Dinant 2025

 

Finding an old postcard of Dinant - La Roche a Bayard in my late uncle's collection was an inspiration to see the road through the vertical rocks beside the river Meuse, south of the town. Dinant is 27 km south of Namur and 87 km south of Brussels. 

Staying in Namur made a visit there simple as there are usually two direct trains an hour from there to Dinant. We decided on a Saturday for the visit as two interesting bars there don't open until late afternoon on weekdays. However, the downside was finding the small town rather busy with fellow tourists on Saturday 1 February 2025.

From seats on the right hand side of train, on a very misty morning, there were mainly views across the river Meuse during the half hour journey. The train passes several barrages, with lock systems for the large barges that use the river. Shortly before arriving in Dinant, the train crosses a bridge to the west bank of the river and passes the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Leffe, above the other bank. The Abbey's image is featured on bottles of Leffe beer.

After leaving the train, one can cross the river by the Charles de Gaulle bridge to reach the town with it's citadel above. that can be accessed by climbing 408 steps or taking the telepherique / cable car. The bridge is adorned with saxophones variously painted to represent different countries and a tribute to Adolphe Sax, born in the town and inventor of the saxophone in the 1840s.

La Capsule

Visible from the bridge with it's orange facade and situated under the Citadel on the east bank of the river Meuse, we were early customers at La Capsule and picked a table near the window with views across the river.

It was cold outside and unsurprisingly no customers were yet sat at the tables on either side of the cobbled road between the bar and the river. We only drank coffee on our first visit in the morning but returning at 2.30pm and able to sit at the same table we found that the sunshine had attracted customers to the outside seats.

There was a poster in the town for Dinant Biere Blonde (Brasserie des Legendes) but La Capsule had Biere Le Dinantais (Brasserie Minne) a 5.3% ABV Blonde brewed for the bar and featuring the orange frontage on its label and matching glass.

Although it was bright from sunshine at the front of the bar it was only dimly lit at the back. A guest beer from the tap enjoyed here was Bretty Boop by Brasserie des Legendes.

The regular tap beers are mentioned on a page in the bound menu and the guest beers are written on a white board near the entrance which also features a variety of brewery signs. 

The 'Tout sur le Houblon IPA' section of the menu includes beers from Brussels breweries: Brussels Beer Project (Delta) and Brasserie de l'Ermitage (Lanterne, Soleil and Theorem de l'Empereur - a beer featured in the Unusual Suspects section of Breandan Kearney's book Hidden Beers of Belgium).

Pub St Roch

Our first beers in Dinant were enjoyed at Pub St Roch after visiting the vertical rockfaces at Rocher Bayard. The historic building overlooks a small cobbled square where Rue Pont en Isle meets Rue Courte Saint-Roch.

Inside, it is simply furnished and traditional touches include candlelight at the bar and an old clock. A curving wooden staircase leads to additional seating on the first floor. We chose the table closest to the log fire.

The laminated drinks menu cards include (Wallonian) regional sections for beers with none from Flanders or large breweries.

Our beer choices here included Bertinchamps Framboise (€4, 33cl, Namur region) and draught Brasserie Caulier Bon Secours 4 Houblons (€4.50, 33cl, Hainaut region). A portion of cheese, served with celery salt, also seemed appropriate at lunchtime.

It's well worth walking south of the bridge to find this historic pub with excellent service and facilities.

A walk further south will reward you with river views and and Rocher Bayard where the southbound road skirts around by the river and the northbound goes through.

For details of bars visited in Namur - please see the Namur 2025 blog post.

Brussels Friday 22 March 2019

The prospect of a first visit to L'Ermitage Nano Brasserie in Brussels and day trips to Mechelen and Leuven made a trip to Belgium by Eurostar, while the United Kingdom still remained a member of the European Union, something to look forward to in March 2019.

L'Ermitage Nano Brasserie, Brussels - decorated window to street.

Friday 22 March arrived and the first stage was to get from Newbury to Brussels via London Paddington and St Pancras International.

£6.25 Newbury to London (with railcard)

On previous trips the return fare from Newbury to London often cost more than the single fare from London to Brussels but on this occasion I had snagged an advance single fare of £6.25 in a Great Western Railway ticket sale.

London Paddington station - view from overbridge

Thankfully my train arrived at London Paddington on time. The view from the overbridge leading to the Hammersmith and City line station called for a photograph. With mainly electric trains instead of diesels nowadays the station is quieter and the air quality is better.

A walk through St Pancras International revealed that there were no queues for the Eurostar terminal so I headed for the Barrel Vault, the new Wetherspoon pub sited in the unit previously occupied by Marks & Spencer on the east side of the station with windows facing Kings Cross station.

There was time to order a small breakfast (£3.10) and coffee with refills (£1.80) while I waited for Simon to arrive.

Simon duly arrived and after breakfasting we joined the short queue for the 10.58am Brussels train at the Eurostar terminal. Despite Simon's intention to book a forward facing window seat we ended up with a rear facing seat and not much window. The train was full so there was no opportunity to move seats.

Brasserie de L'Ermitage

After arriving on time at Brussels Midi we walked to Brasserie de L'Ermitage, 26 Rue Lambert Crickx via Place Bara.

On Friday or Saturday a visit to this brewery and tasting room can be combined with a visit to nearby Brasserie Cantillon and is recommended. See L'Ermitage Nano Brasserie blog post for more details of the quirky decor, beers and brewery.

After checking into our hotel we caught a 51 tram from Bodegem south to Albert at 16:10.

We both used our pre-purchased MoBIB cards to pay for the journey on board.

Most of the trip was underground and leaving Albert station we headed for Parc de Forest passing Bar du Matin at Place Albert on the way.

Parc de Forest (panoramic)

It was a surprise to find that we were now in an elevated position with views towards Anderlecht from Parc de Forest. We noticed that there were plenty of people in the park relaxing in the sunshine.
We took a walk down towards the northern corner passing a group of fir trees with hanging parrots nests and noisy green parrots congregating.

A view from this side of the park included a variety of houses in Avenue du Mont Kemmel bathed in afternoon sunlight.

4,5,6 Ave du Mont Kemmel

We walked back up this road and spotted some decorative art nouveau houses at the road's highest point.

Moeder Lambic Original

After repassing Bar du Matin we walked down Rue Arthur Diderich to find Moeder Lambic 'Original' on the corner with Rue du Savoie.

Arriving here at 17:00 we enjoyed two beers inside at a chunky wooden table beside an open window. The hip-hop style music playing seemed a bit incongruous with the surroundings.

More details of our visit can be found in a separate blog post Moeder Lambic Original, Saint-Gilles which includes the daily tap list with three cask ales. A visit to this bar is recommended but note the 16:00 opening time on weekdays.

On leaving it was downhill again towards the Barriere roundabout which many trams circumnavigate.

Brasserie Verschueren

 

We walked north down Chaussee de Waterloo to reach Parvis de Saint-Gilles and Brasserie Verschueren arriving at 18:30.

The tables were busy but we found a narrow table inside the art deco style room with a view towards the bar. For details of the 'Bieres Maison' from De Ranke and Brasserie de la Senne that we enjoyed here and Pepsi the cat view a separate blog post Brasserie Verschueren, Saint-Gilles.

Brasserie de L'Union

Simon at the Brasserie de L'Union

A two minute walk east along the broad pedestrianised Parvis de Saint-Gilles led to the equally stylish Brasserie de L'Union on the corner with Rue de Moscou. There are black and white photo portraits behind the bar and the illuminated bar canopy is topped with a sign 'L'Union fait la force'.

The beer we both ordered here was draught Brouwerij Bosteels Tripel Karmeliet (8.4% ABV 33cl, 3 euros). The bad news was that it was not served in the brewery's own glass however it is a beer that I always enjoy drinking.

La Brocante

After a 1km walk north via Rue Haute along the side of the University Hospital we reached La Brocante, 170 Rue Blaes, on a corner of Place du Jeu de Balle, the site of the daily Marolles market (8am-2pm) where antiques and bric-a-brac can be found. It was now 20:20.

Less busy than the previous two brasseries we found a table near the bar and after spotting a promotional poster I ordered draught Brasserie {C} Smash (Liege Pale Ale, 6.2% ABV, IBU 26 - 'notre nouvelle sensation houblonnee') hopped only with Mosaic and certainly tasting hoppy.

There is an interesting sculpted city scene with a central tree behind the bar and a variety of enamel brewery signs. Music from a commercial radio station was playing.

The cafe even displays its own enamel sign which may not be as old as it looks?

The floor tiles are the same as at Brasserie Verschueren and La Brocante also has its own cat.
There was no opportunity to stay for a second beer here as it closes at 21:00 on Fridays and Saturdays.

Cafe Bebo

Instead we walked another kilometre to the spacious premises of Cafe Bebo, 2 Avenue de Stalingrad, arriving at 21:00.

We both ordered draught Brasserie Dubuisson Cuvee des Trolls which was served in the correct 33cl glassware. The 7% ABV, 19 IBU blonde ale, with dried orange peel added at the boiling stage, cost 3.50 euros here.

Poechenellekelder

 

After this beer we walked a further 500 metres, past Mannekin Pis to Poechenellekelder and were relieved to find a free table on arrival. I ordered lasagne as usual and draught Brasserie de la Senne Taras Boulba.

We stayed for another beer as there is always good service here and the surroundings are fascinating.

Moeder Lambic Fontainas

We left before midnight and stopped off at Moeder Lambic Fontainas on the way back to our hotel.

This is a different style of bar to the original in Saint-Gilles. Here you can rely on the same good service but with a larger choice of beers in a more contemporary setting. The six handpumps can be spotted half way along the back of the bar by the Cantillon sign.
Simon was especially impressed by his black IPA from Ghent's Dok Brewing Company - Sabrosura. This was brewed in collaboration with Madrid's La Quince Brewing and includes mango and Guajillo chilli additions.

We would return to Moeder Lambic Fontainas on Saturday night after a visit to Mechelen and there are photos from this visit at the end of the Mechelen meander blog post.

On Sunday we visited Leuven - more details in Leuven jazz festival blog post.

On Monday, before returning to the UK we visited some Victor Horta art nouveau buildings in Ixelles and revisited Saint-Gilles including a second visit to Brasserie de L'Union - more details in Brussels (South) blog post.