Six visit Antwerp in April 2026

 

Antwerp Cafe City route plan at Cabardouche Taproom

Three sunny days in Antwerp from Thursday 23 April and six friends visited 16 beer cafes / bars / taprooms after travelling from West Berkshire by train via London and Brussels.

Tim devised itineraries for three days before a  move to Ghent on Sunday. This was a first visit to Antwerp for some so the idea was to include a variety of establishments to include traditional 'brown' beer cafes, specialist beer bars and brewery taprooms. 

Havenhuis - Photo: Rich

Apart from the busy area around Groenplaats and the cathedral there were visits to Havenhuis and MAS in the docks area on Friday and the 'improved' environments around KMSKA and Zuidpark in the Zuid / South district on Saturday.

Tim was able to add Cabardouche Taproom, Cafe Beveren and Quinten Matsijs (above) to his Antwerp tally and this post will only feature these three establishments in any detail.

Some of Tim's favourite Antwerp beer cafes were revisited including De Ware Jacob (bottom left photo with Jeff, Mike, Pat, Tommy and Rich), De Vagant (bottom centre photo with Bart behind the bar), Jazz Cafe de Muze and Paters Vaetje.

 

Unfortunately, the timing of our visit coincided with a temporary closure of Oud Arsenaal so it was only possible to get a photo of the historic brown cafe's exterior. With Tim's plan for the first pub of the trip stymied, we headed instead to De Kroon van Hopland a corner brown cafe that is another of his favourites.

L to R: Tommy, Mike, Tim, Rich & Pat

De Kroon appears to be under recent new ownership but the original furniture and decor remains and the barman was happy to take our photo holding up the delayed first beer of the trip, De Koninck Bolleke, brewed in the city. (Jeff had travelled on a later train and arrived at De Kroon, for his first Bolleke, after the photo above was taken.)

Cabardouche Taproom

On Saturday morning, with Rich on his way back from Breda after Waterakkers Parkrun (no local Belgian park run) and Tommy heading to Rotterdam for a Feyenoord v Groningen football match, only four of the group reached Cabardouche taproom initially.

Situated at Engelselei 254 in the multicultural Borgerhout district, we found a table inside the Taproom underneath a railway arch. There is a mix of seating options with a raised level on the inner side and big windows facing the street. It was nice to see plenty of (real) greenery and hear some funky music playing.

Flat white coffee

We were impressed by the industrious lone staff member who served us excellent (Caffenation) coffees and later beers while also attending to customers enjoying the sunshine outside.

A blackboard lists the current draught beers. The first beer we enjoyed here was Cabardouche Blonde Stoot (left, 5% ABV) with a minimum 33cl serving for €4.50. Tim's second beer was the brewery's Woeste Angela (right, 5% ABV), pleasantly sweet and costing €5 for 25cl. 

As with the Speciale Belge taproom in Antwerp first visited in March 2026, Cabardouche taproom is also an independent Antwerp brewery taproom that Tim now recommends and will surely return to on future trips. 

Cafe Beveren

At Vlasmarkt 2, Cafe Beveren enjoys a corner setting with views towards the river Scheldt.

On Saturday afternoon, after lunch of Croque Monsieur etc at Entrepot du Congo and a walk across Zuidpark to reach Scheldekaai Zuid 'linear park' by the river Scheldt, we were able to find a table inside Cafe Beveren next to the impressive 1937 Decap Jazz Organ. The decor is retro with photos and cartoons of Elvis Presley and others on the walls.

The jukebox was playing except when money was placed in the slot for the Jazz Organ to play a single tune. However, the fun was only just beginning as a hen party group arrived, recognisable by their white rimmed sunglasses, and some got up to dance on the furniture to the tune of 'You're the one that I want'.

Meanwhile our group had beers to drink from the limited beer list that includes draught Corsendonk Kriek Belgique (3% ABV). Cafe Beveren is usually only open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. This is a popular bar with locals and you may find it too busy or noisy at times so be prepared to revisit at a quieter time for the special experience of hearing and seeing the Jazz Organ playing (bring one euro coins for the slot).

Quinten Matsijs

At Moriaanstraat 17,  Quentin Matsijs, a traditional family-run restaurant bar, was busy on Saturday but a reservation was made for 8pm in person and we spent the intervening time at nearby Cafe de Kat.

Our group was given a table on the left of the entrance and well spaced from other customers. Three opted for Stoofvlees (Flemish beef stew) cooled with Trappist beer and served with chips or potato croquettes.

The draught beer range includes De Koninck Bolleke, Maredsous Tripel, La Chouffe and Cherry Chouffe (above). Bottled beers (16) include Duvel, Gouden Carolus and Cornet in addition to Abbey beers (2) Corsendonk and Trappist beers (5) Westmalle, Orval and Chimay. Originally an inn, the building dates back to 1565 and has colourful stained glass windows.

The decor, furniture, atmospheric lighting and personal service make a reservation worthwhile to ensure a beer and a meal in historic surroundings. However, a reservation may not be necessary at quieter times.

Antwerp 2023 - revisits

On my sixth visit to Antwerp (Thursday 29 June to Sunday 2 July 2023) and the first not coinciding with Beer Passion Weekend festival, there was time to revisit seven favourite bars in addition to those visited for the first time (Antwerp 2023 - first visits).

Cafe Kulminator

As it was near Hostel Pulcinella, our group managed three visits to Kulminator but I missed the third visit in order to meet up with Paul and Jennie in De Vagant on Saturday. Groups and tourists are not usually welcome at Kulminator and Dirk in his gatekeeper role must hear the words 'taste', 'cash' and 'euros' before considering admittance. Despite his age, the bright red frame of Dirk's spectacles made him look rather intimidating as he surveyed us on the pavement from his elevated position inside!

On our first visit, David fluffed his lines and said 'sample' instead of 'taste' but eventually the door was opened for us after assurance that we could pay for our drinks with cash (euros).

L to R: Paul R, Graham, Les, Simon, David, Tim & Mark. Photo: Jennie R

Paul and Jennie needed to point to our group, sat near the window, in order to gain admission after our earlier arrival on the Friday!

Leen served the beers for our group including Gueuze for Graham using the traditional method.

Although the classical music and traditions of the legendary Kulminator may not appeal to all, the price list has not been updated for several years resulting in better value than ever!

Tim enjoyed a total of three beers on his two visits with the 75cl bottle of St Feuillien Saison shared. The third beer was draught Gouden Carolus Cuvee van de Keizer Whisky Infused 2022 brewed in Mechelen by Het Anker.

De Vagant

In 2022, Tim had visited an updated De Vagant with a group to honour the late John Reynor with beers and jenevers served by Bart Daems, the new manager. On Saturday 1 July this year, Bart was wearing a Heino t-shirt and posed with the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine opened at the page with a story and photos from that day including John at top left of page in photo below.

This was Paul and Jennie's first visit to Antwerp and it was nice to meet up with them again here while the others were at Kulminator for the third afternoon running.

Tim enjoyed a draught Cherry Chouffe on this visit.

De Ware Jacob

It was only a short walk down Reyndersstraat and Vlasmarkt to reach De Ware Jacob.

The excellent draught range here includes (Tim's choice) Brasserie Dupont Avec les Bon Voeux (9.5% ABV), Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie Seef and St Barnardus Abt 12 (10% ABV). Although there was a table free outside we preferred to enjoy the surroundings of the compact room with its wood panelling, inlaid mirrors and traditional bar furniture.

Guy the owner was not around but Tim asked Dafne to pass on the autumn 2022 issue of Ullage which includes a mention of his previous visit.

Het Souke

Photo: Mark G. L to R: Tim, Les, Graham, David, Paul, Jennie, Simon

Tim was keen to revisit Het Souke after a first visit in 2022 when he met owner Jacob Gouka and enjoyed the music at the cafe on the corner of pedestrianised Hoogstraat and narrow HH Geeststraat.

This was the first time the whole group came together on the Thursday with Les, the last to arrive c/o FlixBus, now able to enjoy his first beer.

The five draught beers are Stella Artois, Bolleke, Seef, Val Dieu Cuvee and Tripel d'Anvers. 

There are 24 bottles including Trappist beers, Minerva and Bootjes Biers from Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and Tripppel and Blackout from Swiekes bv established in 2020 at Oud Turnhout, east of Antwerp.

Tim gave Jacob the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine which includes an article with his 2022 photos from Het Souk. James posed for a photo holding the relevant page open while resting his left arm in plaster on the shoulder of Maximilian - his 'best coworker yet'.

Paters Vaetje

We enjoyed simple meals like lasagne from the limited menu for the small kitchen next to the bar at Paters Vaetje on the Saturday evening. This reliable beer bar is easy to find as it faces the north west corner of the cathedral near the ground level Nello & Patrasche marble sculpture. Tim's beer selection was draught Brouwerij The Musketeers 'Joyride in a Shopping Cart' a 6.5% ABV honey ale from the brewery's Bucket List series of limited edition beers (4.10 euros). 

Oud Arsenaal

Tim and David's last beer in Antwerp on the Sunday would be at Oud Arsenaal on the way to Antwerp Centraal station for the train to Brussels. We were both keen to revisit this brown cafe with its interior dating from the 1920s. Regula Ysewijn mentions in Belgian Cafe Culture that it is one of the few cafes in Antwerp that is still run by the same family that started the business.

Every table inside was occupied when we arrived but we shared a table and then gained some elbow room as a lady next to us kindly moved to a vacant seat on the other side of her window table, to face her friend.

Tim was delighted with the draught hazy Seef bier which may become his beer of choice on future visits to Antwerp where it is widely available.

David noticed that the young man serving our drinks resembled the current owner and was able to confirm that he was indeed the son and so the tradition continues.

Oud Arsenaal is close to the busy weekend market in Theaterplein so a weekday visit may be more suitable for anyone looking for a quiet spot during the day. 

Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie

Revisiting Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and a meeting with Johan Van Dyck deserves a separate blog post to do it justice. Watch this space!

Antwerp - Thursday 21/6/2018

The Parcel Yard, the Fuller's pub inside Kings Cross station, was the rendezvous for our group before catching a lunchtime train from St Pancras International to Brussels Midi.

Arriving at Brussels later in the day than for previous years we decided to catch the first train to Antwerp.
Andrew, Richard and John got off at Antwerpen-Berchem station, convenient for their hotel (Tryp by Wyndham Antwerp) while Simon and I continued to Antwerpen Centraal where we checked into our rooms at the nearby Ibis Budget hotel.

Our first stop,  on the way to Antwerp's historic centre, was at Cafe Oud Arsenaal, Maria Pijpelincxstraat 4, 'authentic pub since 1929'.

Simon ordered a draught Rodenbach and my choice was a draught Musketeers Troubadour Blond costing 2.60 / 2.90 euros for 33cl respectively.

While enjoying our beers it was interesting to look around this much appreciated bar with the bar counter in one corner and only a few tables to choose from. Brewery signs and old photos adorn the walls and ceiling!

The bar front has contrasting wood layers in a geometric pattern. A brass rail runs around the base of the bar and a selection of bottled beers are displayed on the counter top.

A cat was resting in a raised basket at the back of the pub, underneath the front wheel of a dangling old bicycle. A tall blackboard lists some special bottled beers in 75cl and 37.5cl sizes.

Ian McCallum at Oud Arsenaal

Ian McCallum, a recent Twitter acquantaince, joined us, having flown from Edinburgh to Charleroi and on by train to Antwerp via Brussels today. Ian was looking forward to his first visit to BierPassie Weekend festival tomorrow when his friend from Rotterdam would join him. 

With a name 'Run through a Field of Wheat', echoing Theresa May's self-confessed past misdemeanours, this bottled beer from The Musketeers Brewery bucketlist series (No. 1), caught my attention and proved to be one of my favourites on this visit to Belgium.
We got a text message from the main group that they would meet us in Cafe Kulminator so we said goodbye to Ian and the cafe cat!

We imagined meeting up with Ian again at the festival but it turned out that our times there never coincided with his - perhaps we'll meet again next year! However, it was nice to be able to keep up with Ian's posts and photos on Twitter and find out that he would visit De Koninck Brewery and enjoy 'awesome beers' at Cafe Kulminator.

The venerable Cafe Kulminator, Vleminckveld 32, is only half a mile west of Oud Arsenaal.

We found our group around a round table in the raised rear level of the cafe with a view of the conservatory at the back.

From the list of draught beers (van 't vat) chalked on the Erdinger board, I chose Malheur 6° (4 euros). 

There was time for a (bottle) of 9% ABV Musketeers Troubadour Magma Maris Otter before we left in search of a meal closer to the historic centre.

Thanks to Keith who led us to WoW Wok, Oude Koornmarkt 4, less than a 100 metres from the eastern end of the Cathedral of Our Lady, the highest Gothic building in the Low Countries. 
The simple ordering process involves choosing rice or noodles, chicken or pork and type of sauce. The chef got straight to work and soon our bowls of food were ready. 

We caught the No. 11 tram, a 1.60 euro fare when validating a Lijn Card in a yellow machine mounted at each entrance. We were heading to Dageraadplaats - known by our group as 'Argument Square' from previous visits, notably including one on the day that the EU referendum results were announced in 2016.

On arrival at Dageraadplaats stop we crosed the square to reach Cafe ZeeZicht,
Dageraadplaats 7-8. 

We sat outside for our first beer and I enjoyed a draught Chimay Triple, an authentic Trappist beer
produced by Scourmont Abbey's 'Bières de Chimay' brewery. 

Also known as Chimay White (its bottles have white caps) this is listed for 3.50 euros in the beer menu.

With the temperature falling we moved to some seating on a raised level before ordering our next beer. 

A chalked up seasonal offer above the bar for a bottle of De Ranke Saison de Dottignies caught my eye. When in Belgium I enjoy trying Saisons / Farmhouse Ales although not keen on Lambic or Geueze which are more sour. 

Keith Morore - Homebrewer - Cafe ZeeZicht

It was now well after midnight and although we had been chatting there were no major arguments on this occasion and we made a major decision concerning the next day - Friday's lunchtime rendezvous would be at Café De Smoutpot, Zwijndrecht, on the western side of the river Scheldt. 
Eventually Simon and I would say goodnight to Keith, John, Richard and Andrew before walking back to our hotel, less than a mile away.