Antwerp 2023 - Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie revisit

In the early afternoon of Friday 30 June 2023, Tim and friends including Mark and Les (above) arrived at the impressive brewery, taproom and courtyard of Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie at Indiestraat 21 in Antwerp's docklands north of the city centre.

This was after first visits to Gaarkeuken 110 and the nearby Taverne t'Kerkschip, described in a separate post: Antwerp 2023 - first visits.

Selfie photo: Les M with L to R: Les, Mark, David, Tim, Simon & Graham

Mark was in his element on this visit to Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie. Having purchased a red Seef Bier cap for himself, he would treat us all to the delightful taste of the limited edition 10% ABV AnniverSeef JubileumBier in elegant glasses served from a 75cl bottle.

From our courtyard table we noticed that brewery owner Johan Van Dyck was being interviewed at the table on the other side of the entrance ramp and Tim approached him after the interview to present the latest issue of West Berkshire CAMRA Ullage magazine. With his typical enthusiastic and generous nature, Johan came over to our table for a chat. 

He mentioned that the Anniverseef is a one off beer made with a first fermentation using Seef yeast, a second fermentation still in the tank with added sugar and champagne yeast and then a third fermentation in the bottle with champagne yeast. 

Martin's Pale Ale

a previous version of Martin's Pale Ale 2018 

Johan talked about Martin's Pale Ale, a classic pale ale whose origins lie with an English family that moved to Antwerp at the beginning of the 1900s. However it was first brewed in England and later in different parts of Belgium with the recipe changing over the years. Now it has been brought 'home' to Antwerp with Martin's Pale Ale now brewed at Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie. The Anthony Martin website gives details of many beers from its breweries including the latest Martin's Pale Ale.

Johan enlisted help from award winning home brewer Keith Moore in Germany and beer author Ron Pattinson in Amsterdam two years ago before finalising the brewing recipe which includes UK sourced East Kent Goldings and Fuggles hops. Keith sent him several different bottles of typical English pale ales available in Germany. Ron sent Johan details of English pale ales that were exported to Belgium and the recipe for the pale ale that Whitbread once exported to Belgium using his extensive brewing history resources.

Johan said 'Our dream is to make the Antwerp beer scene vibrant and alive again'.

Radio Minerva Tripel

Johan also explained that Radio Minerva (Tripel) is named after 40 year old Radio Minerva a popular Antwerp based radio station which has older volunteer presenters and plays music from earlier eras. Radio Minerva helped with publicity when Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie was crowdfunding to build its brewery. When Radio Minerva looked for a way to celebrate it's anniversary, the Tripel was brewed to also help with funding the radio station. It's popularity led to it becoming a permanent beer and it has won gold awards including Frankfurt International Trophy 2023 and European Beer Challenge 2023.

Belgian Beer Brothers describe the history of Minerva Tripel before a tasting of the beer in a YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04M2e8yBP2E 

ABC Taproom and Brewery

After checking his phone to confirm the time of his next appointment, Johan invited our group to join him on an impromptu brewery tour in the time remaining.

Only a chain separates the brewery from the taproom.

Johan explained that the brewery capacity has increased since 2020 and is controlled by an automated system that can be accessed remotely.

Many thanks to Johan for the interesting tour of Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie. His enthusiasm and dedication to the Antwerp beer scene is admirable.

Keith Moore

Heiko Müller & Keith Moore  (photo: HM)

Johan had mentioned meeting our brewer friend Keith Moore, also mentioned above, a week earlier when he visited Antwerp to meet Richard and Andrew at the 22nd Beer Passion Weekend festival. 

As one of the original crowdfunders for Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie since first meeting Johan in 2016, Keith's name is on the founder's plaque inside the brewery.

Keith has won several hobby brewer contests in Germany including Mainz craft beer festival prize for home brewers. His 2016 winner was a Black IPA based on a Cascadian dark ale recipe. The 2018 summer beer style contest was won by his Entdeckung (Discovery), based on the beer once brewed by Fuller's. Keith won first place in the Sour Beers category for his Langener Gose in the competition for the 2020 Hobby Brew / HeimBrau Convention.

The photo below the heading from the March 2023 Hobby Brew / HeimBrau Convention in Romrod, near Marburg, shows Keith Moore with the silver award for his low alcohol Ruby Light Dark Mild (2.2% ABV) and Heiko Müller with the silver award for his 39 Days Saison.

Antwerp 2023 - revisits

On my sixth visit to Antwerp (Thursday 29 June to Sunday 2 July 2023) and the first not coinciding with Beer Passion Weekend festival, there was time to revisit seven favourite bars in addition to those visited for the first time (Antwerp 2023 - first visits).

Cafe Kulminator

As it was near Hostel Pulcinella, our group managed three visits to Kulminator but I missed the third visit in order to meet up with Paul and Jennie in De Vagant on Saturday. Groups and tourists are not usually welcome at Kulminator and Dirk in his gatekeeper role must hear the words 'taste', 'cash' and 'euros' before considering admittance. Despite his age, the bright red frame of Dirk's spectacles made him look rather intimidating as he surveyed us on the pavement from his elevated position inside!

On our first visit, David fluffed his lines and said 'sample' instead of 'taste' but eventually the door was opened for us after assurance that we could pay for our drinks with cash (euros).

L to R: Paul R, Graham, Les, Simon, David, Tim & Mark. Photo: Jennie R

Paul and Jennie needed to point to our group, sat near the window, in order to gain admission after our earlier arrival on the Friday!

Leen served the beers for our group including Gueuze for Graham using the traditional method.

Although the classical music and traditions of the legendary Kulminator may not appeal to all, the price list has not been updated for several years resulting in better value than ever!

Tim enjoyed a total of three beers on his two visits with the 75cl bottle of St Feuillien Saison shared. The third beer was draught Gouden Carolus Cuvee van de Keizer Whisky Infused 2022 brewed in Mechelen by Het Anker.

De Vagant

In 2022, Tim had visited an updated De Vagant with a group to honour the late John Reynor with beers and jenevers served by Bart Daems, the new manager. On Saturday 1 July this year, Bart was wearing a Heino t-shirt and posed with the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine opened at the page with a story and photos from that day including John at top left of page in photo below.

This was Paul and Jennie's first visit to Antwerp and it was nice to meet up with them again here while the others were at Kulminator for the third afternoon running.

Tim enjoyed a draught Cherry Chouffe on this visit.

De Ware Jacob

It was only a short walk down Reyndersstraat and Vlasmarkt to reach De Ware Jacob.

The excellent draught range here includes (Tim's choice) Brasserie Dupont Avec les Bon Voeux (9.5% ABV), Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie Seef and St Barnardus Abt 12 (10% ABV). Although there was a table free outside we preferred to enjoy the surroundings of the compact room with its wood panelling, inlaid mirrors and traditional bar furniture.

Guy the owner was not around but Tim asked Dafne to pass on the autumn 2022 issue of Ullage which includes a mention of his previous visit.

Het Souke

Photo: Mark G. L to R: Tim, Les, Graham, David, Paul, Jennie, Simon

Tim was keen to revisit Het Souke after a first visit in 2022 when he met owner Jacob Gouka and enjoyed the music at the cafe on the corner of pedestrianised Hoogstraat and narrow HH Geeststraat.

This was the first time the whole group came together on the Thursday with Les, the last to arrive c/o FlixBus, now able to enjoy his first beer.

The five draught beers are Stella Artois, Bolleke, Seef, Val Dieu Cuvee and Tripel d'Anvers. 

There are 24 bottles including Trappist beers, Minerva and Bootjes Biers from Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and Tripppel and Blackout from Swiekes bv established in 2020 at Oud Turnhout, east of Antwerp.

Tim gave Jacob the autumn 2022 Ullage magazine which includes an article with his 2022 photos from Het Souk. James posed for a photo holding the relevant page open while resting his left arm in plaster on the shoulder of Maximilian - his 'best coworker yet'.

Paters Vaetje

We enjoyed simple meals like lasagne from the limited menu for the small kitchen next to the bar at Paters Vaetje on the Saturday evening. This reliable beer bar is easy to find as it faces the north west corner of the cathedral near the ground level Nello & Patrasche marble sculpture. Tim's beer selection was draught Brouwerij The Musketeers 'Joyride in a Shopping Cart' a 6.5% ABV honey ale from the brewery's Bucket List series of limited edition beers (4.10 euros). 

Oud Arsenaal

Tim and David's last beer in Antwerp on the Sunday would be at Oud Arsenaal on the way to Antwerp Centraal station for the train to Brussels. We were both keen to revisit this brown cafe with its interior dating from the 1920s. Regula Ysewijn mentions in Belgian Cafe Culture that it is one of the few cafes in Antwerp that is still run by the same family that started the business.

Every table inside was occupied when we arrived but we shared a table and then gained some elbow room as a lady next to us kindly moved to a vacant seat on the other side of her window table, to face her friend.

Tim was delighted with the draught hazy Seef bier which may become his beer of choice on future visits to Antwerp where it is widely available.

David noticed that the young man serving our drinks resembled the current owner and was able to confirm that he was indeed the son and so the tradition continues.

Oud Arsenaal is close to the busy weekend market in Theaterplein so a weekday visit may be more suitable for anyone looking for a quiet spot during the day. 

Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie

Revisiting Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and a meeting with Johan Van Dyck deserves a separate blog post to do it justice. Watch this space!

Huddersfield & Linthwaite

Harold Wilson outside Huddersfield station

The group of CAMRA members from the South had split on Thursday 19 January with the majority on a visit to York, Knaresborough and Harrogate led by Tony Lea. 

Tim Thomas joined the smaller group of five on the 10.47 Transpennine Express slow service to Huddersfield from platform 13B of Leeds station.

On a cold day with blue skies, Huddersfield station forecourt, was frostier than on Tuesday's visit when it had been our first stop on the Transpennine Real Ale Trail.

Tim arranged to meet the group at the Sportsman later and headed to Huddersfield Library and Art Gallery while the others first revisited the King's Head. 

The Art Gallery with its permanent collection of 700 paintings was closed but a temporary exhibition space in the building opposite showed an impressive collection of artworks for 'Entwined' (plants in contemporary painting) and by Richard Baker, making a visit worthwhile.

It was noted that the Samuel Smith's pub - The Commercial Hotel - was closed with curtains drawn.

The Cherry Tree (Wetherspoon), near the station, was open but not visited on this occasion.

The Sportsman

There are two entrances to the Sportsman, one at the corner and one with a Bass barrel above the door.

At the corner entrance the floor has an Art Deco design and there is an inner door leading to the main bar.

Inside, the bar is in a corner position with a curved front topped with ten handpumps offering eight cask ales including a porter and a stout from Thornbridge Brewery. 

Standing at the bar you can see through to another room and in the other direction a stove in the fireplace and many CAMRA award certificates including Huddersfield CAMRA Pub of the Year 2011, 2012 & 2013.

Phil Wildsmith, Graham Porter, John Yeates and Denis Rahilly at the Sportsman

Tim found the group in a room to the left of the side entrance with another fireplace, two solid looking long tables and framed architectural plans on the wall.

A visit to the Gents on a quiet day provided the opportunity to photograph the colourful thematic tile panels without any embarrassment!

The Sportsman is listed in CAMRA's inventory of historic pub interiors.

Tim's beer choices in his new favourite Huddersfield pub: Brew York - X-Panda (£4 pint) and North Riding Brewery - Mosaic Pale (£2 half pint) which was full of flavour. An interesting selection of mellow music was played. 

The original plan had been to visit other pubs in Huddersfield but with several not opening until 4pm we decided instead to catch a bus to Slaithwaite and visit The Commercial, a pub on the Transpennine Real Ale trail and near Slaithwaite station. This required a careful walk on icy pavements back towards Huddersfield station, passing the statue of Harold Wilson, and then up St Georges Street to approach the bus station entrance. 

view towards Slaithwaite from 181 bus at Manchester Road, Linthwaite

After a frustrating wait for a driver, the 181 bus to Wilberlee pulled up to platform M. On the edge of town, the inexperienced driver exclaimed 'Where am I going' after taking a wrong turn to pass the Rat and Ratchet requiring a further delay before returning to the route via Manchester Road (A62). The passenger who had got up and walked forward to offer advice was loudly instructed to 'Sit down'.

A few miles before our destination on the 'high route' to Slaithwaite, Tim spotted a Linthwaite sign and remembered this as the location of the famed Sair Inn.

view from Slaithwaite bus stop with Huddersfield Narrow Canal

After our visit to The Commercial in Slaithwaite, described at the end of the Transpennine Real Ale Trail post, Tim caught a 181 bus back to Linthwaite church while the others walked to the Shoulder of Mutton and Hideaway Craft House in Slaithwaite. The Grove, near Huddersfield bus station, would be our rendezvous.

The Sair Inn

Tommy Lane, Linthwaite

Tim had been warned that the steep road to the Sair Inn might be too icy for safety but in fact Tommy Lane had been gritted and only a short stretch was still icy.

Now glad that he had ignored the warning, this would be Tim's first visit to the famed Sair Inn.

Inside, there was still an array of handpumps with many of the Linfit Brewery beers brewed in an outhouse of the pub. However, as there was a Sair Inn Facebook post on 7 December 2022 about the 'hopefully temporary' brewery closure of Linfit Brewery, these handpumps will be serving beers from other breweries in future.

The decoration includes an historic CAMRA mirror and there are unusual wall lamp fittings.

Tim sat at the bar end of the main room with a coal fire and a photo of the 'Late but very great' Ron Crabtree, the 'pioneer' of Linfit brewery, on the wall. The occupant of the next table, facing the fire, sat quietly there until his pint and a packet of crisps were finished before leaving.

While the pub wasn't busy the opportunity was taken to photograph other areas of the pub. The grandfather clock in the darts room is also seen reflected in the mirror above the fireplace. John Lennon and Jimi Hendrix are on the wall to the right of the clock and a local connection is that Jimi is also featured in the pub sign for the King's Head at Huddersfield station.

The Sair Inn has won many CAMRA awards over the years including National Pub of the Year 1997.

Arriving at 4pm and leaving after 5pm in mid January and sitting in a north-west facing room in an elevated position provided a nice sequence of changing views as the sun went down.

The sound quality from the jukebox system was noticeably better than music heard in most pubs. It may have been on free play but to hear 5 songs played for £1 still seemed good value. After some page turning, the tracks selected included some favourite classics: Deacon Blue - Dignity; Tom Petty - American Girl; Van Morrison - Brown Eyed Girl; Kinks - Autumn Almanac; James Taylor - Sweet Baby James and Beautiful South - A Little Time.

The Sair Inn joins Tim's list of favourite pubs that more than repay the effort to visit them. In his own local area, The Bell Inn, Aldworth is another of these favourites which benefits from a microbrewery run by the son of the landlord in an outhouse - Aldworth Brewing Company. The Bell Inn is also a past CAMRA National Pub of the Year winner.

Tim's beer choices: (after recommendation from the bar as a popular choice) Linfit Brewery - Gold Medal (£3.50 pint) & Linfit Brewery - Citra (£1.65 half pint).

Before catching the (late) 181 bus for Huddersfield, Tim stopped to take a photo of the north west evening sky which shows faintly the red lights on the twin 158 metre high steel towers of Moorside Edge transmitting station at Pole Moor, north of Slaithwaite, which are used for medium wave broadcasts of BBC Radio 5 Live (909 kHz). 

Due to a traffic accident closing the road at nearby Cowlersley, the 181 bus was significantly delayed while an alternative route was authorised.

The Grove

It would not be until 6.30pm when Tim finally spotted the illuminated green signs for The Grove, when passing the older (1848) of the two circular brick ventilation shafts for Springwood Tunnel. The parallel railway tunnels run south west from Huddersfield railway station, almost directly underneath the Grove.

There are a total of 20 handpumps on two counters of the central bar which serves the two rooms closest to the corner entrance to the pub. However, not all were in use as 'only 11' cask ales were listed on the boards!

Tim rejoined the group in a room towards the back of the pub with luxurious seating and adjacent historic gig posters on a white wall. Otherwise the decoration is as quirky as in other areas with the animal theme extending to skulls, antlers and skins as well as a padlocked cupboard of taxidermy. This decor and the bright green walls in other areas may not appeal to everyone but makes the Grove unique and memorable.

A low table has CAMRA magazines next to shelves with board games and the range was expanded with the addition of some recent Ullage magazines from West Berkshire.

There have certainly been a lot of changes at The Grove since Tim's previous visit. Tim's Huddersfield, Batley and Leeds visit post includes photos of The Grove, The Sportsman and the King's Head in January 2013.

Tim's beer choice (recommended by the group): Vocation Brewery - Naughty & Nice Coconut Milk & Chocolate Stout (£2.35 half pint).

John and Phil discussed a possible visit to their favourite Indian restaurant near Huddersfield station -  Lala's but when a check was made to find details of trains back to Leeds it revealed that many Transpennine Express trains had been cancelled and to avoid being stranded in Huddersfield later, it was decided to catch a stopping train back to Leeds originating from Huddersfield that would not be overcrowded in these circumstances, arriving back in Leeds about 9pm.

John and Phil went for an Indian meal to newly opened Delhi Wala, in a railway arch on Bishopsgate Street, just outside the station and a stone's throw from the Head of Steam at the foot of Mill Hill. Tim and Denis went to Beckett's Bank in Park Row, a short walk from the north exit from Leeds station. Unfortunately, somehow we had lost Graham en route.