Lier, Flanders - 2024

Our group of friends was in Antwerp from 20-23 June primarily to support Beer Passion / Bierpassie Weekend in Groenplaats but we also had time to visit Lier and the Zimmer tower on the Friday, when it rained for most of the day.

The trip started with a short train journey from Antwerp's magnificent Central station - Antwerpen-Centraal. Lierre / Lier is well served by around five trains an hour from Antwerp, taking about 16 minutes and costing 3.60 euros for a single journey.

There were no buses running from the station on the outskirts to the centre of Lier due to road closures for the annual Lier Feest festival. Alternative routes to reach the Zimmer tower are to follow a wide tree-lined path that follows the base of the old city walls next to a river or to follow Antwerpsestraat to the Grote Markt and its imposing Stadhuis (Town hall).

Het Belofte Land

Having travelled by separate trains from Anwerp and routes from Lier station we met up inside Cafe Het Belofte Land at Begijnhofstraat 7.

Tim found Andrew, Richard and Simon in the raised level around a table in the furthest corner of the cafe. Lisbeth, looked after serving our beers and tempted us to order spaghetti dishes, which the cafe is known for, but it was too early in the day for us to have a meal.

Keen to try the first in the new Juicy range of beers from Mort Subite, Tim ordered Crime of Passion from the tap.

The others were drinking draught Hapkin 'a strong blond beer with subtle fruitiness', now brewed by Alken-Maes. Our second beer order was a mirror of the first order so we all enjoyed one of each.

Now dry, warm and refreshed we departed for a walk around the traditional cobbled streets of Lier's sizeable Begijnhof / Beguinage, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1998, with St Margaret's church as its centre. Thankfully the rain had eased by now.

The Zimmer tower, museum and cafe is located beyond the north east boundary of the Begijnhof. The astronomical Jubilee clock built by Louis Zimmer (1888-1970) with 13 different dials is on the tower's front facade. A visit to the museum and the inside of the tower is recommended (5 euros).

Sint-Gummarus

Sint-Gummarus has an enviable location, 100 metres at F. Timmermansplein 2, north east of the Zimmer tower and fronting onto the river with plenty of space for outside tables. 

There are ten draught beers and Tim took his glass of Cherry Chouffe to a table opposite the bar with many interesting signs, pictures and a league table on the wall. Perhaps the incongruous brightly coloured bar stool seats appeal to younger generations? 

Cafe In de Gloria Lier

Cafe In de Gloria Lier is located just around the next corner, near Hoogbrug, at Grote Markt 2. 

Tim rejoined the others at this high-ceilinged cafe and ordered a glass of Liefmans Peach beer (3.8% ABV). 

Decorated with bunting and inflatable devil fork in colours of the Belgian flag, presumably for Euro 2024, the permanent items on display in the cafe include an old clock and radio, a portrait of James Dean and a Bass Pale Ale mirror. 

Cafe Rene

Following a recommendation based on it's range of beers, Cafe Rene at Zimmerplein 11, was our final stop in Lier.

Inside the decor is contemporary with plenty of pale wood. 

Tim's beer choice here was Viswijf from Brouwerij Vissenberg, founded in 2013, now with an address in Vremde, between Antwerp and Lier. 

Now it was time for something to eat. It was nice to find that a Croque Monsieur is served on a plate with paper cups of mayonnaise, ketchup and small pickled onions.

Determined to save money on the ride back to Antwerp for the first evening of Bierpassie weekend in Groenplaats, Tim followed the tree-lined path to find a bus stop across the river and outside the centre.

This journey involved catching a bus part way and then changing onto a tram, both operated by De Lijn and only costing a single one hour charge of 1.70 euros on his 10-rittenkaart (10 rides ticket). 

With a delay on the tram due to a track issue, it would be some time later before Tim caught up with the others near the tent where Ben Vinken (seated right 'the original Belgian beer sommelier') is on hand to greet customers at Bierpassie Weekend.

Although senior in age to Richard and Simon, Tim was the junior of our group in terms of number of visits to Antwerp for Bierpassie Weekend. It was rewarding to hear that his proposal of a trip to Lier had been highly valued by all and that a return visit to the town was anticipated in future, hopefully on a dry day!

Antwerp - revisits - June 2024

Simon, Andrew and Richard at Antwerpse Brouw Co (ABC)

On my eighth visit to Antwerp (Thursday 20 June to Sunday 23 June 2024) to allow a seventh visit to Beer Passion Weekend festival, there was time to revisit several favourite bars in addition to those visited for the first time (Antwerp first visits - June 2024).

This post will follow a top down order from the key in the rough map above starting with Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie taproom. The top photo shows Simon and Andrew both wearing their decades old Bierpassie Weekend t-shirts on Saturday 22 June. I joined them in the courtyard, seated near a wedding party, after my first visit to 't Licht der Dokken and the viewing tower at Red Star Line museum. 

When there was a rain shower we moved inside to a raised corner of the taproom near the fermentation vessels and a view of the bar. I enjoyed a 33cl glass of Cheerio!, a limited edition 8% abv Tripel beer aged on natural fruit (raspberries, blackberries and sweet cherries (5 euros).

At the end of this post, the chart above showing posts about previous visits to Antwerp bars, provides blog post weblinks for more photos and descriptions of all the bars revisited.

Bar Paniek

Enjoying a quayside location, Bar Paniek is in the corner of a warehouse building now used as a workshop housing a fascinating collection of industrial equipment and products.

Classic tunes playing here included All Along the Watchtower (Jimi Hendrix) and appropriately Sitting on the Dock of the Bay (Otis Redding).  

Curved staircases lead to a mezzanine level above the bar. Many tables have games boards on them and pinball and darts can be played. The basic toilet facilities are accessed from outside. 

Dr Beer

The next Saturday afternoon visit was to Dr. Beer where we met up again with (L to R) Jennie, Paul and Linda. There was a long table against the far wall, beyond the bar, where we could sit together.

One of the many distinctive features of this cosy bar is that 500ml measures of beer are served in clinical measuring jugs!

Tim's 500ml jug of Johannes De Weize II brewed by Dok Brewing Co (Gent), served from tap 6, cost 8.40 euros. We ordered some late lunchtime food here e.g Croque Monsieur. Andrew treated us to a taste of his hot edamame beans. Tim met Jeroen Peeters, the owner, on his March 2024 visit so was glad to have another chat with him before we left. Jeroen had explained that at busy times only a single bill for a group can be paid by card but on this occasion he was able to accept two separate payments to accommodate us.

Dr Beer is a verified venue for Untappd allowing current beers on tap to be checked in advance.

Our subsequent visit to 't Waagstuk features in  the Antwerp - first visits June 2024 blog post.

The Northerner

We ended up at The Northerner on Friday 21 June after a day in Lier and and an evening at the Bierpassie Weekend festival in Groenplaats. It was the night of the Netherlands v France Euro 2024 football match and, unsurprisingly as we were in Flanders, the bar was crowded with Dutch supporters both inside and outside. Without hesitating, Simon weaved his way to the bar and emerged with a tray of Saison Dupont for us and we stood outside drinking until the match ended and there was space for us to go inside and sit down.

The bar emptied out later and there was a chance to get a photo showing the wheelback chairs, dark floor tiles and relatively low ceiling. I remembered it as a bigger space but in fact it is rather compact.

After midnight, Andrew fetched our table another round of drinks including a draught Brussels Beer Project Juice Junkie IPA for me, served in a stemmed glass (4.20 euros). As closing time approached the change in the music encouraged us to drink up although all the other chairs were stacked away before we actually left, without needing any direct requests to do so.

The Northerner is also an Untappd verified venue.

Jazzcafe De Muze

Having enjoyed two visits to De Muze in March, Tim was able to persuade the group to visit at the end of our first evening in Antwerp. It's located at Melkmarkt 15, just across the street from De Pelikaan.

Our table, in the 'tram compartment', between high backed wooden seats gave a side view of the stage and we particularly appreciated the trumpet player's musical abilities. Admission is free but there's an extra 50 cents per drink once the music starts.

Paters Vaetje

Paters Vaetje has a small frontage with a red canopy in Blauwmoezelstraat on the other side of the cathedral from Groenplaats.

Soon after arriving on Thursday evening, I met up with Andrew and Richards at a ground floor table near the entrance and enjoyed the familiarity of returning to an often visited bar where the service is always friendly. Simon would join us after a delay to watch the England v Denmark Euro 2024 match on a TV in a bar near Brussels Midi station. On this occasion we put the small kitchen to the test and enjoyed dishes of lasagne served in the pot or spaghetti bolognaise with parmesan cheese.

As tradition dictates, Tim's first beer in Antwerp was a draught Bolleke De Koninck.

De Ware Jacob

De Ware Jacob is an authentic traditional cafe bar featured in Belgian Cafe Culture by Regula Ysewijn. It's high on Tim's list for revisiting as the small range of draught beers includes Avec Les Bons Voeux from Brasserie Dupont (9.5% ABV). The menu includes a range of local beers on the first page. One can be sure of good service from Guy Dockx or his staff here.

Het Souke

Nearby, on a corner of pedestrianised Hoogstraat, is Het Souke, another of Tim's favourites now run by Jacob Gouka and also featured in the Belgian Cafe Culture book but under its previous ownership as 't Half Souke. Although it was initially empty inside there were customers outside and it would later fill up inside after the Belgium v Romania Euro 2024 game ended (2-0).

There are 5 draught beers and the bottled beer range is on display at the bar as well as being listed in the beer menu. Tim's freshly poured draught Val-Dieu is also on the bar in this photo. 

De Vagant

Another essential revisit, De Vagant was Tim's last bar of the day on Saturday after Het Souke and now after midnight! Cherry Chouffe on draught was an easy choice here. Owner Bart Daems can be seen behind the bar and a row of Jenever bottles.

Weblinks for blog posts  about previous visits to these bars

Name                         Blog link                                                         No of photos

Antwerpse Brouw Co https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2024/03/antwerp-spring-2024.html                         1

Antwerpse Brouw Co https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/07/antwerp-friday-28-june-2019.html                 5

Antwerpse Brouw Co https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2016/07/antwerp-2-seef-bier.html                         3

Antwerpse Brouw Co https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2018/07/antwerp-saturday-2362018.html                         8

Antwerpse Brouw Co https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2023/07/ABCrevisit.html                                         6

De Muze         https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2024/03/antwerp-spring-2024.html                         4

De Vagant https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2023/07/antwerp-2023-revisits.html                                 3

De Vagant https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2022/07/Antwerp-2022-Hoogstraat.html                         6

De Vagant https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2024/03/antwerp-spring-2024.html                         1

De Ware Jacob https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/07/antwerp-thursday-27-june-2019.html                 3

De Ware Jacob https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2022/07/Antwerp-2022-Hoogstraat.html                         9

De Ware Jacob https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2023/07/antwerp-2023-revisits.html                                 3

De Ware Jacob https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2024/03/antwerp-spring-2024.html                         1

Dr Beer         https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2024/03/antwerp-spring-2024.html                         2

Dr Beer         https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2023/07/antwerp-2023-first-visits.html                         3

Het Souke https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2023/07/antwerp-2023-revisits.html                                 2

Het Souke https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2022/07/Antwerp-2022-Hoogstraat.html                         6

Het Souke https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/07/antwerp-thursday-27-june-2019.html                 1

Paniek         https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/07/antwerp-friday-28-june-2019.html                 2

Paters Vaetje         https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2023/07/antwerp-2023-revisits.html                                 1

Paters Vaetje         https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2019/07/antwerp-friday-28-june-2019.html                 4

The Northerner https://beereurope.blogspot.com/2023/07/antwerp-2023-first-visits.html                         3

Antwerp - first visits - June 2024

Our group of friends was in Antwerp from 20-23 June primarily to support Beer Passion / Bierpassie Weekend in Groenplaats but we also had time to visit local bars and sights.

While Simon recovered from a late finish on Friday and Richard recovered from a run around the triangular Stadspark on the Saturday morning, Tim set off on foot from Hotel National near Groenplaats to reach 't Licht der Dokken, following tram tracks for most of the way.

At Oudaan, a pedestrian shopping street features a small brass sculpture on a concrete pedestal under a tree of 'Den deugniet', the rascal.

Photo: Brasserie du Bocq

The Deugniet nickname and image is also used for a strong golden ale brewed by Brasserie du Bocq near Namur.

The Oudaan Winkelcentrum shopping centre composed of hexagon shapes, immediately west of Korte Gasthuisstraat, is in the shadow of the Politietoren a 15 storey brutalist tower built for Antwerp police but currently empty.

Oudaan Winkelzentrum is the location for both Uncharted Brew Co and Station 1280 which is just across a passage. They were both closed when I visited but a look through the windows of Uncharted Brew Co revealed some small brewing vessels. 

There is a bar, and tables for customers inside Station 1280 with a blackboard listing beers behind the bar, from breweries including Uncharted Brew Co, The Kernel, Cloudwater, Oskar Blues and Dok Brew. Days of opening are from Tuesday to Saturday. Perhaps a proper first visit can be achieved on a subsequent visit to Antwerp.

Boerentoren - view from Meirbrug

Tim now took a route north to Meirbrug and followed the tram tracks along Sint Katelijnevest and Sint Paulusstraat before turning towards the Museum aan de Stroom (MAS). 

Next to MAS there was a display of  human balancing skills above Bonapartedok. 

't Licht der Dokken

After this unusual entertainment, 't Licht der Dokken was found at the junction of Amsterdamstraat and Verbindingsdok Westkaai.

There were already some customers at tables outside but as the only customer inside there was an opportunity to take photos and sit at the best table by the window with a cup of coffee. The draught beers here are Stella Artois, Belle-Vue Kriek, Tripel Karmeliet and Bolleke De Koninck. I didn't see the bottled beer menu but the point of sale advertising suggests that Tripel d'Anvers, Seef Bier, Nonkel Pater and Super 8 Flandrien would be available.

The cafe bar with patterned floor tiles is traditionally furnished and the multiple mirrors make the space look bigger inside. Wall displays also indicate that cyclists are welcomed here. With Belgium playing a Euro 2024 football match this evening, the bar owner busied himself at mounting a flat screen TV on an external railing while standing on a table, thankfully without any damage.

I was tempted to order a Kriek if others would soon arrive but WhatsApp messages suggested a later rendezvous at the nearby Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie taproom was the plan so instead I used the time for a brief visit to the funnel shaped tower which can be accessed free from the Red Star Line shop and museum entrance.

Of course, there are splendid views in all directions from the top including some with the river Scheldt.

The subsequent visits to Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and Dr Beer will be covered in a separate post for revisited Antwerp pubs. 

't Licht der Dokken - Photo: Google

There will surely be an opportunity to drink a beer at 't Licht der Dokken with friends on a subsequent visit to Antwerp's redeveloped docklands area.

If you're lucky, you may also see nearby Londenbrug being raised / lowered to allow vessels to pass.

't Waagstuk

Like 't Licht der Dokken, 't Waagstuk is a cafe bar featured in the 'More great cafes in Belgium' list at the back of the Belgium Cafe Culture book by Regula Ysewijn. Tim is hoping to tick all these one day and was pleased that the group agreed that this should be our next destination after visiting Dr Beer, only a ten minute walk away.

Stadswaag - Photo:Google

 't Waagstuk is situated on a corner of Stadswaag, a pleasant square filled with trees and several permanent long benches. There are several other bars in the same square. 

It is normal to order at the bar at 't Waagstuk and my order for Richard, Andrew, Simon and myself comprised 3 x 33cl glasses of Troubadour Magma NEIPA and a 33cl glass of Vicaris Triple Geuze from the taps.

We didn't sit in the courtyard but instead found a table in the main room next to the room with a billiards table. 

Paul and Simon

There was room for Paul, Jennie and Linda as well at our big wooden table.

This room has some enamel brewery signs and the unique light fittings have a light bulb set behind a semicircle of upturned beer bottles.

My position at the table opposite the window also gave a view towards the bar area which can be closed off by two sets of dungeon like steel gates. The floor is paved with traditional square tiles

There was an opportunity to get a photo of the entire bar area with its bar stools and ceramic beer mugs hanging from the rafters when we left. Situated near the University and with a reputation as one of the best student bars in Antwerp there must be many students with fond memories of this view! The option to sit at the bar in this high ceilinged room would surely appeal particularly to any individuals or couples. 

Expect the clientele here to change depending on whether it is university term time or not. 

It was nice to get around to ticking off this traditional bar with its interesting features but it's not high on my list for a revisit, especially with it's off centre location.