Transferring to Brussels on day four would bring first visits to Gist and Au Laboureur as well as repeat visits to old favourites Poechenellekelder, Delirium Cafe (Hoppy Loft) and Moeder Lambic Fontainas.
Steve and I caught the 11.40 Antwerp Central (top level) to Brussels Midi train arriving 12.31. The standard single fare is 7.40 euros. It took a while to get through the sprawling Sunday market between Brussels Midi / Zuid station and Boulevard Maurice Lemonnier and then it was another 500 metres along the shady side of the street to reach
Hotel Barry at Place Anneessens.
We could leave luggage in our rooms before continuing past Moeder Lambic Fontainas, Mannekin Pis and Poechenellekelder to reach
Gist at Place de la Vielle Halle aux Bles.
As Gist (meaning Yeast in Dutch) was closed we retraced our steps down Rue du Chene, passing a mural, to reach
Poechenellekelder.
Plenty of people were seated at outside tables but we climbed the spiral stairs to find a table near the small bar.
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| (Photo: Steve Kelly) |
By now it was 1.30pm and I ordered a coffee while Steve chose a 37.5 cl bottle of
Oude Geuze Boon from Brouwerij Boon (7.70 euro). Bottles of the 7% ABV 'blend of 90% mild 18 month-old lambic, 5% strong 3 year-old beer and 5%
very young lambic, which provides fermentable sugars and wild yeasts' are given a best before date 20 years after the bottling date. Steve commented 'Sour. Lovely' on
Untappd.
Poechenellekelder is famed for its collection of puppets and figures and also has a fine collection of enamel beer signs. A puppet on stilts attached to the hand rail jiggles his head everytime anyone touches the hand rail when using the stairs to reach the toilets downstairs!
My first beer was
Saison de Dottignies by Brouwerij de Ranke from the draught beer menu.
When Simon Grist joined us, having travelled on a later train from Antwerp, we ordered lunch. A Croque Monsieur sans jambon for Steve while lasagne was 'the usual' for me and Simon. The lasagne takes a while to cool down and eventually I nearly finished mine.
I stayed with the saison beer style by ordering a bottle of
IV Saison by
Brasserie Jandrain-Jandrenouille (6.5% ABV, 4.20 euro) as the last beer here. This is the original beer produced at the brewery since 2007 in a rural location midway between Brussels and Liege.
At 4.15pm we walked back up Rue du Chene to meet up with John, Keith and Richard at
Gist which had opened at 3pm.
An outside board by the entrance lists the beers on tap including two on cask.
Inside, the two handpumps are just visible behind a blackboard propped up against them. An elevated stainless steel box section houses the taps for the other draught beers.
The interior includes a mixture of seating and a variety of posters and artwork on the white walls. There are two record decks with LPs underneath at the far end of the bar. Some loud frenzied music was playing that meant it was more relaxing to sit outside. However Steve liked the music here and the music played later was more acceptable to my ears.
Opposite the bar is more seating with sections of blackboard above to display the draught beers individually.
Outside our pavement tables gave a view of Place de la Vielle Halle aux Blés which contains a statue of
Jacques Brel. This was visited by passing tourists posing for selfies and further distraction arose from vehicles passing and then reversing nearby after finding that Rue du Chene was closed to traffic.
We spent three hours here and the beers I enjoyed from the draught menu were
Mongy Session IPA (4% ABV) by Brasserie Cambier based near Lille,
Lupulus Blanche the permanent white beer at Gist and the cask version of Brasserie de la Senne
Taras Boulba.
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| Simon with Jenlain & Jody |
After my tip to visit the bar, Simon Grist had spent several hours at Gist on Thursday evening and spoken with the owners Jenlain and Jody. Today it was my chance to chat with them. Jenlain explained that they are able to sell casks of beer within three days so that the quality is maintained. They also check the cask beer carefully each day and will not serve it if the quality has deteriorated.
They started with some casks from the London brewers
Anspach & Hobday and are able to use the empty casks to source Belgian beers from Brasserie de la Senne,
L'Ermitage and
No Science amongst others. Jenlain mentioned that they expect to be involved with serving cask beer at the
BXL BeerFest at Tour & Taxis, Brussels on 24-25 August, 2019. Jenlain was interested to see the programme for
BierPassie Weekend that we had attended in Antwerp but thought that the festival's 20cl servings were on the large side.
The
Gulp // Cask Ale comes to Brussels post by Brussels resident
Eoghan Walsh about Gist which had led to our visit includes details of the Gulp cask festival held there on a Friday in May 2019.
It was time for Simon to go to Brussels Midi to catch his Eurostar train back to London so he departed at about 7.15pm. While John, Keith and Richard were keen to visit Poechenellekelder for lasagne and then move to Delirium Cafe's Hoppy Loft, Steve and I had an alternative plan and would meet them at the Hoppy Loft later. Before leaving we had to get photos at the Jacques Brel statue!
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| Au Daringman |
Steve and I walked to Au Labourer via Galeries Royales Saint Hubert pausing for a glance at
A la Mort Subite.
Contnuing, we passed Saint Catherine church and then along narrow Rue du Flandre passing
Au Daringman at 37, the corner with Rue du Chien Martin.
A la Mort Subite, Au Daringman and Au Laboureur are all featured in
Regula Ysewijn's book as authentic Belgian cafes. A visit to Au Daringman is on the cards for my next visit to Brussels.
Au Labourer, Rue du Flandre 108, is at the northern end, at the junction with Rue du Marche au Porcs.
Regula Ysewijn writes 'Today we find an early 1920s decor with wooden wall panelling and a matching bar, all made by Henri Houbaer from Koekelberg, who also created the interior in other Brussels cafes around this time. On the outside of the bar you still find the traditional geuze corkscrew, I have never seen it in such a prominent spot.'
With prominent advertising for
Papegaei from Brouwerij Verstraete this was an 8% ABV strong blonde ale that we both ordered. It is brewed with barley, wheat, oats and fresh hops
by Adam Verstraete at the Deca brewery in Woesten, near Ypres. We sat at a table inside to avoid most of the traffic noise outside but all the doors and windows were open on this warm evening. The distinctive music playing on the sound system was by Alain Bashung (1947-2009) from En Amont, his last studio album, released posthumously in 2018.
We left at 9.15pm and stopped to take a photo of the Cubitus mural that faces Au Laboureur from across Rue du Marche au Porcs. The scene is of the Mannekin Pis statue but Mannekin's position has been usurped by Cubitus the dog and he is the spectator by the railings.
On the way to Delirium Village we stopped for some Asian food at a new minimalist cafe / restaurant in Rue du Flandre that Steve had spotted with an illustrated vegetarian menu displayed in the front window
Crossing the pedestrianised Boulevard Anspach, Steve noticed the bicycle wheels suspended across the street in connection with the Tour de France which would start from Brussels within a week.
We arrived at Delirium Cafe, Impasse de la Fidélité 4, at about 10pm.
We climbed the steps from the entrance to reach the Hoppy Loft and find the others sat at one of the tables with a top made from a wagon wheel in the dimly lit room.
From the list of 20 draught beers above the bar, I enjoyed a 25cl glass of Zero San, a Brut IPA dry hopped with Nelson Sauvin from
Reservoir Dogs (Nova Gorica, Slovenia) costing 5.60 euros.
There were two other beers from Reservoir Dogs, four beers from
Oitava Colina (Lisbon, Portugal) and three beers from
Beerstorming (Brussels) amongst others.
The Hoppy Loft has plenty of brewery enamel signs on display and there are more on the passageway that leads to the toilets.
One of the cheapest beers (3.80 euros / 25cl) was
Delirium Tremens by Huyghe Brewery and this seemed a good reason to reacquaint myself with it!
When the Hoppy Loft closed we joined the lively crowd in the passageway outside.
Impasse de la Fidélité is the location for Jeanneke Pis fountain and statue, protected by railings, another photo opportunity!
Moeder Lambic Fontainas is on the way back to Hotel Barry from Delirium Village and this is where I enjoyed my final beer of the night - Noisy Pale Ale brewed by No Science. The 6% ABV Belgian IPA (60 IBU) is brewed with Challenger and Mosaic hops. This was a recommendation from Jenlain of Gist who had called in to his old workplace for a beer. Jenlain pointed out the six handpumps against the wall at the back of the bar and mentioned that he had been involved in expanding the range of beer styles served from these pumps. He also pointed out that there is only limited storage capacity for beers to be served from the handpumps but that KeyKegs could be accommodated.
With music by the Handsome Family playing on the sound system it was nice to be able to sit at the bar with good beer and good music. As usual the Moeder Lambic staff were reliably professional.
Hotel Barry is only 250 metres away and I would sleep soundly despite the residual heat and lack of air conditioning in my room.
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