13 May 2026

Six visit Ghent in April 2026

View of Bierhuis / Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant from Vleeshuisbrug
On Sunday 26 April, six friends from West Berkshire arrived at Gent-Dampoort station on a direct train from Antwerpen-Centraal after a three day trip, described in a Six visit Antwerp post.

After checking in at our nearby hotel, we walked down Dampoortstraat and Steendam to become the first customers of the day at Gentse Gruut Brouwerij Taproom.

Gentse Gruut Brouwerij Taproom

Inside, there have been some changes to the layout at Gentse Gruut Brouwerij Taproom since Tim's previous visit in June 2017.
The bar is now on the opposite wall and the large painting of many people has been moved from the Steendam end to above the bar. The brewery uses gruit, a mixture of herbs, as an alternative to hops.
L to R: Jeff, Mike, Rich, Pat & Tommy
After some walking on a sunny day, the group's consensus was that Gruut Wit and Gruut Blond were pleasantly refreshing. 

Le Bal Infernal

Le Bal Infernal - Used Book Cafe, Kammerstraat 6
Leaving Gruut, we continued along Steendam to reach the Sunday market stalls by St James' church that had started packing up.

We were too early to visit Trollekelder so enjoyed our first beer at Le Bal Infernal nearby.
There are two levels with a ceiling high wall of used books available for exchange near the entrance. On a slightly higher level further inside there's more seating and a small bar for ordering coffee, beer and snacks. Four draught beers and 15 bottled beers are listed in the menu with several Super 8 and Tongerlo branded beers from Brouwerij Haacht.

Korenlei on left bank of the Leie                                                                              Gravensteen
Later on, after a lunch break and a walk along Korenlei towards Gravensteen castle we noticed that Het Waterhuis van Bierkant looked busy (top photo) so we continued along Kraanlei before turning right towards St James' church and recrossing the Leie on Zuivelbrug. 

Trollekelder

Trollekelder (closed), with two tall windows, earlier on Sunday
By now, Trollekelder was open and we found a table inside, up a few steps and near the front windows.

There's a large painting on the wall opposite the bar that was visible from our table.
Looking up, you can see through an opening to the upper floor.
There's a long beer menu with all options maintained online and accessible from a QR code. Looking at the first two categories, Op't vat (draught) lists 14 beers and Gentse Bieren (local) lists 17 bottles. You can surely find a beer you like here but Pat was disappointed that the cider list only included two Somersby ciders.
Tim's choices here were (draught) Trollebier Blond brewed by Brouwerij van Steenberge and Ter Dolen Tripel which is typically sweet. Note that Kwak was served in the traditional coachman's glass in a wooden holder. Our helpful barman did not ask for a shoe in exchange for a Kwak and suggested holding the wooden handle to drink from the glass.

We set off again back over Zuivelbrug intending to visit Cafe Folklore. On the way we passed 't Klokhuys Brasserie at and a wisteria covered house in Drongenhof. Unfortunately, there was a sign on the door of Cafe Folklore advising that the beer cafe only opens on the first and third Friday / Saturday / Sunday of each month and this was the fourth Sunday. Heading back towards the river Leie via Plotersgracht we went to Aba-jour instead.

Aba-jour

The entrance to Aba-jour at Oudburg 20 leads to a passage before you reach the stylish art deco style brasserie that overlooks the river.
We had hoped for a river view but these tables are reserved for diners so we took a table opposite the bar instead. The bar has a line of ten bar stools in matching art deco style.
Our view also included an elegant 1930s-era large graphic panel of two women in contrasting bathing costumes holding a white ladder.
The printed menu lists eight draught beers, seven local beers and bottles from six Trappist breweries  amongst other categories.
Tim chose draught Saison Voisin from Brasserie des Legendes but was disappointed to find it more sour than expected.

Leaving around 7.30pm, we set off in search of a less upmarket place for a meal.
We passed Cafe de Welkom near the junction of Oudburg and Drongenhof but this is simply a taproom for Gent's Dok Brewing Co without catering. 

Amadeus Gent 1

Returning to Plotersgracht we noticed Amadeus Gent 1 and ventured inside. We were greeted and shown to a free table.
From here we could admire the decor that includes stained glass, mirrors, bric-a-brac and a wall of books.
It was busy inside but our orders were soon taken and for our last night in Belgium we all enjoyed substantial meals that were reasonably priced. Tim's steak with peppercorn sauce was perfectly cooked and served with a baked potato and salad. The limited beer menu includes Westmalle Dubbel and Tripel (above), Tripel Karmeliet, Delirium Tremens and Red, Leffe Blond.
Four of our group were also tempted and intrigued by the three layered Irish Coffee served in a glass together with a Biscoff biscuit. 
There are branches of the restaurant chain in Antwerp and Brussels.

Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant

Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant
By 10pm, the crowds had gone from the streets and we had no difficulty finding a good table at Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant
There is an impressive bound beer menu and we asked the barman to give us a bit more time to study it before taking our order which was professionally served. The draught page (left) includes three exclusive beers at the top. The Abbey beer page warns that they are not Trappist beers and that the abbeys may not exist! There is also the reminder that payment is per table and not per person. There is also a page for beers from Ghent's Brouwerij Artevelde.
Tim's final beers in Ghent were draught Brouwerij Huyghe Paranoia (IPA) dry-hopped with Citra and Mosaic and a bottle of Ter Dolen Armand, dry-hopped with Cascade and named after the co-founder of the brewery Armand Desplenter.
Jeff had previously set us a task of choosing eight 'Desert Island Discs' and we had a good time taking turns in rounds to present our choices and say a few words about them.
Perhaps it's not surprising that we are friends when we all enjoy beer, music, travel and can cope with spending four full days together!
After midnight, it was time to leave and walk back to the hotel just as the Waterhuis was about to close.

Some bars close even later on a Sunday night in Ghent.
Passing near St James' church again we noticed that it was busy at Afsnis at a quarter past midnight. A bar to visit on another trip perhaps!


12 May 2026

Six visit Antwerp in April 2026

 

Antwerp Cafe City route plan at Cabardouche Taproom
Three sunny days in Antwerp from Thursday 23 April and six friends visited 16 beer cafes / bars / taprooms after travelling from West Berkshire by train via London and Brussels.

Tim devised itineraries for three days before a  move to Ghent on Sunday. This was a first visit to Antwerp for some so the idea was to include a variety of establishments to include traditional 'brown' beer cafes, specialist beer bars and brewery taprooms. 
Apart from the busy area around Groenplaats and the cathedral there were visits to Havenhuis and MAS in the docks area on Friday and the 'improved' environments around KMSKA and Zuidpark in the Zuid / South district on Saturday.
Tim was able to add Cabardouche Taproom, Cafe Beveren and Quinten Matsijs to his Antwerp tally and this post will only feature these three establishments in any detail.
Some of Tim's favourite Antwerp beer cafes were revisited including De Ware Jacob (bottom left photo with Jeff, Mike, Pat, Tommy and Rich), De Vagant (bottom centre photo with Bart behind the bar), Jazz Cafe de Muze and Paters Vaetje.
Unfortunately, the timing of our visit coincided with a temporary closure of Oud Arsenaal so it was only possible to get a photo of the historic brown cafe's exterior. With Tim's plan for the first pub of the trip stymied, we headed instead to De Kroon van Hopland a corner brown cafe that is another of his favourites.
L to R: Tommy, Mike, Tim, Rich & Pat
De Kroon appears to be under recent new ownership but the original furniture and decor remains and the barman was happy to take our photo holding up the delayed first beer of the trip, De Koninck Bolleke, brewed in the city. (Jeff had travelled on a later train and arrived at De Kroon, for his first Bolleke, after the photo above was taken.)

Cabardouche Taproom

On Saturday morning, with Rich on his way back from Breda after Waterakkers Parkrun (no local Belgian park run) and Tommy heading to Rotterdam for a Feyenoord v Groningen football match, only four of the group reached Cabardouche taproom initially.
Situated at Engelselei 254 in the multicultural Borgerhout district, we found a table inside the Taproom underneath a railway arch. There is a mix of seating options with a raised level on the inner side and big windows facing the street. It was nice to see plenty of (real) greenery and hear some funky music playing.
Flat white coffee
We were impressed by the industrious lone staff member who served us excellent (Caffenation) coffees and later beers while also attending to customers enjoying the sunshine outside.
A blackboard lists the current draught beers. The first beer we enjoyed here was Cabardouche Blonde Stoot (left, 5% ABV) with a minimum 33cl serving for €4.50. Tim's second beer was the brewery's Woeste Angela (right, 5% ABV), pleasantly sweet and costing €5 for 25cl. 
As with the Speciale Belge taproom in Antwerp first visited in March 2026, Cabardouche taproom is also an independent Antwerp brewery taproom that Tim now recommends and will surely return to on future trips. 

Cafe Beveren

At Vlasmarkt 2, Cafe Beveren enjoys a corner setting with views towards the river Scheldt.
On Saturday afternoon, after lunch of Croque Monsieur etc at Entrepot du Congo and a walk across Zuidpark to reach Scheldekaai Zuid 'linear park' by the river Scheldt, we were able to find a table inside Cafe Beveren next to the impressive 1937 Decap Jazz Organ. The decor is retro with photos and cartoons of Elvis Presley and others on the walls.
The jukebox was playing except when money was placed in the slot for the Jazz Organ to play a single tune. However, the fun was only just beginning as a hen party group arrived, recognisable by their white rimmed sunglasses, and some got up to dance on the furniture to the tune of 'You're the one that I want'.
Meanwhile our group had beers to drink from the limited beer list that includes draught Corsendonk Kriek Belgique (3% ABV). Cafe Beveren is usually only open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. This is a popular bar with locals and you may find it too busy or noisy at times so be prepared to revisit at a quieter time for the special experience of hearing and seeing the Jazz Organ playing (bring one euro coins for the slot).

Quinten Matsijs

At Moriaanstraat 17,  Quentin Matsijs, a traditional family-run restaurant bar, was busy on Saturday but a reservation was made for 8pm in person and we spent the intervening time at nearby Cafe de Kat.
Our group was given a table on the left of the entrance and well spaced from other customers. Three opted for Stoofvlees (Flemish beef stew) cooled with Trappist beer and served with chips or potato croquettes.
The draught beer range includes De Koninck Bolleke, Maredsous Tripel, La Chouffe and Cherry Chouffe (above). Bottled beers (16) include Duvel, Gouden Carolus and Cornet in addition to Abbey beers (2) Corsendonk and Trappist beers (5) Westmalle, Orval and Chimay. Originally an inn, the building dates back to 1565 and has colourful stained glass windows.
The decor, furniture, atmospheric lighting and personal service make a reservation worthwhile to ensure a beer and a meal in historic surroundings. However, a reservation may not be necessary at quieter times.