Liverpool 2024 - revisits

 

It was nice to meet up with friends in Liverpool in January 2024 and visit some of the best pubs in the city.

A separate post will cover a taproom and pubs visited for the first time while this post only includes revisits, in chronological order.

Peter Kavanagh's

Just off a main bus route along Catharine Street (75, 80, 86A etc) Peter Kavanagh's is situated at 2-6 Egerton Street.

The pub is listed in CAMRA's National Inventory of Historic Pub Interiors and start with the distinctive entrance. The oversized door bars marked 'Push' and 'Pull' are also a feature on internal doors.

A Monday lunchtime visit (22/1/2024) allowed our group to occupy a small room on the right of the entrance at the front. The original circular tables incorporate a central sunken ash tray section.

A similar sized room on the right, just beyond the bar, at the back, features several bulky old radios.

As well as old radios, a central area at the front of the pub also features two old bicycles.

Cask ales on the bar included Blueberry Hill (Porter - Big Bog Brewing Co, Speke, Liverpool) and White Rat (Ossett Brewery, West Yorkshire). The total charge for Tim's half pint of Blueberry porter and Meg's half pint of lime and soda was £2.85. 

N.B. Due to medication affecting Tim's taste on this trip there are no tasting notes in this post.

A separate post includes The Belvedere where our group stayed for a while on the way to the Roscoe Head.

The Roscoe Head

Having left the Belvedere before the main group, Jon and Dennis were settled in at The Roscoe Head, 24 Roscoe Street, when we arrived. The barman coped admirably with our influx and wishes to pay individually. With a £5 minimum card payment some cash payments were required. Tim chose Porteresque (Milkshake Porter, Hophurst Brewery, Wigan) from the six cask ales on the blackboard. The pumpclips on the bank of three handpumps on the adjacent bar were turned around so that they are also visible from the main bar.

Jon, Dennis, Mark and Les are visible in this photo (left to right). The fire in our room was not lit and there was a cold draught. 

Closing the window improved the ambience, especially for those under it like Bod and Steve! This is a classic pub with reliable beer and the only Northern pub to have been included in every edition of the CAMRA Good Beer Guide. After some discussion it was decided to move on to the recently opened White Hart / Engineer with an entrance at 23 Hope Street. After a subsequent visit to Doctor Duncan's, facing St John's Gardens near Lime Street station, we walked down Dale Street for a visit to the Vernon Arms, previously visited on a January Sunday in 2019.

The Vernon Arms

Fondly remembered for its sloping floor it was a pleasure to revisit the Vernon Arms quite late on a Monday night and find a good space for our group at the foot of the slope!

Mark was on his phone again but so was I to take this photo of him and Les with a backdrop of the Manet painting - A bar at the Folies-Bergere - that includes bottles of Bass. My half pint here (centre of table) was Zenith - The IPA (Cross Bay Brewing, Morecambe). Despite the late hour, there was no hurry to close up and later an easy downhill walk from here back to our hotel.

The Lion Tavern

We approached the Lion Tavern indirectly via Eberle Street and stopped to get a photo of a mural there. It was raining and at this point a couple of young Liverpudlians offered us the gift of an umbrella but we politely declined. The most direct approach is via Moorfields with an entrance at Number 67.

This was the one pub that I was determined to revisit on this trip was the Lion Tavern, near Moorfields station. I had brought along a spare copy of Ullage magazine which included a photo of landlord Dave Hardman taken on my 2022 visit. The article also mentions the corresponding Beer Europe blog post. With the rest of the group having departed by Tuesday afternoon, this would be the last pub in Liverpool visited by Meg and I for a beer on this trip.

Although Dave was not at the pub on Tuesday evening Tim was able to give the Ullage magazine to Mark, behind the bar, for him to pass on. The regular and guest cask ales and cider are described on a board under the clock and behind the bar where a 'Total eclipse of the S*n' poster is also on display.

Tim's first half pint was the regular mild - Moorfields Mild (Liverpool Brewing Co). The pub has many interesting design features including wall tiles, mosaic floor and etched windows. The Lion Tavern is included in CAMRA's National Inventory of Historic Pubs.

Finding the conversation level in the main public bar on the loud side we later moved from our high table under the clock to a table in the back lounge which has a jukebox and a distinctive skylight.

The jukebox has several unique discs including 'Proper 70's' with Alison - Elvis Costello as track 1 and 'Liverpool Classics' with Dreaming of You -The Coral as track 1.

Other Classic Liverpool selections include Valerie - The Zutons and Ferry Cross the Mersey - Gerry and the Pacemakers.

Other revisited pubs

We had planned to find food from One Pan Band at the Ship & Mitre on Monday when Doctor Duncan's kitchen was closed but didn't even venture inside when we saw the blackboard in the entrance of the Ship & Mitre showing Monday - closed.

Instead we headed to the North Western (JDW), part of Lime Street station with a side entrance from Lord Nelson Street to a high-ceilinged room that includes some booth seating.

On a visit to the Gents, Tim appreciated the design of the inevitable stairs and stopped to look at some railway related graphic displays nearby.

On a wet Tuesday morning, tankard's choice of the Crown Hotel, at 43 Lime Street, on the south side of Lime Street station, for a breakfast rendezvous had to be changed as the pub no longer serves breakfast. 

However, there was a chance to briefly appreciate the interior decoration including a fireplace before moving across the road to The Richard John Blackler (JDW) on Great Charlotte Street for breakfast. 

The pub is on the ground floor of a building on the site of Blacklers department store. The store opened in 1908 and was rebuilt after World War II, reopening in 1955. 'The Slave Trade' and 'The abolition of the slave trade' are two of several framed displays inside the pub.

We only drank coffee here but noticed that local breweries were represented on the bar by Peerless Brewing Co of Birkenhead and Wily Fox Brewery of Wigan.

Beer Europe posts about previous visits to the above pubs can be found using the blog's search bar (web version) at the top left of the screen.

This post complements a Liverpool 2024 - first visits post mainly featuring Azvex Brewing Co Taproom, The Belvedere, The White Hart / The Engineer, Doctor Duncan's and Ma Egerton's Stage Door.

Liverpool (Baltic Triangle) - June 2022

Returning to Liverpool in June 2022, provided an opportunity to revisit the Baltic Fleet and to visit Black Lodge Brewing and Cains Brewery for the first time. 

The Baltic Fleet

First visited on a night in January 2019, it was nice to revisit the Baltic Fleet in daylight hours, on Monday 6 June.

The paintwork on the chimneys make them look like a ship's funnels. The main entrance is on the side furthest from the narrow end with a side door allowing access to the chained off outside seating area.

Four cask ales were available and I chose Cascade Pale Ale from Carnival Brewing Company (Liverpool). After some walking and a visit to Radical Landscapes at Tate Liverpool, it was a delight to find a beer exactly to my taste and a chance to sit down. The 4.2% ABV session pale is brewed with wheat and oats making it soft, sweet and fruity. (£4.20 pint / card payment only).

Two days later I would return to the Baltic Fleet, after a visit to nearby Black Lodge Brewing, and enjoy a glass of Brimstage Brewery (The Wirral) Trapper's Hat, an award winning 3.8% ABV golden ale. (£1.80 1/2 pint).

Cains Brewery and Bar

On Wednesday 8 June, after a day in Chester, I ventured to Cains Brewery and Bar, at the southern base of the extended Baltic Triangle. My visit was only days after the opening on 2 June and too soon for any beers from the new brewery to be available.

My pint of Ossett White Rat, a 4% ABV dry and hoppy pale ale was enjoyable but on the expensive side (£4.80). I had to ask for the glass to be topped up (photo after) and was not offered a choice of a glass without a handle - hey ho!

There is no doubt that little expense has been spared in furnishing the new Cains Brewery and Bar to a high standard. I liked the bare brick walls and high ceilings in the main bar and the view of the brewery but had a few gripes apart from the price of the beer and glassware. There were liberal amounts of greenery as decoration and features but it was all plastic! The music, that was played quite loudly, was not recognisable classic tunes or even anything unusual and interesting.

Hopefully, the quality of the new Cains Brewery beers will make Cains Brewery and Bar worthwhile visiting in future.

In any case, the surrounding Cains Brewery Village is worth a visit. This area, south east of Parliament Street and Grafton Street, is the home for several bars and food markets including those in the collage above.

There's also an Abbey Road mural by Paul Curtis that is an invitation to step into the frame for a photo opportunity!

My walking route to Black Lodge Brewing was not the one recommended by Google maps but it did allow me to see some buildings, murals and a statue that would have been missed otherwise.

Black Lodge Brewing

Access to Black Lodge Brewing is only possible via Kings Dock Street unless you know your way around the tunnels of Liverpool, one of which has a (usually!) blocked entrance nearby.

There were only a few customers when I arrived soon after 7pm. As it was a warm evening, the outside bar, housed in a 10 foot container, was in use as well as the interior bar.

Hannah and Daniel made me feel very welcome and served me with a glass of Start the Parade. This 4.2% ABV American Pale Ale is hopped with Citra, Simcoe and Mosaic and made a perfect start to my visit. 

The Craft Beer Expo glasses are for the popular event held at Black Lodge Brewing and (adjacent) Sub Rosa with the next one scheduled for 16-18 June 2022.

The keg beers are sensibly priced, based on 2/3 pint servings. The regular Black Lodge branded glasses have lines marked for 1/3 pint and 2/3 pint. A couple of cask ales are often also available from the main bar. My second beer, A Better Land, 4.8% ABV, was hopped with Amarillo and Azacca and I was assured that the Liverpool water is part of the explanation for its excellent quality.

I had a quick look inside the main bar / brewery and noticed that there was plenty of greenery, with real plants, in contrast to Cains Brewery and Bar!

Looking away from the bar you notice an unusual fire basket that was fashioned locally but looks as though it came from outer space! 

There was just time to order a third half pint before Black Lodge Brewing closed for the evening. This was a good moment to persuade Hannah and Daniel to pose with copies of West Berkshire CAMRA's Ullage magazine that I had been distributing. No Condition is Permanent is a 5% ABV juicy pale ale brewed with Citra & Idaho 7 hops. 

I could not have asked for better beers or more friendly hosts than I was privileged to enjoy on this memorable evening. Cheers!

The Bridewell

After stopping for a half pint at the Baltic Fleet, I headed north on Wapping and then right into Liver Street, the northern boundary of the Baltic Triangle. Passing beyond Park Lane, the eastern edge of the Baltic Triangle, the entrance to The Bridewell can be found at the corner of Argyle Street and Campbell Square.

Formerly a Victorian police station (note the blue lamp and pub sign), the cells are now used as seating areas and there is an enclosed patio area.

At the bar, my half pint of  Kirkstall Brewery Jasper (£1.85) tasted sour. It was easily exchanged for Kirkstall Brewery Three Swords, a 4.5% ABV extra pale ale brewed with three American hop varieties.

It was a new experience to pass the heavy cell door and sit inside a cell with a beer! Perhaps not the best venue for anyone prone to claustrophobia though!

With good music being played (Moby, Bahamas, The Smiths) it was an easy decision to order another half pint and stay a bit longer. The Kirkstall Brewery Virtuous (£2.50) 4.5% ABV session IPA was pale and dry. 

Among the interesting items displayed on the walls of the Bridewell is a poster for the Cassius Clay v Henry Cooper bout at Wembley in 1963 framed together with a signed photo collage. This was the match that Our 'Enery would lose in the fifth round having knocked down Cassius Clay near the end of the fourth round.

Returning my glass to the bar and noticing that Ossett Brewery Silver King was available on cask resulted in an extended stay for another half pint (£1.85). This is a fruity American Pale Ale (4.3% ABV).

Congratulations to Fiona and Dominic Hornsby, who took over the lease in 2019, as The Bridewell was awarded Pub of the Year 2022 by Liverpool & Districts CAMRA. The Denbigh Castle is their second Liverpool pub and is featured, with the Lion Tavern, in a companion post - Liverpool (Moorfields) - June 2022.

Other pubs South of Liverpool Central

The Philharmonic Dining Rooms is famed for the marble surrounded urinals in the Gents toilets. The pub is now managed by Nicholson's. I enjoyed a pint of Timothy Taylor's Landlord (£4.85 pint) on my visit. 

It was quiet on a Monday evening but well worth having a look around the various rooms to appreciate the historic and ornate interior. Cheers to the person who suggested Brahms and Liszt for facing rooms! CAMRA's Pub Heritage database has more details and photos of the pub's historic features.

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The Grapes at 60 Roscoe Street, on the corner with Knight Street, is also in the Georgian Quarter and not to be confused with the Grapes, Mathew Street in the Cavern Quarter.  From a wide choice of cask ales, I chose Chapter Brewing (Sutton Weaver, Runcorn) Kandata. The 4.7% ABV pale ale was smooth and fruity (£3.70 pint). In contrast to the Philharmonic, the Grapes was busy on a Monday night, downstairs and in the sheltered patio, above a recent extension to the side of the pub, designed by Huge Architects. 

Open to the sky, there was only the sound of multiple conversations in this space surrounded by Buddhas and potted plants. The Grapes is a pub for the young and the young at heart!

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While the Lime Kiln may lack character, it makes up for this with value and convenience. The modern Wetherspoon pub is near lively Concert Square and overlooks Fleet Street. It is only a short walk from Bundobust on Bold Street and Kazimier Garden on Seel Street. I had no complaints about the beers at the Lime Kiln (eg Weetwood Ales Cheshire Cat, a 4% ABV blonde ale for £2.10 pint; Peerless Brewing Co Brit Hop, a dry 4.7% ABV golden ale - seen in photo) or the evening meals and the breakfast bacon butties with unlimited coffee (£1.20 extra). My only gripe here would be the lack of beer mats, leading to sticky table surfaces.

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My previous visit to Peter Kavanagh's was on a Sunday afternoon in January 2019 and resulted in some interior photos (including the one above) appearing in a post for Beer Europe. On Wednesday 8 June 2022, my only photo would be of the pub's exterior with groups gathered at outside tables (see map / photo collage above). Once inside, all the cask ale pump clips were turned round except for Abbot Ale which was the only one available on this occasion. I pledged to return another day and embarked on a walk down busy Parliament Street to reach Cains Brewery Village. My subsequent tweet about this lack of cask ale choice elicited a courteous reply from the pub: 'Only got our delivery in today so cask has to settle, sorry about that we like to make sure you get a good pint.'.

More photos of the historic interior of Peter Kavanagh's are featured in CAMRA's Pub Heritage database.

[NB Note that all beer prices quoted were from Tim's visit to Liverpool 6-9 June 2022.]