Brussels Bourse / Beurs will be repurposed as
Brussels Beer World with a 350 square metre terrace on the roof for the new Skybar. Our visit from 2 July 2023 was too early for a first visit as its planned opening date was postponed and it is surrounded by barriers. The Bourse has notable bars nearby that face it including Le Cirio on the north side and Falstaff on the south side.
Derek Blyth reports that
Le Cirio was founded in 1886 by Francesco Cirio of Turin as a delicatessen. It's interior was remodelled as an Italian grand cafe by Henri Coosemans in 1909.
Tim met Graham inside
Le Cirio on Tuesday 2 July, as he was finishing his dish of Moules a la Mariniere / Frites (23 euros). Mark and David joined us soon afterwards.
Photos of the interior and Tim's Blanche de Bruges are included in his Threads post:
https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CuuB22bsiyLOur group passed
Het Zinneke bronze sculpture on the way to Au Daringman.
Au Daringman
In Belgian Cafe Culture, Regula Ysewijn writes that 'The story of Au Daringman starts in around 1942 with the family Hazendonk. The interior is unique in its kind with the geometrical shapes in wood and leather. Mr Hazendonk was a boxer and a member of the 'Daring Club de Bruxelles' in the 1950s-60s.'
A ceiling mounted Stella Artois sign occupies the full width of the cafe at its midpoint. Tim enjoyed listening to the music choice here - Dry Cleaning - as well as the decor and a Hoegaarden Blanche to drink. On a future visit, it would be interesting to see if the cafe is different later in the day and to look inside Maison de la Bellone.
Bar Victoria
On Monday 3 July, Tim and Les visited
Halles St Gery for a coffee at the cafe / bar and a good look at the displays about Oradea and Arabesque (Zenzel). A guide to Brussels old port from the information desk would prove useful for finding an interesting route to Bar Victoria at the Gare Maritime Food Market. Our route took us to St Catherine and St Jean de Baptiste au Beguinage churches and then a visit to Institut Pacheco /
Grand Hospice which has an outdoor bar and the Atelier for
Gansbeek Brewing Co. See Tim's Threads posts for photos: Halles St Gery:
https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CuwYiAbMALd At Square Sainctelette (at the top of the Brussels old port walking route) we noticed two street sculptures (Cormorant and Agent 15 with De Vaartkapoen) before continuing north east on the far side of the canal past Tour & Taxis Entrepot Royal and then left to Gare Maritime where the Food Market is at the east end.
We met Graham inside and chose beers from the limited range of
Bar Victoria drawn from beer tanks above the bar structure. Kwak Blonde and Stella Artois were variously chosen and ordered online. The beer menu is displayed on touch screens at the bar and the beers need to be collected from a side counter of the bar. A similar rule applies for the food outlets at Gare Maritime.
There are several breweries based nearby, including Brasserie de la Senne, En Stoemelings and La Source Beer Co, but these may not open every day.
Het Goudeblommeke in Papier
On Monday evening, Tim enjoyed a first visit to
Het Goudeblommeke in Papier /
La Fleur en Papier Dore with Mark, David and Graham. Named by art dealer Geert (Gerard) Bruane in 1944 after he acquired the cafe, it became a literary and artistic hub. After nine months of closure, the cafe reopened on 25 May 2023 'with the Brasserie Verschueren team, strengthened and supported by the same cultural organisations as before'.
The cultural heritage lives on in the shape of pictures and items on the interior walls that make it a fascinating space to explore. Tim suggested a second visit on Tuesday evening and after Monday's draught Saison chose a bottle of Brasserie de la Senne Jambe de Bois from the limited beer menu, as seen above. Gentle and soulful music enhanced the relaxed atmosphere at this new favourite bar.
Nuetnigenough
Earlier on the Monday we enjoyed a meal at
Nuetnigenough which now operates a 'No reservations' policy. David sensibly ensured we arrived at 25 Rue du Lombard before 7pm and we were shown to a table by the window without the need to queue. Others arriving soon after us would still be queuing when we left, about an hour later.
The beer range, daily food menu, service and value must explain why this restaurant is so popular. On his first visit, Tim's choice of draught Brasserie Dupont Redor Pils was also a pleasant surprise. David enjoyed draught Gueuze Tilquin with his meal.
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| Photo: Mark Geeson |
Le Coq
On Sunday evening at Poechenellekelder we met up with David D, who is often in Brussels, after his meal at Nuetnigenough. He generously bought our group a round of beers after leading us to
Le Coq, near the Bourse.
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| Valeir photo: David B |
David B chose a Valeir Blonde and Tim eventually chose Brasserie de la Senne Saison van de Bruwer. Le Coq is a long and narrow brown cafe with mirrors on the wall and floor tiles that were looking rather grubby. It was good to visit another respected Brusssels bar for the first time but it's not one that Tim is keen to revisit soon.
CHAFF
The last 'first visit' of this trip was on Wednesday 5 July after a substantial baguette 'sandwich' at La Brocante and as the clean up squad arrived at
Place du Jeu de Balle / Vossenplein remove all the broken glass and rubbish left over from the daily market. Having endured repeated playings of an Abba album, Tim persuaded Graham to join him on a visit to nearby CHAFF while recently arrived Mark guarded our bags and ordered his La Brocante 'sandwich'.
Bistro Le
CHAFF has an alternative informal style and a beer menu featuring several beers from new Brussels breweries on draught and in bottles or cans. Some interesting music was playing including Porches 2016 album Pool.
Tim spoke to Mathieu at the bar who agreed to pass an autumn 2022 issue of
Ullage magazine to Brasserie de la Mule as it featured the Schaerbeek based brewery. Mathieu also helped Tim to get a photo of the different colourways of the Illegaal Tropicaal cans which he would enjoy after a can of Brasserie de la Mule Saison.
Be warned that here are very steep and narrow steps up to the first floor room and to the toilets on the second floor. However, Mathieu had the experience to carry a round tray of beers upstairs with one hand!
Cafe Caberdouche
After arriving by train from Antwerp, the first 'first visit' of this Brussels trip was to
Cafe Caberdouche at the Place de la Liberte on Sunday 2 July. The Jacques Brel hostel 'advance party' of Tim and David, now without luggage and with room keys, settled at a table outside Cafe Caberdouche overlooking the grassed area in the tree lined square.
Tim's choice of Brasserie de la Senne Crush was from a blackboard of extra beers beyond the standard beer menu of 7 draught beers and 15 bottled beers. Although we had a pleasant location, the breeze was cool and the sound of breaking glass accidents nearby was unnerving. Unless you are staying at the nearby hostel or perhaps visiting Bier Circus (open Tuesday - Friday), a visit to this out of the way Cafe should not be a high priority.
Babel Bar (Jacques Brel Hostel)
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| Hostel courtyard with bar tables (daytime) |
Later on Sunday evening, after visits to the reliable Poechenellekelder and a first visit to Le Coq we decided to try out the
Jacques Brel hostel bar where four of us were staying. Hotel based Graham joined us for the bus to the Rue de la Presse stop leaving a short walk along Rue du Nord to reach the hostel which overlooks Place des Barricades.
With tables drawn together in the pleasant courtyard with a fountain to accommodate our group, Tim took the opportunity to enjoy Quatre Saison (6.5% ABV) and Cinq Cense (7% ABV Saison) beers from
Brasserie de Jandrain-Jandrenouille based near Orp-Jauche, between Brussels and Liege. These were both economically priced at 3.60 euros, to suit a hosteller's budget. The multitasking barman was happy to see some well deserved coins from Tim's change end up in the tips jar.
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