Liverpool (Moorfields) - June 2022

Returning to Liverpool after a previous visit in January 2019, I was keen to visit the Lion Tavern for the first time. In a reply on Twitter, Abi said 'Heartily recommend the Lion Tavern, Moorfields. Gorgeous pub.' On the late afternoon of Tuesday 7 June, after visiting Southport, Birkdale and Ainsdale, I left the Merseyrail train at Moorfields station and headed up the road.

The former Yates's Wine Lodge building caught my eye and I stopped to try and understand why there was a circular cut out section in the frontage. Noticing my interest, a passerby commented 'Weird, isn't it' and I had to agree! [Subsequent research shows the circular section was designed by sculptor Richard Wilson for the Liverpool Biennial in 2007. There is a video on YouTube showing the circular section rotating. Turning the Place Over closed in 2011.]

The Lion Tavern

Before entering the Lion Tavern, I investigated the impressive former Exchange Station building at the top of the road and determined that there was no access for the public. Research shows that the station closed in 1977 and was replaced by Moorfields station. The Lion Tavern takes its name from a steam locomotive that was built for the Liverpool & Manchester Railway in 1838 and is displayed at the Museum of Liverpool.

Once inside, I looked for a table with the sun shining on it and found one in the angled corner of the main bar.

A few customers stood at the bar or sat at the high tables by the windows but I was able to take a photo of the impressive bar without including any of them.

A panel opposite the bar gives details of the regular cask ales and ciders served.

My first pint was POTYSIPA a 4.3% ABV session IPA from Liverpool Brewing Company which was dry and bitter. (£4 pint). It was a pleasure to enjoy this beer in a bar where conversation was the norm but where the free jukebox could provide occasional musical interest.

A while later, I was able to take advantage of the free jukebox myself to play a couple of favourite Elvis Costello tracks - Alison (146 01) & Watching the Detectives (155 02). My third and final choice was a reflection of my current state - see footnote.

Yellow Submarine from Rock the Boat (Little Crosby Village Brewery) was my second pint. The 3.9% ABV golden ale cleared beautifully. With softness and less bitterness this suited my taste better. 

The award winning pub has its own bar mats to protect the historic bar surface. When I went to find the free jukebox I took the opportunity to photograph other parts of the pub.

There are art nouveau style tiles on the lower walls of the main bar and in the passage that runs between the main bar and the other bars. Note also the mosaic style passage floor.

The News Room is the bar on the right of the entrance from Tithebarn Street and also benefits from afternoon sunshine.

A skylight provides extra natural light to the Lounge at the rear. 

The Lounge also features a map on one wall illustrated with photos including one of the Lion locomotive. For more details and photos of the historic features of the Lion Tavern visit CAMRA's database of Historic Pub Interiors.

One space that is not usually visible is the Cellar. Traditional pubs have the benefit of a cool cellar with short beer lines to the hand pumps above. (I was able to sneak the photo above when a cask needed changing.)

I couldn't leave the Lion Tavern without sampling the mild ale and having a chat with Landlord Dave Hardman, who took over the pub in November 2016. Lion Best Mild from Rock the Boat (Little Crosby Village Brewery) is a 3.5% ABV North West Dark Ale brewed with five smooth malts. Described as 'Treacle, chocolate and nutty' it was dry to my taste but recommendable, as indeed were my previous two beers.

Dave was wearing a 'We had dreams and songs to sing' t-shirt with guitar picks featuring clubs and bands including: Eric's Liverpool; The Jam; Pink Floyd and The Clash. After a chat about the beers which he is proud to serve on a regular basis, Dave agreed to pose for a photo with the summer 2022 issue of Ullage magazine. This was the first issue of the West Berkshire CAMRA magazine to be printed since Spring 2020.

Dave kindly enquired about the other pubs I planned to visit and suggested the nearby Denbigh Castle. He also mentioned the Globe as a favourite pub. Dave was rather dismissive about pubs that offered too many cask beers as beer quality declines after a few days and it needs turning over quickly for it to be served in top condition. 

The Denbigh Castle

The Denbigh Castle, 10 Hackins Hey, is only two minutes walk from the Lion Tavern, but I stopped on the way to take a photo of a freestanding derelict building at 15 Tempest Hey (see photo collage near end).

Arriving at 6pm, there is some distance from the door to reach the bar at the back and adjust to the relative lack of light inside.

There was a choice of four cask ales and after some deliberation I was very happy with my choice of Twisted Wheel Brew Co (Easter Court, Warrington) Speed Wobble, a soft and hazy 4.7% ABV Session IPA. (1/2 pint £1.85).

The chance to visit pubs like these on a Tuesday has the advantage that there is a good choice of seating and no queues at the bar!

The spacious pub has an exposed brick wall, some interesting decor and contemporary lighting. 

Subsequent research shows there is also a downstairs bar used for events and that sport is shown on screens in the pub. It is the second pub to be opened by the Small Hands company after the Bridewell.

Before leaving, it was nice to have a quick chat with Francis who kindly agreed to pose with another copy of Ullage magazine which I had brought with me from Newbury.

Other pubs 'North of Liverpool Central'

The photos above were all taken in June 2022. I had previously visited the White Star (Cavern Quarter) and Crown Hotel (Lime Street) in 2019 but only had time to take fresh photos on this visit. One pub that I sadly failed to revisit this year due to lack of time was the Ship & Mitre. This was a pub recommended by Mark Geeson that can easily be reached from Moorfields by walking up Dale Street.

Footnote

The third free jukebox play at the Lion Tavern was: Canned Heat - On the Road Again (heard earlier in the day at the Masons Arms, Southport).