Antwerp - Spring 2024

For a three night visit in March 2024, we stayed at the recently renovated Hotel National which is well located within easy walking distance of Groenplaats and its metro station, served by several tram routes from Antwerp Centraal station environs.

Many of the city's best beer cafe bars are within easy walking distance. Over this stay, Tim enjoyed showing Meg some of his favourites, previously featured in posts on this blog, including: 

De Ware Jacob (run by Guy Dockx with Brasserie Dupont Avec les Bons Voeux on draught and bottles / cans of beers from all the Antwerp area breweries); 

Het Souke (run by Jacob Gouka with well chosen music and beers); 

Kulminator (run by Dirk and Leen with classical music playing but a bit chilly inside on this occasion. NB Cash only, give purpose of visit as to taste beer and not just drink it!);

De Vagant  

De Vagant (run by Bart Daems with high ceiling, a good choice of beers and jenevers);

Pelikaan (on a Melkmarkt corner, decorated with enamel signs on the outside and neon signs inside).

De Muze

Opposite Pelikaan on Melkmarkt, it was a pleasant surprise to visit De Muze, for the first time, after spotting on the bar's Facebook page that it features live jazz music every night.

On our first visit we found a 'railway carriage style' private table with a view of the side of the stage. 

De Muze 5 featuring a pianist, double bass, drums, sax and trumpet sounded great. There's no admission charge but a 50 cent supplement per drink is applied when live music is on, usually after 9pm.

There's a good draught beer menu (photo above) and a further two dozen bottled beers to choose from.

With dim lighting, high ceilings and interesting decor, De Muze has a lot of character and we revisited the following night for more jazz and beer!

Cafe Scaldis

Tim has visited many of Antwerp's traditional beer cafes featured in Regula Ysewijn's book 'Belgian Cafe Culture'. On this stay his mission was to visit Cafe Scaldis, Cadixstraat1 in Eilandje neighbourhood, once the heart of docklands but now surrounded by new residential housing developments.

As Regula Ysewijn writes 'Cafe Scaldis was founded in 1946 by the parents of current landlady Jose. The wooden bar comes from a 1920s cafe which makes cafe Scaldis look a lot older than it is'. 

A visit needs to be planned carefully as it is only open on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, from 12 noon until midnight. Note also that cash payment is expected.

After a visit to nearby Museum aan de Stroom (MAS), on a bright afternoon, with a cold east wind blowing, we opted to sit inside cafe Scaldis. As the only customers seated inside, for some of the time, it was a pleasure to chat with Jose and to be photographed with her before leaving.

Stella Artois is the only beer on tap but bottled beers are also available. When it's busier the barrel tables in front of the bar allow groups to sit together at the bar. Jose mentioned that her regular customers usually visit later in the day.

More revisits + Cafe Hopper + Chatleroi

With time to spare between leaving Cafe Scaldis and 4pm when the Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie taproom opens on a Thursday in March, we walked further north to view the architecturally impressive Antwerp Port House / Havenhuis. The old fire station is topped by the new Zaha Hadid Architects' structure. It is situated at the northern end of the 24 tram route. 

Also of architectural interest is the Straatsburgbrug (Strasbourg Bridge) 'traction station' brick building nearby which the tram circles before returning to the city. The oval-shaped building includes external steps to allow elevated viewpoints for the public and was designed by Van Belle & Medina as part of the Brabo 2 project. 

It's always a pleasure to visit the Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie taproom. The soundtrack was a mixed bag on this afternoon but it was nice to hear Home by Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros. Tim left an Ullage magazine (Autumn 2023) which included a feature on the taproom for its founder, Johan Van Dyck, who had kindly provided our group with an impromptu brewery tour in June 2023.

Also visited in June 2023, Dr Beer was our next destination, also quite near to MAS. It was busy for a Thursday afternoon but we found a good table (near hanging cane chairs and an anatomical model!) in the cosy surroundings and were expertly assisted in choosing beers by Jeroen Peeters who was happy to provide Meg with a sample of De Mortselarij Miss-T to taste from a stemmed black glass.

Before leaving, Jeroen was pleased to be given a West Berkshire CAMRA Ullage magazine (Autumn 2023) with a mention of Dr Beer and he had soon featured a photo of us with it on the bar and shop's instagram account realdrbeer.

On our last morning in Antwerp we visited the renovated Museum of Fine Arts (KMSKA) which is recommended for art and design lovers. There were special exhibits about James Ensor and Rik Wouters. Remember to allow enough time to get maximum value from the 20 euro admission charge.

It's situated in the Zuid neighbourhood, even further south from the cathedral than Dansing Chocola, where we dined on the night we arrived. 

Although impressed by the art and interiors, we decided against refreshments at the cafe at KMSKA and instead headed to the roundabout at the southern end of Leopold de Waelplaats, the space in front of the museum. There are several cafes in this vicinity including Chatleroi, Wijnbistro Patine and Cafe Hopper. A blackboard outside Chatleroi (closed until 4pm) lists dates when the cafe hosts concerts and DJs. 

We were happy with our eventual choice of Cafe Hopper where most tables were taken. Some customers were reading from a supply of newspapers on top of a grand piano and good music was playing. While Meg had a cappuccino, Tim finally ordered his first Bolleke De Koninck of the visit (normally the first beer ordered, when in the city where it's brewed, rather than the last!).

Antwerp 2023 - revisits

On my sixth visit to Antwerp (Thursday 29 June to Sunday 2 July 2023) and the first not coinciding with Beer Passion Weekend festival, there was time to revisit seven favourite bars in addition to those visited for the first time (Antwerp 2023 - first visits).

Cafe Kulminator

As it was near Hostel Pulcinella, our group managed three visits to Kulminator but I missed the third visit in order to meet up with Paul and Jennie in De Vagant on Saturday. Groups and tourists are not usually welcome at Kulminator and Dirk in his gatekeeper role must hear the words 'taste', 'cash' and 'euros' before considering admittance. Despite his age, the bright red frame of Dirk's spectacles made him look rather intimidating as he surveyed us on the pavement from his elevated position inside!

On our first visit, David fluffed his lines and said 'sample' instead of 'taste' but eventually the door was opened for us after assurance that we could pay for our drinks with cash (euros).

L to R: Paul R, Graham, Les, Simon, David, Tim & Mark. Photo: Jennie R

Paul and Jennie needed to point to our group, sat near the window, in order to gain admission after our earlier arrival on the Friday!

Leen served the beers for our group including Gueuze for Graham using the traditional method.

Although the classical music and traditions of the legendary Kulminator may not appeal to all, the price list has not been updated for several years resulting in better value than ever!

Tim enjoyed a total of three beers on his two visits with the 75cl bottle of St Feuillien Saison shared. The third beer was draught Gouden Carolus Cuvee van de Keizer Whisky Infused 2022 brewed in Mechelen by Het Anker.

De Vagant

In 2022, Tim had visited an updated De Vagant with a group to honour the late John Reynor with beers and jenevers served by Bart Daems, the new manager. On Saturday 1 July this year, Bart was wearing a Heino t-shirt and posed with the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine opened at the page with a story and photos from that day including John at top left of page in photo below.

This was Paul and Jennie's first visit to Antwerp and it was nice to meet up with them again here while the others were at Kulminator for the third afternoon running.

Tim enjoyed a draught Cherry Chouffe on this visit.

De Ware Jacob

It was only a short walk down Reyndersstraat and Vlasmarkt to reach De Ware Jacob.

The excellent draught range here includes (Tim's choice) Brasserie Dupont Avec les Bon Voeux (9.5% ABV), Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie Seef and St Barnardus Abt 12 (10% ABV). Although there was a table free outside we preferred to enjoy the surroundings of the compact room with its wood panelling, inlaid mirrors and traditional bar furniture.

Guy the owner was not around but Tim asked Dafne to pass on the autumn 2022 issue of Ullage which includes a mention of his previous visit.

Het Souke

Photo: Mark G. L to R: Tim, Les, Graham, David, Paul, Jennie, Simon

Tim was keen to revisit Het Souke after a first visit in 2022 when he met owner Jacob Gouka and enjoyed the music at the cafe on the corner of pedestrianised Hoogstraat and narrow HH Geeststraat.

This was the first time the whole group came together on the Thursday with Les, the last to arrive c/o FlixBus, now able to enjoy his first beer.

The five draught beers are Stella Artois, Bolleke, Seef, Val Dieu Cuvee and Tripel d'Anvers. 

There are 24 bottles including Trappist beers, Minerva and Bootjes Biers from Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and Tripppel and Blackout from Swiekes bv established in 2020 at Oud Turnhout, east of Antwerp.

Tim gave Jacob the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine which includes an article with his 2022 photos from Het Souk. James posed for a photo holding the relevant page open while resting his left arm in plaster on the shoulder of Maximilian - his 'best coworker yet'.

Paters Vaetje

We enjoyed simple meals like lasagne from the limited menu for the small kitchen next to the bar at Paters Vaetje on the Saturday evening. This reliable beer bar is easy to find as it faces the north west corner of the cathedral near the ground level Nello & Patrasche marble sculpture. Tim's beer selection was draught Brouwerij The Musketeers 'Joyride in a Shopping Cart' a 6.5% ABV honey ale from the brewery's Bucket List series of limited edition beers (4.10 euros). 

Oud Arsenaal

Tim and David's last beer in Antwerp on the Sunday would be at Oud Arsenaal on the way to Antwerp Centraal station for the train to Brussels. We were both keen to revisit this brown cafe with its interior dating from the 1920s. Regula Ysewijn mentions in Belgian Cafe Culture that it is one of the few cafes in Antwerp that is still run by the same family that started the business.

Every table inside was occupied when we arrived but we shared a table and then gained some elbow room as a lady next to us kindly moved to a vacant seat on the other side of her window table, to face her friend.

Tim was delighted with the draught hazy Seef bier which may become his beer of choice on future visits to Antwerp where it is widely available.

David noticed that the young man serving our drinks resembled the current owner and was able to confirm that he was indeed the son and so the tradition continues.

Oud Arsenaal is close to the busy weekend market in Theaterplein so a weekday visit may be more suitable for anyone looking for a quiet spot during the day. 

Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie

Revisiting Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and a meeting with Johan Van Dyck deserves a separate blog post to do it justice. Watch this space!

Antwerp 2022 - Hoogstraat area

Hoogstraat is a pedestrian street that runs south from the Suikerrui / Grote Markt junction to St-Jansvliet which hosts a Sunday market and has the entrance to Sint-Annatunnel, the pedestrian tunnel under the river Scheldt.

Het Souke

Het Souke (formerly 't Half Souke) is at 59 Hoogstraat on the corner with Heilige Geest. It was featured in Regula Ysewijn's book Belgian Cafe Culture with a photo of Leentje, the cafe landlady standing on the uneven tiled floor. Closed when I last visited in 2019, an online report for Algemeen Dagblad dated 4 July 2021 mentions that Leentje had to move to a care home and the cafe was bought by Nathan Gouka and is now managed by his son Jacob. 

They have improved the cafe by laying a flat floor and installing a wide sash window that opens up onto Hoogstraat. 

The mirrors on the inside wall have been retained but the decor has changed with record album covers over the bar and a rack for newspapers and music magazines.

For tradition, a Bolleke De Koninck (Antwerp Pale Ale) was my first beer in Antwerp on a wet Thursday evening (30 June). The wet weather would explain why I had the cafe to myself until Andrew, Keith and Richard joined me.

In addition to the beers listed on the board, there were some bottles displayed on the bar. After a chat with Jacob, I opted for Steenuilke, a sweet blond beer from Brouwerij De Ryck (Herzele) which suited my taste.

On arrival, the music playing included some psychedelic tracks (Monterey by the Animals - 1967, Mind Flowers by Ultimate Spinach - 1968, Gold and Silver by Quicksilver Messenger Service - 1968) that also suited my taste so I was glad when the 'usual suspects' also enjoyed the ambience and we had a further round of beers - draught De Koninck Triple D'Anvers for me.

Before leaving I left a copy of West Berkshire CAMRA's Ullage magazine with Jacob and he kindly posed with it before placing it in the rack. Thankfully it had stopped raining by the time we left Het Souke.

Het Souke is an updated traditional cafe with strong musical links and is recommended for anyone with eclectic musical tastes.

De Vagant

Traditionally, the 'usual suspects' would visit De Vagant, Reyndersstraat 25, for jenevers after lunch and beers at De Groote Witte Arend, on the other side of the street. However, De Groote Witte Arend, housed in a convent building with a courtyard, has changed to Pannenkoekenhuis Familie Suykerbuyck so we did not visit this year.

With its high ceiling, traditional floor tiles, tall windows, traditional furniture and stripped back decor, De Vagant seems airy and timeless. 

Since our last visit the range of jenevers has been cut and the range of beers has increased making the menu easy to navigate. My first beer of the day was a draught Bolleke De Koninck and there was a chair waiting for me at an inside table occupied by the usual suspects.

Simon, Andrew, Dave + Bart with Ullage + Keith & Richard

With La Chouffe on tap and sufficient matching glassware we were able to give Bart, our considerate host, a simple order sometime later.

a glass of jenever for John Reynor RIP

The others also ordered jenevers and Dave ordered a jenever for absent John Reynor. Sadly, John passed away in 2021 as a result of sepsis. It was Dave and John who attended the first Bierpassie Weekend in 2000. Others would join this group in later years (as the junior member of this group, I had not met Dave on my four previous visits - from 2016 to 2019). 

Before leaving De Vagant, Bart kindly offered to photograph our group and at this point we had ordered further beers (including my Adriaen Brouwer Tripel by Brouwerij Roman of Oudenaarde) and shared John's glass of jenever with a toast to him. It was generous of Dave to pay the final bar bill of 144 euros. Cheers!

Subsequent research identified a post by VRT, the Flemish Radio and Television Broadcasting Organisation, mentioning that De Vagant closed on Sunday 5 December 2021 due to the age of manager Ronald Ferket. The jenever collection above the cafe went to the jenever museum in Hasselt.

Our next stop was TOTA, 24 Hoogstraat, for authentic Argentinian empanadas.

De Ware Jacob

Facing south, De Ware Jacob is at Vlasmarkt 19. The 2022 opening times are displayed in the window (Tue - Fri  / di-vr: 15:00, Sat - Sun / za-zo: 14:00).

This was the Saturday late afternoon rendezvous for Simon (after returning from Linkeroever via Sint-Annatunnel), Andrew, Dave and Tim (after returning from Linkeroever via free pedestrian ferry) and Keith and Richard (after visiting Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie).

Simon was first to arrive and picked a pavement table next to an English couple. We chose bottled beers from the menu which includes beers from 9 local breweries still operating out of the 11 listed. 

Draught beers available include Brasserie Dupont Bons Voeux (9.5% ABV) and Sint Barnardus Abt. with an overall choice from 120 beers.

Simon & Dave (I ate all the pies) + Cabardouche Blonde Stoot

The introductory page mentions that De Ware Jacob (true Jacob) has only been a cafe since 1977. This information can also be gleaned from Regula Ysewijn's book Belgian Cafe Culture. She mentions that the interior is much older and was salvaged from other cafes. The bar came from a cafe in Brussels and the wooden wall panelling comes from another cafe in Antwerp. 

The house is a listed building which dates back to the 16th century during the Spanish rule.

Regula also writes that the steep stairwell you find in the back is from this period and is one of the very few 'pagaddertrappen' in Antwerp. On this visit I remembered to photograph the stairwell after a visit to the toilets at the back.

Before leaving, there was also an opportunity to ask the landlord his name (Guy, pronounced Gie) and ask about the word on his t-shirt - goegezjost. Guy explained that it was local dialect for someone who had been tricked or cheated. 

Guy at the wheel! - a page from the beer menu

Guy accepted a copy of West Berkshire CAMRA magazine Ullage in exchange for a Dutch Bierproefgids (Beer Tasting Guide) produced by Ariel Meeusen 'BierCoach' of City Beerwalk from a pile on a shelf inside the cafe.

See also the 2019 Antwerp post which includes photos taken then when Tim and Steve visited De Ware Jacob previously. 

This is another cafe with an appeal to music lovers as the background music is blues, rock, jazz and folk. The maritime details of the cafe's interior and the beer range that includes draught Bons Voeux served by Guy are additional reasons to visit. 

Our group would now split with Tim and Keith visiting the new location of Msemen for a Moroccan meal in the 34 Hoogstraat premises that were previously Aura Brasserie. The food is prepared in an open kitchen. There is now a small fountain in the quiet courtyard at the back.

For more Antwerp background material please see Antwerp - The Usual Suspects 2022 and other linked posts from there.