09 April 2026

Northern Czech Republic breweries by train

It's possible to visit many breweries in the Czech Republic without driving. This post covers March 2026 visits by train to Pivovar Falkenštejn in Krásná Lípa, Zámecký Pivovar Frýdlant 'Albrecht' in Frýdlant v Čechách and Pivovar Kotouč in Česká Kamenice. All three breweries are in locations near the German border and from 1938-1945 were in Sudetenland, the border region of Czechoslovakia, annexed by Nazi Germany.
Map derived from https://viaduct.world/ of the north of the Czech Republic with train trips to brewerries highlighted.
On Thursday 12 March we arrived in Děčín on the European Sleeper train from Brussels to Prague having boarded at Antwerp the previous evening.
After coffee in the station restaurant we boarded a 10.45 train to Rumburk, retracing part of the route along the banks of the river Elbe to Bad Schandau and then branching off for a scenic ride on the single track railway line through Saxon Switzerland (Sächsische Schweiz).
10 minutes after arrival in Rumburk we caught the 12.38 train, arriving at Krásná Lípa at 12.43.

Pivovar Falkenštejn

Pivovar Falkenštejn occupies the two buildings on the left
From here it was a downhill walk to Pivovar Falkenštejn where we would enjoy an evening meal in the brewery restaurant before a night at the brewery guesthouse upstairs.
After checking in and a complimentary first beer (Světák) we took a walk along footpaths and minor roads to gain views of Bohemian Switzerland (Ceske Svycarsko) to the west.
With a menu prepared by chef René Vokurka, the restaurant is popular and our first beer (Letni Virgin Gose ( 0.3cl 54 Kc) was served at the end of the bar before our reserved table became available.
Tim's Desperát APA (4.8% ABV, 64 Kc / 50cl) proved a good accompaniment to onion soup followed by a chicken dish with roast vegetables.
Named after the town's historic philanthropist, Dittrich (5.5% ABV, 64Kc / 50 cl) was an excellent alternative to coffee after the meal.
The modern brewery (established in 2013 by Jan Srb and since expanded) is visible from exterior windows and windows in the restaurant area.
Regular beers from Pivovar Falkenštejn also include Rudoch (Red ale), Ostroff (Amber lager), Tropická bouře (Hazy NEIPA) and in March, Náhlá Smrt (Sudden death, 10% ABV Imperial Cascadian dark ale dedicated to 'Lemmy' of Motörhead.).
Krásná Lípa was an interesting place to stay and has a Tourist Information office. Pivovar Falkenštejn is recommended for its friendly welcome, beer, food and accommodation.
After a good breakfast at the guesthouse, we checked out and caught a bus to Varnsdorf on a scenic route to connect with a train to Liberec with a route that passes through Germany and Poland.
Arrival at Liberec

Zámecký Pivovar Frýdlant 'Albrecht'

On Friday, after lunch and checking in to Hotel Liberec we headed back to Liberec station for a busy train to Frýdlant v Čechách. This was a steady uphill journey for most of the way with fine views that takes 31 minutes to cover 26km.
From the station we walked the 1.5km to the brewery via the town and the Frýdlant castle park.
The brewery and office is on the left side with high windows.
We entered the whitewashed taproom using the door on the right side and found a table under the small window.
The taproom has wood panelling and there are some cushions to compensate for the hard seats.
Details of the draught beers are pinned to an upright supporting the narrow bar counter. Tim found the dark Kateřina 12 (0.3l 50Kc) slightly disappointing but the Andělská IPA 23 (10% ABV, 0.3l 58Kc) with a thick head, strong aroma and barley sugar sweetness was a treat.
We took an alternative route for the walk back to the station as darkness fell, beside the river Smědá which skirts the hill topped by Frýdlant castle.
The train to Liberec seemed to coast downhill quickly back to the city.

Pivovar Kotouč


We visited Česká Kamenice on Tuesday 17 March, our last day in the Czech Republic, before taking the European Sleeper train back to Brussels and then Eurostar to London.
The 10.36 train from Děčín hl.n. reached Česká Kamenice at 11.05.
It was a nice surprise to discover on the walk into town from the station that there was a brewery in the town although Pizza Kamenice, the nearby associated pizza cafe, is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
The town centre looks smart after recent investment and staff at the tourist information centre were helpful.
For coffee they suggested Hosana cafe at the renovated cultural centre which also serves beer.
A good recommendation and after a morning visit for coffee, a subsequent visit allowed a first taste of beer from the town's brewery - draught Kamenicka Kaple (5.7% ABV).
At lunchtime we had visited another recommended establishment near the river Kamenice - Restaurace U Slunce - where the refreshing draught beer was Bakalář Světlý ležák (4.9% ABV). Three other draught beers were available including Pilsner Urquell and Kozel 11.
Walking back to the station, we stopped for another look at the brewery buildings and discovered that a blue door led to a large hallway with a staircase. A pine door at first floor level led to the brewery and large taproom with a vaulted ceiling and clay tile flooring. .
The brewery was in a far corner of the room.
There's a suit of armour in another corner, a billiard table and a variety of mismatched furniture which provides plenty of seating space.
There were five draught beers at the bar counter.
The taproom was busy at 4pm on a Tuesday but the competitive prices may be part of the explanation.
Tim's 0.5l chunky-handled glass of Kamenický Zlaták 11° cost 45 Kc (approx £1.65) and was his favourite beer of the day. All too soon it was time to catch the 16.46 train back to Děčín.


Train travel notes


Ticket prices on Czech Railways are cheaper than in the UK.
Passengers over 65 qualify for a 50% reduction on standard fares but may need to present a passport on request for proof of age.
The Czech Railways App is good and allows tickets to be purchased online and stored on a mobile device without the need for a printed ticket.





07 April 2026

Antwerp - March 2026

This brief trip to Antwerp preceded a trip on a European Sleeper train to Decin in the north of the Czech Republic. This train from Brussels to Prague only runs on three days each week and Antwerp is the first stop. Arriving in Brussels on a Eurostar train from London on Tuesday 10 March 2026, we were able to connect with a SNCB train to Antwerp despite a strike on Belgian railways.

It's always a pleaure to arrive at Antwerpen Centraal. However, on this occasion an escalator from a low level platform was out of service but a lift provided the necessary elevation for us and our luggage to the original entrance. After a walk in the rain we reached Citybox, our economical contemporary accommodation for the night.


De Hovenier

An evening in Antwerp provided the opportunity to walk towards the cathedral and visit some bars. De Hovenier, Sint-Jacobsmarkt 26, wasn't busy at 18.45.
For the first beer in Antwerp, it was a simple choice to order draught De Koninck Bolleke, brewed nearby (€2.90 / 25cl). There are three other draught beers and 15 bottled beers, including Seef Bier and Tripel Westmalle (€4.30) on the laminated drinks menu.
The marble topped tables, traditional tiled floor, wood panelling and furniture make this a good example of a traditional bar. The landlord was jolly and a large drawing of his smiling face is pinned on a wall near the internal steel chimney pipe for the log burner. After settling for our drinks in cash it was nice to be invited to return another day. De Hovenier can be recommended as a place to call in for a beer for anyone not bothered by the choice of schmaltzy music that may be playing. 

Cafe de Kat

We arrived at Cafe de Kat, Wolstraat 22, at 19.45 and found a free window table. The laminated beer menu lists 3 draught beers including De Koninck(€3.60) and 18 bottles including Seef (€5.20) and Westmalle Tripel (€4.60).
Tim's choice was Westmalle Dubbel (€3.70). Despite the stylish Drinkt De Koninck neon sign behind the bar, this is a classic beer cafe with marble topped tables, traditional tiled floor, mirrors, wood panelling and furniture.
Mirror on far wall reflects neon sign above the bar
It is one of 16 Antwerp bars featured in Belgian Cafe Culture by Regula Ysewijn.

Jazz Cafe de Muze

Arriving at De Muze, Melkmarkt 15, by 8.45pm, before the 9pm jazz start, allowed us to find a table near the stage and order drinks before the 50 cent surcharge on drinks. Tim enjoyed a glass of Lupulus NEIPA with music from De Muze 5, the regular Tuesday night band. The handwritten beer menu card lists 10 draught beers including De Koninck Bolleke (€4.1) and 19 bottled beers including Seefbier (€5.4) and Westmalle Tripel (€5.3).
The dimly lit large space has a high ceiling, heavy light fittings, exposed beams and brickwork with two staircases to an upper level.
De Muze is near the Cathedral of our Lady which is illuminated at night.

Kassa 4

It's about a 15 minute walk from De Muze to Kassa 4, Ossenmarkt 21, near Citybox and the university. There were customers outside and we were able to find a table inside at 10.15pm. It was nice to discover plenty of traditional original features inside including floor tiles, marble table tops, wooden panelling and furniture.
A variety of enamel brewery signs are displayed on upper levels of the walls. A large blackboard above the bar lists the available beers, six on draught including De Koninck (€4) and 22 bottles priced at €4, €4.50 or €5 (maximum). Tim's last beer of the evening was a bottle of Troubadour Magma (€5). 

De Koninck Bar

The first beer of the afternoon on Wednesday was a Bolleke (€3.50) at the De Koninck Shop which has a bar and seating area.
The main De Koninck Bar is separated from the shop area by an internal opening.
Main bar with high seating and copper vessel in far room
This access was closed with a curtain due to a later opening time but there was an opportunity to get a photo. After many visits to Antwerp this was Tim's first visit to De Koninck brewery and with curiosity satisfied, probably the last. 

Speciale Belge Taproom

In contrast, a first visit to Speciale Belge Taproom is unlikely to be Tim's last.
Cobbled entrance to Taproom with blackboard listing beers
About a 12 minute walk towards Zurenborg from De Koninck Brewery, it is situated in the PAKT courtyard area that includes other enterprises including Caffenation PAKT for coffee. 
View towards bar with tank beers above and Untappd beer menu on screens
It's a friendly place with a slightly alternative feel to it. The brewery motto 'Goed Bier  Goed Volk' is displayed on an overhead banner.
Brewery vessels to the right of the bar can be observed through a glass screen.
From the 'home brewed' beers, Tim chose Al Blondy (€4.50) served in a stemmed glass with the brewery logo and tasting pleasantly fruity.
Ipadawan, a hazy DDH Session IPA (€5.5) proved equally enjoyable. Leaving at 5.15pm we had time to walk back to Citybox, collect our luggage, eat a quick meal at Thai Wok Express and buy cold beers at Proxy Delhaize, Astridplein, ready for the overnight train journey, departing at 20.02 hrs from a low level platform.
The chilled Leffe Blond and Tripel Karmeliet from the supermarket were enjoyed travelling through Belgium and the Netherlands before sleep across Germany until approaching Berlin.
Thursday 7.15am in Berlin - view from European Sleeper train