Brussels (South) - Monday 25 March 2019

Occasional rain showers and a cold wind did not deter us from exploring Ixelles and Saint Gilles neighbourhoods on our final day in Brussels.

Church of the Holy Trinity at west end of Rue du Bailli

We caught tram 81 from Bara stop, near Brussels Midi to Flagey in Ixelles district.The route involved a climb up to Saint Gilles and then an eastward level stretch before dipping down to Flagey Square at the top end of the Ixelles ponds.

The former National Institute for Radio Broadcasting (NIR) building on the south of the square was renamed Flagey in 2002. The art deco building known as the steamboat was designed by Joseph Diongre and built during 1935-38 to include sound studios and a concert hall. Nowadays the building includes cafes and bars near the public entrance.

It was too windy to walk around the ponds so we just looked at the varied buildings overlooking the north end of the ponds and spotted some blossom. We then headed west, back up the hill, towards Avenue Louise, in search of buildings designed by Victor Horta in his distinctive Art Nouveau style.

Hotel Solvay / Solvay Townhouse (Avenue Louise 224) was completed in 1900 for industrialist Armand Solvay.

400 metres to the north west is Hotel Tassel / Tassel Townhouse (6, Rue Paul-Emile Janson) completed in 1894.

It was time for a beer and seeing lights on at RamDam, behind the Church of the Holy Trinity, we went inside only to be told that the bar was closed. A visit after 4pm is recommended if you want to find the bar open, as mentioned in CAMRA's Good Beer Guide Belgium.

The nearby Horta Museum (25, Rue Américaine) is closed on Mondays but there is plenty of detail on the exterior frontage to enjoy for free.

Victor Horta's house and studio were built between 1898 - 1901.

A short walk passing Janson tram stop led to La Belladone in Rue Moris.
The shutters were up and although we were too early for the 6pm opening time at least there was a chance to view the stylish copper plated bar through the left window.

CAMRA's Good Beer Guide Belgium describes La Belladone as an 'excellent, mellow, candlelit Art Nouveau cafe'.

Across the road at the junction with Rue d'Espagne we finally found a cafe bar that was open on a Monday lunchtime. Inside Cafe Amara we had a choice of tables and picked the sunny side.

While Simon adopted my suggestion of Orval as a Trappist beer to start the day with I opted for a refreshing 2.5% ABV Lindemans Pecheresse 'born of a fling between a Lambic and peach juice'.

The constant sound of the tall fridge next to my seat in a far corner reduced the impact of the pop songs playing on the bar's sound system.

Leaving at 1.15pm the walk to Brasserie de l'Union was downhill all the way. The photo (above) of Place Louis Morichar shows the typical gradient and the dark clouds that threatened rain.

We arrived at Brasserie de l'Union when nearly all the tables insede were busy with luncthime diners. We found a small table free next to a couple with a sleeping baby in a carrier draped with thin fabric.

Simon had his back to the wall but I had a clear view of the menu on the high blackboard and the 'beer suggestions' on a low blackboard. We had plenty of time to decide before the waiter arrived. The explanation of soup of the day was not in recognisable English but was my choice anyway while Simon ordered a 'petit' lasagne.

Only two of the locally brewed L'Annexe beers on the blackboard were available so Simon ordered Saison de Bruxelles and I had L'Union (Saison Edition Speciale). Both Saisons were 6% ABV and cost 3.50 euros.

The brewery is named after the building where they brew - L'Annexe of the Van der Kelen school at Rue du Metal, 19. With no taproom at the brewery, Brasserie de L'Union is a good alternative place to sample these beers.
By 2pm most of the diners had departed and this appeared to be the sign to switch on the sound system for some background music.

While paying the bill at the bar counter there was an opportunity to get a photo of the tall beer fridge to show some of the bottled beers available at Brasserie de L'Union.

By now it was 2.45pm and we had time for one more drink before heading to Brussels Midi for the 16.58 Eurostar train back to London. We walked along the pedestrianised Marche du Parvis de Saint-Gilles and were tempted by Brasserie Egalite but instead entered Cafe Maison du Peuple.

Inside the historic building, which dates from 1917, many of the tables near the front windows were occupied by people with laptops. While Simon enjoyed draught Brussels Beer Project Delta IPA it was coffee time for me. Seven other beers are available in bottles including De Ranke XX Bitter.

The large space is well suited to music events and there is a low stage at the back of the room with an idyllic mural behind. When the stage is not in use there are large sofas on it. The music playing on the sound system included Van Morrison's Cypress Avenue (more than once).
Simon's suggestion of catching the Metro back to Lemonnier to collect luggage from the hotel was a good idea as the pavements were wet from recent rain when we emerged.

There was time to stock up with some bottles from Carrefour Express inside Brussels Midi station before joining the short queue for security checks at the 'Channel Terminal' prior to boarding the Eurostar back to London.