Mark, David, Les and Graham at a table by the front window and ordered Hoppy Blonde by Bobbi Brewery from Ittre, south of Brussels. With happy hour from 17h - 19h daily offering a one euro saving 'sur les pintes', Tim next ordered a 'pint' (50cl) of locally brewed Pale Ale by Drogenbos (7.20 euros) served by handpump. Music playing included tracks by Buffalo Springfield and Led Zeppelin.

It was nice to find Geoffrey behind the bar again and hand him a copy of the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine which included a mention of my previous evening visit to GIST. Geoffrey explained that the two handpumps function in different ways and when pouring it's only possible to keep the nozzle at the base of the glass with one of them.

See Tim's Threads post for more photos including glasses of the Bobbi and Drogenbos beers: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvAhJKOseXH

Poechenellekelder

Just follow the signs to Mannekin Pis to find Poechenellekelder on Rue du Chene.

We found a table upstairs from the entrance in a room that was less busy than the outside area.

The annual visit here always includes a meal consisting of a large dish of lasagne. The limited range of draught beers is complemented by a large list of Belgian beers. Having enjoyed Val Dieu Cuvee at Het Souke in Antwerp, Tim chose a 33cl bottle of Val Dieu Triple, served in a branded chalice glass.

See Tim's Threads post for more photos including Mannekin Pis and the Val Dieu Triple at Poechenellekelder: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvAmYIfMtvJ

In 't Spinnekopke

Retaining its symbol of a spider's web, In 't Spinnekopke is under new management since my previous visit with West Berkshire CAMRA friends in February 2015. Sven & Esther took over with Jonathan as co-partner and Thomas as chef. It now offers excellent value and we were lucky to secure a table by arriving fairly early on the Tuesday evening.

All the Belgian dishes on the menu were tempting and the beer menu was also impressive offering four draught beers and 22 bottles / cans including Trappist beers, and many from Brussels breweries including Brasserie de la Mule, Brasserie de la Senne, Vandekelder and Tipsy Tribe.

For more photos including menus and dishes see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvCUopmsK5o

Booze 'n Blues

Just a short walk away and our next stop is Tim's old favourite also dating back to the 2015 visit - Booze 'n Blues. Although the recently extended terrace was busy, three of our group found a table there while Tim sat at a table indoors, just the other side of an open window from them. 

This was also the closest table to the Rock-Ola jukebox and once Tim discovered it was on free play this early in the evening he would request a new selection, using the relevant chunky red button, just before each song ended.

As the Brasserie de la Senne branded terrace umbrellas suggest, the bar stocks a wide range of their beers with Zenne Pils, Brussels Calling IPA, Jambe-de-Bois Tripel, ZinneBir Blonde and Taras Boulba Session Blonde on draught as well as several spirits. Tim enjoyed unfiltered Zenne Pils on this visit.

For more photos including one of Tim's juke box selections (Timmy Thomas - Why Can't We Live Together), see his Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvCbZM7MD1U

Brasserie Verschueren

Tuesday 4 July 2023 was our last full day in Brussels and after a first visit to Au Daringman we took the Metro from Sainte Catherine to Parvis Saint Gilles. Brasserie Verschueren is only a short walk from there (providing you leave from the exit that leads to the main entrance next to Broebbeleir and not the entrance in Rue de Hotel des Monnaies).

The art deco interior dates from 1935. Also mentioned in the 'Our history' page of the Brasserie's website is that it was one of the bases of the Resistance during the Occupation. The board at the far end with moveable coloured plates for football teams had space for scores to be chalked up.for each match.

The limited beer menu includes draught Verschueren Saison (brewed by De Ranke) and Verschueren Tripel (brewed by Brasserie de la Senne) in bottles - enjoyed by Tim on this occasion. It's possible to take away a four pack of Tripels.

For more photos including the metro station and church of St Gilles near the bar, see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvC8Iv0MlBk

Brasserie de l'Union

David, Graham and Mark - before we went inside

At the eastern corner of the broad Parvis St Gilles pedestrian area is Brasserie de l'Union, another bar with connections to Royale Union Saint-Gilloise football club.

The spacious brasserie is simply furnished and features colourful stained glass on the side windows and multiple black and white photos above the bar. Wearing a blue USG shirt, a top fan of the football club chatted with us. Tim took a break from Belgian beer and ordered a coffee here. This would be a hangover free trip!

For more photos including one of our new USG friend, see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvDE4D9sc4D

La Brocante

First visited in February 2015 before a Cantillon brewery tour, La Brocante has become a regular bar to visit due to it being within easy walking distance of Brussels Midi station for Eurostar services. The daily flea market in adjacent Place du Jeu de Balle may be of interest but note that it closes down in the afternoon.

There is a good beer range and the baguette 'sandwiches' are ideal for lunch. It may be resting on its laurels a bit as the prices are not that cheap for a cafe relying on market trade and the service always seems slow but the staff really cannot be faulted and it was a pleasure to watch the day's menu being freshly chalked up on the blackboard ending with red chalk emphasising Ni Frites, Ni Gaufres (waffles)! Another blackboard, behind the bar, was paintstakingly chalked with flags and text to show in French and English (but not Dutch) that the beer menu is available online using a QR code. This includes a range of Gueuze and Kriek. 

On his last day in Brussels, Tim enjoyed an Orval with his ham and cheese 'sandwich'.

Tim's main grip on this visit was that the only music played was by ABBA and after David's departure and Mark's arrival he persuaded Graham to make a first visit with him to nearby CHAFF where the music choice was more contemporary and the beer range included more Brussels brewed beers.

See also the companion blog post:Brussels 2023 - first visits for more details of CHAFF and other excellent establishments in Brussels.

Antwerp 2023 - revisits

On my sixth visit to Antwerp (Thursday 29 June to Sunday 2 July 2023) and the first not coinciding with Beer Passion Weekend festival, there was time to revisit seven favourite bars in addition to those visited for the first time (Antwerp 2023 - first visits).

Cafe Kulminator

As it was near Hostel Pulcinella, our group managed three visits to Kulminator but I missed the third visit in order to meet up with Paul and Jennie in De Vagant on Saturday. Groups and tourists are not usually welcome at Kulminator and Dirk in his gatekeeper role must hear the words 'taste', 'cash' and 'euros' before considering admittance. Despite his age, the bright red frame of Dirk's spectacles made him look rather intimidating as he surveyed us on the pavement from his elevated position inside!

On our first visit, David fluffed his lines and said 'sample' instead of 'taste' but eventually the door was opened for us after assurance that we could pay for our drinks with cash (euros).

L to R: Paul R, Graham, Les, Simon, David, Tim & Mark. Photo: Jennie R

Paul and Jennie needed to point to our group, sat near the window, in order to gain admission after our earlier arrival on the Friday!

Leen served the beers for our group including Gueuze for Graham using the traditional method.

Although the classical music and traditions of the legendary Kulminator may not appeal to all, the price list has not been updated for several years resulting in better value than ever!

Tim enjoyed a total of three beers on his two visits with the 75cl bottle of St Feuillien Saison shared. The third beer was draught Gouden Carolus Cuvee van de Keizer Whisky Infused 2022 brewed in Mechelen by Het Anker.

De Vagant

In 2022, Tim had visited an updated De Vagant with a group to honour the late John Reynor with beers and jenevers served by Bart Daems, the new manager. On Saturday 1 July this year, Bart was wearing a Heino t-shirt and posed with the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine opened at the page with a story and photos from that day including John at top left of page in photo below.

This was Paul and Jennie's first visit to Antwerp and it was nice to meet up with them again here while the others were at Kulminator for the third afternoon running.

Tim enjoyed a draught Cherry Chouffe on this visit.

De Ware Jacob

It was only a short walk down Reyndersstraat and Vlasmarkt to reach De Ware Jacob.

The excellent draught range here includes (Tim's choice) Brasserie Dupont Avec les Bon Voeux (9.5% ABV), Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie Seef and St Barnardus Abt 12 (10% ABV). Although there was a table free outside we preferred to enjoy the surroundings of the compact room with its wood panelling, inlaid mirrors and traditional bar furniture.

Guy the owner was not around but Tim asked Dafne to pass on the autumn 2022 issue of Ullage which includes a mention of his previous visit.

Het Souke

Photo: Mark G. L to R: Tim, Les, Graham, David, Paul, Jennie, Simon

Tim was keen to revisit Het Souke after a first visit in 2022 when he met owner Jacob Gouka and enjoyed the music at the cafe on the corner of pedestrianised Hoogstraat and narrow HH Geeststraat.

This was the first time the whole group came together on the Thursday with Les, the last to arrive c/o FlixBus, now able to enjoy his first beer.

The five draught beers are Stella Artois, Bolleke, Seef, Val Dieu Cuvee and Tripel d'Anvers. 

There are 24 bottles including Trappist beers, Minerva and Bootjes Biers from Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and Tripppel and Blackout from Swiekes bv established in 2020 at Oud Turnhout, east of Antwerp.

Tim gave Jacob the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine which includes an article with his 2022 photos from Het Souk. James posed for a photo holding the relevant page open while resting his left arm in plaster on the shoulder of Maximilian - his 'best coworker yet'.

Paters Vaetje

We enjoyed simple meals like lasagne from the limited menu for the small kitchen next to the bar at Paters Vaetje on the Saturday evening. This reliable beer bar is easy to find as it faces the north west corner of the cathedral near the ground level Nello & Patrasche marble sculpture. Tim's beer selection was draught Brouwerij The Musketeers 'Joyride in a Shopping Cart' a 6.5% ABV honey ale from the brewery's Bucket List series of limited edition beers (4.10 euros). 

Oud Arsenaal

Tim and David's last beer in Antwerp on the Sunday would be at Oud Arsenaal on the way to Antwerp Centraal station for the train to Brussels. We were both keen to revisit this brown cafe with its interior dating from the 1920s. Regula Ysewijn mentions in Belgian Cafe Culture that it is one of the few cafes in Antwerp that is still run by the same family that started the business.

Every table inside was occupied when we arrived but we shared a table and then gained some elbow room as a lady next to us kindly moved to a vacant seat on the other side of her window table, to face her friend.

Tim was delighted with the draught hazy Seef bier which may become his beer of choice on future visits to Antwerp where it is widely available.

David noticed that the young man serving our drinks resembled the current owner and was able to confirm that he was indeed the son and so the tradition continues.

Oud Arsenaal is close to the busy weekend market in Theaterplein so a weekday visit may be more suitable for anyone looking for a quiet spot during the day. 

Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie

Revisiting Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and a meeting with Johan Van Dyck deserves a separate blog post to do it justice. Watch this space!

Brussels 2023 - first visits

Brussels Bourse / Beurs will be repurposed as Brussels Beer World with a 350 square metre terrace on the roof for the new Skybar. Our visit from 2 July 2023 was too early for a first visit as its planned opening date was postponed and it is surrounded by barriers. The Bourse has notable bars nearby that face it including Le Cirio on the north side and Falstaff on the south side.

Le Cirio

Derek Blyth reports that Le Cirio was founded in 1886 by Francesco Cirio of Turin as a delicatessen. It's interior was remodelled as an Italian grand cafe by Henri Coosemans in 1909.

Tim met Graham inside Le Cirio on Tuesday 2 July, as he was finishing his dish of Moules a la Mariniere / Frites (23 euros). Mark and David joined us soon afterwards.

Photos of the interior and Tim's Blanche de Bruges are included in his Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CuuB22bsiyL

Our group passed Het Zinneke bronze sculpture on the way to Au Daringman.

Au Daringman

Au Daringman, Rue de Flandre 37, is situated opposite Maison de la Bellone. 

In Belgian Cafe Culture, Regula Ysewijn writes that 'The story of Au Daringman starts in around 1942 with the family Hazendonk. The interior is unique in its kind with the geometrical shapes in wood and leather. Mr Hazendonk was a boxer and a member of the 'Daring Club de Bruxelles' in the 1950s-60s.'

A ceiling mounted Stella Artois sign occupies the full width of the cafe at its midpoint. Tim enjoyed listening to the music choice here - Dry Cleaning - as well as the decor and a Hoegaarden Blanche to drink. On a future visit, it would be interesting to see if the cafe is different later in the day and to look inside Maison de la Bellone.

Tim's Threads post has more photos: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CuuuKUIMQYY

Bar Victoria

On Monday 3 July, Tim and Les visited Halles St Gery for a coffee at the cafe / bar and a good look at the displays about Oradea and Arabesque (Zenzel). A guide to Brussels old port from the information desk would prove useful for finding an interesting route to Bar Victoria at the Gare Maritime Food Market. Our route took us to St Catherine and St Jean de Baptiste au Beguinage churches and then a visit to Institut Pacheco / Grand Hospice which has an outdoor bar and the Atelier for Gansbeek Brewing Co. See Tim's Threads posts for photos: Halles St Gery: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CuwYiAbMALd 

Grand Hospice: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CuwdntiMSM0

At Square Sainctelette (at the top of the Brussels old port walking route) we noticed two street sculptures (Cormorant and Agent 15 with De Vaartkapoen) before continuing north east on the far side of the canal past Tour & Taxis Entrepot Royal and then left to Gare Maritime where the Food Market is at the east end.

We met Graham inside and chose beers from the limited range of Bar Victoria drawn from beer tanks above the bar structure. Kwak Blonde and Stella Artois were variously chosen and ordered online. The beer menu is displayed on touch screens at the bar and the beers need to be collected from a side counter of the bar. A similar rule applies for the food outlets at Gare Maritime.

There are several breweries based nearby, including Brasserie de la Senne, En Stoemelings and La Source Beer Co, but these may not open every day.

See Tim's Threads post for photos of Gare Maritime, canalside vista and street sculptures: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/Cuwh_8asLzl 

Het Goudeblommeke in Papier

On Monday evening, Tim enjoyed a first visit to Het Goudeblommeke in Papier / La Fleur en Papier Dore with Mark, David and Graham. Named by art dealer Geert (Gerard) Bruane in 1944 after he acquired the cafe, it became a literary and artistic hub. After nine months of closure, the cafe reopened on 25 May 2023 'with the Brasserie Verschueren team, strengthened and supported by the same cultural organisations as before'.

The cultural heritage lives on in the shape of pictures and items on the interior walls that make it a fascinating space to explore. Tim suggested a second visit on Tuesday evening and after Monday's draught Saison chose a bottle of Brasserie de la Senne Jambe de Bois from the limited beer menu, as seen above. Gentle and soulful music enhanced the relaxed atmosphere at this new favourite bar.

For more photos see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/Cuw27OYsoe7 

Nuetnigenough

Earlier on the Monday we enjoyed a meal at Nuetnigenough which now operates a 'No reservations' policy. David sensibly ensured we arrived at 25 Rue du Lombard before 7pm and we were shown to a table by the window without the need to queue. Others arriving soon after us would still be queuing when we left, about an hour later.

The beer range, daily food menu, service and value must explain why this restaurant is so popular. On his first visit, Tim's choice of draught Brasserie Dupont Redor Pils was also a pleasant surprise. David enjoyed draught Gueuze Tilquin with his meal. 

Photo: Mark Geeson

For more photos of Nuetnigenough including dishes in place of the menus, see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/Cuw7TLlsKeC 

Le Coq

On Sunday evening at Poechenellekelder we met up with David D, who is often in Brussels, after his meal at Nuetnigenough. He generously bought our group a round of beers after leading us to Le Coq, near the Bourse. 

Valeir photo: David B

David B chose a Valeir Blonde and Tim eventually chose Brasserie de la Senne Saison van de Bruwer.  Le Coq is a long and narrow brown cafe with mirrors on the wall and floor tiles that were looking rather grubby. It was good to visit another respected Brusssels bar for the first time but it's not one that Tim is keen to revisit soon.

CHAFF

The last 'first visit' of this trip was on Wednesday 5 July after a substantial baguette 'sandwich' at La Brocante and as the clean up squad arrived at Place du Jeu de Balle / Vossenplein remove all the broken glass and rubbish left over from the daily market. Having endured repeated playings of an Abba album, Tim persuaded Graham to join him on a visit to nearby CHAFF while recently arrived Mark guarded our bags and ordered his La Brocante 'sandwich'.

Bistro Le CHAFF has an alternative informal style and a beer menu featuring several beers from new Brussels breweries on draught and in bottles or cans. Some interesting music was playing including Porches 2016 album Pool. 

Tim spoke to Mathieu at the bar who agreed to pass an autumn 2022 issue of Ullage magazine to Brasserie de la Mule as it featured the Schaerbeek based brewery. Mathieu also helped Tim to get a photo of the different colourways of the Illegaal Tropicaal cans which he would enjoy after a can of Brasserie de la Mule Saison.

Be warned that here are very steep and narrow steps up to the first floor room and to the toilets on the second floor. However, Mathieu had the experience to carry a round tray of beers upstairs with one hand!

For more photos including the food menu, hexagonal floor tiles, Illegal Tropicaal cans and Graham's Berliner Weisse in a glass with a handle, see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CuzmRZAsbtk 

Cafe Caberdouche

After arriving by train from Antwerp, the first 'first visit' of this Brussels trip was to Cafe Caberdouche at the Place de la Liberte on Sunday 2 July. The Jacques Brel hostel 'advance party' of Tim and David, now without luggage and with room keys, settled at a table outside Cafe Caberdouche overlooking the grassed area in the tree lined square.

Tim's choice of Brasserie de la Senne Crush was from a blackboard of extra beers beyond the standard beer menu of 7 draught beers and 15 bottled beers. Although we had a pleasant location, the breeze was cool and the sound of breaking glass accidents nearby was unnerving. Unless you are staying at the nearby hostel or perhaps visiting Bier Circus (open Tuesday - Friday), a visit to this out of the way  Cafe should not be a high priority.

Babel Bar (Jacques Brel Hostel)

Hostel courtyard with bar tables (daytime)

Later on Sunday evening, after visits to the reliable Poechenellekelder and a first visit to Le Coq we decided to try out the Jacques Brel hostel bar where four of us were staying. Hotel based Graham joined us for the bus to the Rue de la Presse stop leaving a short walk along Rue du Nord to reach the hostel which overlooks Place des Barricades.

With tables drawn together in the pleasant courtyard with a fountain to accommodate our group, Tim took the opportunity to enjoy Quatre Saison (6.5% ABV) and Cinq Cense (7% ABV Saison) beers from Brasserie de Jandrain-Jandrenouille based near Orp-Jauche, between Brussels and Liege. These were both economically priced at 3.60 euros, to suit a hosteller's budget. The multitasking barman was happy to see some well deserved coins from Tim's change end up in the tips jar.