Liverpool 2024 - first visits

We arrived in Liverpool about 6pm on a Sunday evening and battled against strong winds for the short walk from James Street station to the nearby Travelodge on The Strand, situated between the iconic Liver Building and Liverpool One bus station.

Azvex Brewing Company Taproom

After hotel check in, the first priority was to visit Azvex taproom which closes at 8pm on Sundays until reopening on Thursday. It was a blustery walk of just over a half mile and the illuminated sign led us to the door at Unit 16, Gibraltar Row.

The taproom end of the high-ceilinged industrial unit has a contemporary look with yellow chairs for long tables and higher grey chairs ranged along the bar.

Twelve beers are listed on black slates showing the beer style and price per pint or 2/3 pint, depending on style and strength. The range included Dockers Umbrella Helles Lager, The Cake is a Lie 12.5% ABV Imperial Stout and Mana-Wild Berry Smoothie Sour.

Tasters were available and we ordered half pints of Electronic Butterfly and Magnificent Tree Frog. The cost for the two pale ales, served in branded tumbler glasses, was £5.40. 

N.B. Due to medication affecting Tim's taste on this trip, there are no tasting notes in this post.

The stainless steel conical fermenters line one wall and other brewing vessels are in a central area of the roped off brewery area of the unit.

There is a tall glass-fronted fridge near the beer taps end of the bar where customers can select canned beers to drink in or take away. We purchased two cans of Electronic Butterfly to take away.

On this occasion, there was no opportunity to visit the nearby tasting room of Carnival Brewing Co as Unit 3, Gibraltar Row, as it usually closes at 6pm on Sundays.

The Captain Alexander

First visited after a battle against strong winds on the walk back from Azvex Brewery taproom, The Captain Alexander, opposite James Street station, was the closest pub to our hotel and became a convenient place for evening meals and breakfasts. The pub is named after Captain Alexander Allan who founded the Allan shipping line in 1819.

The entrance lobby and open plan interior featured original artwork by Martin Kavanagh and a number of interesting displays in line with the J D Wetherspoon practice. One display mentions that the unique carpet pattern was inspired by a photo of the interior of an Allan Line ship - S.S. Scandinavian.

Service was good and several guest ales, including Titanic Plum Porter, were available at the bar (£2.72 pint).

The next morning there were blue skies and we met up for breakfast with several others from our group staying at the same hotel. After another windy walk to visit RIBA North to see a film as part of the temporary Tate Liverpool relocation, we would rejoin the group at Peter Kavanagh's after a bus journey starting from Liverpoool One bus station. Alighting at the eastern end of Myrtle Street, we stopped to look in The Caledonia before walking south down Catharine Street as far as Egerton Street. 

We passed Canning Street, a principal thoroughfare in the Georgian quarter and would later return this way en route to The Belvedere.

The Belvedere

100 metres further along Catharine Street is the junction for Falkner Street. Head west here and turning north after 50 metres you will find the entrance to The Belvedere at 8 Sugnall Street. 

Tim chose Release the Pressure (Nightjar Brew Co, Mytholmroyd) from the four cask ales on the bar. Four years previously, Tom Anderson was serving at Liverpool's Ship and Mitre when our group visited. It was a nice surprise when tankard recognised Tom behind the bar at the Belvedere and reminded him of our previous meeting, mentioned in a Liverpool 2019 post which features the photo that Tim took of Tom with a copy of Ullage magazine. Tom is a brewer and manager of the Belvedere so it is not surprising to find that our group was happy with the beers served.

A blackboard on the opposite wall to the bar lists a range of craft beers and lagers. There wasn't any comfortable seating in this room so our group took our beers (and Tim's pork pie @ £3.50) to the larger room at the other end of the pub. Soon afterwards Tom carried in a bag of logs and lit a fire to warm the room for us.

Here's a photo of our group in the 'Smoke Room'. Dennis (right insert) had just departed when the main photo was taken with Les taking his former place between tankard and Bod on the left and Mark on the right. Although the plants on the window sill looked real they proved to be rather good plastic versions.

The classic interior of this listed pub, featured in the CAMRA National Inventory of historic pub interiors, is complemented with other tasteful additions like framed black and white photos of Liverpool life from recent decades. There is much evidence of etched glass both for the main windows and internally.

We also had the benefit of overhearing the conversation Les had with a local customer who coincidentally was also familiar with Reading, a town that most of our group are more familiar with than Liverpool. We were treated to an explanation of how politics has evolved in Liverpool including its Irish links, a black community established long before the 'Windrush generation', antipathy towards the police ('Bizzies') and until the mid 1970s and a more conservative outlook than other Northern cities.

Those of our group who departed after only one beer also missed out on some live music after several musicians cleared a space for themselves on the other side of the room for a practice session. Using bound folders of music and lyrics their repertoire included: The Night Before (Beatles) Just Dropped In (Kenny Rogers et al) and Make Me Smile (Steve Harley / Cockney Rebel). 

The Belvedere hosts an Unplugged Open Mic night on Thursdays and a blackboard lists regular events on for other nights of the week.

Daylight was fading by the time the rest of us departed The Belvedere (photo above) and set off to meet up with Dennis and Jon at the Roscoe Head (previously visited by Tim in 2019). The fire had not been lit and after a beer there and some discussion about where to go next we settled on The Engineer / The White Hart as our next destination although this would involve retracing our steps to some extent.

The Engineer / The White Hart

The two pubs linked by a shared central conservatory area opened on 16 January 2024. They were not marked on Google maps yet but thanks to intelligence received by Dennis and Jon about the expanding 1936 Pub Company in Liverpool we knew to head for 23 Hope Street.

The Guide, Liverpool link has a report about the opening by the 1936 Pub Company which also operates The Vines and the Queen of Hope Street.

It is also possible to access both pubs from the entrance to The Engineer on Arrad Street which runs parallel.

Our group walked through the White Hart and the conservatory and found a ground floor table in the Engineer. There is a mish mash of furnishings and decorations (with twin themes of hand tools and alpine skiing) and a separate bar, with four cask ales, in this space.

If the beer range at The Engineer is not to your taste it is also possible to choose from a wider range of cask ales in the White Hart and take one back to your seat.

Tim was happy to see a framed Babar print at balcony level where there are several 'snug' rooms.

Beers may be served in dimple glasses at The Engineer which has branded beer mats to remind you which part of the pub you are in!

It was surprisingly busy on a Monday night for a pub which had only just opened although it had recently been featured in the Liverpool Echo.

From here we would make our separate ways to the next rendezvous, Doctor Duncan's, on foot or by bus.

Doctor Duncan's

Doctor Duncan's is now a Mikhail Group pub that operates several bars in Liverpool including The Brewery Tap in Cains Brewery Village. It's located at 1 St John's Lane, facing St John's Gardens between St George's Hall and the Ship & Mitre.

It was quiet on this Monday evening, a day when the pub's kitchen is closed. There is a Victorian pharmacy cabinet display inside and our group were seated in a dimly lit rear section of the pub.

There is another antique pharmacy cabinet mounted on a rear wall.

Alfred Waterhouse was the architect for the building which was completed in 1898. A room on the other side of the central bar has the original ornate tiles from the building's original use by the Pearl Assurance Company. After taking some photos, Tim and Meg soon departed in search of a pub with food but would return to Doctor Duncan's on Tuesday afternoon for a drink with Mark before his train back to London and their visit to the nearby Walker Art Gallery.

Earlier on Tuesday, after breakfast at The Richard John Blackler, the group had crossed Lime Street in the rain and headed to Ma Egerton's Stage Door, located at 9 Pudsey Street, directly behind the Liverpool Empire theatre.

Mark, Les, Jon and tankard pictured in the pub with a strong theatrical theme. Lancaster Black and Whakahari (Purple Moose) were the only two cask ales available. The piped music was played at quite a loud volume and the selection included Don Henley - The Boys of Summer.

The redeeming features of the pub for Tim was the art nouveau style fireplace (although not lit) and the interesting theatrical displays.

This post complements a Liverpool 2024 - revisits post mainly featuring Peter Kavanagh's, The Roscoe Head, The Vernon Arms and the Lion Tavern.

Liverpool (Baltic Triangle) - June 2022

Returning to Liverpool in June 2022, provided an opportunity to revisit the Baltic Fleet and to visit Black Lodge Brewing and Cains Brewery for the first time. 

The Baltic Fleet

First visited on a night in January 2019, it was nice to revisit the Baltic Fleet in daylight hours, on Monday 6 June.

The paintwork on the chimneys make them look like a ship's funnels. The main entrance is on the side furthest from the narrow end with a side door allowing access to the chained off outside seating area.

Four cask ales were available and I chose Cascade Pale Ale from Carnival Brewing Company (Liverpool). After some walking and a visit to Radical Landscapes at Tate Liverpool, it was a delight to find a beer exactly to my taste and a chance to sit down. The 4.2% ABV session pale is brewed with wheat and oats making it soft, sweet and fruity. (£4.20 pint / card payment only).

Two days later I would return to the Baltic Fleet, after a visit to nearby Black Lodge Brewing, and enjoy a glass of Brimstage Brewery (The Wirral) Trapper's Hat, an award winning 3.8% ABV golden ale. (£1.80 1/2 pint).

Cains Brewery and Bar

On Wednesday 8 June, after a day in Chester, I ventured to Cains Brewery and Bar, at the southern base of the extended Baltic Triangle. My visit was only days after the opening on 2 June and too soon for any beers from the new brewery to be available.

My pint of Ossett White Rat, a 4% ABV dry and hoppy pale ale was enjoyable but on the expensive side (£4.80). I had to ask for the glass to be topped up (photo after) and was not offered a choice of a glass without a handle - hey ho!

There is no doubt that little expense has been spared in furnishing the new Cains Brewery and Bar to a high standard. I liked the bare brick walls and high ceilings in the main bar and the view of the brewery but had a few gripes apart from the price of the beer and glassware. There were liberal amounts of greenery as decoration and features but it was all plastic! The music, that was played quite loudly, was not recognisable classic tunes or even anything unusual and interesting.

Hopefully, the quality of the new Cains Brewery beers will make Cains Brewery and Bar worthwhile visiting in future.

In any case, the surrounding Cains Brewery Village is worth a visit. This area, south east of Parliament Street and Grafton Street, is the home for several bars and food markets including those in the collage above.

There's also an Abbey Road mural by Paul Curtis that is an invitation to step into the frame for a photo opportunity!

My walking route to Black Lodge Brewing was not the one recommended by Google maps but it did allow me to see some buildings, murals and a statue that would have been missed otherwise.

Black Lodge Brewing

Access to Black Lodge Brewing is only possible via Kings Dock Street unless you know your way around the tunnels of Liverpool, one of which has a (usually!) blocked entrance nearby.

There were only a few customers when I arrived soon after 7pm. As it was a warm evening, the outside bar, housed in a 10 foot container, was in use as well as the interior bar.

Hannah and Daniel made me feel very welcome and served me with a glass of Start the Parade. This 4.2% ABV American Pale Ale is hopped with Citra, Simcoe and Mosaic and made a perfect start to my visit. 

The Craft Beer Expo glasses are for the popular event held at Black Lodge Brewing and (adjacent) Sub Rosa with the next one scheduled for 16-18 June 2022.

The keg beers are sensibly priced, based on 2/3 pint servings. The regular Black Lodge branded glasses have lines marked for 1/3 pint and 2/3 pint. A couple of cask ales are often also available from the main bar. My second beer, A Better Land, 4.8% ABV, was hopped with Amarillo and Azacca and I was assured that the Liverpool water is part of the explanation for its excellent quality.

I had a quick look inside the main bar / brewery and noticed that there was plenty of greenery, with real plants, in contrast to Cains Brewery and Bar!

Looking away from the bar you notice an unusual fire basket that was fashioned locally but looks as though it came from outer space! 

There was just time to order a third half pint before Black Lodge Brewing closed for the evening. This was a good moment to persuade Hannah and Daniel to pose with copies of West Berkshire CAMRA's Ullage magazine that I had been distributing. No Condition is Permanent is a 5% ABV juicy pale ale brewed with Citra & Idaho 7 hops. 

I could not have asked for better beers or more friendly hosts than I was privileged to enjoy on this memorable evening. Cheers!

The Bridewell

After stopping for a half pint at the Baltic Fleet, I headed north on Wapping and then right into Liver Street, the northern boundary of the Baltic Triangle. Passing beyond Park Lane, the eastern edge of the Baltic Triangle, the entrance to The Bridewell can be found at the corner of Argyle Street and Campbell Square.

Formerly a Victorian police station (note the blue lamp and pub sign), the cells are now used as seating areas and there is an enclosed patio area.

At the bar, my half pint of  Kirkstall Brewery Jasper (£1.85) tasted sour. It was easily exchanged for Kirkstall Brewery Three Swords, a 4.5% ABV extra pale ale brewed with three American hop varieties.

It was a new experience to pass the heavy cell door and sit inside a cell with a beer! Perhaps not the best venue for anyone prone to claustrophobia though!

With good music being played (Moby, Bahamas, The Smiths) it was an easy decision to order another half pint and stay a bit longer. The Kirkstall Brewery Virtuous (£2.50) 4.5% ABV session IPA was pale and dry. 

Among the interesting items displayed on the walls of the Bridewell is a poster for the Cassius Clay v Henry Cooper bout at Wembley in 1963 framed together with a signed photo collage. This was the match that Our 'Enery would lose in the fifth round having knocked down Cassius Clay near the end of the fourth round.

Returning my glass to the bar and noticing that Ossett Brewery Silver King was available on cask resulted in an extended stay for another half pint (£1.85). This is a fruity American Pale Ale (4.3% ABV).

Congratulations to Fiona and Dominic Hornsby, who took over the lease in 2019, as The Bridewell was awarded Pub of the Year 2022 by Liverpool & Districts CAMRA. The Denbigh Castle is their second Liverpool pub and is featured, with the Lion Tavern, in a companion post - Liverpool (Moorfields) - June 2022.

Other pubs South of Liverpool Central

The Philharmonic Dining Rooms is famed for the marble surrounded urinals in the Gents toilets. The pub is now managed by Nicholson's. I enjoyed a pint of Timothy Taylor's Landlord (£4.85 pint) on my visit. 

It was quiet on a Monday evening but well worth having a look around the various rooms to appreciate the historic and ornate interior. Cheers to the person who suggested Brahms and Liszt for facing rooms! CAMRA's Pub Heritage database has more details and photos of the pub's historic features.

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The Grapes at 60 Roscoe Street, on the corner with Knight Street, is also in the Georgian Quarter and not to be confused with the Grapes, Mathew Street in the Cavern Quarter.  From a wide choice of cask ales, I chose Chapter Brewing (Sutton Weaver, Runcorn) Kandata. The 4.7% ABV pale ale was smooth and fruity (£3.70 pint). In contrast to the Philharmonic, the Grapes was busy on a Monday night, downstairs and in the sheltered patio, above a recent extension to the side of the pub, designed by Huge Architects. 

Open to the sky, there was only the sound of multiple conversations in this space surrounded by Buddhas and potted plants. The Grapes is a pub for the young and the young at heart!

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While the Lime Kiln may lack character, it makes up for this with value and convenience. The modern Wetherspoon pub is near lively Concert Square and overlooks Fleet Street. It is only a short walk from Bundobust on Bold Street and Kazimier Garden on Seel Street. I had no complaints about the beers at the Lime Kiln (eg Weetwood Ales Cheshire Cat, a 4% ABV blonde ale for £2.10 pint; Peerless Brewing Co Brit Hop, a dry 4.7% ABV golden ale - seen in photo) or the evening meals and the breakfast bacon butties with unlimited coffee (£1.20 extra). My only gripe here would be the lack of beer mats, leading to sticky table surfaces.

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My previous visit to Peter Kavanagh's was on a Sunday afternoon in January 2019 and resulted in some interior photos (including the one above) appearing in a post for Beer Europe. On Wednesday 8 June 2022, my only photo would be of the pub's exterior with groups gathered at outside tables (see map / photo collage above). Once inside, all the cask ale pump clips were turned round except for Abbot Ale which was the only one available on this occasion. I pledged to return another day and embarked on a walk down busy Parliament Street to reach Cains Brewery Village. My subsequent tweet about this lack of cask ale choice elicited a courteous reply from the pub: 'Only got our delivery in today so cask has to settle, sorry about that we like to make sure you get a good pint.'.

More photos of the historic interior of Peter Kavanagh's are featured in CAMRA's Pub Heritage database.

[NB Note that all beer prices quoted were from Tim's visit to Liverpool 6-9 June 2022.]