Beer in Brussels - Sunday 3 July 2022

 

Simon and Tim travelled from Antwerp to Brussels Midi by train and then walked through a busy Sunday market and then along Avenue de Stalingrad to reach Cafe Bebo at its northern end, where it joins Place Rouppe.

While Tim checked into economical and nearby Hotel Barry, Simon enjoyed a glass of Duchesse De Bourgogne at a pavement table. (Simon's luggage had already been deposited at the station in readiness for his evening departure by Eurostar to London).

It is only a short walk from Place Rouppe to Place Fontainas.

Tim's first beer in Brussels would be served inside at Moeder Lambic (Fontainas) where it was not busy and the background music was mainly Europop.

While Simon (above) enjoyed a glass of Quetsche Tilquin, Tim enjoyed a glass of Troubadour Magma NEIPA. These were poured from two of the forty or so taps.

There are now two banks of taps at the back of the bar and two more banks on the bar itself. 

With so many taps for a wide choice there are few bottles listed on the daily beer menu.

It is now 'bar service' and it appears there are no longer any handpumps at Moeder Lambic for cask beer. Some seats near the entrance have been removed to make way for a raised and tiled space, perhaps intended as an open storage area? 

Moeder Lambic (Fontainas) must surely be an essential destination for any beer enthusiast's Brussels visit.

With an evening train to catch, Simon was keen to visit nearby Poechenellekelder and enjoy a lasagne meal in advance of our friends, who were catching a later train from Antwerp to meet up with us at Brasserie de la Mule.

Situated near the Mannekin Pis tourist hotspot, all the tables in the courtyard were taken so we sat inside, near the stairway leading up from the entrance, with music from a talented singer-guitarist just outside providing a good background.

From the extensive beer menu, Simon chose Brouwerij De Dolle Brouwers Oerbier and Tim chose Orval (after finding that V Cense from Brasserie de Jandrain-Jandrenouille was not available).

Our drinks were professionally poured and served with a small bowl of complimentary snacks. Simon could not finish his lasagne, served with a generous basket of bread so Tim also had something to eat before his evening meal! As usual, Poechenellekelder did not disappoint and is another essential Beer in Brussels destination.

On the way to the tram stop to take us to Schaerbeek, we walked up Rue du Chene and passed Gist and the statue of Jacques Brel at Place de la Vieille Halle au Bles. Tim would revisit Poechenellekelder and Gist in the evening. 

Tram 92 runs from Palais to Pogge and we arrived at Brasserie de la Mule, 95 Rue Reubens, soon after 5pm.

The building was once a tram depot and stable for the horses that once pulled them. The courtyard furniture is made from wooden pallets and cable drums. Tim's first beer (above) was Straight Saison (6% ABV) served in a tall wheat beer style glass with good value at 5 euros for 50cl.

It was good to meet up again with the 'usual suspects' from Antwerp although Dave had travelled on to Amsterdam instead. Out of service trams are still stored behind the old tram depot - as visible in the photo.

Inside, the Bar de la Mule is a large space with a vaulted ceiling and seating areas at both ends. Table football can be played at the end which leads to the courtyard at the side.

Brewery vessels and the canning line can be seen before entering the bar area and when leaving. 

With a train to catch, Simon was the first to leave. Before the rest of us left at 7.30pm there was time for another tall beer (an amber coloured Hefe Weisse Naturtrüb for Tim).

There was also time to speak to Guillaume who had single-handedly managed the bar all day. Tim left a copy of West Berkshire CAMRA Ullage magazine with him for customers to read.

Note that live music and other events are often held at Brasserie de la Mule and event details are updated on Facebook.

A photo opportunity for Tim (Thomas) as the group of four reached Thomas tram stop, at the junction of Rue du Progres and Avenue Philippe Thomas.

Tram 3, south towards Churchill, would take us to Beurs. Esplanade is the northern terminus on this route. Presenting an enabled contactless bank card to the reader onboard charges 2.10 euros for an hour's travel on the STIB-MIVB network. 

We passed some Tintin street art in Rue de l'Etuve, just south of Rue du Lombard, as we approached Poechenellekelder.

Tim was happy to revisit Poechenellekelder and to sit outside this time.

He chose Moinette for his first evening beer. This time there was no complimentary bowl of snacks to nibble. This Brasserie Dupont 8.5% ABV flagship beer was created in 1955.

Here's a photo of Tim's lasagne at Poechenellekelder from a 2019 visit. Once again it was a popular meal choice. Unlike the afternoon visit, there was no basket of bread accompaniment on this occasion. It was generous of Richard to pay for all our meals. He was feeling rich after patting a different pocket while at Brasserie de la Mule and discovering that the wallet which he had thought had been pickpocketed, while on the tram to Schaerbeek earlier, had not been stolen after all!

With its collection of wooden puppets, there is always something unusual to photograph on the route to the toilets at Poechenellekelder. These are reached after negotiating stairs up from the entrance and then down to the basement from bar level. 

It was deja vu again for Tim as the group walked up Rue du Chene but this time we would find a table inside Gist which was dimly lit. It was good to see a handpump in action here even though not placed in the most ergonomic position on the bar!

There have been several changes since a previous visit to Gist in 2019 when it was run by Jenlain and Jody - see previous post. The loud music from vinyl records has been toned down and the decor has changed.

The new decor includes cymbals as shades for lighting fixtures.

Gist is now an Untappd verified venue and details of available beers can be checked online. 

Tim received a 'Gist Brussels Family' badge after checking in his first beer (Blanche Cassis by Drogenbos) on the Untappd app (as timofnewbury).

Despite its name, Urine a 7% ABV DIPA collaboration between Brasserie du Borinage and Bastard Brewers tasted good and was served in a can shaped branded glass.

Although Gist was not busy later on, the helpful staff kept the bar open until the advertised closing time of midnight on Sunday.

Note that a range of Brasserie de la Mule canned beers, with colourful labels by AMMO illustration, are available at Gist.

Gist has become another essential Beer in Brussels bar to visit, especially for craft beer enthusiasts!

The regularly updated Brussels Beer City blog by Eoghan Walsh has more news about beer in Brussels and is highly recommended.

Eoghan's latest book 'A History of Brussels Beer in 50 Objects' includes #49 Brasserie de la Mule Hefe Weisse.

Antwerp 2022 - Groenplaats area

Bierpassie Weekend at Groenplaats - looking south + looking north

Groenplaats and the streets to the north like Melkmarkt and Wolstraat include the site of the annual Bierpassie Weekend festival with access to several good beer cafes, food outlets and coffee shops.

Entrance to the Bierapassie Weekend costs 10 euros and includes a programme, tasting glass and two beer tokens (each with 3 euro value for a a 20 cl serving). 

The 'usual suspects' were there soon after the 5pm opening time on Friday. Members of our group would also visit on Saturday afternoon, Saturday evening and Sunday lunchtime.

As most Belgian beers are stronger than 5% ABV, it makes sense to sample smaller quantities especially as some beers are only available in 75cl bottles, eg Brasserie Dupont Bons Voeux.

Glasses are routinely rinsed or replaced before each beer is served. Breweries staff their own stands and at quiet times are happy to chat about the beers served.

Richard, Simon and Dave choosing their next beers from the programme

At busy times, free bench places at a table with a parasol are rare so it makes sense to attend at quieter times especially if it's sunny. Bring a cushion if you want any comfort!

Andrew, Simon, Keith & Richard (Saturday evening)

When no benches are available, there may be a standing place with a table.

Tim enjoyed a Martin's Pale Ale at Bierpassie Weekend on Saturday afternoon.

Some of the bars and wagons were impressive including Lindemans and Omer.

Cafe de Kat

On Saturday night, Keith and Richard headed back on the tram (11) to Dageraadplaats from the Melkmarkt stop while Andrew, Dave, Simon and Tim continued further to Cafe de Kat, Wolstraat 22, which the tram also passes as it loops back from the Melkmarkt terminus.

De Kat is one of the iconic cafes featured in Regula Ysewijn's book Belgian Cafe Culture. She writes that 'Until very recently no man has ever worked here' mentioning that it was around 1912 when the first landlady Aurelia gave the cafe its name. 

She also mentions that apart from the marble topped tables, all the interior dates from that period including the bar, the piano and mirrored wall panelling which were designed to match and have the same inlaid detail.

While Tim enjoyed a draught Bolleke De Koninck, the others could not resist Boon Geuze for 3.60 euros.

Other beer bars, food outlets and coffee bars in the area

Andrew and Dave left in time to catch the last tram back to Dageraadplaats for Cafe Zeezicht and Tryp Hotel while Simon was keen to visit The Northerner nearby. Walking there with Simon, we passed historic Quinten Matsijs, adorned with vines, on Hoofdkerkstraat, next to Cafe De Kat. 

Simon later reported that he enjoyed his solo visit to The Northerner, a new beer bar at Wijngaardstraat 7 specialising in Belgian and craft beers. 

Cafe Pelikaan (rear courtyard), Friday 2 July

On his way to the Groenplaats tram stop, Tim passed Cafe Pelikaan, Melkmarkt 14, not for the first time on this visit. This is another beer cafe featured in Regula Ysewijn's book. Cafe Pelikaan was also featured in a Beer Europe post after a 2019 visit.

The area has many fast food outlets including two with indoor seating that were convenient and good value.

Only Kebap, Korte Koepoortstraat 9 - for doner kebab wraps and chips etc.

Pizarro, Melkmarkt 25 - for New York style pizza slices.

Among coffee bars in the area, the Tartoer Vespa Coffee Bar at Korte Koepoortstraat 2, stands out for having an actual Vespa scooter on display above the bar, and offers seating inside and outside.

For more Antwerp background material please see Antwerp - The Usual Suspects 2022 and other linked posts from there.

Antwerp 2022 - Hoogstraat area

Hoogstraat is a pedestrian street that runs south from the Suikerrui / Grote Markt junction to St-Jansvliet which hosts a Sunday market and has the entrance to Sint-Annatunnel, the pedestrian tunnel under the river Scheldt.

Het Souke

Het Souke (formerly 't Half Souke) is at 59 Hoogstraat on the corner with Heilige Geest. It was featured in Regula Ysewijn's book Belgian Cafe Culture with a photo of Leentje, the cafe landlady standing on the uneven tiled floor. Closed when I last visited in 2019, an online report for Algemeen Dagblad dated 4 July 2021 mentions that Leentje had to move to a care home and the cafe was bought by Nathan Gouka and is now managed by his son Jacob. 

They have improved the cafe by laying a flat floor and installing a wide sash window that opens up onto Hoogstraat. 

The mirrors on the inside wall have been retained but the decor has changed with record album covers over the bar and a rack for newspapers and music magazines.

For tradition, a Bolleke De Koninck (Antwerp Pale Ale) was my first beer in Antwerp on a wet Thursday evening (30 June). The wet weather would explain why I had the cafe to myself until Andrew, Keith and Richard joined me.

In addition to the beers listed on the board, there were some bottles displayed on the bar. After a chat with Jacob, I opted for Steenuilke, a sweet blond beer from Brouwerij De Ryck (Herzele) which suited my taste.

On arrival, the music playing included some psychedelic tracks (Monterey by the Animals - 1967, Mind Flowers by Ultimate Spinach - 1968, Gold and Silver by Quicksilver Messenger Service - 1968) that also suited my taste so I was glad when the 'usual suspects' also enjoyed the ambience and we had a further round of beers - draught De Koninck Triple D'Anvers for me.

Before leaving I left a copy of West Berkshire CAMRA's Ullage magazine with Jacob and he kindly posed with it before placing it in the rack. Thankfully it had stopped raining by the time we left Het Souke.

Het Souke is an updated traditional cafe with strong musical links and is recommended for anyone with eclectic musical tastes.

De Vagant

Traditionally, the 'usual suspects' would visit De Vagant, Reyndersstraat 25, for jenevers after lunch and beers at De Groote Witte Arend, on the other side of the street. However, De Groote Witte Arend, housed in a convent building with a courtyard, has changed to Pannenkoekenhuis Familie Suykerbuyck so we did not visit this year.

With its high ceiling, traditional floor tiles, tall windows, traditional furniture and stripped back decor, De Vagant seems airy and timeless. 

Since our last visit the range of jenevers has been cut and the range of beers has increased making the menu easy to navigate. My first beer of the day was a draught Bolleke De Koninck and there was a chair waiting for me at an inside table occupied by the usual suspects.

Simon, Andrew, Dave + Bart with Ullage + Keith & Richard

With La Chouffe on tap and sufficient matching glassware we were able to give Bart, our considerate host, a simple order sometime later.

a glass of jenever for John Reynor RIP

The others also ordered jenevers and Dave ordered a jenever for absent John Reynor. Sadly, John passed away in 2021 as a result of sepsis. It was Dave and John who attended the first Bierpassie Weekend in 2000. Others would join this group in later years (as the junior member of this group, I had not met Dave on my four previous visits - from 2016 to 2019). 

Before leaving De Vagant, Bart kindly offered to photograph our group and at this point we had ordered further beers (including my Adriaen Brouwer Tripel by Brouwerij Roman of Oudenaarde) and shared John's glass of jenever with a toast to him. It was generous of Dave to pay the final bar bill of 144 euros. Cheers!

Subsequent research identified a post by VRT, the Flemish Radio and Television Broadcasting Organisation, mentioning that De Vagant closed on Sunday 5 December 2021 due to the age of manager Ronald Ferket. The jenever collection above the cafe went to the jenever museum in Hasselt.

Our next stop was TOTA, 24 Hoogstraat, for authentic Argentinian empanadas.

De Ware Jacob

Facing south, De Ware Jacob is at Vlasmarkt 19. The 2022 opening times are displayed in the window (Tue - Fri  / di-vr: 15:00, Sat - Sun / za-zo: 14:00).

This was the Saturday late afternoon rendezvous for Simon (after returning from Linkeroever via Sint-Annatunnel), Andrew, Dave and Tim (after returning from Linkeroever via free pedestrian ferry) and Keith and Richard (after visiting Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie).

Simon was first to arrive and picked a pavement table next to an English couple. We chose bottled beers from the menu which includes beers from 9 local breweries still operating out of the 11 listed. 

Draught beers available include Brasserie Dupont Bons Voeux (9.5% ABV) and Sint Barnardus Abt. with an overall choice from 120 beers.

Simon & Dave (I ate all the pies) + Cabardouche Blonde Stoot

The introductory page mentions that De Ware Jacob (true Jacob) has only been a cafe since 1977. This information can also be gleaned from Regula Ysewijn's book Belgian Cafe Culture. She mentions that the interior is much older and was salvaged from other cafes. The bar came from a cafe in Brussels and the wooden wall panelling comes from another cafe in Antwerp. 

The house is a listed building which dates back to the 16th century during the Spanish rule.

Regula also writes that the steep stairwell you find in the back is from this period and is one of the very few 'pagaddertrappen' in Antwerp. On this visit I remembered to photograph the stairwell after a visit to the toilets at the back.

Before leaving, there was also an opportunity to ask the landlord his name (Guy, pronounced Gie) and ask about the word on his t-shirt - goegezjost. Guy explained that it was local dialect for someone who had been tricked or cheated. 

Guy at the wheel! - a page from the beer menu

Guy accepted a copy of West Berkshire CAMRA magazine Ullage in exchange for a Dutch Bierproefgids (Beer Tasting Guide) produced by Ariel Meeusen 'BierCoach' of City Beerwalk from a pile on a shelf inside the cafe.

See also the 2019 Antwerp post which includes photos taken then when Tim and Steve visited De Ware Jacob previously. 

This is another cafe with an appeal to music lovers as the background music is blues, rock, jazz and folk. The maritime details of the cafe's interior and the beer range that includes draught Bons Voeux served by Guy are additional reasons to visit. 

Our group would now split with Tim and Keith visiting the new location of Msemen for a Moroccan meal in the 34 Hoogstraat premises that were previously Aura Brasserie. The food is prepared in an open kitchen. There is now a small fountain in the quiet courtyard at the back.

For more Antwerp background material please see Antwerp - The Usual Suspects 2022 and other linked posts from there.