Six visit Ghent in April 2026

View of Bierhuis / Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant from Vleeshuisbrug

On Sunday 26 April, six friends from West Berkshire arrived at Gent-Dampoort station on a direct train from Antwerpen-Centraal after a three day trip, described in a Six visit Antwerp post.

After checking in at our nearby hotel, we walked down Dampoortstraat and Steendam to become the first customers of the day at Gentse Gruut Brouwerij Taproom.

Gentse Gruut Brouwerij Taproom

Inside, there have been some changes to the layout at Gentse Gruut Brouwerij Taproom since Tim's previous visit in June 2017.

The bar is now on the opposite wall and the large painting of many people has been moved from the Steendam end to above the bar. The brewery uses gruit, a mixture of herbs, as an alternative to hops.

L to R: Jeff, Mike, Rich, Pat & Tommy

After some walking on a sunny day, the group's consensus was that Gruut Wit and Gruut Blond were pleasantly refreshing. 

Le Bal Infernal

Le Bal Infernal - Used Book Cafe, Kammerstraat 6

Leaving Gruut, we continued along Steendam to reach the Sunday market stalls by St James' church that had started packing up.

We were too early to visit Trollekelder so enjoyed our first beer at Le Bal Infernal nearby.

There are two levels with a ceiling high wall of used books available for exchange near the entrance. On a slightly higher level further inside there's more seating and a small bar for ordering coffee, beer and snacks. Four draught beers and 15 bottled beers are listed in the menu with several Super 8 and Tongerlo branded beers from Brouwerij Haacht.

Korenlei on left bank of the Leie                                                                              Gravensteen

Later on, after a lunch break and a walk along Korenlei towards Gravensteen castle we noticed that Het Waterhuis van Bierkant looked busy (top photo) so we continued along Kraanlei before turning right towards St James' church and recrossing the Leie on Zuivelbrug. 

Trollekelder

Trollekelder (closed), with two tall windows, earlier on Sunday

By now, Trollekelder was open and we found a table inside, up a few steps and near the front windows.

There's a large painting on the wall opposite the bar that was visible from our table.

Looking up, you can see through an opening to the upper floor.

There's a long beer menu with all options maintained online and accessible from a QR code. Looking at the first two categories, Op't vat (draught) lists 14 beers and Gentse Bieren (local) lists 17 bottles. You can surely find a beer you like here but Pat was disappointed that the cider list only included two Somersby ciders.

Tim's choices here were (draught) Trollebier Blond brewed by Brouwerij van Steenberge and Ter Dolen Tripel which is typically sweet. Note that Kwak was served in the traditional coachman's glass in a wooden holder. Our helpful barman did not ask for a shoe in exchange for a Kwak and suggested holding the wooden handle to drink from the glass.

We set off again back over Zuivelbrug intending to visit Cafe Folklore. On the way we passed 't Klokhuys Brasserie at and a wisteria covered house in Drongenhof. Unfortunately, there was a sign on the door of Cafe Folklore advising that the beer cafe only opens on the first and third Friday / Saturday / Sunday of each month and this was the fourth Sunday. Heading back towards the river Leie via Plotersgracht we went to Aba-jour instead.

Aba-jour

The entrance to Aba-jour at Oudburg 20 leads to a passage before you reach the stylish art deco style brasserie that overlooks the river.

We had hoped for a river view but these tables are reserved for diners so we took a table opposite the bar instead. The bar has a line of ten bar stools in matching art deco style.

Our view also included an elegant 1930s-era large graphic panel of two women in contrasting bathing costumes holding a white ladder.

The printed menu lists eight draught beers, seven local beers and bottles from six Trappist breweries  amongst other categories.

Tim chose draught Saison Voisin from Brasserie des Legendes but was disappointed to find it more sour than expected.

Leaving around 7.30pm, we set off in search of a less upmarket place for a meal.

We passed Cafe de Welkom near the junction of Oudburg and Drongenhof but this is simply a taproom for Gent's Dok Brewing Co without catering. 

Amadeus Gent 1

Returning to Plotersgracht we noticed Amadeus Gent 1 and ventured inside. We were greeted and shown to a free table.

From here we could admire the decor that includes stained glass, mirrors, bric-a-brac and a wall of books.

It was busy inside but our orders were soon taken and for our last night in Belgium we all enjoyed substantial meals that were reasonably priced. Tim's steak with peppercorn sauce was perfectly cooked and served with a baked potato and salad. The limited beer menu includes Westmalle Dubbel and Tripel (above), Tripel Karmeliet, Delirium Tremens and Red, Leffe Blond.

Four of our group were also tempted and intrigued by the three layered Irish Coffee served in a glass together with a Biscoff biscuit. 

There are branches of the restaurant chain in Antwerp and Brussels.

Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant

Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant

By 10pm, the crowds had gone from the streets and we had no difficulty finding a good table at Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant. 

There is an impressive bound beer menu and we asked the barman to give us a bit more time to study it before taking our order which was professionally served. The draught page (left) includes three exclusive beers at the top. The Abbey beer page warns that they are not Trappist beers and that the abbeys may not exist! There is also the reminder that payment is per table and not per person.

Artevelde Grand Cru - Photo: Rich

There is also a page for beers from Ghent's Brouwerij Artevelde. Rich ordered Artevelde Grand Cru here.

Tim's final beers in Ghent (above) were draught Brouwerij Huyghe Paranoia (IPA) dry-hopped with Citra and Mosaic and a bottle of Ter Dolen Armand, dry-hopped with Cascade and named after the co-founder of the brewery Armand Desplenter.

Rich had previously set us a task of choosing eight 'Desert Island Discs' and we had a good time taking turns in rounds to present our choices and say a few words about them.

Perhaps it's not surprising that we are friends when we all enjoy beer, music, travel and can cope with spending four full days together!

After midnight, it was time to leave and walk back to the hotel just as the Waterhuis was about to close.

Some bars close even later on a Sunday night in Ghent.

Passing near St James' church again we noticed that it was busy at Afsnis at a quarter past midnight. A bar to visit on another trip perhaps!

Ghent on foot

Gravensteen by the river Leie / Lys

Ghent is a sizeable city crossed by the River Leie / Lys and canals. Main line trains from Brussels stop at Gent-Sint-Pieters but this is a long hike from the historic centre. Tickets to Gent-Dampoort are the same price and changing trains will save extra walking or tram fares.

There will often be a train, stopping at Dampoort, ready for boarding in one of the many platforms at Sint-Pieters. This was the case on an unseasonably warm and sunny early Spring Sunday (9 March 2025). After passing hundreds of bicycles in Dampoort station's parking area, head west from Dampoort station. One possible route follows the north bank of the canal along Hagelandkaai to reach Sint-Jorisbrug over the river. 

Following Steendam west will lead to Gentse Gruut Brouwerij. The brewery uses gruit, a mixture of herbs, as an alternative to hops. The brewery taproom opens at 2pm and the doors were closed but a 2017 visit, after a hike from St-Pieters, had been worthwhile and it is unlikely to have changed a great deal since then - refer 2017 post.

St James' church is just across the roundabout at the western end of Steendam. Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday there are stalls for the Prondelmarkt in the shadow of the church at Bij Sint-Jacobs. This is also a good area for cafes and antique shops.

De Dulle Griet

It's also a good area for bars and De Dulle Griet can be found overlooking nearby Vrijdagmarkt, a square where a market is held every Friday.

There's an extensive range of draught beers but no service at the bar. De Dulle Griet was reasonably busy inside but a low table near the entrance was available and table service soon followed.

With a uniform and the responsibility of delivering tall 1.2 litre 'Max' glasses of Blond or Dunkel (€14.40) to customers, the bar staff expect respect from customers.

Prices for normal measures are on the high side with my 33cl glass of Gentse Strop (Brouwerij Roman) costing €6.60. A QR code on the table can be used to see the extensive menu. 

There's lots of bric-a-brac to look at and the 'shoe hoist' with a bell underneath (right photo above) was raised after an order of a 'Max van 't huis'. Definitely a bar to visit once but it may well be missed out on a future visit.

On a mission to see Gravensteen castle further west, the walking route led near two bars earmarked for a visit, Barrazza (right photo above) and Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant (left photo above). They both overlook the river Leie / Lys and were very busy on a sunny day so were merely noted for a future visit.

Artevelde

The streets from Vleeshuisbrug south towards Saint Nicholas' church / Sint-Niklaaskerk were also very busy and it was a relief to see a massive sign on the side of Artevelde Brouwerij and go inside for shade and a comfortable seat.

A table near the foot of an impressive staircase gave views of the bar and the inner courtyard.

From the limited beer range in the bound menu on the table, Artevelde Leute (6.2% ABV) was chosen (33cl / €5) and served with a complimentary bowl of nuts.

Before leaving there was an opportunity to use the traditional staircase to reach the superior toilet facilities. The first floor has a further spacious interior space and an external balcony overlooking the courtyard below. I look forward to a future visit and a chance to drink the other Artevelde beers brewed here: Pils (5.2% ABV, €4.2 / 33cl); Grand Cru (7.2% ABV, €5.5 / 33cl) and Wijs (8.2% ABV, €6.2 33cl). Hopefully the choice of music will have improved by then from a selection that included ABC by the Jackson Five.

Trollekelder

It's a simple walk in a north easterly direction, up Belfortstraat, back towards St James' church to find Trollekelder at Sint-Jacobs 17.

It was nice to be able to go to the bar, look at the draught beers, choose, order and pay before returning to a table with the beer.

As a local option, the only real choice was Ouwen Duiker (33cl / €5.80).

There was a large painting on the wall near my table but I didn't recognise any of the people featured!

The online menu included some unusual bottled beers: Gentse Tripel (8% ABV, 33cl / €5.50); Weer een Tripel Minder (Dok, 8.4% ABV, 33cl /  €5.80); Theoreme de l'Empereur (l'Ermitage, 6.4% ABV, 33cl / €6.80); Westvleteren 8,12 & Blond (8%, 10.2% & 5.8% ABV, 33cl / €15) & Saison Hof ten Dormaal (5.8% ABV, 33cl / €6.30). The music playing on the featured radio station included I Wish by Skee-Lo.

On a visit to the graffiti marked and stickered toilet facilities upstairs, returning by a different route, it was possible to appreciate the extent of Trollekelder which offers a lot more seating upstairs as well as at cellar level. This was my favourite bar of the afternoon in Ghent and definitely one to return to!

Sint-Jorisbrug with canoe rolling action!

From here it is simple to return to Dampoort station via Steendam and Sint-Jorisbrug then either Dampoortstraat for shops or Hagelandkaai for views.

N.B. There are direct SNCB trains from Dampoort to Antwerp and Ostend (via Bruges) so you may not need to change at Sint-Pieters.