On my sixth visit to Antwerp (Thursday 29 June to Sunday 2 July 2023) and the first not coinciding with Beer Passion Weekend festival, there was time to revisit seven favourite bars in addition to those visited for the first time (Antwerp 2023 - first visits).
Cafe Kulminator
As it was near
Hostel Pulcinella, our group managed three visits to
Kulminator but I missed the third visit in order to meet up with Paul and Jennie in De Vagant on Saturday. Groups and tourists are not usually welcome at Kulminator and Dirk in his gatekeeper role must hear the words 'taste', 'cash' and 'euros' before considering admittance. Despite his age, the bright red frame of Dirk's spectacles made him look rather intimidating as he surveyed us on the pavement from his elevated position inside!
On our first visit, David fluffed his lines and said 'sample' instead of 'taste' but eventually the door was opened for us after assurance that we could pay for our drinks with cash (euros).
 |
| L to R: Paul R, Graham, Les, Simon, David, Tim & Mark. Photo: Jennie R |
Paul and Jennie needed to point to our group, sat near the window, in order to gain admission after our earlier arrival on the Friday!
Leen served the beers for our group including Gueuze for Graham using the traditional method.
Although the classical music and traditions of the legendary Kulminator may not appeal to all, the price list has not been updated for several years resulting in better value than ever!
Tim enjoyed a total of three beers on his two visits with the 75cl bottle of St Feuillien Saison shared. The third beer was draught Gouden Carolus Cuvee van de Keizer Whisky Infused 2022 brewed in Mechelen by Het Anker.
De Vagant
In 2022, Tim had visited an updated
De Vagant with a group to honour the late
John Reynor with beers and jenevers served by
Bart Daems, the new manager. On Saturday 1 July this year, Bart was wearing a
Heino t-shirt and posed with the autumn 2022
Ullage magazine opened at the page with a story and photos from that day including John at top left of page in photo below.
This was Paul and Jennie's first visit to Antwerp and it was nice to meet up with them again here while the others were at Kulminator for the third afternoon running.
Tim enjoyed a draught Cherry Chouffe on this visit.
De Ware Jacob
It was only a short walk down Reyndersstraat and Vlasmarkt to reach
De Ware Jacob.
The excellent draught range here includes (Tim's choice) Brasserie Dupont Avec les Bon Voeux (9.5% ABV), Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie Seef and St Barnardus Abt 12 (10% ABV). Although there was a table free outside we preferred to enjoy the surroundings of the compact room with its wood panelling, inlaid mirrors and traditional bar furniture.
Guy the owner was not around but Tim asked Dafne to pass on the autumn 2022 issue of
Ullage which includes a mention of his previous visit.
Het Souke
 |
| Photo: Mark G. L to R: Tim, Les, Graham, David, Paul, Jennie, Simon |
Tim was keen to revisit
Het Souke after a first visit in 2022 when he met owner Jacob Gouka and enjoyed the music at the cafe on the corner of pedestrianised Hoogstraat and narrow HH Geeststraat.
This was the first time the whole group came together on the Thursday with Les, the last to arrive c/o
FlixBus, now able to enjoy his first beer.
The five draught beers are Stella Artois, Bolleke, Seef, Val Dieu Cuvee and Tripel d'Anvers.
There are 24 bottles including Trappist beers, Minerva and Bootjes Biers from Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and Tripppel and Blackout from
Swiekes bv established in 2020 at Oud Turnhout, east of Antwerp.
Tim gave Jacob the autumn 2022
Ullage magazine which includes an article with his 2022 photos from Het Souk. James posed for a photo holding the relevant page open while resting his left arm in plaster on the shoulder of Maximilian - his 'best coworker yet'.
Paters Vaetje
We enjoyed simple meals like lasagne from the limited menu for the small kitchen next to the bar at
Paters Vaetje on the Saturday evening. This reliable beer bar is easy to find as it faces the north west corner of the cathedral near the ground level
Nello & Patrasche marble sculpture. Tim's beer selection was draught Brouwerij The Musketeers 'Joyride in a Shopping Cart' a 6.5% ABV honey ale from the brewery's
Bucket List series of limited edition beers (4.10 euros).
Oud Arsenaal
Tim and David's last beer in Antwerp on the Sunday would be at
Oud Arsenaal on the way to Antwerp Centraal station for the train to Brussels. We were both keen to revisit this brown cafe with its interior dating from the 1920s. Regula Ysewijn mentions in
Belgian Cafe Culture that it is one of the few cafes in Antwerp that is still run by the same family that started the business.
Every table inside was occupied when we arrived but we shared a table and then gained some elbow room as a lady next to us kindly moved to a vacant seat on the other side of her window table, to face her friend.
Tim was delighted with the draught hazy Seef bier which may become his beer of choice on future visits to Antwerp where it is widely available.
David noticed that the young man serving our drinks resembled the current owner and was able to confirm that he was indeed the son and so the tradition continues.
Oud Arsenaal is close to the busy weekend
market in Theaterplein so a weekday visit may be more suitable for anyone looking for a quiet spot during the day.
Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie
Revisiting
Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and a meeting with Johan Van Dyck deserves a separate blog post to do it justice. Watch this space!
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
