Brussels - June 2025

On Sunday 22 June, after three days in Antwerp, our group caught the same train from the distinguished Antwerpen Centraal station (high level) to Brussels but Keith was the only one with a first class ticket. Staying at different hotels, four got off at Brussels Central while Tim continued to Brussels Midi / Zuid before walking to Hotel Barry via Av. de Stalingrad passing Cafe Bebo.

Our planned afternoon rendezvous at GIST was changed to La Fleur en Papier Dore due to a delayed opening. We were fortunate to find a table in the historic front room of La Fleur en Papier Dore (Het Goudblommeke in Papier). Andrew had the most eventful walk from his hotel with a long detour due to a road closure and a thwarted attempt to steal his smartphone.

Andrew, Simon & Richard

The historic bar is now linked with Brasserie Verschueren and Tim was happy to order a beer he always enjoys at both venues - Verschueren Saison served in a 'Verschu' branded straight glass (€5.20 - 40cl). Drinks are ordered at the bar in the middle 'room'. We found amusement from the handwritten personal notes found in the drawer of our table. It's a picturesque space and occasionally someone would enter from the street to take a photograph.

The European Bar Guide rated La Fleur en Papier Dore as number one in a 2025 Top 100 bars survey.

The bar at GIST with 16 taps and blackboard above with details

A short walk back to GIST which had just opened and initially we sat inside, although the music choice eventually drove us outside to a table in the shade. The two handpumps at the far end were not in use today and it looks like current management is not interested in continuing with cask ale. While we were indoors, two English men came in and asked for a cask ale. One of them was somewhat upset to find that none was available and did not seem to have any interest in the alternative beers available. Although we are CAMRA members we were not sympathetic!

Richard, Keith, Simon & Andrew

The small outside tables have a view of the Jacques Brel statue, which is also a popular spot for a celebrity photo opportunity. It's also on the route for the battery powered open top carriages which have superseded horse drawn carriages for tourist trips with a guide. 

Tim's beer choices here were draught Bertinchamps Framboise (favourite), draught Fee Verte and bottled 'beer of the moment' Joker DIPA Mango both from Brasserie Valduc-Thor a cooperative brewery in Wallonia, near Perwez, between Brussels and Namur. The current tap list for GIST can be found on Untappd as it is a verified venue.

A short walk down Rue du Chene, closeed to most traffic, past a mural leads to Poechenellekelder, just before the Mannekin Pis water feature.

There was a queue at the entrance to the courtyard as all the tables were occupied. A menu was pinnned to the railings. We asked if we could find a table inside and were allowed through to find plenty of free tables including one near the bar. 

Keith, Andrew, Simon and Richard with a cabinet of Mannekin Pis figures behind Keith on the left

We hoped this position might assist with prompt service but this was not the case with most staff wearing t-shirts with Student in large letters on the back. Despite the hot weather we ordered lasagne (€15), except for Keith who ordered spaghetti allowing us his unwanted grated parmesan topping. It was served with bread and butter and needed several minutes to cool. Minutes were precious for Simon who had an evening Eurostar train to catch. Simon would leave first after making a generous contribution towards the total bill as it was only a few days in advance of his birthday.

Tim enjoyed two bottled honey beers on this visit, Barbar Blonde (Lefebvre, €5.80) and Biere de Miel Biologique (Dupont, €6.80). Beer prices are higher than in some places but other factors like the unique decor always make it good value overall. 

Breweriana (& Smurf!) viewed from foot of stairs to the toilets

A seated lifesize puppet figure with a cap monitors the top of the staircase to the toilets below. The student bar staff members may not have the confidence and expertise of the regular staff and like to chat amongst themselves but they do know the trick of pulling on a string behind the bar to make this puppet raise his arm when Andrew passed and touched his hand!

After two hours at Poechenellekelder we moved on to Le Lombard at the corner of Rue du Lombard and Rue du Marche au Charbon.

This time we sat outside with a view of a mural of Victor Sackville, a fictional spy for the UK during WWI, illustrated by Belgian artist Francis Carin.

Tim enjoyed a tall glass of Brugse Zot Blond (€5) here.

After an hour at Le Lombard we headed north east along Rue du Marche au Charbon towards 'Delirium Village', passing Brusaille the 'first comic strip mural, back in 1991' drawn by Frank Pé.

On reaching Impasse de la Fidélité we had a look around Delirium Taphouse which has 27 beers on tap and was not very busy.

The colourful wall of illuminated brewery signs at the back of the Taphouse is an impressive feature.

However, as Keith, Andrew and Richard wanted a change from beer, we headed to Delirium Monasterium with a wider range of drinks and sat at a table just outside, in the busy passageway.

While the others had Pastis and Absinthe, Tim enjoyed Delirium Red (left) and Deliria (right, a special brewed annually for International Women's Day). 

The sweet green beer with a lime flavour (Floris Cactus, 4.2% ABV) was a gift from Keith which the barman let him keep after pouring it for him by mistake. It was noticeable that the staff do a good job at both bars we visited here.

From Delirium Village we went by separate ways to our hotels. 

Tim called in at Cafe Bebo for coffee on Monday morning before his Eurostar train back to London. A good range of draught and bottled beers is also available. The terrace was busier than the high-ceilinged interior on Monday morning after the light rain shower had passed.

Three of these bars (Poechenellekelder, GIST and La Fleur en Papier Dore) were also visited by Tim and friends from the Non Blondes quiz team at The Lion, Newbury, in March 2025. More details and photos are included in the post - A Night in Brussels

By Brussels Bourse

View of the Bourse from interior of Falstaff

The streets around Brussels neoclassical style Bourse are now pedestrianised. As well as Belle Epoque brasseries there are nearby alleyways leading to traditional bars. The Bourse itself is now the home of Belgian Beer World with a rooftop terrace and Beerlab bar which may require a ticket to access.

Brasseries

Falstaff

Dating from 1903, Le Falstaff is situated south-west of the Bourse at Rue Henri Maus 19. The interior is laid with matching tables and chairs. 

There are many mirrors and art nouveau style features including the design of the front windows that overlook the Bourse.

At lunchtime on Monday 10 March, 2025, Falstaff was very quiet and a lone waiter eventually served a 33cl glass of Hoegaarden Blanche with an unrequested lemon slice together with a complimentary bowl of sweet popcorn (€5.50). 

Luckily my reply had been 'small' to his earlier question of normal or small! 

A full menu is served and the beer menu also includes draught Jupiler Pils, Leffe Blond & Brun and Belle-Vue Kriek Classique. All draught beers are available in 50cl and 1 litre measures as well as 'small'. Bottles of Trappist beer are competitively priced e.g Westmalle €4.50, Chimay Bleue €4.80 and Orval €4.80 (March 2025).

Natural light reaches the back of the large room through stained glass windows.

A visit to the toilets downstairs reveals three traditional full height white ceramic urinals and various posters for live music events.

Le Cirio

Founded in 1886, with redesigned decor from 1909, Le Cirio is situated north-east of the Bourse at Rue de la Bourse / Beursstraat 18.

Our group visited on a sunny Friday lunchtime - 7 March 2025. A reasonably priced full menu is available but as we were only visiting for a beer, our waiter directed us to a table in the back part of the large room. Curved mirrors line the walls above bench seating with high backed chairs to match the wooden tables.

Our beer order was mainly bottled Westmalle beers. Westmalle Dubbel, Tripel and Extra were all priced at €4.70 (March 2025). The draught beers include Maes Pils, Blanche du Bruges, Grimbergen Dubbel and Leffe Blonde.

A visit to the toilets will reveal a bank of three full height white ceramic urinals that have served male customers well over the years.

Although Le Falstaff and Le Cirio are very close, unless you are especially interested in comparing their styles immediately, there is an argument for visiting them on different days to gain a better overall experience as the beer range in both is rather limited.

A La Mort Subite

Galeries Royale Saint Hubert

Some distance from the Bourse and approachable via the pedestrianised Rue du Marche au Herbes and the covered arcades of Galeries Royale Saint Hubert, A La Mort Subite can be found at Rue Montagne aux Herbes Potageres 7. Theodore Vossen founded A La Mort Subite in 1928 and gave his brewery the same name.

With a more interesting beer range, a visit here combined well with our previous visit to Le Cirio that had been followed by an al fresco lunch of Belgian beer and frites from Friterie Patatak, Rue de la Bourse 34.

A narrower room than at Falstaff or Le Cirio, but just as deep and again featuring bench seating against the walls with mirrors above.

Memories of unsympathetic waiters were forgotten when our waiter approached in a friendly manner eager to advise us in our chosen language. The menu includes Gueuze sur Lie and Lambic Gueuze but my choice was draught Lambic Blanche (€6.30). Trappist bottles are expensive here e.g. Orval €7.50. As at other bars, the menu specifies that only a single bill will be issued for each table.

Alleyway bars

Sadly, two of the long established alleyway bars near the Bourse and just off Rue du Marche aux Herbes have closed. These traditional small bars: A l'Imaige Nostre-Dame and Au Bon Vieux Temps are found in Impasse des Cadeaux and Impasse Saint-Nicholas respectively. A 2024 blog post features Au Bon Vieux Temps.

A la Becasse

Near the Bourse and in an alley at Rue de Tabora 11, A la Becasse was visited by our group before Le Cirio. The date over the door is 1877. The bird with a long beak in the images is a woodcock.

We picked a table near the bar at the end of the room which has wood panelling on the walls, windows with stained glass, floor tiles, bench seating against walls, high backed chairs and attractive wooden tables with curved edges. The draught beers served in jugs are Timmermans Lambic Doux and Lambic Blanche. I enjoyed a bottle of Timmermans Kriek Lambicus.

Toone & Delirium Cafe etc

We passed (Theatre Royale de) Toone and Delirium Cafe while walking to / from the Bourse. 

Toone, established 1830, has regular puppet theatre shows and also has a bar. It can be approached from an alleyway off Pt Rue des Bouchers at Impasse Schuddeveld 6. 

Delirium Cafe and related bars are in Impasse de la Fidelite which is off Rue des Boucheurs, a pedestrian road with many restaurants that also crosses Galeries Royale Saint Hubert at its midpoint. 

Impasse de la Fidelite is also the location for Jeanneke Pis, a female version of the more famous Mannekin Pis water feature.

A night in Brussels

 

Grand Place

Which five bars would you choose for a first night in Brussels? My plan for our group of five beer enthusiasts from Newbury was to start at Gist and then visit La Fleur en Papier Dore / Het Goudblommeke in Papier and Poechenellekelder and include previously unvisited La Porte Noire and Goupil le Fol, if time permitted.

Thursday 6 March 2025 was a day when President Zelensky visited Brussels to meet with European leaders. This resulted in delays to the 95 bus from the 'Science' stop on Rue du Midi at Square de Meeus, near our Adagio Aparthotel Access Brussels Europe base, to it's destination near Grand Place. However our bus was allowed to pass through the police checkpoint in Place Royale and then downhill to the stop in Rue du Lombard.

A short 150 metre walk brought us to GIST and a sign pinned to the door advising of delayed opening until 7pm (just after 'Happy Hour' that had been part of the original plan). 

La Fleur en Papier Dore

However, it's only 200 metres further to La Fleur en Papier Dore / Het Goudblommeke in Papier and we soon had a well sited table having ordered 40cl glasses of Verschueren Saison (De Ranke) at the bar.

With an interesting heritage and ranked winner of the 2025 Top 100 bars in Europe for European Bar Guide, it was delightful in many ways and is a 'must visit' bar in Brussels. Rich picked it as his favourite of the 18 bars we would visit during this long weekend trip.

Before leaving we enjoyed another beer from the limited menu with Tripel Verschueren (de la Senne) as my choice.

La Porte Noire

Only a few metres further up Rue des Alexiens is the entrance to La Porte Noire. Beyond a red curtain are steps down to the vaulted cellar bar which was empty when we arrived.

Service and payment is at the bar.

A blackboard at the side and individual blackboards above the bar give details of all the draught beers available including Troubadour Magma (The Musketeers) and Noir de Dottignies (De Ranke). 

To simplify the order we ordered a round of Zinnebir (de la Senne) with a 25cl class costing €3.80. By this time another group of customers had arrived. The draught beer range offers a good mixture and also includes Kasteel Rouge and VI Wheat (Jandrain-Jandrenouille) as well as several Blonde and Pils options. 

After La Porte Noire's opening time (6pm) it makes sense to combine a visit with one to La Fleur en Papier Dore as they are so close to each other and to a bus stop, where the 95 back stops on its return journey to Wiener via Science on Rue du Luxembourg.

GIST

GIST was open after we retraced our steps. From a wide choice of free tables we chose one facing the bar. The blackboard above the bar listed available beers. Two handpumps are a feature here but no beer was being served from them today.

Jeff took advantage of the opportunity to try draught Westmalle Duo, a limited edition Trappist draught beer.

Tim chose L'Amoureux #01 (Brasserie l'Ermitage), a 5% ABV hazy Pale Ale brewed in Brussels with hops mainly from the southern hemisphere. A 25cl serving cost €4.50.

GIST - Rich, Pat, Jeff and Mike (+ Tim on right of mirror!)

Rich had chosen Rabarberlambiek (Oud Beersel). According to the Non Blondes quiz team tradition, it was Rich who supplied our table with three assorted packets of crisps, to accompany our beers. This tradition continues at The Lion, Newbury on Thursday (quiz) nights while Kieran marks the first three rounds.

The rhubarb Lambic was one of the six Oud Beersel Lambics available on tap, sourced from Beersel, 10kms south of Brussels.

Beer lovers can rely on GIST to serve an interesting range of local beers. Usually there is also some good music playing but regrettably this evening's music selection did not meet that standard.

Poechenellekelder

A short downhill walk brought us to Poechenellekelder, close to Mannekin Pis, where we found the small boy was not in a special costume for this evening.

The blackboard outside the entrance listed the draught beers as St Feuillien, Rock 'n' Carol and Taras Boulba. At tables inside, large format menus list all the beers and a limited range of snacks and pasta based meals.

As always, the puppet based decor, was of interest. This time our spaghetti and lasagne dishes were served without much delay. 

We each ended up drinking two beers here and these included Orval, Rochefort 6, VanderGhinste Roodbruin, Rock 'n' Carol (Janine Boulangerie-Brasserie brewed at L'Annexe using unsold bread) and Lindemans Faro. The bill came to €25.50 per head before any tip.

Goupil le Fol

We decided there was time to visit a fifth bar on our first night in Brussels and headed up Rue de l'Etuve for a view of the Grand Place illuminated at night (top photo) and then back to Goupil le Fol at Rue de la Violette 22, usually open daily from 4pm to 2am.

The small bar is situated just inside the entrance, and drinks are ordered and paid for, preferably with cash, before finding a free table inside the dimly lit room with various styles of furniture.

Our table in the main room looked towards the side of the bar and a spiral staircase of metal plates leading to another room on the first floor.

French chansons were playing on the impressive juke box giving the bar a nostalgic atmosphere.

The musical theme is also featured in the selection of records and record sleeves displayed overhead.

A limited range of beers was available and our choices included Lutgarde Blonde and Lutgarde Blanche served from the bottle. The brewery was formed in 2017 and based at Abbaye d'Aywiers, once the home of Sainte-Lutgarde (1182-1246).

Leaving the lively bar before midnight, we were able to catch a 95 bus from the Mannekin-Pis stop on Rue du Midi back up the hill to Rue du Luxembourg, to conclude a good first night out in Brussels.