Showing posts with label Booze 'n' Blues. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Booze 'n' Blues. Show all posts

22 July 2023

Brussels 2023 - revisits

GIST
GIST, Poechenellekelder, In 't Spinnekopke, Booze 'n Blues, Brasserie Verschueren, Brasserie de la Union and La Brocante were revisited between Sunday 2 July and Wednesday 5 July 2023 after four days in Antwerp.


GIST

Located at Place de la Vieille Halle au Bles 30, up the Rue du Chene from Poechenellekelder, GIST has become a regular visit due to its closeness and the fact that cask ale is offered from two handpumps at the far end of the bar.
On the Monday afternoon, Tim met up with Mark, David, Les and Graham at a table by the front window and ordered Hoppy Blonde by Bobbi Brewery from Ittre, south of Brussels. With happy hour from 17h - 19h daily offering a one euro saving 'sur les pintes', Tim next ordered a 'pint' (50cl) of locally brewed Pale Ale by Drogenbos (7.20 euros) served by handpump. Music playing included tracks by Buffalo Springfield and Led Zeppelin.
It was nice to find Geoffrey behind the bar again and hand him a copy of the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine which included a mention of my previous evening visit to GIST. Geoffrey explained that the two handpumps function in different ways and when pouring it's only possible to keep the nozzle at the base of the glass with one of them.
See Tim's Threads post for more photos including glasses of the Bobbi and Drogenbos beers: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvAhJKOseXH

Poechenellekelder

Just follow the signs to Mannekin Pis to find Poechenellekelder on Rue du Chene.
We found a table upstairs from the entrance in a room that was less busy than the outside area.
The annual visit here always includes a meal consisting of a large dish of lasagne. The limited range of draught beers is complemented by a large list of Belgian beers. Having enjoyed Val Dieu Cuvee at Het Souke in Antwerp, Tim chose a 33cl bottle of Val Dieu Triple, served in a branded chalice glass.
See Tim's Threads post for more photos including Mannekin Pis and the Val Dieu Triple at Poechenellekelder: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvAmYIfMtvJ

In 't Spinnekopke

Retaining its symbol of a spider's web, In 't Spinnekopke is under new management since my previous visit with West Berkshire CAMRA friends in February 2015. Sven & Esther took over with Jonathan as co-partner and Thomas as chef. It now offers excellent value and we were lucky to secure a table by arriving fairly early on the Tuesday evening.
All the Belgian dishes on the menu were tempting and the beer menu was also impressive offering four draught beers and 22 bottles / cans including Trappist beers, and many from Brussels breweries including Brasserie de la Mule, Brasserie de la Senne, Vandekelder and Tipsy Tribe.
For more photos including menus and dishes see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvCUopmsK5o

Booze 'n Blues

Just a short walk away and our next stop is Tim's old favourite also dating back to the 2015 visit - Booze 'n Blues. Although the recently extended terrace was busy, three of our group found a table there while Tim sat at a table indoors, just the other side of an open window from them. 
This was also the closest table to the Rock-Ola jukebox and once Tim discovered it was on free play this early in the evening he would request a new selection, using the relevant chunky red button, just before each song ended.
As the Brasserie de la Senne branded terrace umbrellas suggest, the bar stocks a wide range of their beers with Zenne Pils, Brussels Calling IPA, Jambe-de-Bois Tripel, ZinneBir Blonde and Taras Boulba Session Blonde on draught as well as several spirits. Tim enjoyed unfiltered Zenne Pils on this visit.
For more photos including one of Tim's juke box selections (Timmy Thomas - Why Can't We Live Together), see his Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvCbZM7MD1U

Brasserie Verschueren

Tuesday 4 July 2023 was our last full day in Brussels and after a first visit to Au Daringman we took the Metro from Sainte Catherine to Parvis Saint Gilles. Brasserie Verschueren is only a short walk from there (providing you leave from the exit that leads to the main entrance next to Broebbeleir and not the entrance in Rue de Hotel des Monnaies).
The art deco interior dates from 1935. Also mentioned in the 'Our history' page of the Brasserie's website is that it was one of the bases of the Resistance during the Occupation. The board at the far end with moveable coloured plates for football teams had space for scores to be chalked up.for each match.
The limited beer menu includes draught Verschueren Saison (brewed by De Ranke) and Verschueren Tripel (brewed by Brasserie de la Senne) in bottles - enjoyed by Tim on this occasion. It's possible to take away a four pack of Tripels.
For more photos including the metro station and church of St Gilles near the bar, see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvC8Iv0MlBk

Brasserie de l'Union

David, Graham and Mark - before we went inside
At the eastern corner of the broad Parvis St Gilles pedestrian area is Brasserie de l'Union, another bar with connections to Royale Union Saint-Gilloise football club.
The spacious brasserie is simply furnished and features colourful stained glass on the side windows and multiple black and white photos above the bar. Wearing a blue USG shirt, a top fan of the football club chatted with us. Tim took a break from Belgian beer and ordered a coffee here. This would be a hangover free trip!
For more photos including one of our new USG friend, see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvDE4D9sc4D

La Brocante

First visited in February 2015 before a Cantillon brewery tour, La Brocante has become a regular bar to visit due to it being within easy walking distance of Brussels Midi station for Eurostar services. The daily flea market in adjacent Place du Jeu de Balle may be of interest but note that it closes down in the afternoon.
There is a good beer range and the baguette 'sandwiches' are ideal for lunch. It may be resting on its laurels a bit as the prices are not that cheap for a cafe relying on market trade and the service always seems slow but the staff really cannot be faulted and it was a pleasure to watch the day's menu being freshly chalked up on the blackboard ending with red chalk emphasising Ni Frites, Ni Gaufres (waffles)! Another blackboard, behind the bar, was paintstakingly chalked with flags and text to show in French and English (but not Dutch) that the beer menu is available online using a QR code. This includes a range of Gueuze and Kriek. 
On his last day in Brussels, Tim enjoyed an Orval with his ham and cheese 'sandwich'.
Tim's main grip on this visit was that the only music played was by ABBA and after David's departure and Mark's arrival he persuaded Graham to make a first visit with him to nearby CHAFF where the music choice was more contemporary and the beer range included more Brussels brewed beers.
See also the companion blog post:Brussels 2023 - first visits for more details of CHAFF and other excellent establishments in Brussels.

05 April 2019

Mechelen meander - Sat 23 March 2019

Mechelen (Malines) lies between Brussels and Antwerp and is on the river Dijle which also flows through Leuven. The city looks unimpressive from the elevated railway line but as the home of Het Anker brewery it deserves a visit. A day trip to Mechelen would take up most of our second day in Belgium.
The lively Saturday market at Boulevard de l'Europe was a distraction as we walked to Brussels Midi station. However, dates on branches, figs, colourful fabrics, trailers of well displayed bakery goods and charcuterie did not tempt us to make any purchases.
We paid 5.80 euros each for a weekend return ticket and travelled on the 11.00 Antwerp train arriving in Mechelen at 11.26.
On the train, Simon planned some bars to visit based on a list from Sue and John Thirlaway who know many of them. It was a disappointment to find Cafe de Olifant, near the station was closed and we resolved to return there later before catching the train back to Brussels.
We walked towards the Grote Markt in the city centre. After crossing the ring road there was little vehicle traffic.
We also crossed the river Dijle and followed the Bruul shopping street until we reached the Grote Markt which was busy with shoppers and market stalls.
'T Ankercafe
As 'T Ankercafe on the south side of the square looked busy we crossed to the north side.

SAVA

SAVA
We went inside SAVA and as the ground floor was full we found a free table upstairs.
This was a high ceilinged space with pale wood tables and light from tall windows overlooking the square. SAVA is a cafe with Tapas but we only ordered beers here. My blond Het Anker Maneblusser (5.8% ABV) was named after the Belgian nickname for people from Mechelen which means 'extinguishers of the moon'.
We would later learn from Marc de Knijf on the Het Anker brewery tour that this nickname is based on the 1687 tale of a false fire alarm when people from Mechelen climbed the tower of St Rumbold's cathedral carrying buckets of water only to find that the mist, assumed to be smoke, had cleared revealing only the fiery red glow of the full moon.
During the 1km walk to Het Anker brewery we passed St Rumbold's cathedral and beyond it found the climbable figure of Opsinjoor. Later research shows that Mechelen folklore and tradition involves bouncing a wooden doll, representing a drunken wifebeater, into the air from a linen sheet and his name is derived from the Spanish word Señor.
See Het Anker brewery Mechelen post for details of our tour and tasting at the brewery situated in the historic beguinage district just inside the city's ring road.
After the tour, weighted down with some bottles of Het Anker beer purchased in the shop, we set off towards Ankertje aan de Dijle via the cobbled streets of the beguinage with its attractive traditional buildings.
Kraanbrug over river Dijle
Arriving at the river we crossed to the south bank and headed towards the old Lamot brewery building.
The attractive old sign has been retained on the repurposed brewery building.
From here we crossed back to the Dijle's north bank using a new footbridge (Van Beethovenbrug).

Ankertje aan de Dijle

Ankertje aan de Dijle is located just west of the footbridge, fronting onto cobbled Vismarkt and the river beyond. All the draught beers are from the Het Anker brewery. We arrived at 3.30pm.
We both ordered bottles of Het Anker Gouden Carolus Hopsinjoor (9% ABV, EBU 50, 3.80 euros). The name of this version of Gouden Carolus is a play on the Opsinjoor folklore. Hopsinjoor is unfiltered and hopped with five varieties making it relatively bitter.
The decor includes artwork relating to Mechelen and framed photos from the old Lamot brewery.

De Gouden Vis

A minute's walk east along Vismarkt into Nauwstraat brought us to De Gouden Vis (The Golden Fish).
The external framework for the decorative windows onto the pedestrianised Nauwstraat is painted royal blue.
Inside, attractive art nouveau style lamp fittings hang from the ceiling.
We sat outside at the back, by the river, looking towards the site of the old Lamot brewery, but went back inside for some warmth after a while. The beer menu included the only Trappist white ale in the world - Bierbrouwerij de Koningshoeven La Trappe Witte. The 5.5% ABV wheat beer (3 euros) has low bitterness (14 EBU) with floral, fruity and spicy notes.
Inside, an internal door towards the back of the main room leads towards a separate smoking room and there is a table and racks for newspapers and board games.
Leaving at 5.30pm, we recrossed the river and spotted Antverpia with its entrance at the north end of Korenmarkt.
Schepenhuis, Mechelen
Instead of entering we followed Guldenstraat north, back over the river (on Grootbrug) and then along IJzerenleen to arrive at the Schepenhuis which is now the city museum.
Grote Markt, Mechelen - panorama from south west looking east
Just beyond lay the western end of Grote Markt which looked completely different without all the market stalls.

Makadam

This time we chose a different bar on the northern side of the square - Makadam, slightly to the west of Sava.
The ground floor was busy but we found a table on the first floor.
The extensive beer menu included a page of 'Craft' beers.
My choice was VBDCK Kerel Grapefruit IPA (5% ABV, 4.5 euros).
Simon chose Keun Sterk Bruin (9% ABV, 4.6 euros).
Although the front part of Makadam has a modern style, the area at the back of the first floor includes whitewashed brickwork revealing the age of the building.
We left at 6.30pm and looked for a suitable place for a meal on the way back to the railway station. We settled on a Chinese meal at Ying Bin which was good value but took quite a long time to be served at a busy time.
We were disappointed to find that Cafe de Olifant was still closed so picked Maroon brasserie instead as the sophisticated setting for a final beer in Mechelen.

Brussels

We caught the 22.05 train to Brussels-Central, arriving 22.26. From here it was only 10 minutes walk to Moeder Lambic Fontainas via Manneken Pis. I was relieved to be able to reclaim the bag with beers and the glass I had purchased at Cafe Verschueren but subsequently left behind here on Friday night by mistake. When the bag was handed back I was politely informed that one bottle had been drunk by the staff as 'a tax' and at least this meant that there was not quite so much weight to add to my bulging backpack!

Booze 'n Blues

We arrived at nearby Booze 'n Blues, Rue des Riches Claires 20, before 11pm. All the tables were occupied in the small bar so we found places by the bar counter near the jukebox. Blues music was playing quite loudly.
Jambe-de-Bois, Booze 'n Blues
This is a good bar to drink some favourite Brasserie de la Senne draught beers and I enjoyed Zinnebir (33cl, 6% ABV, 3.5 euros) followed by Jambe-de-Bois (33cl, 8% ABV, 4 euros).
At midnight it was time for a bottle of  Brasserie de la Senne / Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project Schieve Saison (5.2% ABV, 5 euros) which might have tasted better if it had been served cooler. Some of the music was now blasting, in a rather distorted fashion, from the classic Rock Ola  jukebox.

Moeder Lambic Fontainas

By 1am we had moved back to Moeder Lambic Fontainas which was still busy.
My Brasserie de Jandrain-Jandrenouille IV Saison was superb.
By 1.50am nearly, tables had been cleared and nearly everyone had left and it was time to walk the 1km back to our hotel.

Postscript:
Although Mechelen appears unimpressive from a distance and may not have the cachet of Bruges or the big city advantages of Brussels, Antwerp and Ghent, a visit to the city can be recommended to any beer lover. The Grote Markt on a Saturday morning is full of life. The central streets are largely traffic free save for the occasional bus or cyclist. It is possible to follow a riverside walk along the Dijle and the cobbled streets and old buildings in the beguinage are delightful to wander around.