04 January 2026

Český Krumlov

A day trip from České Budějovice to Český Krumlov by train on Monday 24 November 2026 was an interesting excursion in South Bohemia
It brought us quite close to the Czech border with Austria.
The small local train takes 45 minutes to cover the 22km single track route which wends its way through forests in the rolling countryside after crossing the river Vitava. 
There are several stops at small stations and halts along the route. One station had a timber yard.
Arriving at Český Krumlov, we passed Hostinec Slepá kolej after leaving the train. It was too early for a beer so we resolved to visit before catching the train back later.
View from steps towards the town
The station is uphill from the well preserved medieval town. Serpentina - a pedestrian route with broad steps can be taken to avoid following the curved road all the way down to Český Krumlov.
Approaching Budějovická brána (Budweiser gate), we passed Hostinec u Dušků with a balcony overlooking a tributary of the river Vitava (left above) and in the other direction there were views of the town from the bridge
We walked along the sloping cobbled streets of the town passing several shops with tasteful displays.
There were a few tour groups in evidence near the castle (left above) and at the bridge near the town centre -Lazebnický most (right above).
After crossing the river we looked at the town square with it's Christmas market and then walked to the museum (closed on Mondays) where elevated views are possible from a courtyard garden.
Retracing our steps towards the bridge at a lower level we enjoyed soup and beer for lunch at Krčma U dwau Maryí (the Tavern of the Two Marys). Our small table by the first floor window had the best view!
The draught Eggenberg was 75 Kc for a half litre glass.
In 2016 a new craft brewery Historický Pivovar Krumlov was founded at the site of the old Eggenberg brewery. With a large yellow circle on the right of the aerial map above, the brewery was only a short walk from the tavern near the bridge, marked with a small yellow circle.
Port 1560 is the town's new cultural centre at the former brewery site. It looks like the old brewery buildings are in the 'C' area on the plan. 
We walked through the courtyard and turned left to find the new brewery site next to the taproom and restaurant marked as 1 & 2 in the top right of the plan.



WORK IN PROGRESS - watch this space


01 December 2025

Poperinge beer and hops

A cart used in hop yards for stringing outside the Hop Museum
Staying in Poperinge from 24-27 October, 2025, gave an opportunity to visit some local bars, walk around the town, visit the annual beer festival and to make side trips to Ypres and Westvleteren. See other posts for: Folk games in Poperinge pubs; Ypres and Westvleteren; Poperinge Bierfestival.

Cafe de Snoek

Near the railway station terminus, Cafe de Snoek was visited with Graham, after we returned from Ypres by train on Friday night. Nearby Cafe Britannia had looked more inviting earlier that evening but it had closed in the meantime.

It was well lit inside and we found a table with a view of the bar which was decked with hops. The draught beer range included Jupiler, Cristal and Rodenbach Classic. 

Tim chose bottled beers here - St Bernardus Tripel (€4) and later Tripel Plukker (€4) shortly before 'last call' at 11.45pm. Although the St Bernardus Tripel seemed dry for a Tripel, the Tripel Plukker now brewed nearby at Terrest Brewery was impressive, especially for head retention.

Bistro de Stadsschaal

At Gasthuisstraat 7, Bistro de Stadsschaal has an impressive frontage. There is also a back entrance which leads to the toilet block and the courtyard of the Hop Museum.
The courtyard features a large poster with a map of the Belgian part of the Westhoek region showing breweries, hop gardens and the hop museum building. 
While Graham and Les visited the hop museum, Tim and David went inside the Bistro which has an upmarket style. Draught beers include Stella Artois, St Bernardus Tripel Blond, Poperings Hommelbier and Queue de Charue Ploegsteert Blond.
Despite knowing it as a dry beer, Tim ordered Poperings Hommelbier (€3.50) as it seemed the most appropriate place to taste it again. The entrance to the Hop Museum could be seen through the window from our table.

The extensive bottled beer list includes 13 Belgian blonde beers and 11 in other styles. Brewed nearby at Terrest Brewery, De Plukker Keikoppenbier, a 6.1% ABV 'hoppy blonde', is derived from a nickname (stone heads) given to people from Poperinge by their long-time rivals in Ypres.
Having completed their visit to the Hop Museum, Graham and Les joined David and Tim and later our group headed north and east along Gasthuisstraat towards GAST and the town centre, passing Skindles Guest House built in 1720 and historic Talbot House on the way.

GAST

GAST (Guest - 'our name stands for hospitality') is on the other side of the road at Gasthuisstraat 24. 
The beer cafe with 12 draught beers was opened by Ines and Kim in July 2023 after ten months of renovations.
Inside, there's a lot of exposed brick and greenery including hops. The seating and tables are in a basic contemporary style.
Tim's choice from the draught beers and listed on the 'suggestions' blackboard was Terrest Golden Tripel, served in a thin stemmed 33cl glass. The printed menu lists 16 bottled beers in the Blond section and a wide range of other beers at competitive prices e.g. St Bernardus Extra 4 €3.4, Poperings Hommelbier €3.6. A visit to GAST, suggested by David (above right) was a good idea. 
When we were ready to leave for Poperinge Bierfestival, Kim suggested that we should try Soesol there, the first available beer brewed by Brouwmens  - three Poperinge friends - Pepijn, Jordi and Michiel. Reader, we followed Kim's advice.

D'n Hommelzak

Later on Saturday, David, Graham, Mark and Tim left the beer festival for a meal at D'n Hommelzak (The Hop sack) which is situated at Paardenmarkt 10b, above the Carrefour Express and reached by a door to the left of the supermarket entrance followed by stairs. Having arrived later than the others while waiting for the rain to ease, Tim was directed to a billiards and snooker room where the others were already seated at an overflow table, due to the main bistro room being completely full. 
Photo: Mark Geeson
Mark and David were full of praise for their steak dishes while Tim and Graham also enjoyed their spaghetti based meals. Yves, our genial host was most accommodating and as well as serving us personally was keen to chat and see if any of us had an interest in football. We had to disappoint him on that score! 
The menu features a variety of bottled beers with Poperings Hommelbier and Tripel Plukker among many Blond beers. The draught beers are Stella Artois, Palm and Leffe Blond.
We told Yves that he can expect a reservation for a visit from a larger contingent of our festival-going friends next year.

Other cafes and bars in Poperinge

Apart from three featured in the Folk games in Poperinge pubs post (Het Mysterie, In den Havermuis and De Legen Doorn), the two below may justify a visit in future:

The Old Fiddler

De Nieuwe Toren


30 November 2025

Folk games in Poperinge pubs

A first visit to Poperinge beer festival in October 2025, gave an opportunity to also visit several ' Folk sports cafes ' with a variety of Flemish 'folk games' as part of a city walk .

'Shot at Dawn' memorial by Anno Dijkstra with a hollow base.
On Sunday 26 October, Tim's walk started in Burggraaf Frimoutpark named after Dirk Frimout , the first Belgian astronaut. The park features a raised wooden walkway, paths, trees and statues. 
Town Hall  -  Master Ghybe  -  War Memorial
After a circuit of the park, Tim crossed the Grote Markt with the Town Hall on one corner across from St Bertinus church. Near the church there is a war memorial and the Master Ghybe statue where the folklore figure sits backwards on a donkey holding a boulder which relates to longstanding rivalry between Poperinge and Ypres. The boulder is the symbol of the people of Poperinge who are also called "keikop" (stone head).
The next stage of the route was to walk the length of Quintens Wandeling from its starting point between 45 and 47 Professor Dewulfstraat. This follows the route of the former Poperinge - Hazebrouck railway line, closed to passengers since 1954 with the track removed in 1972. 

Het Mysterie

Volksspelencafe Het Mysterie, Abeelseweg 29, lies just south of the town's ring road (Westlaan).
There's a bar for drinkers on the left and a larger room on the right of the central entrance. I sat in the front corner of the larger room and ordered St Bernardus Pater 6 brewed locally at Watou.
There's a selection of available bottles on display on five shelves at the inside end of this room. There may only be a few draught beers but a wide range of local, unusual and Trappist bottled beers means that there is something to satisfy every beer lover.
One shelf has 'witch / spooky themed' beers including Quintine Blonde, four from De Bie Brouwerij and three from Brouwerij De Moare. There's a bottle of Picon on the top shelf. 
With Halloween approaching it was hard to tell how much of the spooky decor was permanent and how much was added for Halloween. The gas canister 'pumpkins' outside were particularly impressive.
I was well looked after at Het Mysterie and was given a small dish of different cheeses. Later, I ordered soup with bread for lunch and was then treated to more cheese that had been left over from the lunch for an extended family group who had been sitting around a large table in the same room.
There are further rooms in a timber extension behind the premises and beyond that a long garden. This is where most of the 'folk games / sports' are played. 
It was a delight to see people enjoying themselves in traditional pastimes involving mental and physical skills. Most of the games were played on boards or frames made from wood.
It was obvious from their customers that Het Mysterie has an appeal for people of all ages.

Bierhuis In den Havermuis

Returning towards Poperinge, taking a path parallel to Quintens Wandeling, gives views of Poperingevaart and a group of local residents on walkabout!
Where this path ends at a street named Havermuis (Harvest mouse?!), the western brick wall of In den Havermuis is visible, 50 metres up a slight slope, where Quintens Wandeling meets Havermuis.
The bricks at the front have been painted white and there is a wooden fence with a wide gate. The Bierhuis looked closed but there was some sound from inside and after opening the green door I was greeted by a lively pub dog eager to assess a new arrival. 
Thankfully, the proprietor calmed his dog and as only one table in the room was occupied, I was soon seated and served with a glass of Queue de Charrue Ploegsteert Blond from a bottle (€4). This fairly sweet 6.6% ABV Belgian Blonde is brewed by Vanuxeem at Ploegsteert, 20 km to the south, near the border with France and Armentieres. The two draught beers were Stella Artois and Brugse Zot.
From my table, I could see display cabinets filled with mouse figures, a standing mouse wearing a coat in a brick alcove and a tall cage with canaries next to the bar, behind a wooden fence to keep the dog away.
It was lucky that on Sundays the Bierhuis provides complimentary snacks at lunchtime and I enjoyed a small dish with hot chicken wings and sausages!
Before leaving I enquired about folk games but was only able to learn that these are only played here during summer months. It was just possible to leave through the narrowly opened door without the lively dog escaping. 
Less cold and still bright, the return to Poperinge along Quintens Wandeling gave a view of the Old Military Cemetery. Following the bronze arrow symbols for the route in the pavement at Deken de Bolaan led into Poperinge Communal Cemetery and on to the town centre.

De Legen Doorn

Situated north of the town centre, from Gasthuisstraat just follow Pottestraat up a gradual incline until you reach De Legen Doorn (The Empty Thorn) at the junction with Sint Sixtusstraat.
Arriving at 4.15pm, it was quiet in the front bar. The beer menu lists Streekbieren (regional beers) at the top, featuring Poperings Hommelbier, Tripel Plukker and four beers from St Bernardus brewed in Watou. 
St Bernardus Extra 4 Blond was rather dry for my taste but good value (€3.50).
There was a darts board and an unusual streamlined stove in the larger room on the other side from the bar. It gave out a lot of heat from burning coal.
I asked the lady who served me if I could see the folk games room and she kindly escorted me to the Boltra alley at the back of the building where a privately booked game was in progress. It was fascinating to watch the progress of the thick wooden discs being rolled down the trough-like alley even if the rules were unknown. Once again it was encouraging to see a group of mixed ages enjoying their drinks and activities. To play Boltra / Trabol here one must reserve the alley. I think the charge mentioned was €20 per hour.

Now it was only a 400 metre walk down Doornstraat to Maeke-Blydezaal to meet up with my CAMRA friends again for the second and final day of Poperinge Beer Festival