Tournai and Kortrijk

With a base in Lille, it is easy to cross the border into Belgium and visit Tournai and Kortrijk.

On Thursday 12 September 2024, Tim Thomas crossed the border by train and visited both cities on anti-clockwise triangular route. See appending for details of the trains taken.

Tournai

In Wallonia, Tournai (Doornik in Dutch) is situated on the river Scheldt, 50 km northwest of Mons and 25 km east of Lille.

The impressive railway station lies about one kilometer north of the landmark Belfry. The pedestrian route to the Belfry leads across the river Scheldt and its quaysides and around the Cathedral of Our Lady with its five towers.

Before returning to the Grand Place (above with Cathedral to the left and Belfry to the right), there was time for a visit to the Musee des Beaux-Arts, designed by Victor Horta, before the lunchtime closing. The collection includes art by Manet, Oleffe and Seurat.

After this cultural treat it was time for a liquid treat at Au Vieux Tournay, Grand Place 48.

An external blackboard lists the beers available inside - three on draught, including Stella Artois, and over 70 bottles.

A sentence in blue mentions that payment by cash is required and that cards are not accepted. There's also a bound menu inside which includes the following items:

Les Blondes - Tournay Triple - De Cazeau - 5.1 euros

Les Saison - Tremist Saison - Kazematten - 3.8 euros

Les Gueuzes - Oude Gueuze - De Troch - 6.5 euros (37.5 cl)

Rhub-Elle - Lambiek Fabriek - 20 euros (75 cl)

Barrel aged - Gouden Carolus Whiskey Infused - Het Anker - 6 euros

Les Trappistes - Orval - 5 euros, 6 euros (+6 months), 7 euros (+1 year)

Tynt Meadow - Mount Saint Bernard Abbey - 7 euros

Snacks - Portion fromage Orval - 5.7 euros

Saucisson sec - 6.6 euros

When Tim arrived there was a group at an outside table and two individuals inside on the right side, viewed from the bar. Photos taken after their departure are arranged above with the right side at the top. On the left side of the bar, Tim's glass of Boscoli fruit beer from Brouwerij Het Anker (4.7 euros) is shown.

Next to a colourful disc, a book by Sophie Vanrafelghem – Les 200 Meilleur Cafe de Wallonia and Brussels was balanced against the wall. A look inside revealed that Au Vieux Tournay was included. The book reveals that Audry and Elisa are the hosts here. It's obviously a good place for beer lovers to meet and it was a pleasure to enjoy the surroundings at a quiet time, if only briefly on this first occasion.

The ‘Visit Tournai’ office at Place Paul-Emile Janson 1, has some useful brochures including ‘Time 4 Beer’ (available online) and Art Nouveau in Tournai / Doornik.

Railway station side of Art Nouveau in Tournai / Doornik brochure

With some time to spare before the train to Kortrijk, the Art Nouveau brochure was useful for finding interesting architecture near Tournai station.

Place Victor Carbonelle, 5

The other side of the brochure features the southwest part of the city including the Musee des Beaux-Arts, Boulevard Leopold and Boulevard du Roi Albert.

It was nice to ride on the top deck of a quiet train to its final destination - Kortrijk, via Herseaux and Mouscron.

Kortrijk

In West Flanders, Kortrijk (Courtrai in French) is situated on the river Leie, 42 km southwest of Ghent and 25 km northeast of Lille.

Arriving at Kortrijk by train, it's obvious that many bicycles are parked in front of the station.

Kortrijk also has a notable Belfry with a WWI memorial beside it.

There was time to wander through the historic Begijnhof / Beguinage before crossing a branch of the river Leie by the bridge at the Broel Towers to reach Buda island.

Most bars in Kortrijk don't open until late afternoon on a Thursday but at least there was an opportunity to get a photo of ‘t Mouterijtje.

A nearby bar on Buda island, Kunstkroeg De Doedelzak, was also closed but snapped for the blog.

It would be Cafe deDingen, almost opposite, that could provide a beer on a Thursday afternoon. Inside there was a nice ‘alternative’ feel about the place and music playing included tracks by Wu-Tang Clan and 50 Cent.

At the back of the long cafe, there are glass doors giving views into Brouwerij Ruimtegist.

Sadly, no Ruimtegist beers were available at the cafe counter but a local Verzet by Brouwerij 't Verzet (2.8 euros) was refreshing.