Lier, Flanders - 2024

Our group of friends was in Antwerp from 20-23 June primarily to support Beer Passion / Bierpassie Weekend in Groenplaats but we also had time to visit Lier and the Zimmer tower on the Friday, when it rained for most of the day.

The trip started with a short train journey from Antwerp's magnificent Central station - Antwerpen-Centraal. Lierre / Lier is well served by around five trains an hour from Antwerp, taking about 16 minutes and costing 3.60 euros for a single journey.

There were no buses running from the station on the outskirts to the centre of Lier due to road closures for the annual Lier Feest festival. Alternative routes to reach the Zimmer tower are to follow a wide tree-lined path that follows the base of the old city walls next to a river or to follow Antwerpsestraat to the Grote Markt and its imposing Stadhuis (Town hall).

Het Belofte Land

Having travelled by separate trains from Anwerp and routes from Lier station we met up inside Cafe Het Belofte Land at Begijnhofstraat 7.

Tim found Andrew, Richard and Simon in the raised level around a table in the furthest corner of the cafe. Lisbeth, looked after serving our beers and tempted us to order spaghetti dishes, which the cafe is known for, but it was too early in the day for us to have a meal.

Keen to try the first in the new Juicy range of beers from Mort Subite, Tim ordered Crime of Passion from the tap.

The others were drinking draught Hapkin 'a strong blond beer with subtle fruitiness', now brewed by Alken-Maes. Our second beer order was a mirror of the first order so we all enjoyed one of each.

Now dry, warm and refreshed we departed for a walk around the traditional cobbled streets of Lier's sizeable Begijnhof / Beguinage, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1998, with St Margaret's church as its centre. Thankfully the rain had eased by now.

The Zimmer tower, museum and cafe is located beyond the north east boundary of the Begijnhof. The astronomical Jubilee clock built by Louis Zimmer (1888-1970) with 13 different dials is on the tower's front facade. A visit to the museum and the inside of the tower is recommended (5 euros).

Sint-Gummarus

Sint-Gummarus has an enviable location, 100 metres at F. Timmermansplein 2, north east of the Zimmer tower and fronting onto the river with plenty of space for outside tables. 

There are ten draught beers and Tim took his glass of Cherry Chouffe to a table opposite the bar with many interesting signs, pictures and a league table on the wall. Perhaps the incongruous brightly coloured bar stool seats appeal to younger generations? 

Cafe In de Gloria Lier

Cafe In de Gloria Lier is located just around the next corner, near Hoogbrug, at Grote Markt 2. 

Tim rejoined the others at this high-ceilinged cafe and ordered a glass of Liefmans Peach beer (3.8% ABV). 

Decorated with bunting and inflatable devil fork in colours of the Belgian flag, presumably for Euro 2024, the permanent items on display in the cafe include an old clock and radio, a portrait of James Dean and a Bass Pale Ale mirror. 

Cafe Rene

Following a recommendation based on it's range of beers, Cafe Rene at Zimmerplein 11, was our final stop in Lier.

Inside the decor is contemporary with plenty of pale wood. 

Tim's beer choice here was Viswijf from Brouwerij Vissenberg, founded in 2013, now with an address in Vremde, between Antwerp and Lier. 

Now it was time for something to eat. It was nice to find that a Croque Monsieur is served on a plate with paper cups of mayonnaise, ketchup and small pickled onions.

Determined to save money on the ride back to Antwerp for the first evening of Bierpassie weekend in Groenplaats, Tim followed the tree-lined path to find a bus stop across the river and outside the centre.

This journey involved catching a bus part way and then changing onto a tram, both operated by De Lijn and only costing a single one hour charge of 1.70 euros on his 10-rittenkaart (10 rides ticket). 

With a delay on the tram due to a track issue, it would be some time later before Tim caught up with the others near the tent where Ben Vinken (seated right 'the original Belgian beer sommelier') is on hand to greet customers at Bierpassie Weekend.

Although senior in age to Richard and Simon, Tim was the junior of our group in terms of number of visits to Antwerp for Bierpassie Weekend. It was rewarding to hear that his proposal of a trip to Lier had been highly valued by all and that a return visit to the town was anticipated in future, hopefully on a dry day!

Antwerp - first visits - June 2024

Our group of friends was in Antwerp from 20-23 June primarily to support Beer Passion / Bierpassie Weekend in Groenplaats but we also had time to visit local bars and sights.

While Simon recovered from a late finish on Friday and Richard recovered from a run around the triangular Stadspark on the Saturday morning, Tim set off on foot from Hotel National near Groenplaats to reach 't Licht der Dokken, following tram tracks for most of the way.

At Oudaan, a pedestrian shopping street features a small brass sculpture on a concrete pedestal under a tree of 'Den deugniet', the rascal.

Photo: Brasserie du Bocq

The Deugniet nickname and image is also used for a strong golden ale brewed by Brasserie du Bocq near Namur.

The Oudaan Winkelcentrum shopping centre composed of hexagon shapes, immediately west of Korte Gasthuisstraat, is in the shadow of the Politietoren a 15 storey brutalist tower built for Antwerp police but currently empty.

Oudaan Winkelzentrum is the location for both Uncharted Brew Co and Station 1280 which is just across a passage. They were both closed when I visited but a look through the windows of Uncharted Brew Co revealed some small brewing vessels. 

There is a bar, and tables for customers inside Station 1280 with a blackboard listing beers behind the bar, from breweries including Uncharted Brew Co, The Kernel, Cloudwater, Oskar Blues and Dok Brew. Days of opening are from Tuesday to Saturday. Perhaps a proper first visit can be achieved on a subsequent visit to Antwerp.

Boerentoren - view from Meirbrug

Tim now took a route north to Meirbrug and followed the tram tracks along Sint Katelijnevest and Sint Paulusstraat before turning towards the Museum aan de Stroom (MAS). 

Next to MAS there was a display of  human balancing skills above Bonapartedok. 

't Licht der Dokken

After this unusual entertainment, 't Licht der Dokken was found at the junction of Amsterdamstraat and Verbindingsdok Westkaai.

There were already some customers at tables outside but as the only customer inside there was an opportunity to take photos and sit at the best table by the window with a cup of coffee. The draught beers here are Stella Artois, Belle-Vue Kriek, Tripel Karmeliet and Bolleke De Koninck. I didn't see the bottled beer menu but the point of sale advertising suggests that Tripel d'Anvers, Seef Bier, Nonkel Pater and Super 8 Flandrien would be available.

The cafe bar with patterned floor tiles is traditionally furnished and the multiple mirrors make the space look bigger inside. Wall displays also indicate that cyclists are welcomed here. With Belgium playing a Euro 2024 football match this evening, the bar owner busied himself at mounting a flat screen TV on an external railing while standing on a table, thankfully without any damage.

I was tempted to order a Kriek if others would soon arrive but WhatsApp messages suggested a later rendezvous at the nearby Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie taproom was the plan so instead I used the time for a brief visit to the funnel shaped tower which can be accessed free from the Red Star Line shop and museum entrance.

Of course, there are splendid views in all directions from the top including some with the river Scheldt.

The subsequent visits to Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and Dr Beer will be covered in a separate post for revisited Antwerp pubs. 

't Licht der Dokken - Photo: Google

There will surely be an opportunity to drink a beer at 't Licht der Dokken with friends on a subsequent visit to Antwerp's redeveloped docklands area.

If you're lucky, you may also see nearby Londenbrug being raised / lowered to allow vessels to pass.

't Waagstuk

Like 't Licht der Dokken, 't Waagstuk is a cafe bar featured in the 'More great cafes in Belgium' list at the back of the Belgium Cafe Culture book by Regula Ysewijn. Tim is hoping to tick all these one day and was pleased that the group agreed that this should be our next destination after visiting Dr Beer, only a ten minute walk away.

Stadswaag - Photo:Google

 't Waagstuk is situated on a corner of Stadswaag, a pleasant square filled with trees and several permanent long benches. There are several other bars in the same square. 

It is normal to order at the bar at 't Waagstuk and my order for Richard, Andrew, Simon and myself comprised 3 x 33cl glasses of Troubadour Magma NEIPA and a 33cl glass of Vicaris Triple Geuze from the taps.

We didn't sit in the courtyard but instead found a table in the main room next to the room with a billiards table. 

Paul and Simon

There was room for Paul, Jennie and Linda as well at our big wooden table.

This room has some enamel brewery signs and the unique light fittings have a light bulb set behind a semicircle of upturned beer bottles.

My position at the table opposite the window also gave a view towards the bar area which can be closed off by two sets of dungeon like steel gates. The floor is paved with traditional square tiles

There was an opportunity to get a photo of the entire bar area with its bar stools and ceramic beer mugs hanging from the rafters when we left. Situated near the University and with a reputation as one of the best student bars in Antwerp there must be many students with fond memories of this view! The option to sit at the bar in this high ceilinged room would surely appeal particularly to any individuals or couples. 

Expect the clientele here to change depending on whether it is university term time or not. 

It was nice to get around to ticking off this traditional bar with its interesting features but it's not high on my list for a revisit, especially with it's off centre location.

Antwerp - Beer Passion Weekend 2024

Overlooked by the Cathedral of Our Lady, Groenplaats is the setting for the annual Bierpassie Weekend in Antwerp. The 23rd edition opened at 5pm on Friday 21 June 2024.

Our group supported the festival for a few hours on the Friday (early evening), Saturday (mid evening) and Sunday (lunchtime). Tim and Simon were glad to return after missing the 2023 edition after finding out too late that we had booked travel and accommodation for the following weekend. Richard and Andrew were back as usual but Keith was missing in Germany this year. Paul, Jennie and Linda were attending for the first time.

L to R: Simon, Jennie, Paul, Linda & Richard 

On the Friday evening we found a table in Ben Vinken's Beer Sommelier bar which was less busy than usual. Ben and his friends sat at a nearby table smoking cigars.

Entrance to the Bierapassie Weekend costs 10 euros and includes a programme, tasting glass and two beer tokens (each with 3 euro value for a a 20 cl serving). Tim and Simon reused their old tasting glasses and simply bought 10 tokens for 30 euros to start off with. To access the toilets costs 1 euro. N.B. Bubble wrap or similar is useful for keeping your glass safe from one day to the next. 

In addition to Ben's bar in the marquee near the entrance, this year there were 16 brewery stands and 3 brewery beer trucks. Glasses are routinely rinsed or replaced before each beer is served. Breweries staff their own stands and at quiet times are happy to chat about the beers served.

A new stand this year was for Apropos IPA from Antwerp. Tom Snels and Bart Wynants from Cafe Apropos, Schermersstraat 33, near Mechelsplein and Leopoldplaats, a kilometer away. They collaborated with Brouwerij De Graal to brew their house beer, a blond 7.5% ABV IPA.

Le Plan-Vermeersch brought a beer truck to the festival. Taking its name from former Belgian rally driver Dirk Vermeersch, who subsequently built up a winery in France and more recently developed a range of Belgian beers.

Keen to try flavoured beers, Tim enjoyed a glass of Le Plan Beat, a 5% ABV red wheat beer with a hint of beetroot.

Dixieland Street Band

During the festival there are several performances around the site by musicians including Dixieland Street Band (Friday and Saturday) and Tussen Neus en Lippen, a Dutch brass band from 's-Hertogenbosch known for its Oeteldonk carnival (Sunday lunchtime).

'Tussen Neus en Lippen' (NL)

Staying at nearby Hotel National, Tim was the first to arrive on Sunday morning and his first drink of the day was Floris Framboos, a 3.6% ABV fruit beer from Brouwerij Huyghe, the brewers of Delirium Tremens. 

See you at Bierpassie Weekend next year? While Tim has only been a regular since 2016, Richard, Andrew and Simon have been attending since the festival started and have the t-shirts to prove it!

The festival programme reveals that the 24th Bierpassie Weekend in 2025 is moving to a new venue indoors - the historic Handelsbeurs building. Once a commodity exchange and later a stock exchange it is now part of an events venue.