Liege 2025

The curves of the new Liege-Guillemins station, designed by Santiago Calatrava have graced the city since it's opening in 2009. The major city in Wallonia is situated on the river Meuse, near Belgium's eastern borders with Germany (Aachen) and The Netherlands (Maastricht).

Views from the Namur to Liege train

Liege-Guillemins is normally served by two trains an hour from Namur taking 45-50 minutes for the journey that follows the north bank of the river Meuse. We arrived in Liege by train on the morning of Friday 31 January 2025. Passengers aged 65+ can make a return journey between any two Belgian cities for €8.50 with a Senior Ticket. Tram tracks now lie in front of the station but the start of the Liege tram service has been delayed until April 2025.

L'Aigle d'Or

Taverne L'Aigle d'Or is one of the few Wallonie bar cafes mentioned in Belgian Cafe Culture by Regula Ysewijn. Most of the iconic cafes in this handsome book are in Flanders.

Arriving here just before noon, we were able to find a table before customers began arriving at lunchtime. Blackboards list the lunchtime menu, large arches break the space into distinct areas, several tall fridges are stocked with a variety of beers, a partition separates the bar from the dining area with tables.

A bound menu includes details of 9 permanent draught beers and bottled beers. A further 11 variable draught beers are served.

Permanent draught beers include L'Aiglon, a 5.4% ABV Blonde brewed for the bar by Brasserie Minne. This was highly rated by Frank, a homebrewer from Aachen (humble_beer on Untappd).

Impressively, the menu page for Trappist beers includes 3 Westvleteren beers and Tynt Meadow. Music playing included Steppenwolf - Born to be Wild.

Museum La Bovarie + Madame Bovarie

After coffee at Aigle d'Or, we headed to Museum La Boverie (art gallery), crossing to the island part of Liege using the La Belle Liegeios footbridge which opened in 2016.

Artworks in the permanent collection include The Turnip Washer by Evariste Carpentier. 

The Museum La Boverie shop had a display of Brasserie Surrealiste beers for sale. 

The fridge at the Madame Bovarie 'sandwich shop' inside the museum building with views towards the river Meuse was well stocked.

For our first beers of the day we enjoyed locally brewed beers here. Blanche de Liege is a wheat beer brewed by Brasserie de l'Abbaye du Val-Dieu, 20 km north-east of Liege. Smash is a pale ale brewed with Mosaic hops by Brasserie (C) in Liege. A complimentary bowl of savoury snack biscuits was placed on our tray when we reached the payment point.

It was nice to see Le Plongeur et son arc in the distance, a 2000 replica of a 1939 artwork by Idel Ianchelevici featuring a diver on his hands on the tip of a white arc of a diving board on the opposite bank, as we walked northwards from La Boverie.

After crossing the Pont Albert 1 back to the west side of the river, we walked past the yacht harbour and then inland to Place Saint-Paul by the cathedral before continuing past the historic Taverne Saint-Paul to reach Le Pot au Lait.

Le Pot au Lait

A lengthy passage leads to Le Pot au Lait and there are exotic and colourful 3D murals to admire on the way.

The entrance to the bar is also elaborately and colourfully decorated.

Inside the lighting is dim and a variety of spooky and weird images and objects are displayed. There are plenty of different areas for seating and it was quite busy for an afternoon. Heavy metal music was playing. 

The beer menu offers good variety and value. Beers are ordered and paid for at the bar, which has a surface decorated with a colourful mosaic design..

Beers may be served in a standard stemmed glass as in the case of the Goliath Triple brewed by Brasserie des Legendes.

L'Annexe

To reach our final bar in Liege, L'Annexe, involved passing Au Delft by the university and recrossing the river Meuse on a footbridge - Passarelle Saucy.

L'Annexe is accessed from a narrow passageway (Rue Roture) that leads off a one way street (Rue Puits-en-Sock) and is situated across from Cafe Le Petit Bougnat. It's only open from 4pm on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Blackboards against an internal brick wall by the bar list bottled / canned beers, cocktails (not shown above) and draught beers. The bar was very quiet so there was an opportunity to chat with Kenny the barman, from Mauritius. He went to the cellar to look for a beer from Misery Beer Co (as featured in Breandan Kearney's book Hidden Beers of Belgium). 

He returned with his last can of English Porter (€7) but sadly there was no Harzington 'inspired by the brewers of Vermont'. 

Instead Hazy Pale brewed by Norm Brewing, less than 2km away proved an excellent alternative. Kenny also gave us a complimentary dish of crisps. Music playing was laid back in style e.g. Ross David - Fire Burnin. 

The bar was still quiet when we left and in a heartwarming moment, Kenny handed me the can of Misery Beer Co English Porter as a gift, refusing to accept any payment for it. Cheers!

From here we caught a bus that took us over the Pont des Arches and dropped us near the imposing Palais Provincial. A short uphill walk leads to Liege-Saint-Lambert station which was undergoing building work and had no functioning platform indicators. Happily the train we boarded was bound for Brussels via Namur and we would arrive back in Namur in darkness.

Obviously, half a day is inadequate to explore Liege fully and it is a city destined for a future visit!

A separate blog post Namur 2025 features bars visited in Namur on this trip.

Brussels Friday 22 March 2019

The prospect of a first visit to L'Ermitage Nano Brasserie in Brussels and day trips to Mechelen and Leuven made a trip to Belgium by Eurostar, while the United Kingdom still remained a member of the European Union, something to look forward to in March 2019.

L'Ermitage Nano Brasserie, Brussels - decorated window to street.

Friday 22 March arrived and the first stage was to get from Newbury to Brussels via London Paddington and St Pancras International.

£6.25 Newbury to London (with railcard)

On previous trips the return fare from Newbury to London often cost more than the single fare from London to Brussels but on this occasion I had snagged an advance single fare of £6.25 in a Great Western Railway ticket sale.

London Paddington station - view from overbridge

Thankfully my train arrived at London Paddington on time. The view from the overbridge leading to the Hammersmith and City line station called for a photograph. With mainly electric trains instead of diesels nowadays the station is quieter and the air quality is better.

A walk through St Pancras International revealed that there were no queues for the Eurostar terminal so I headed for the Barrel Vault, the new Wetherspoon pub sited in the unit previously occupied by Marks & Spencer on the east side of the station with windows facing Kings Cross station.

There was time to order a small breakfast (£3.10) and coffee with refills (£1.80) while I waited for Simon to arrive.

Simon duly arrived and after breakfasting we joined the short queue for the 10.58am Brussels train at the Eurostar terminal. Despite Simon's intention to book a forward facing window seat we ended up with a rear facing seat and not much window. The train was full so there was no opportunity to move seats.

Brasserie de L'Ermitage

After arriving on time at Brussels Midi we walked to Brasserie de L'Ermitage, 26 Rue Lambert Crickx via Place Bara.

On Friday or Saturday a visit to this brewery and tasting room can be combined with a visit to nearby Brasserie Cantillon and is recommended. See L'Ermitage Nano Brasserie blog post for more details of the quirky decor, beers and brewery.

After checking into our hotel we caught a 51 tram from Bodegem south to Albert at 16:10.

We both used our pre-purchased MoBIB cards to pay for the journey on board.

Most of the trip was underground and leaving Albert station we headed for Parc de Forest passing Bar du Matin at Place Albert on the way.

Parc de Forest (panoramic)

It was a surprise to find that we were now in an elevated position with views towards Anderlecht from Parc de Forest. We noticed that there were plenty of people in the park relaxing in the sunshine.
We took a walk down towards the northern corner passing a group of fir trees with hanging parrots nests and noisy green parrots congregating.

A view from this side of the park included a variety of houses in Avenue du Mont Kemmel bathed in afternoon sunlight.

4,5,6 Ave du Mont Kemmel

We walked back up this road and spotted some decorative art nouveau houses at the road's highest point.

Moeder Lambic Original

After repassing Bar du Matin we walked down Rue Arthur Diderich to find Moeder Lambic 'Original' on the corner with Rue du Savoie.

Arriving here at 17:00 we enjoyed two beers inside at a chunky wooden table beside an open window. The hip-hop style music playing seemed a bit incongruous with the surroundings.

More details of our visit can be found in a separate blog post Moeder Lambic Original, Saint-Gilles which includes the daily tap list with three cask ales. A visit to this bar is recommended but note the 16:00 opening time on weekdays.

On leaving it was downhill again towards the Barriere roundabout which many trams circumnavigate.

Brasserie Verschueren

 

We walked north down Chaussee de Waterloo to reach Parvis de Saint-Gilles and Brasserie Verschueren arriving at 18:30.

The tables were busy but we found a narrow table inside the art deco style room with a view towards the bar. For details of the 'Bieres Maison' from De Ranke and Brasserie de la Senne that we enjoyed here and Pepsi the cat view a separate blog post Brasserie Verschueren, Saint-Gilles.

Brasserie de L'Union

Simon at the Brasserie de L'Union

A two minute walk east along the broad pedestrianised Parvis de Saint-Gilles led to the equally stylish Brasserie de L'Union on the corner with Rue de Moscou. There are black and white photo portraits behind the bar and the illuminated bar canopy is topped with a sign 'L'Union fait la force'.

The beer we both ordered here was draught Brouwerij Bosteels Tripel Karmeliet (8.4% ABV 33cl, 3 euros). The bad news was that it was not served in the brewery's own glass however it is a beer that I always enjoy drinking.

La Brocante

After a 1km walk north via Rue Haute along the side of the University Hospital we reached La Brocante, 170 Rue Blaes, on a corner of Place du Jeu de Balle, the site of the daily Marolles market (8am-2pm) where antiques and bric-a-brac can be found. It was now 20:20.

Less busy than the previous two brasseries we found a table near the bar and after spotting a promotional poster I ordered draught Brasserie {C} Smash (Liege Pale Ale, 6.2% ABV, IBU 26 - 'notre nouvelle sensation houblonnee') hopped only with Mosaic and certainly tasting hoppy.

There is an interesting sculpted city scene with a central tree behind the bar and a variety of enamel brewery signs. Music from a commercial radio station was playing.

The cafe even displays its own enamel sign which may not be as old as it looks?

The floor tiles are the same as at Brasserie Verschueren and La Brocante also has its own cat.
There was no opportunity to stay for a second beer here as it closes at 21:00 on Fridays and Saturdays.

Cafe Bebo

Instead we walked another kilometre to the spacious premises of Cafe Bebo, 2 Avenue de Stalingrad, arriving at 21:00.

We both ordered draught Brasserie Dubuisson Cuvee des Trolls which was served in the correct 33cl glassware. The 7% ABV, 19 IBU blonde ale, with dried orange peel added at the boiling stage, cost 3.50 euros here.

Poechenellekelder

 

After this beer we walked a further 500 metres, past Mannekin Pis to Poechenellekelder and were relieved to find a free table on arrival. I ordered lasagne as usual and draught Brasserie de la Senne Taras Boulba.

We stayed for another beer as there is always good service here and the surroundings are fascinating.

Moeder Lambic Fontainas

We left before midnight and stopped off at Moeder Lambic Fontainas on the way back to our hotel.

This is a different style of bar to the original in Saint-Gilles. Here you can rely on the same good service but with a larger choice of beers in a more contemporary setting. The six handpumps can be spotted half way along the back of the bar by the Cantillon sign.
Simon was especially impressed by his black IPA from Ghent's Dok Brewing Company - Sabrosura. This was brewed in collaboration with Madrid's La Quince Brewing and includes mango and Guajillo chilli additions.

We would return to Moeder Lambic Fontainas on Saturday night after a visit to Mechelen and there are photos from this visit at the end of the Mechelen meander blog post.

On Sunday we visited Leuven - more details in Leuven jazz festival blog post.

On Monday, before returning to the UK we visited some Victor Horta art nouveau buildings in Ixelles and revisited Saint-Gilles including a second visit to Brasserie de L'Union - more details in Brussels (South) blog post.