Beer Europe

05 October 2024

Tournai and Kortrijk

With a base in Lille, it is easy to cross the border into Belgium and visit Tournai and Kortrijk.

On Thursday 12 September 2024, Tim Thomas crossed the border by train and visited both cities on anti-clockwise triangular route. See appendix for details of the trains travelled on.

Tournai

In Wallonia, Tournai (Doornik in Dutch) is situated on the river Scheldt, 50 km northwest of Mons and 25 km east of Lille.

Catching a delayed train from Lille Flandres gave an earlier arrival than planned at Tournai. The impressive railway station lies about one kilometer north of the landmark Belfry. The pedestrian route to the Belfry leads across the river Scheldt and its quaysides and around the Cathedral of Our Lady with its five towers.

Before returning to the Grand Place (above with Cathedral to the left and Belfry to the right), there was time for a visit to the Musee des Beaux-Arts, designed by Victor Horta, before the lunchtime closing. The collection includes art by Manet, Oleffe and Seurat.

After this cultural treat it was time for a liquid treat at Au Vieux Tournay, Grand Place 48.

An external blackboard lists the beers available inside - three on draught, including Stella Artois, and over 70 bottles.

A sentence in blue mentions that payment by cash is required and that cards are not accepted. There's also a bound menu inside which includes the following items:

Les Blondes - Tournay Triple - De Cazeau - 5.1 euros
Les Saison - Tremist Saison - Kazematten - 3.8 euros
Les Gueuzes - Oude Gueuze - De Troch - 6.5 euros (37.5 cl)
Rhub-Elle - Lambiek Fabriek - 20 euros (75 cl)
Barrel aged - Gouden Carolus Whiskey Infused - Het Anker - 6 euros
Les Trappistes - Orval - 5 euros, 6 euros (+6 months), 7 euros (+1 year)
Tynt Meadow - Mount Saint Bernard Abbey - 7 euros
Snacks - Portion fromage Orval - 5.7 euros
Saucisson sec - 6.6 euros

When Tim arrived there was a group at an outside table and two individuals inside on the right side, viewed from the bar. Photos taken after their departure are arranged above with the right side at the top. On the left side of the bar, Tim's glass of Boscoli fruit beer from Brouwerij Het Anker (4.7 euros) is shown.

Next to a colourful disc, a book by Sophie Vanrafelghem – Les 200 Meilleur Cafes de Wallonie et Bruxelles was balanced against the wall. A look inside revealed that Au Vieux Tournay was included. The book reveals that Audry and Elisa are the hosts here. It's obviously a good place for beer lovers to meet and it was a pleasure to enjoy the surroundings at a quiet time, if only briefly on this first occasion.

The ‘Visit Tournai’ office at Place Paul-Emile Janson 1, has some useful brochures including ‘Time 4 Beer’ (available online). Local breweries highlighted are: Cazeau, Brunehaut, Dubuisson, Dupont, Caulier, Carrieres, De Ranke and Du Grand Mir.

A compact folding leaflet is available for anyone interested in architecture - Art Nouveau in Tournai / Doornik.

Railway station side of Art Nouveau in Tournai / Doornik brochure

With some time to spare before the train to Kortrijk, the Art Nouveau brochure was useful for finding interesting architecture near Tournai station.

Place Victor Carbonelle, 5

The other side of the brochure features the southwest part of the city including the Musee des Beaux-Arts, Boulevard Leopold and Boulevard du Roi Albert.

It was nice to ride on the top deck of a quiet train to its final destination - Kortrijk, via Herseaux and Mouscron.

Kortrijk

In West Flanders, Kortrijk (Courtrai in French) is situated on the river Leie, 42 km southwest of Ghent and 25 km northeast of Lille.

Arriving at Kortrijk by train, it's obvious that many bicycles are parked in front of the station.

Kortrijk also has a notable Belfry with a WWI memorial beside it.

There was time to wander through the historic Begijnhof / Beguinage before crossing a branch of the river Leie by the bridge at the Broel Towers to reach Buda island.

Most bars in Kortrijk don't open until late afternoon on a Thursday but at least there was an opportunity to get a photo of Brasserie ‘t Mouterijtje.

A nearby bar on Buda island, Kunstkroeg De Doedelzak, was also closed but snapped for the blog.

It would be Cafe deDingen, almost opposite, that could provide a beer on a Thursday afternoon. Inside there was a nice ‘alternative’ feel about the place and music playing included tracks by Wu-Tang Clan and 50 Cent.

At the back of the long cafe, there are glass doors giving views into Brouwerij Ruimtegist.

Sadly, no Ruimtegist beers were available at the cafe counter but a local Verzet by Brouwerij 't Verzet (2.8 euros) was refreshing.

The photos above show the length of the cafe premises, viewed from the back at slightly different angles.

At 4.30pm it was time to recross the river Leie. From this bridge, the whitewashed 't Fonteintje can be seen on a corner, on the right bank, half way to the Broel towers.

A menu blackboard outside 't Fonteintje shows the kitchen opening time as 6.30pm.

Inside, the front bar was already busy a few minutes after opening so a table in the empty back room with a view of the bar and the traditional Bieren Omer Vanderghinste (O V) stained glass window was a good compromise.

From the bar counter, a generous 25 cl serving of draught Ypra (O V) cost 4.50 euros.

The side door to the blue walled back room was wedged open so it wasn't warm inside but it was further from the noise of an excavator working on the road in front.

Several hours would pass and three further O V beers would be enjoyed. During this time, the excavations stop, the side door was closed, the 'Reserved' sign was moved to a different table and the candles were lit as diners arrived. A complimentary bowl of crisps was served with the 25cl bottle of Rouge Max (4.5 euros) but a further bowl to go with the 25cl bottle of Bellegems Wit (3 euros) was declined. The lasagne bolognaise was accompanied by a basket of bread and butter and a draught Tripel LeFort (4 euros). Lasagne and spaghetti seem to be menu staples in Flanders and Brussels bars. This lasagne bolognaise was preferable to one at Antwerp's Paters Vaetje but could not match the classic at Poechenellekelder in Brussels.

After a visit to the superior toilet facilities and paying the bill at the bar counter, once outside the dusk light made additional photos worthwhile at 8.25pm (Belgian time).

It only takes 10 minutes for a brisk walk from here to Gainsbar near Kortrijk station.

Stadhuis (top left), Stadsschouwburg (bottom left), Belfry (centre), Sint-Maartenskerk from Grote Markt (top right)

A few stops were needed to photograph interesting architecture and street art on the route via Grote Markt (Grand Place), also passing near the Stadsschouwburg (theatre).

At Vlasmarkt 1, Gainsbar was quite a contrast to the bistro style of 't Fonteintje. Gainsbar was dimly lit with loud music playing and a younger clientele.

The track playing (e.g. by Mark Lanegan) could be identified from a square screen surrounded by album covers near the entrance. It's necessary to literally step up to the elevated counter to order a beer. A unique feature is the 'wall of speakers' that forms the bar front. There's a mix of seating with high stools at the bar and near the entrance and low seating on the far side.

With less than half an hour to linger here before heading to the station, a 25 cl glass of Bockor Pils (2.80 euros) brewed locally by O V was the simple choice from an extensive menu and tap list.

The tap list above the bar included beers from Scotland by Holy Goat and Brewdog. The printed menu is available from a holder directly beneath the tap list and gives details of the distance from the bar of the brewery for each beer. A future visit to Kortrijk should allow longer time in this bar which, like 't Fonteintje, also has an extensive pavement area for external tables.

There was time to buy a ticket from a machine and reach platform 4A for the last train to Lille Flanders at 21.14. Confusingly, the Poperinge train directly in front of the Lille train would depart from platform 4B at 21.10. It was a relief to be on the correct train for the journey back to France!

Appendix: Train details:

front and back of non personalised pass pass plastic card

Note that an ilevia Pass Pass plastic card ('non personalised') can be purchased from ticket machines in Lille e.g. Lille Europe, Lille Flanders stations.

When the pass includes e.g. 24 hours travel this includes bus, tram, metro and local trains.

Ilevia tram and metro plan

Extent of train routes covered by ilevia Pass Pass plastic card for Lille

Ticket passes can be purchased for an evening, or 1-7 days. For example a 96 hour / 4 day pass costs 15.10 euros + 2 euros for the card which can be reused subsequently. The card should be placed on a validator at the start of each leg of a journey. Validators are located on entrance barriers at metro stations, at the platforms for trams, at rail station entrances to platform areas or inside buses near the driver.

It's possible to save money on international journeys by using the Pass Pass card for the French part of the journey and buying an international ticket from the French border e.g. Baisieux for Lille to Tournai. The SNCB International app can be used to buy tickets between France and Belgium. These can used as e-tickets without printing. For international journeys there is a discount for age 65+ (shown within brackets)

Lille Flanders > Tournai 2nd class from 5.10 (4.60) euros 1st class from 6.10 (5.40) euros
Baisieux > Tournai 4.30 (3.80) euros 5.30 (4.60) euros

Lille Flanders > Kortrijk 2nd class from 5.90 (5.20) euros 1st class from 7.10 (6.10) euros
Roubaix / Tourcoing > Kortrijk 5.10 (4.40) euros 6.30 (5.30) euros

For shorter single journeys within Belgium there is no 'Senior' discount and the 2nd class fare from Tournai to Kortrijk is 6.50 euros. Tickets can be purchased from a machine at the station or as an e-ticket using the SNCB (domestic) app.

For the journey Roubaix > Lille Flanders (Metro), Lille Flanders > Tournai; Tournai > Kortrijk, Kortrijk > Roubaix the total cost of fares in conjunction with a Pass Pass card is 15.90 (14.70) euros.

Lille Flandres station

Lille Flandres dep 9.08 Tournai arr 9.36 (this train was delayed by 16 minutes on 12/9/24)

10.08 10.36 ( next train)

Note that at Tournai the international train changes into a domestic service from Tournai to Namur via Mons. It's possible to buy an international ticket from Lille Flandres to Namur on these services for 25.40 (12.00) euros.

An excerpt from the Tournai departures poster shows that on weekdays there are usually seven trains an hour with services to Saint-Nicholas (Flanders via Brussels), Quevy (via Mons), Mouscron (Wallonia), Brussels airport (via Brussels) and Kortrijk / Courtrai (via Mouscron) in addition to those to Lille and Namur.

Tournai station

Tournai dep 13.53 Kortrijk / Courtrai arr 14.22

Kortrijk / Courtrai station

Kortrijk / Courtrai dep 21.14 Roubaix arr 21.40 arr Lille Flandres 21.51 (last train)

20.14 20.40 arr Lille Flandres 20.51 (previous train)

Roubaix station

14 July 2024

Brussels - revisits - June 2024

With two nights in Brussels, after three nights in Antwerp for Bierpassie Weekend (21-23 June), there was a chance to revisit some favourite beer bars with Simon, Richard and Andrew and solo on Monday evening after their return to London.

At the end of this post, the chart above showing posts about previous visits to Brussels bars, provides blog post weblinks for more photos and descriptions of all the bars revisited.

Only a few steps from the iconic Mannekin Pis water feature lies the pub we inevitably visit on the Sunday as it is closed on Mondays.

Poechenellekelder

The tables in the courtyard of Poechenellekelder were all occupied on a warm Sunday afternoon but we secured a table immediately inside, near windows which overloooked it.

Our table was also near two other windows, one open, facing buildings in Rue du Chene.

The ceiling above had the familiar combination of puppets and suspended bric-a-brac.

The beers Tim enjoyed here for the first time were draught Blanche Framboise by Brasserie de Bertinchamps (fruity but not sweet) and Pater Lieven Triple by Brouwerij Van Den Bossche from the bottle 'spicy-bitter with fruity character'. There were complimentary salty nibbles that were welcome as Tim wasn't ready for a meal yet, unlike Simon who had his customary lasagne dish before getting the Eurostar train back to London.

There's some street art on the Rue du Chene on the route for our group of three to the next destination.

GIST

We arrived at GIST soon after 7pm, just too late for 'Happy Hour' offers which start at 5pm.

Beers are priced for 25cl and 50cl measures and there's always an interesting selection chalked up above the bar.

The 25cl glasses of draught beer that Tim enjoyed here for the first time (photographed with the handpumps in the background) were Fee Steve (Blonde) by Brasserie Valduc-Thor (4 euros) and La Super Sanglier (Blonde) by Brasserie Minne (4.50 euros). These small breweries are both based between Brussels and Namur to the south and their beers are unlikely to be seen at Antwerp bars in Flanders, north of Brussels.

Apart from the handpumps, interesting features in GIST include lamp shades made from a variety of percussion cymbals and the ceiling mouldings.

An interesting selection of music was played on the sound system during our visit. The SoundHound music App came in useful for identifying some of the music.

Simplenote stored the results for use in future blog posts etc!

Place Dinant

Just as GIST is a short distance from Poechenellekelder so also our next destination is a short distance from GIST and just around the corner from Place Dinant.

La Fleur en Papier Doree / Het Goudblommeke in Papier

After visiting on two consecutive days in 2023, Tim was determined to revisit La Fleur en Papier Doree also known by its Dutch name Het Goudblommeke in Papier.

Andrew and Richard were easily convinced to head there and immediately impressed by its charm on entering.

The small bar is decorated with items that have hung there since 1944 by Geert (Gerard) van Bruaene who knew all the artists of the day. A small blackboard on the counter reveals that the beer of the month is Taras Boulba from Brasserie de la Senne (4.20 euros).

A laminated menu card on the bar lists the regular beers available. Beers can be served with ginger extract for a 40 cents supplement. Draught beers are priced for 25cl or 40cl servings.

Tim chose his favourite here - a large glass of draught Saison Verschueren (5 euros).

Our table was in the front room with an unusual 'stove', sprouting brass knobs, between us and the windows with stained glass sections.

In keeping with the cafe bar's floral name there was a charming painting of flowers on a wall.

Before leaving, Tim promised to return on Monday but would instead visited the sister establishment - Brasserie Verschueren. His promise will surely be kept eventually as La Fleur has become a firm favourite in Brussels.

A la Mort Subite

On a warm Monday afternoon, after visiting Woodpecker kiosk, Au Bon Vieux Temps and Le Corbeau with Andrew and Richard, our last beer together would be at the renowned A la Mort Subite, Rue Montagne aux Herbes Potageres 7.

The brasserie has high ceilings, rows of identical tables, bench seating against the long wall and ornate walls with many mirrors to make the space look even bigger. It was very quiet and so there was no chance to observe the practised technique of the waiters which usually provides some additional interest.

Draught Mort Subite Peche (6.50 euros) was Tim's refreshing beer of choice.

Tim, Richard and Andrew

All good things must come to an end but there was still time for a photo outside A la Mort Subite before Andrew and Richard headed for their Eurostar train back to London.

Brasserie Verschueren

A few hours later, in the evening of that warm Monday, the cafe tables outside Brasserie Verschueren, Saint Gilles, were busy while nearly all the tables inside were free.

It was a pleasure to return here, join the short queue at the bar, order a large Saison Verschueren / Verschu and drink it at a table surrounded by the minimalist art deco style surroundings of the cafe bar with all the windows open.

A 33cl bottle of Verschueren Tripel was the second beer Tim obtained from the bar.

With Twitter / X on his phone for company and some tunes playing on the sound system that suited his taste, the SoundHound music App and Simplenote again came in useful.

An obligatory photo of the historic football leagues indicator at the far end of the cafe bar was another memento of this relaxing evening.

Brasserie de l'Union

At the opposite end of Parvis de Saint-Gilles from the church, Brasserie de l'Union enjoys a prominent corner site with windows on two sides.

After a first visit to L'Ermitage Sant-Gilles, Tim sat inside Brasserie de l'Union for a beer and a meal before continuing to Brasserie Verschueren. The Plats du Jour listed on a blackboard were tempting and keenly priced but an order of a small spaghetti bolognese from the standard menu was delivered as a small vegetable lasagne. Perhaps an attempt to order in French would have achieved the intended result? However, this substitution was accepted without question and enjoyed.

Most beers are keenly priced at 4 euros (cash, no bank cards) and Brasserie Lupulus Organicus triple, brewed near the Luxembourg border, was refreshing. Music played here included Police & Thieves - Junior Murvin.