Brussels - revisits - June 2024

With two nights in Brussels, after three nights in Antwerp for Bierpassie Weekend (21-23 June), there was a chance to revisit some favourite beer bars with Simon, Richard and Andrew and solo on Monday evening after their return to London.

At the end of this post, the chart above showing posts about previous visits to Brussels bars, provides blog post weblinks for more photos and descriptions of all the bars revisited.

Only a few steps from the iconic Mannekin Pis water feature lies the pub we inevitably visit on the Sunday as it is closed on Mondays.

Poechenellekelder

The tables in the courtyard of Poechenellekelder were all occupied on a warm Sunday afternoon but we secured a table immediately inside, near windows which overloooked it.

Our table was also near two other windows, one open, facing buildings in Rue du Chene.

The ceiling above had the familiar combination of puppets and suspended bric-a-brac.

The beers Tim enjoyed here for the first time were draught Blanche Framboise by Brasserie de Bertinchamps (fruity but not sweet) and Pater Lieven Triple by Brouwerij Van Den Bossche from the bottle 'spicy-bitter with fruity character'. There were complimentary salty nibbles that were welcome as Tim wasn't ready for a meal yet, unlike Simon who had his customary lasagne dish before getting the Eurostar train back to London.

There's some street art on the Rue du Chene on the route for our group of three to the next destination.

GIST

We arrived at GIST soon after 7pm, just too late for 'Happy Hour' offers which start at 5pm.

Beers are priced for 25cl and 50cl measures and there's always an interesting selection chalked up above the bar.

The 25cl glasses of draught beer that Tim enjoyed here for the first time (photographed with the handpumps in the background) were Fee Steve (Blonde) by Brasserie Valduc-Thor (4 euros) and La Super Sanglier (Blonde) by Brasserie Minne (4.50 euros). These small breweries are both based between Brussels and Namur to the south and their beers are unlikely to be seen at Antwerp bars in Flanders, north of Brussels.

Apart from the handpumps, interesting features in GIST include lamp shades made from a variety of percussion cymbals and the ceiling mouldings.

An interesting selection of music was played on the sound system during our visit. The SoundHound music App came in useful for identifying some of the music. 

Simplenote stored the results for use in future blog posts etc!

Place Dinant

Just as GIST is a short distance from Poechenellekelder so also our next destination is a short distance from GIST and just around the corner from Place Dinant.

La Fleur en Papier Doree / Het Goudblommeke in Papier

After visiting on two consecutive days in 2023, Tim was determined to revisit La Fleur en Papier Doree also known by its Dutch name Het Goudblommeke in Papier.

Andrew and Richard were easily convinced to head there and immediately impressed by its charm on entering.

The small bar is decorated with items that have hung there since 1944 by Geert (Gerard) van Bruaene who knew all the artists of the day. A small blackboard on the counter reveals that the beer of the month is Taras Boulba from Brasserie de la Senne (4.20 euros).

A laminated menu card on the bar lists the regular beers available. Beers can be served with ginger extract for a 40 cents supplement. Draught beers are priced for 25cl or 40cl servings.

Tim chose his favourite here - a large glass of draught Saison Verschueren (5 euros).

Our table was in the front room with an unusual 'stove', sprouting brass knobs, between us and the windows with stained glass sections.

In keeping with the cafe bar's floral name there was a charming painting of flowers on a wall.

Before leaving, Tim promised to return on Monday but would instead visited the sister establishment - Brasserie Verschueren. His promise will surely be kept eventually as La Fleur has become a firm favourite in Brussels.

A la Mort Subite

On a warm Monday afternoon, after visiting Woodpecker kiosk, Au Bon Vieux Temps and Le Corbeau with Andrew and Richard, our last beer together would be at the renowned A la Mort Subite, Rue Montagne aux Herbes Potageres 7.

The brasserie has high ceilings, rows of identical tables, bench seating against the long wall and ornate walls with many mirrors to make the space look even bigger. It was very quiet and so there was no chance to observe the practised technique of the waiters which usually provides some additional interest.

Draught Mort Subite Peche (6.50 euros) was Tim's refreshing beer of choice.

Tim, Richard and Andrew

All good things must come to an end but there was still time for a photo outside A la Mort Subite before Andrew and Richard headed for their Eurostar train back to London.

Brasserie Verschueren

A few hours later, in the evening of that warm Monday, the cafe tables outside Brasserie Verschueren, Saint Gilles, were busy while nearly all the tables inside were free.

It was a pleasure to return here, join the short queue at the bar, order a large Saison Verschueren / Verschu and drink it at a table surrounded by the minimalist art deco style surroundings of the cafe bar with all the windows open.

A 33cl bottle of Verschueren Tripel was the second beer Tim obtained from the bar.

With Twitter / X on his phone for company and some tunes playing on the sound system that suited his taste, the SoundHound music App and Simplenote again came in useful.

An obligatory photo of the historic football leagues indicator at the far end of the cafe bar was another memento of this relaxing evening.

Brasserie de l'Union

 

At the opposite end of Parvis de Saint-Gilles from the church, Brasserie de l'Union enjoys a prominent corner site with windows on two sides. 

After a first visit to L'Ermitage Sant-Gilles, Tim sat inside Brasserie de l'Union for a beer and a meal before continuing to Brasserie Verschueren. The Plats du Jour listed on a blackboard were tempting and keenly priced but an order of a small spaghetti bolognese from the standard menu was delivered as a small vegetable lasagne. Perhaps an attempt to order in French would have achieved the intended result? However, this substitution was accepted without question and enjoyed.

Most beers are keenly priced at 4 euros (cash, no bank cards) and Brasserie Lupulus Organicus triple, brewed near the Luxembourg border, was refreshing. Music played here included Police & Thieves - Junior Murvin.

Weblinks for blog posts about previous visits to these bars

Name                  Blog link                                                            No of photos

A la Mort Subite        https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2018/07/brussels-sunday-2462018.html                          3

Brasserie de l’Union https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/03/brussels-south-monday-25-march-2019.html     3

Brasserie de l’Union https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/04/brussels-friday-22-march-2019.html                  1

Brasserie de l’Union https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/07/brussels-marolles-saint-gilles-monday-1.html     2

Brasserie de l’Union https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2023/07/brussels-2023-revisits.html                                  2

Brasserie Verschueren https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/04/brasserie-verschueren-saint-gilles.html             6

Brasserie Verschueren https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/04/brussels-friday-22-march-2019.html                  2

Brasserie Verschueren https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/07/brussels-marolles-saint-gilles-monday-1.html    1

Brasserie Verschueren https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2023/07/brussels-2023-revisits.html                               3

GIST                      https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/07/brussels-feat-gist-sunday-30-june-2019.html           7

GIST                      https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2022/07/Brussels-beer-2022.html                                           2

GIST                      https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2023/07/brussels-2023-revisits.html                                       2

La Fleur en Papier Dore https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2023/07/brussels-2023-first-visits.html                      2

Poechenellekelder https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2016/04/brussels-beer-bars-cafes.html                                  6

Poechenellekelder https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2017/07/belgian-beer-trip-2017-day-5.html                          6

Poechenellekelder https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2018/07/brussels-sunday-2462018.html                              3

Poechenellekelder https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/04/brussels-friday-22-march-2019.html                      4

Poechenellekelder https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/07/brussels-feat-gist-sunday-30-june-2019.html         5

Poechenellekelder https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2022/07/Brussels-beer-2022.html                                          4

Poechenellekelder https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2023/07/brussels-2023-revisits.html                                      2

Brussels 2023 - revisits

GIST

GIST, Poechenellekelder, In 't Spinnekopke, Booze 'n Blues, Brasserie Verschueren, Brasserie de la Union and La Brocante were revisited between Sunday 2 July and Wednesday 5 July 2023 after four days in Antwerp.

GIST

Located at Place de la Vieille Halle au Bles 30, up the Rue du Chene from Poechenellekelder, GIST has become a regular visit due to its closeness and the fact that cask ale is offered from two handpumps at the far end of the bar.

On the Monday afternoon, Tim met up with Mark, David, Les and Graham at a table by the front window and ordered Hoppy Blonde by Bobbi Brewery from Ittre, south of Brussels. With happy hour from 17h - 19h daily offering a one euro saving 'sur les pintes', Tim next ordered a 'pint' (50cl) of locally brewed Pale Ale by Drogenbos (7.20 euros) served by handpump. Music playing included tracks by Buffalo Springfield and Led Zeppelin.

It was nice to find Geoffrey behind the bar again and hand him a copy of the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine which included a mention of my previous evening visit to GIST. Geoffrey explained that the two handpumps function in different ways and when pouring it's only possible to keep the nozzle at the base of the glass with one of them.

See Tim's Threads post for more photos including glasses of the Bobbi and Drogenbos beers: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvAhJKOseXH

Poechenellekelder

Just follow the signs to Mannekin Pis to find Poechenellekelder on Rue du Chene.

We found a table upstairs from the entrance in a room that was less busy than the outside area.

The annual visit here always includes a meal consisting of a large dish of lasagne. The limited range of draught beers is complemented by a large list of Belgian beers. Having enjoyed Val Dieu Cuvee at Het Souke in Antwerp, Tim chose a 33cl bottle of Val Dieu Triple, served in a branded chalice glass.

See Tim's Threads post for more photos including Mannekin Pis and the Val Dieu Triple at Poechenellekelder: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvAmYIfMtvJ

In 't Spinnekopke

Retaining its symbol of a spider's web, In 't Spinnekopke is under new management since my previous visit with West Berkshire CAMRA friends in February 2015. Sven & Esther took over with Jonathan as co-partner and Thomas as chef. It now offers excellent value and we were lucky to secure a table by arriving fairly early on the Tuesday evening.

All the Belgian dishes on the menu were tempting and the beer menu was also impressive offering four draught beers and 22 bottles / cans including Trappist beers, and many from Brussels breweries including Brasserie de la Mule, Brasserie de la Senne, Vandekelder and Tipsy Tribe.

For more photos including menus and dishes see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvCUopmsK5o

Booze 'n Blues

Just a short walk away and our next stop is Tim's old favourite also dating back to the 2015 visit - Booze 'n Blues. Although the recently extended terrace was busy, three of our group found a table there while Tim sat at a table indoors, just the other side of an open window from them. 

This was also the closest table to the Rock-Ola jukebox and once Tim discovered it was on free play this early in the evening he would request a new selection, using the relevant chunky red button, just before each song ended.

As the Brasserie de la Senne branded terrace umbrellas suggest, the bar stocks a wide range of their beers with Zenne Pils, Brussels Calling IPA, Jambe-de-Bois Tripel, ZinneBir Blonde and Taras Boulba Session Blonde on draught as well as several spirits. Tim enjoyed unfiltered Zenne Pils on this visit.

For more photos including one of Tim's juke box selections (Timmy Thomas - Why Can't We Live Together), see his Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvCbZM7MD1U

Brasserie Verschueren

Tuesday 4 July 2023 was our last full day in Brussels and after a first visit to Au Daringman we took the Metro from Sainte Catherine to Parvis Saint Gilles. Brasserie Verschueren is only a short walk from there (providing you leave from the exit that leads to the main entrance next to Broebbeleir and not the entrance in Rue de Hotel des Monnaies).

The art deco interior dates from 1935. Also mentioned in the 'Our history' page of the Brasserie's website is that it was one of the bases of the Resistance during the Occupation. The board at the far end with moveable coloured plates for football teams had space for scores to be chalked up.for each match.

The limited beer menu includes draught Verschueren Saison (brewed by De Ranke) and Verschueren Tripel (brewed by Brasserie de la Senne) in bottles - enjoyed by Tim on this occasion. It's possible to take away a four pack of Tripels.

For more photos including the metro station and church of St Gilles near the bar, see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvC8Iv0MlBk

Brasserie de l'Union

David, Graham and Mark - before we went inside

At the eastern corner of the broad Parvis St Gilles pedestrian area is Brasserie de l'Union, another bar with connections to Royale Union Saint-Gilloise football club.

The spacious brasserie is simply furnished and features colourful stained glass on the side windows and multiple black and white photos above the bar. Wearing a blue USG shirt, a top fan of the football club chatted with us. Tim took a break from Belgian beer and ordered a coffee here. This would be a hangover free trip!

For more photos including one of our new USG friend, see Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CvDE4D9sc4D

La Brocante

First visited in February 2015 before a Cantillon brewery tour, La Brocante has become a regular bar to visit due to it being within easy walking distance of Brussels Midi station for Eurostar services. The daily flea market in adjacent Place du Jeu de Balle may be of interest but note that it closes down in the afternoon.

There is a good beer range and the baguette 'sandwiches' are ideal for lunch. It may be resting on its laurels a bit as the prices are not that cheap for a cafe relying on market trade and the service always seems slow but the staff really cannot be faulted and it was a pleasure to watch the day's menu being freshly chalked up on the blackboard ending with red chalk emphasising Ni Frites, Ni Gaufres (waffles)! Another blackboard, behind the bar, was paintstakingly chalked with flags and text to show in French and English (but not Dutch) that the beer menu is available online using a QR code. This includes a range of Gueuze and Kriek. 

On his last day in Brussels, Tim enjoyed an Orval with his ham and cheese 'sandwich'.

Tim's main grip on this visit was that the only music played was by ABBA and after David's departure and Mark's arrival he persuaded Graham to make a first visit with him to nearby CHAFF where the music choice was more contemporary and the beer range included more Brussels brewed beers.

See also the companion blog post:Brussels 2023 - first visits for more details of CHAFF and other excellent establishments in Brussels.