Antwerp 2023 - Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie revisit

In the early afternoon of Friday 30 June 2023, Tim and friends including Mark and Les (above) arrived at the impressive brewery, taproom and courtyard of Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie at Indiestraat 21 in Antwerp's docklands north of the city centre.

This was after first visits to Gaarkeuken 110 and the nearby Taverne t'Kerkschip, described in a separate post: Antwerp 2023 - first visits.

Selfie photo: Les M with L to R: Les, Mark, David, Tim, Simon & Graham

Mark was in his element on this visit to Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie. Having purchased a red Seef Bier cap for himself, he would treat us all to the delightful taste of the limited edition 10% ABV AnniverSeef JubileumBier in elegant glasses served from a 75cl bottle.

From our courtyard table we noticed that brewery owner Johan Van Dyck was being interviewed at the table on the other side of the entrance ramp and Tim approached him after the interview to present the latest issue of West Berkshire CAMRA Ullage magazine. With his typical enthusiastic and generous nature, Johan came over to our table for a chat. 

He mentioned that the Anniverseef is a one off beer made with a first fermentation using Seef yeast, a second fermentation still in the tank with added sugar and champagne yeast and then a third fermentation in the bottle with champagne yeast. 

Martin's Pale Ale

a previous version of Martin's Pale Ale 2018 

Johan talked about Martin's Pale Ale, a classic pale ale whose origins lie with an English family that moved to Antwerp at the beginning of the 1900s. However it was first brewed in England and later in different parts of Belgium with the recipe changing over the years. Now it has been brought 'home' to Antwerp with Martin's Pale Ale now brewed at Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie. The Anthony Martin website gives details of many beers from its breweries including the latest Martin's Pale Ale.

Johan enlisted help from award winning home brewer Keith Moore in Germany and beer author Ron Pattinson in Amsterdam two years ago before finalising the brewing recipe which includes UK sourced East Kent Goldings and Fuggles hops. Keith sent him several different bottles of typical English pale ales available in Germany. Ron sent Johan details of English pale ales that were exported to Belgium and the recipe for the pale ale that Whitbread once exported to Belgium using his extensive brewing history resources.

Johan said 'Our dream is to make the Antwerp beer scene vibrant and alive again'.

Radio Minerva Tripel

Johan also explained that Radio Minerva (Tripel) is named after 40 year old Radio Minerva a popular Antwerp based radio station which has older volunteer presenters and plays music from earlier eras. Radio Minerva helped with publicity when Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie was crowdfunding to build its brewery. When Radio Minerva looked for a way to celebrate it's anniversary, the Tripel was brewed to also help with funding the radio station. It's popularity led to it becoming a permanent beer and it has won gold awards including Frankfurt International Trophy 2023 and European Beer Challenge 2023.

Belgian Beer Brothers describe the history of Minerva Tripel before a tasting of the beer in a YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04M2e8yBP2E 

ABC Taproom and Brewery

After checking his phone to confirm the time of his next appointment, Johan invited our group to join him on an impromptu brewery tour in the time remaining.

Only a chain separates the brewery from the taproom.

Johan explained that the brewery capacity has increased since 2020 and is controlled by an automated system that can be accessed remotely.

Many thanks to Johan for the interesting tour of Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie. His enthusiasm and dedication to the Antwerp beer scene is admirable.

Keith Moore

Heiko Müller & Keith Moore  (photo: HM)

Johan had mentioned meeting our brewer friend Keith Moore, also mentioned above, a week earlier when he visited Antwerp to meet Richard and Andrew at the 22nd Beer Passion Weekend festival. 

As one of the original crowdfunders for Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie since first meeting Johan in 2016, Keith's name is on the founder's plaque inside the brewery.

Keith has won several hobby brewer contests in Germany including Mainz craft beer festival prize for home brewers. His 2016 winner was a Black IPA based on a Cascadian dark ale recipe. The 2018 summer beer style contest was won by his Entdeckung (Discovery), based on the beer once brewed by Fuller's. Keith won first place in the Sour Beers category for his Langener Gose in the competition for the 2020 Hobby Brew / HeimBrau Convention.

The photo below the heading from the March 2023 Hobby Brew / HeimBrau Convention in Romrod, near Marburg, shows Keith Moore with the silver award for his low alcohol Ruby Light Dark Mild (2.2% ABV) and Heiko Müller with the silver award for his 39 Days Saison.

Brussels 2023 - revisits

GIST

GIST, Poechenellekelder, In 't Spinnekopke, Booze 'n Blues, Brasserie Verschueren, Brasserie de la Union and La Brocante were revisited between Sunday 2 July and Wednesday 5 July 2023 after four days in Antwerp.

GIST

Located at Place de la Vieille Halle au Bles 30, up the Rue du Chene from Poechenellekelder, GIST has become a regular visit due to its closeness and the fact that cask ale is offered from two handpumps at the far end of the bar.

On the Monday afternoon, Tim met up with Mark, David, Les and Graham at a table by the front window and ordered Hoppy Blonde by Bobbi Brewery from Ittre, south of Brussels. With happy hour from 17h - 19h daily offering a one euro saving 'sur les pintes', Tim next ordered a 'pint' (50cl) of locally brewed Pale Ale by Drogenbos (7.20 euros) served by handpump. Music playing included tracks by Buffalo Springfield and Led Zeppelin.

It was nice to find Geoffrey behind the bar again and hand him a copy of the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine which included a mention of my previous evening visit to GIST. Geoffrey explained that the two handpumps function in different ways and when pouring it's only possible to keep the nozzle at the base of the glass with one of them.

See Tim's Threads post for more photos including glasses of the Bobbi and Drogenbos beers: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvAhJKOseXH

Poechenellekelder

Just follow the signs to Mannekin Pis to find Poechenellekelder on Rue du Chene.

We found a table upstairs from the entrance in a room that was less busy than the outside area.

The annual visit here always includes a meal consisting of a large dish of lasagne. The limited range of draught beers is complemented by a large list of Belgian beers. Having enjoyed Val Dieu Cuvee at Het Souke in Antwerp, Tim chose a 33cl bottle of Val Dieu Triple, served in a branded chalice glass.

See Tim's Threads post for more photos including Mannekin Pis and the Val Dieu Triple at Poechenellekelder: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvAmYIfMtvJ

In 't Spinnekopke

Retaining its symbol of a spider's web, In 't Spinnekopke is under new management since my previous visit with West Berkshire CAMRA friends in February 2015. Sven & Esther took over with Jonathan as co-partner and Thomas as chef. It now offers excellent value and we were lucky to secure a table by arriving fairly early on the Tuesday evening.

All the Belgian dishes on the menu were tempting and the beer menu was also impressive offering four draught beers and 22 bottles / cans including Trappist beers, and many from Brussels breweries including Brasserie de la Mule, Brasserie de la Senne, Vandekelder and Tipsy Tribe.

For more photos including menus and dishes see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvCUopmsK5o

Booze 'n Blues

Just a short walk away and our next stop is Tim's old favourite also dating back to the 2015 visit - Booze 'n Blues. Although the recently extended terrace was busy, three of our group found a table there while Tim sat at a table indoors, just the other side of an open window from them. 

This was also the closest table to the Rock-Ola jukebox and once Tim discovered it was on free play this early in the evening he would request a new selection, using the relevant chunky red button, just before each song ended.

As the Brasserie de la Senne branded terrace umbrellas suggest, the bar stocks a wide range of their beers with Zenne Pils, Brussels Calling IPA, Jambe-de-Bois Tripel, ZinneBir Blonde and Taras Boulba Session Blonde on draught as well as several spirits. Tim enjoyed unfiltered Zenne Pils on this visit.

For more photos including one of Tim's juke box selections (Timmy Thomas - Why Can't We Live Together), see his Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvCbZM7MD1U

Brasserie Verschueren

Tuesday 4 July 2023 was our last full day in Brussels and after a first visit to Au Daringman we took the Metro from Sainte Catherine to Parvis Saint Gilles. Brasserie Verschueren is only a short walk from there (providing you leave from the exit that leads to the main entrance next to Broebbeleir and not the entrance in Rue de Hotel des Monnaies).

The art deco interior dates from 1935. Also mentioned in the 'Our history' page of the Brasserie's website is that it was one of the bases of the Resistance during the Occupation. The board at the far end with moveable coloured plates for football teams had space for scores to be chalked up.for each match.

The limited beer menu includes draught Verschueren Saison (brewed by De Ranke) and Verschueren Tripel (brewed by Brasserie de la Senne) in bottles - enjoyed by Tim on this occasion. It's possible to take away a four pack of Tripels.

For more photos including the metro station and church of St Gilles near the bar, see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvC8Iv0MlBk

Brasserie de l'Union

David, Graham and Mark - before we went inside

At the eastern corner of the broad Parvis St Gilles pedestrian area is Brasserie de l'Union, another bar with connections to Royale Union Saint-Gilloise football club.

The spacious brasserie is simply furnished and features colourful stained glass on the side windows and multiple black and white photos above the bar. Wearing a blue USG shirt, a top fan of the football club chatted with us. Tim took a break from Belgian beer and ordered a coffee here. This would be a hangover free trip!

For more photos including one of our new USG friend, see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvDE4D9sc4D

La Brocante

First visited in February 2015 before a Cantillon brewery tour, La Brocante has become a regular bar to visit due to it being within easy walking distance of Brussels Midi station for Eurostar services. The daily flea market in adjacent Place du Jeu de Balle may be of interest but note that it closes down in the afternoon.

There is a good beer range and the baguette 'sandwiches' are ideal for lunch. It may be resting on its laurels a bit as the prices are not that cheap for a cafe relying on market trade and the service always seems slow but the staff really cannot be faulted and it was a pleasure to watch the day's menu being freshly chalked up on the blackboard ending with red chalk emphasising Ni Frites, Ni Gaufres (waffles)! Another blackboard, behind the bar, was paintstakingly chalked with flags and text to show in French and English (but not Dutch) that the beer menu is available online using a QR code. This includes a range of Gueuze and Kriek. 

On his last day in Brussels, Tim enjoyed an Orval with his ham and cheese 'sandwich'.

Tim's main grip on this visit was that the only music played was by ABBA and after David's departure and Mark's arrival he persuaded Graham to make a first visit with him to nearby CHAFF where the music choice was more contemporary and the beer range included more Brussels brewed beers.

See also the companion blog post:Brussels 2023 - first visits for more details of CHAFF and other excellent establishments in Brussels.

Antwerp 2023 - revisits

On my sixth visit to Antwerp (Thursday 29 June to Sunday 2 July 2023) and the first not coinciding with Beer Passion Weekend festival, there was time to revisit seven favourite bars in addition to those visited for the first time (Antwerp 2023 - first visits).

Cafe Kulminator

As it was near Hostel Pulcinella, our group managed three visits to Kulminator but I missed the third visit in order to meet up with Paul and Jennie in De Vagant on Saturday. Groups and tourists are not usually welcome at Kulminator and Dirk in his gatekeeper role must hear the words 'taste', 'cash' and 'euros' before considering admittance. Despite his age, the bright red frame of Dirk's spectacles made him look rather intimidating as he surveyed us on the pavement from his elevated position inside!

On our first visit, David fluffed his lines and said 'sample' instead of 'taste' but eventually the door was opened for us after assurance that we could pay for our drinks with cash (euros).

L to R: Paul R, Graham, Les, Simon, David, Tim & Mark. Photo: Jennie R

Paul and Jennie needed to point to our group, sat near the window, in order to gain admission after our earlier arrival on the Friday!

Leen served the beers for our group including Gueuze for Graham using the traditional method.

Although the classical music and traditions of the legendary Kulminator may not appeal to all, the price list has not been updated for several years resulting in better value than ever!

Tim enjoyed a total of three beers on his two visits with the 75cl bottle of St Feuillien Saison shared. The third beer was draught Gouden Carolus Cuvee van de Keizer Whisky Infused 2022 brewed in Mechelen by Het Anker.

De Vagant

In 2022, Tim had visited an updated De Vagant with a group to honour the late John Reynor with beers and jenevers served by Bart Daems, the new manager. On Saturday 1 July this year, Bart was wearing a Heino t-shirt and posed with the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine opened at the page with a story and photos from that day including John at top left of page in photo below.

This was Paul and Jennie's first visit to Antwerp and it was nice to meet up with them again here while the others were at Kulminator for the third afternoon running.

Tim enjoyed a draught Cherry Chouffe on this visit.

De Ware Jacob

It was only a short walk down Reyndersstraat and Vlasmarkt to reach De Ware Jacob.

The excellent draught range here includes (Tim's choice) Brasserie Dupont Avec les Bon Voeux (9.5% ABV), Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie Seef and St Barnardus Abt 12 (10% ABV). Although there was a table free outside we preferred to enjoy the surroundings of the compact room with its wood panelling, inlaid mirrors and traditional bar furniture.

Guy the owner was not around but Tim asked Dafne to pass on the autumn 2022 issue of Ullage which includes a mention of his previous visit.

Het Souke

Photo: Mark G. L to R: Tim, Les, Graham, David, Paul, Jennie, Simon

Tim was keen to revisit Het Souke after a first visit in 2022 when he met owner Jacob Gouka and enjoyed the music at the cafe on the corner of pedestrianised Hoogstraat and narrow HH Geeststraat.

This was the first time the whole group came together on the Thursday with Les, the last to arrive c/o FlixBus, now able to enjoy his first beer.

The five draught beers are Stella Artois, Bolleke, Seef, Val Dieu Cuvee and Tripel d'Anvers. 

There are 24 bottles including Trappist beers, Minerva and Bootjes Biers from Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and Tripppel and Blackout from Swiekes bv established in 2020 at Oud Turnhout, east of Antwerp.

Tim gave Jacob the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine which includes an article with his 2022 photos from Het Souk. James posed for a photo holding the relevant page open while resting his left arm in plaster on the shoulder of Maximilian - his 'best coworker yet'.

Paters Vaetje

We enjoyed simple meals like lasagne from the limited menu for the small kitchen next to the bar at Paters Vaetje on the Saturday evening. This reliable beer bar is easy to find as it faces the north west corner of the cathedral near the ground level Nello & Patrasche marble sculpture. Tim's beer selection was draught Brouwerij The Musketeers 'Joyride in a Shopping Cart' a 6.5% ABV honey ale from the brewery's Bucket List series of limited edition beers (4.10 euros). 

Oud Arsenaal

Tim and David's last beer in Antwerp on the Sunday would be at Oud Arsenaal on the way to Antwerp Centraal station for the train to Brussels. We were both keen to revisit this brown cafe with its interior dating from the 1920s. Regula Ysewijn mentions in Belgian Cafe Culture that it is one of the few cafes in Antwerp that is still run by the same family that started the business.

Every table inside was occupied when we arrived but we shared a table and then gained some elbow room as a lady next to us kindly moved to a vacant seat on the other side of her window table, to face her friend.

Tim was delighted with the draught hazy Seef bier which may become his beer of choice on future visits to Antwerp where it is widely available.

David noticed that the young man serving our drinks resembled the current owner and was able to confirm that he was indeed the son and so the tradition continues.

Oud Arsenaal is close to the busy weekend market in Theaterplein so a weekday visit may be more suitable for anyone looking for a quiet spot during the day. 

Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie

Revisiting Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and a meeting with Johan Van Dyck deserves a separate blog post to do it justice. Watch this space!