Liverpool (Baltic Triangle) - June 2022

Returning to Liverpool in June 2022, provided an opportunity to revisit the Baltic Fleet and to visit Black Lodge Brewing and Cains Brewery for the first time. 

The Baltic Fleet

First visited on a night in January 2019, it was nice to revisit the Baltic Fleet in daylight hours, on Monday 6 June.

The paintwork on the chimneys make them look like a ship's funnels. The main entrance is on the side furthest from the narrow end with a side door allowing access to the chained off outside seating area.

Four cask ales were available and I chose Cascade Pale Ale from Carnival Brewing Company (Liverpool). After some walking and a visit to Radical Landscapes at Tate Liverpool, it was a delight to find a beer exactly to my taste and a chance to sit down. The 4.2% ABV session pale is brewed with wheat and oats making it soft, sweet and fruity. (£4.20 pint / card payment only).

Two days later I would return to the Baltic Fleet, after a visit to nearby Black Lodge Brewing, and enjoy a glass of Brimstage Brewery (The Wirral) Trapper's Hat, an award winning 3.8% ABV golden ale. (£1.80 1/2 pint).

Cains Brewery and Bar

On Wednesday 8 June, after a day in Chester, I ventured to Cains Brewery and Bar, at the southern base of the extended Baltic Triangle. My visit was only days after the opening on 2 June and too soon for any beers from the new brewery to be available.

My pint of Ossett White Rat, a 4% ABV dry and hoppy pale ale was enjoyable but on the expensive side (£4.80). I had to ask for the glass to be topped up (photo after) and was not offered a choice of a glass without a handle - hey ho!

There is no doubt that little expense has been spared in furnishing the new Cains Brewery and Bar to a high standard. I liked the bare brick walls and high ceilings in the main bar and the view of the brewery but had a few gripes apart from the price of the beer and glassware. There were liberal amounts of greenery as decoration and features but it was all plastic! The music, that was played quite loudly, was not recognisable classic tunes or even anything unusual and interesting.

Hopefully, the quality of the new Cains Brewery beers will make Cains Brewery and Bar worthwhile visiting in future.

In any case, the surrounding Cains Brewery Village is worth a visit. This area, south east of Parliament Street and Grafton Street, is the home for several bars and food markets including those in the collage above.

There's also an Abbey Road mural by Paul Curtis that is an invitation to step into the frame for a photo opportunity!

My walking route to Black Lodge Brewing was not the one recommended by Google maps but it did allow me to see some buildings, murals and a statue that would have been missed otherwise.

Black Lodge Brewing

Access to Black Lodge Brewing is only possible via Kings Dock Street unless you know your way around the tunnels of Liverpool, one of which has a (usually!) blocked entrance nearby.

There were only a few customers when I arrived soon after 7pm. As it was a warm evening, the outside bar, housed in a 10 foot container, was in use as well as the interior bar.

Hannah and Daniel made me feel very welcome and served me with a glass of Start the Parade. This 4.2% ABV American Pale Ale is hopped with Citra, Simcoe and Mosaic and made a perfect start to my visit. 

The Craft Beer Expo glasses are for the popular event held at Black Lodge Brewing and (adjacent) Sub Rosa with the next one scheduled for 16-18 June 2022.

The keg beers are sensibly priced, based on 2/3 pint servings. The regular Black Lodge branded glasses have lines marked for 1/3 pint and 2/3 pint. A couple of cask ales are often also available from the main bar. My second beer, A Better Land, 4.8% ABV, was hopped with Amarillo and Azacca and I was assured that the Liverpool water is part of the explanation for its excellent quality.

I had a quick look inside the main bar / brewery and noticed that there was plenty of greenery, with real plants, in contrast to Cains Brewery and Bar!

Looking away from the bar you notice an unusual fire basket that was fashioned locally but looks as though it came from outer space! 

There was just time to order a third half pint before Black Lodge Brewing closed for the evening. This was a good moment to persuade Hannah and Daniel to pose with copies of West Berkshire CAMRA's Ullage magazine that I had been distributing. No Condition is Permanent is a 5% ABV juicy pale ale brewed with Citra & Idaho 7 hops. 

I could not have asked for better beers or more friendly hosts than I was privileged to enjoy on this memorable evening. Cheers!

The Bridewell

After stopping for a half pint at the Baltic Fleet, I headed north on Wapping and then right into Liver Street, the northern boundary of the Baltic Triangle. Passing beyond Park Lane, the eastern edge of the Baltic Triangle, the entrance to The Bridewell can be found at the corner of Argyle Street and Campbell Square.

Formerly a Victorian police station (note the blue lamp and pub sign), the cells are now used as seating areas and there is an enclosed patio area.

At the bar, my half pint of  Kirkstall Brewery Jasper (£1.85) tasted sour. It was easily exchanged for Kirkstall Brewery Three Swords, a 4.5% ABV extra pale ale brewed with three American hop varieties.

It was a new experience to pass the heavy cell door and sit inside a cell with a beer! Perhaps not the best venue for anyone prone to claustrophobia though!

With good music being played (Moby, Bahamas, The Smiths) it was an easy decision to order another half pint and stay a bit longer. The Kirkstall Brewery Virtuous (£2.50) 4.5% ABV session IPA was pale and dry. 

Among the interesting items displayed on the walls of the Bridewell is a poster for the Cassius Clay v Henry Cooper bout at Wembley in 1963 framed together with a signed photo collage. This was the match that Our 'Enery would lose in the fifth round having knocked down Cassius Clay near the end of the fourth round.

Returning my glass to the bar and noticing that Ossett Brewery Silver King was available on cask resulted in an extended stay for another half pint (£1.85). This is a fruity American Pale Ale (4.3% ABV).

Congratulations to Fiona and Dominic Hornsby, who took over the lease in 2019, as The Bridewell was awarded Pub of the Year 2022 by Liverpool & Districts CAMRA. The Denbigh Castle is their second Liverpool pub and is featured, with the Lion Tavern, in a companion post - Liverpool (Moorfields) - June 2022.

Other pubs South of Liverpool Central

The Philharmonic Dining Rooms is famed for the marble surrounded urinals in the Gents toilets. The pub is now managed by Nicholson's. I enjoyed a pint of Timothy Taylor's Landlord (£4.85 pint) on my visit. 

It was quiet on a Monday evening but well worth having a look around the various rooms to appreciate the historic and ornate interior. Cheers to the person who suggested Brahms and Liszt for facing rooms! CAMRA's Pub Heritage database has more details and photos of the pub's historic features.

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The Grapes at 60 Roscoe Street, on the corner with Knight Street, is also in the Georgian Quarter and not to be confused with the Grapes, Mathew Street in the Cavern Quarter.  From a wide choice of cask ales, I chose Chapter Brewing (Sutton Weaver, Runcorn) Kandata. The 4.7% ABV pale ale was smooth and fruity (£3.70 pint). In contrast to the Philharmonic, the Grapes was busy on a Monday night, downstairs and in the sheltered patio, above a recent extension to the side of the pub, designed by Huge Architects. 

Open to the sky, there was only the sound of multiple conversations in this space surrounded by Buddhas and potted plants. The Grapes is a pub for the young and the young at heart!

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While the Lime Kiln may lack character, it makes up for this with value and convenience. The modern Wetherspoon pub is near lively Concert Square and overlooks Fleet Street. It is only a short walk from Bundobust on Bold Street and Kazimier Garden on Seel Street. I had no complaints about the beers at the Lime Kiln (eg Weetwood Ales Cheshire Cat, a 4% ABV blonde ale for £2.10 pint; Peerless Brewing Co Brit Hop, a dry 4.7% ABV golden ale - seen in photo) or the evening meals and the breakfast bacon butties with unlimited coffee (£1.20 extra). My only gripe here would be the lack of beer mats, leading to sticky table surfaces.

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My previous visit to Peter Kavanagh's was on a Sunday afternoon in January 2019 and resulted in some interior photos (including the one above) appearing in a post for Beer Europe. On Wednesday 8 June 2022, my only photo would be of the pub's exterior with groups gathered at outside tables (see map / photo collage above). Once inside, all the cask ale pump clips were turned round except for Abbot Ale which was the only one available on this occasion. I pledged to return another day and embarked on a walk down busy Parliament Street to reach Cains Brewery Village. My subsequent tweet about this lack of cask ale choice elicited a courteous reply from the pub: 'Only got our delivery in today so cask has to settle, sorry about that we like to make sure you get a good pint.'.

More photos of the historic interior of Peter Kavanagh's are featured in CAMRA's Pub Heritage database.

[NB Note that all beer prices quoted were from Tim's visit to Liverpool 6-9 June 2022.]

Liverpool / Wirral 2019 - Friday 11 January

Preparations for a day leading a CAMRA group to Wirral pubs included drawing a rough map and checking public transport for an itinerary.

Breakfast with unlimited coffee at the Lime Kiln (Wetherspoon) allowed our group to sit together and agree to catch the 11am Mersey ferry from Liverpool's Pier Head.

Everyone was advised to visit the shop next to the entrance to nearby Liverpool Central station. The shop sells reloadable Merseytravel Walrus cards (£1) and a Saveaway all areas day ticket (£5.40) loaded onto the card includes ferry crossings, railway and bus travel in Liverpool and the Wirral.

After breakfast I had time for a brief visit to the Double Fantasy - John & Yoko - an exhibition on the top floor of the impressive new Museum of Liverpool, near the Pier Head.

We enjoyed views towards Liverpool and Birkenhead from the 'Dazzle Ferry' Snowdrop as it crossed the river Mersey.

Sir Peter Blake designed the artwork for 'Everybody Razzle Dazzle'. As this crossing was part of the River Explorer Cruise it included a commentary and the inevitable sound of 'Ferry Cross the Mersey' by Gerry & the Pacemakers.

Woodside: Jon Gadd with CAMRA group by an historic submarine

We were allowed to stay on the ferry from Seacombe ferry terminal to Woodside ferry terminal where it is only a short walk to Birkenhead's Hamilton Square station.

We passed the closed Pier Hotel, once owned by Birkenhead Brewery, the brewers of Peerless ales and stout.

A 27 minute train journey took us from the underground platform at Hamilton Square to the terminus at West Kirby. Having come this far, we made a slight detour to gain a view across the Dee estuary to Wales and to see Hilbre island, accessible on foot at low tide over the dunes.

West Kirby Tap

The West Kirby Tap was only five minutes walk from the coastal viewpoint.

A board behind the bar has eight slots for strips of blackboard chalked with changing cask ale details.

The bar is on the left and a wood burning stove is on the right of the large room with an exposed roof space above. Blackboards have details of food, gin and events. The floor is formed of squares of polished concrete.

My first beer was Spitting Feathers Thirst Quencher, a 3.9% ABV pale ale. The first Spitting Feathers Brewery Tap opened in Chester in 2008. The West Kirby Tap opened in 2014. The friendly staff looked after us well and the wood burner made this part of the room cosy.

Wall-mounted candle holders and wood panelling are among other design features to give the large space some character.

Before leaving I enjoyed a Triple Blond by Peerless Brewing from Birkenhead. Typically for this part of the country, the beer takes a while to clear after being served through a sparkler. The 4% ABV beer is brewed with wheat, lager and pale malts and hopped with Admiral, First Gold and Cascade to give a citrus finish.
The size of our group now halved as Jon Gadd would lead some to West Kirby's micropub, the Homebrew Tap where cask and keg beers were available. Our core group caught the next train back over the flat countryside as far as Birkenhead North. Crossing to the other platform by the footbridge we then caught the New Brighton train to its terminus.

A mermaid combing her hair on the corner of Atherton Street and Victoria Road was a surreal surprise! An information board names her as the Inked Siren of Black Rock, the second mermaid in an unusual trail.

The Bow-Legged Beagle

In a change from the mapped itinerary after new information of a micropub in New Brighton, we continued along Victoria Road until we reached the Bow-Legged Beagle at number 88.

A 'contemporary timber' look inside with exposed filament light bulbs.

A tall beer fridge contains tall (440ml) beer cans from Loka Polly, Top Rope and Neptune Brewery.

I enjoyed cask American Dream, dry hopped with Citra, from Liverpool's Top Rope Brewing.

The Stage Door Tap

From here, it was downhill to sea level where we found the Stage Door Tap bar of the Queen's Royal hotel. The Stage Door has six cask ale taps and bar food is available every day.

By now it was almost 3pm but we were still able to take advantage of the bar food menu in comfortable and friendly surroundings.

Later, the 'stragglers' from West Kirby caught up with us here and found space on high tables at the other end of the room.

Framed photos comprising the 'all star gallery' adorn the walls of the Stage Door Tap.
The beer I enjoyed here was Hawkshead Iti, a 3.5% ABV NZ Pale Ale named after the Maori word for little and served in good condition.

Before leaving, the Stage Door's lovely Vicky humoured me by posing with a copy of Ullage, the West Berkshire CAMRA magazine, that I had brought with me to leave at the pubs we visited.

New Brighton lighthouse and Fort Perch Rock

From the Stagedoor Tap, I led one group to walk along the promenade to the Magazine Hotel while another group would head to the Lazy Landlord micropub by bus.
Immediately we noticed the New Brighton Lighthouse (also known as Perch Rock Lighthouse and called Black Rock Lighthouse in the 19th century) which is near to Fort Perch Rock built in the 1820's to protect the port of Liverpool.

About ten minutes later, after turning south to follow the west bank of the river Mersey we noticed the Black Pearl pirate ship / play project.

The Magazine Hotel

After about another ten minutes walk we reached the Magazine Hotel, set back from the promenade and in an elevated position.

A hat tip to Good Beer Guide blogger Martin Taylor who messaged me from @NHS_Martin on Twitter recommending a visit to the Magazine 'a Bass stronghold!'.

However, I chose a 'LocAle' pint from the other permanent cask ale on the bar - Brimstage Brewery Trapper's Hat. Taking advantage of the CAMRA discount, a pint cost £2.88.
The front bar has an unobstructed view across the river Mersey towards Bootle and Liverpool.

Knowing that Martin appreciates beer glass lacings as well as Bass I took a photo for this blog post with his readership in mind.
Music playing at the Magazine on this visit included Human by the Killers.

The Magazine is a multi-room pub but one additional photo which shows the bar must suffice for this post.
The light had gone from the sky when we left in time to catch the (last) 5.30pm bus (106) from Magazine Brow, opposite the Pilot Boat pub to Liscard. We decided to forego a visit to the Lazy Landlord and instead caught a second bus from Liscard to Woodside Interchange, our arrival point on the Wirral from the morning ferry.

Gallaghers Traditional Pub

From here it was only a three minute walk to Gallaghers Traditional Pub at 20 Chester Street, Birkenhead. The moustachio'd face on the pub sign references its former dual purpose role as a pub that included a barbers shop.

The frontage may be narrow but the pub stretches back a long way inside with two steps up to the bar area which is situated half way along.

Interestingly, the pub is decorated with bunting and a variety of naval and military uniforms, pictures and paraphernalia.

As grapefruit flavours appeal to me, I enjoyed a pint of Salopian Brewery Hop Twister (£3.30) here.

Glen Affric Brewery & Taproom

We left at 7.30pm to walk to Glen Affric Brewery & Taproom, less than ten minutes further up Chester Street.

Unlike Gallaghers Traditional Pub, Glen Affric was brightly lit inside.

There were no cask ales but a range of twelve Glen Affric beers served from a tap wall.

Faced with this wide choice it was easy to choose Hop Projections, a New England IPA, my current favourite style with low bitterness (20 IBU). For a 6.5% ABV beer this was reasonably priced at £3.75 for 2/3 pint. Music played in the Taproom appropriately included R.E.M. Shiny Happy People.

Thanks to tankard, I was privileged to be invited to join a table in a booth next to the brewery with Trevor McCormick and learn more about the family brewery that also involves his sons Craig and Calum and wife Alison.

Trevor McCormick (Photo: tankard)

I passed Trevor a copy of Ullage magazine mentioning that if features Wild Weather based in the West Berkshire CAMRA branch area. Trevor kindly offered a brief impromptu tour of the Glen Affric brewery and tankard and Mark were keen to take up his offer which included a look at the whisky barrels to be used for barrel aged beers.

After the tour we were also treated to a taster of some freshly canned beers - Payload Pale and Atomic Orange.

I had noticed that there was a Wild Weather / Elusive Brewing beer - Led Balloon - in one of the fridges at the Taproom. Some prior Facebook research had also showed that Iain Clarke of Wild Weather had been on a panel of brewers with Glen Affric's Angus Morrison at the #UKBeerDebate held at Green Duck Beer Co in Stourbridge on 2 December 2018.
Tornado Top Hat (banana split hefeweizen) and Thunder Trilby (grapefruit sour IPA) are previous Wild Weather / Mad Hatter Brewing Co collaboration beers. Angus Morrison was head brewer at Mad Hatter until October 2018 when it closed.
It was a pleasure to be introduced to Angus who is now Head Brewer at Glen Affric brewery later in the evening. Angus is an afficionado of Belgian beers and recommended a visit to Het Anker in Mechelen. In turn, I suggested a visit to Hof ten Dormaal.

Ss Brewtech pilot kit and Angus Morrison (Photo: Mark Geeson)

(In the months after this visit, Iain Clarke and Mike Tempest of Wild Weather would brew a collaboration passionfruit and mango sour beer at Glen Affric Brewery on 1 March 2019.)

A visit to Birkenhead's Stork Hotel had earlier been mooted but based on the latest reports from some who had visited the ornate pub before arriving at Glen Affric we decided instead to head back to Liverpool at 9.15pm.

Birkenhead Town Hall, eastern end of Hamilton Square

The Baltic Fleet

Our walking route from the taproom to Hamilton Square station was via Hamilton Square, the Georgian square that boasts the most Grade 1 listed buildings outside London (Trafalgar Square).
We caught a train under the river Mersey to James Street, the next station. From here we walked south, passing Salthouse and Wapping docks, to the Baltic Fleet at 33a Wapping.

The Baltic Fleet's unusual unusual triangular shape, with a curved apex facing north, provides plenty of windows.

It was busy inside but we found tables on the east side of the central bar near a warming stove.

My pint of Commando, from Southport's Parker Brewery was even better value when the CAMRA discount was applied (£3 pint).

Note the Northern style creamy head and appearance of the beer just after it had been pulled through a sparkler for dispense.
The Baltic Fleet was a good final pub of the evening where the knowledgeable bar staff were happy to answer our questions and provide information about local breweries.
At closing time we only had a ten minute walk from here back to our hotel.