Pisa
Pisa is an ideal gateway for visits to Tuscany and Liguria. Frequent flights from the UK and an airport within walking distance of the city make it a relatively easy and economical destination.When combined with multiple railway connections, a good value central hotel and two of my favourite beer bars within walking distance, the case for Pisa is hard to beat! That explains why since my first Pisa visit in January 2014, I have returned in July 2015 and in May 2016.
I usually stay at Hotel La Pace, near the station and this time my 6th floor room even had a distant view of the leaning tower, on the other side of the river Arno!
Lungarno Galileo Galilei on south bank of River Arno, Pisa |
Pisa - Orzo Bruno
Pub Orzo Bruno opens at 7pm and it is a good idea to arrive there early in the evening to enjoy the complimentary buffet laid out on the bar.Miki serving at Pub Orzo Bruno - note complimentary buffet on bar |
Two more pedestrian streets, Borgo Stretto and Via Mercanti lead to the pub which is popular with students from the university nearby.
With six fonts and a handpump supplying beers brewed locally by Birrificio Artigiano di Bientina a good choice of beers of different styles is available.
Livio serving Valdera Rossa |
Pisa - La Torre del Luppolo
La Torre del Luppolo, a bottle shop and beer bar which opened in May 2014 is only a short walk from here, in Via Renato Fucini.
La Torre del Luppolo is open every evening from 6pm.
The good news was that I turned up on Monday 16th May, the beer shop's second birthday and was offered a free beer. A tray of pastries was also offered to customers to celebrate the birthday
A screen gives details of the six beers available on draught. Beers are priced at 3 euro for a piccolo (1/2 pint), 4 euro for a media (3/4 pint) or 5 euro for a grande (pint) and plastic glasses are mainly used. (May 2016).Francesco and Alessandro - La Torre del Luppolo, Pisa |
A large range of Italian and European bottled beers are also available, to drink here or take away, from shelves and fridges.
Liguria & Cinque Terre
Pisa > Deiva Marina train ticket 10.50 euros |
The marble quarries near Carrara are visible from the first train between Pisa and La Spezia.
La Spezia station - Train for Sestri Levante via Deiva Marina |
View of the Ligurian Sea from the train at Framura station |
Deiva Marina
The railway route hugs the coast and my train stopped at Framura before entering another tunnel and emerging at Deiva Marina station. My Newbury friend, Chris Reynolds, had arrived on an earlier train from the opposite direction after a stay in Genoa.Balcony view from Albergo La Lampara, Deiva Marina |
Birra Toz Friulana Artiginiale at Raggio di Luna, Deiva Marina |
The same scooter riding character is featured on all the labels but the clothes change to distinguish them.
Vernazza
Chris and I spent the next day in Vernazza (Cinque Terre). In October 2011, Vernazza was drenched in mud after severe storms and flooding. Now it is difficult to spot any signs of the devastation.Tim with a beer - overlooking Vernazza's main street |
We shared a large bottle of Moretti Siciliana from the brewery's Le Regionali range. This was my favourite bottled beer of the trip. The 5.8% ABV beer has floral notes from orange blossom.
We followed a footpath a little way out of the town towards Corniglia. The effort was rewarded with panoramic views from Bar La Torre.
We enjoyed a break here with draught Menabrea beer before the steep descent back to the town.
Riomaggiore
The weather had turned wet and windy on the next morning when we met up again in Riomaggiore (Cinque Terre).After a walk to the harbour we found shelter at Bar O'Netto Brasserie on the main street, a little way uphill from Piazza Vignaioli.
We ordered glasses of draught Poretti '7' (unfiltered) and sat inside until a table with a street view was available on the sheltered passage passing the entrance.
Chris with Poretti 7 at Bar O'Netto |
Entertainment arrived in the form of an Australian stag party group. Dave, in princess outfit was accompanied by his Gold Coast friends wearing Super Mario costumes. We would return to Bar O'Netto later in the evening and again on Friday, after a hike to Manarola, before my return to Pisa.
Manarola
The sun shone on Friday as we hiked up and down the Beccara Trail to Manarola (Cinque Terre).Looking back at Riomaggiore from the Beccara Trail |
Forst at Nessun Dorma, Manarola |
Later - a return visit to Orzo Bruno, Pisa |