Antwerp 2023 - first visits

Arriving in Antwerp on Thursday 29 June, after travelling from London to Brussels by Eurostar, the first bar we visited, with our luggage, was De Kroon van Hopland located between the impressive Antwerpen Centraal station and Hostel Pulcinella.

Arriving slightly before the 16:00 hrs opening time, we could watch Thomas perform the daily set up routine involving placement of the outdoor furniture followed by moving the chairs and stools off the marble table tops and onto the hard floor inside the corner bar.

As always, the first beer in Antwerp has to be a locally brewed Bolleke De Koninck. The complimentary nibbles were appreciated by David, Mark and Tim (photographer).

Before we left there was a chance for Tim Thomas to present Thomas T with West Berkshire CAMRA Ullage magazine and appreciate the coincidence of our shared initials. 

The bar has lots of interesting features including a steel sculpture over the entrance and the front of a Volvo car with illuminated headlamps hanging inside. A Threads post by @timofnewbury has more photos from our visit.

On Friday 30 June 2023, after a tram ride to 'Dublin' stop and a look at one of the tram 'traction' buildings (Brabo 2) designed by Van Belle & Medina architects, our group walked to Gaarkeuken 110 at Vosseschijnstraat 21. 

As mentioned by Regula Ysewijn in 'Belgian Cafe Culture', Gaarkeuken 110 is the last of the workmen's kitchens in the Port of Antwerp'. It is not open at the weekend so this was our last chance to visit on this trip.

The entrance is on the other side from the road used for port traffic and there is a large patio area outside the entrance.

Inside there is a long narrow space for tables with a long bar on most of one side. Decor includes dock related images and there is a group of framed drawings of ships on beer mats. Regula Ysewijn writes 'Britt tells me that they are a drawn by a ship's mechanic called Dante'.

Again tradition dictates that Bolleke De Koninck should be the first beer of the day! We had to wait a while for our beers to be served as the staff were constantly busy serving their regular customers. As steak and frites were delivered to an adjacent table it was hard not to feel an appetite for a keenly priced meal. Gaarkeuken 110 deserves a second visit and one timed to include a meal!

For more photos of this unspoilt institution see Tim's Threads post https://www.threads.net/t/Cuh1Zx3sUwL

On Saturday 1 July, after Les and I walked through the Botanical Gardens and the Saturday market on Theaterplein we met up with Simon to ride the escalators up to the top of the distinctive Museum aan de Stroom (MAS) for panoramic views of the city and docks on a dull and damp day.

On David's recommendation, our first bar visit of the day was to nearby Dr Beer at Adriaan Brouwerstraat 31. Instead of a Bolleke we chose from a beer menu which includes a wide range of bottled and canned beers as well as draught beers. Regular beers are listed under the headings: Alcohol free, Spicy, Fruity, Hoppy, Caramelly, and Sour.

Dr Beer is also a beer shop where CAMRA books can be found including Beer Breaks by Tim Webb.

There is a spacious and light interior that features oak beams, a colourful bar and real plants. There are large and smaller tables and distinctive flat cushions for the chairs.

Mark, David and Graham arrived later and in time to miss a heavy downpour after which the weather improved. Tim provided our helpful part time barman Dries with Ullage magazines and persuaded him to pose for a photo. On this occasion, we didn't get to meet Jeroen Peeters, the proprietor of Dr Beer, remembered by David from his December 2019 visit.

Find more photos of Dr Beer in Tim's Threads post: https://www.threads.net/t/CuktGTwtbD- 

It was good to see the Havenhuis / Port House with the Zaha Hadid addition from a closer viewpoint than in previous years on the way from Gaarkeuken 110 to Taverne 't Kerkschip on Friday 30 June. We were also able to climb the steps around another Van Belle & Medina designed tram traction building, partly visible on the left of the photo, taken from Straatsburg / Strasbourg bridge. 

Houtdok is halfway between Havenhuis and Cadix stops on the 24 tram route. Kerkschip St Jozef constructed of concrete during WWII is now permanently moored on the north quay of the dock. The ship now houses a church, a chapel and Taverne 't Kerkschip. 

Inside the tavern is a bar that looks as though it was made from a wooden lifeboat. Draught and bottled beers including the nearby Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie range are available at the bar. After our beers, we were kindly invited to view the chapel in stern of the ship and appreciate the thickness of it's concrete hull. The ship's church is only open for the Sunday service.

For more photos see Tim's post on Threads: https://www.threads.net/t/Cuo7dlxMrer

After a visit to the estimable Cafe Kulminator on Thursday 29 June, we headed to Dansing Chocola for an evening meal of Stoofvlees, witloof slaw and frites. Dansing Chocola is situated at 159 Kloosterstraat, at one corner of Willem Lepelstraat with Heilig Huisken on the other corner. We hadn't booked but were greeted and shown to a table inside near the bar and provided with a basket of bread and butter.

There are large windows on two sides of the room and plenty of unusual decor to provide interest while we waited for beers to arrive from the bar. Thanks to David for suggesting a visit to Dansing Chocola as we enjoyed good food, beer, service and value in a relaxing atmosphere.

Only 50 metres away from Dansing Chocola as the crow flies, but about 150 metres away on foot, we met up with Paul and Jennie at Cafe de Vischmijn on a street corner at Riemstraat 20. They had arrived in Antwerp on a later train and dined at Bier Central before this rendezvous.

The interior looked interesting especially the ceiling but we sat outside in a sheltered area and enjoyed glasses of cold tank fresh Duvel 666.

The owner found time to chat with our group. Yves Van Roy introduced tank beer at Cafe de Vischmijn in 2016 and his customers tell him that he serves the best Stella Artois and Bolleke De Koninck in Antwerp.

On Friday 30 June, after a second visit to Cafe Kulminator on this trip, and a meal at Paters Vaetje, we moved on to The Northerner, which Simon rates highly but this would be Tim's first visit.

Saison Dupont was our beer of choice here. Previously, Tim had asked Yves Van Roy if Cafe de Vischmijn stocked a Saison like Dupont but he was not aware of it. After checking he explained that Antwerp is a long way from Tourpes which is only 50 km from Lille and he prefers to stock locally brewed beers.

Enjoying his first visit to The Northerner, Tim chatted to Joachim who had served our beers. As a souvenir of our visit he accepted a copy of West Berkshire CAMRA Ullage magazine. 

Traditionally, our group would be in Antwerp for the Beer Passion Weekend festival in Groenplaats. The festival date was a week earlier in 2023 so another first for this group was to see Groenplaats (above) without the usual barriers enclosing the festival site. 

On Saturday 1 July, after a meal at a small Syrian cafe on Hoogstraat, our group headed to Cafe Ernst by the river Scheldt at Ernest Van Dijckkai 18. Cafe Ernst specialises in 'Craft Beer and Natural Wine' and has a contemporary style. 

We found a large table at the rear, near a spiral staircase. The draught beer list is on a blackboard and the full beer menu is on the pub's Untappd page. After a draught Zinnebir from Brasserie de la Senne, Tim enjoyed a fruity bottle of Viven Master IPA while sitting across from Jennie and Paul.

Simon's plan was to visit nearby Cafe Pardaf but as it was closing we continued past Brabo's Monument in the Grote Markt to Den Engel.

Loud music and a lively interior made it sensible to sit outside but at the cost of inhaling cigarette smoke in the breeze. We enjoyed glasses of La Chouffe Blond as demonstrated by Graham, Simon and Les above.

Writing about Den Engel in Belgian Cafe Culture, Regula Ysewijn mentions 'Den Engel is the only cafe in Antwerp to have a traditional Geuze corkscrew (geuzestoppentrekker)'. A daytime visit might be a better time to have a close look at the bar and interior of this popular cafe. One more reason to return to Antwerp!

Petra's Cafe was included in Regular Ysewijn's book as 'an institution in the port of Antwerp ... the cafe is the living room of the dockworkers waiting for work'. However things have changed, there are new exterior signs, new furniture and music with a North African sound. The beer range is minimal but Les and Tim enjoyed a morning coffee, served with a complimentary Belgian chocolate, before heading to MAS on Saturday 1 July. A panel on the end wall shows Petra's cafe as it was when frequented by dockworkers.

On Sunday 2nd July, their last day in Antwerp, heading for De Duifkens, Tim and David chanced upon the bronze sculpture of Den Deugniet (the rascal / naughty boy) on a concrete plinth. The rascal's cheeky image also appears on the Den Deugniet beer bottle label. The 7.5% ABV Blonde is brewed by Brasserie du Bocq, near Dinant. The small sculpture is on Korte Gasthuisstraat, a pedestrian street that runs north from the eastern end of Oudaan passing Frites Atelier. The original sculpture was by Luc Verlee (1976). Apparently often stolen, the current sculpture may be more recent. 

At De Duifkens, David chose an outside table with a pleasant view of tree-lined Graanmarkt and the sound of birds from a market stall with caged birds for sale.

The first beer since breakfast at the hostel had to be a Bolleke De Koninck. 

The interior of the pub has dark wood panelled walls and a floor with tiles of several colours. The lighting and clumsy placement of posters on the walls did not enhance the character of De Duifkens. David discovered that this is the Flemish word for pigeons and a wooden pigeon perches on the pub's exterior along with the artificial geraniums. 

Tim's Threads post has more photos including a doll whose face peers down from a hole in the ceiling and a beer menu: https://www.threads.net/@timofnewbury/post/CusE40Os5UQ

Antwerp - Saturday 23/6/2018

After breakfast on Saturday, I walked about two miles from Hostel Pulcinella, Bogaardestraat 1, to the new Brouwery Cafe de Seefhoek, Indiestraat 21.

Turning left from fashionable Hopland into Kipdorp Vest, I stopped for a photo of De Kroon van Hopland. This bar opened in 1910 and was noticeable for its steel sculpture and crowned devil sign above the corner entrance.

My walking route also passed the impressive dockside Museum aan de Stroom (MAS), previously visited in 2016 and 2017. 

Looking north from Londenstraat's bridge, where tram lines have recently been laid, it is possible to see the Port House, formed of a traditional building straddled by an angular glittering new structure, designed by Zaha Hadid Architects. 

On arrival at the Indiestraat 21 entrance to the Brouwery Cafe de Seefhoek, a tour group had stopped to hear about the history of this sizeable industrial building which also houses Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie.

A sign in the street indicates the entrance and that the Brouwery Cafe is open from Wednesday to Sunday at noon.

There are outside tables in the courtyard, some with shades.

Inside there are fermentation vessesl on the left, brewing vessels ahead with a bar in front and on the right a screen had been hung from a balcony to show FIFA World Cup games. Two photos were joined (above) to give a panoramic view.

The full range of Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie beers were available on draught. My first beer here was Super Cadix dry hopped lager, possibly named after Cadixstraat, the next parallel street to the south. This was reasonably priced at 3 euros.

As the others had not arrived at this rendezvous yet there was an opportunity for an indulgent selfie, to include the Super Cadix and highlight my Hop Stuff Brewery t-shirt and Allagash Brewing cap.

John, Simon, Richard, Andrew and Keith arrived in time for the start of the Belgium v Tunisia FIFA World Cup game at 2pm local time.

There was time to order other beers from the bar and the table top menu sheet gave a useful guide to styles, strengths and prices.

Keith Moore had participated in the Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie crowdfunding and this was a good reason for me to try the Crowd Funding Bier which was served in a chalice glass. This pleasant glass of 8% ABV Tripel Blond cost 3.5 euros. However, my favourite beer at the brewery on this occasion was Seefbier.

A technician made attempts to improve the quality of the image on the screen but with sunlight from the windows above he was fighting a losing battle. Happily for Belgium, they would win this match 5-2 although Simon and I departed at half time as an advance party for the Bierpassie Weekend festival. The yellow and green boxed area on the right of the photo (above) houses the toilets for the cafe. We were impressed by this cafe / taproom and with its helpful staff and interesting location in the docks area - it is well worth a visit.

We caught a No. 7 (blue line) tram from the current northern terminus 'Eilandje' to a stop near Groenplaats. Using prepurchased Lijn cards from De Lijn valid for 10 trips, each journey costs 1.60 euro.

BierPassie Weekend - day 2

Barry, Trish & Terry

Barry & Karen, Terry & Trish had arrived earlier at BierPassie Weekend and occupied a table on the east side of the festival enclosure at Groenplaats. Although Mark Geeson was not with us on this trip we had channelled his traditional snack provision service by bringing our own edible supplies for the table including an appreciated box of Ritz crackers. The festival was busy and it was nice to be able to sit down and rest our beers on a table. Thankfully it was warmer than Friday.

The BierPassie Weekend programme marks new beers to the festival with a red asterisk. Brasserie De Silly Green Killer IPA with dry hopping was the first of these to be sampled today, proving fairly bitter as appropriate for the style.

John, Richard, Keith and Andrew(Hilton Antwerp in background)

Eventually, the rest of our group turned up making our group ten strong.

Richard, Karen,Simon,Barry,Trish,Keith and Andrew

During the afternoon I enjoyed several good beers from the festival including Corsendonk Grand Hops and two beers from the Arthur's Legacy series developed at the De Hoorn microbrewery - No 13 Aerts 2016, hopped with Target and Golding and No 14 The boy from IPA.Nema hopped with Cascade, Simcoe and Target.

However, my favourites of the day at the festival were the Malheur 6 with spicy and citrus Saaz hop aroma and

Hapkin a powerful blonde beer with a floral touch of Saaz hop.

It is always entertaining to see different groups of drinkers pass by including stag and hen party groups. A disappointment to notice that the bride to be was offering wine and not beer to her group!

Our table was on the right side of the festival for listening to BigBand Ekeren playing lively music from the bandstand near the festival entrance.
As evening approached, Barry & Karen, Terry & Trish departed, to catch a train back to Brussels where they were staying. Their places at the table were soon filled.

CAMRA's Good Beer Guide Belgium suggests Billekletser, 22 Hoogstraat as an alternative to its former neighbour Antwaerps Bierhuyske which shut in July 2017. While I took 4 packs of beers from Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie and Brasserie du Bocq Saison 1858 back to the hostel, the rest of our group headed to Den Billekletser where I would meet them shortly.

In the basic corner bar of Den Billekletser, I enjoyed a flute style glass of Houblon Chouffe, the Brasserie d'Achouffe 9% abv IPA, hopped with three varieties.

The decor here included a framed collection of beer bottle tops.

From here it was only a two minute walk to De Groote Witte Arend, Reyndersstraat 18, where we all sat in the attractive courtyard and ordered 40 cl glasses of Kriek.
Our next stop, a few steps away, was a Jenever / Genever bar - De Vagant, Reyndersstraat 25, where I sensibly ordered coffee! 
On leaving, Simon and I persuaded the others to join us for their first visit to nearby Billie's Bier Kafetaria, Kammenstraat 12, where we would sit upstairs.

My last beer of the night at Billie's would be a Schelde Brouwerij Zeezuiper, a golden triple with notes of coriander.
The main group would now head to 'Argument Square' (Dageraadplaads) with late bars, like Cafe ZeeZicht, near their hotel (Tryp by Wyndham).