Chester - June 2022

 

Chester, once named Deva, is renowned for it's Roman remains and the Rows, covered first floor walkways on central streets with entrances to shops and businesses.

The county town of Cheshire, is served by several railway lines including a frequent Merseyrail service from Liverpool stations via Birkenhead, Rock Ferry and Port Sunlight. 

My visit to Chester, on Wednesday 8 June, followed breakfast at The North Western (Wetherspoon), accessed from Lime Street station, and a brief visit to the Walker Art Gallery in the St George's Quarter.

Leaving the train at Bebington and rejoining a later one at Port Sunlight gave an opportunity to walk through Port Sunlight village and visit the Lady Lever Art Gallery.

After a morning of cultural education, the time would soon come for some beer education in Chester. However, some history and archaeology would come first through an elevated walk along the city's walls.  Before the wall turns down to the river Dee, steps provide access to Duke Street, and heading downhill brings you to Bridge Street. 

A few steps uphill then brings you to the Brewery Tap on the west side of Bridge Street. The first floor main entrance is accessed by external steps.

There are food and beer menus at pavement level and the smoked mackerel sandwich served with coleslaw caught my eye from the daily food menu.

There is a freestanding bar against the rear wall of the stone-floored, high-ceilinged Jacobean hall that houses the Spitting Feathers Brewery Tap.

My first beer here was Spitting Feathers Honey Trap, a smooth 4.1% ABV pale ale brewed with honey from the brewery's beehives (£1.95 1/2 pint).

Later, a pint of Rush Hour went well with the smoked mackerel (doorstep) sandwich. The smooth 4.5% ABV American Pale Ale hopped with five varieties has mild citrus notes. (£4 pint). Staff at the Brewery Tap were also friendly and helpful making it a hard act to follow in every respect.

Panorama - from the Chester Cross - east (Eastgate Street) and south (Bridge Street).

The nearby Cavern of the Curious Gnome does not open until 3pm (Monday to Friday) so there was time for a wander around the streets and rows of Chester and a visit to the Pied Bull in the meantime.

Reputed to be the oldest licensed house in Chester, the Pied Bull dates back to 1155. On the west side of Northgate Street, it is home to the Pied Bull Brewery with the microbrewery located just underneath the bar. There is also a beer terrace at the rear of the premises.

A half pint of Quaffabull, 4% pale ale, with grapefruit citrus notes, costs £2.40 (£2.16 with 10% CAMRA discount applied). With hotel accommodation and comfortable seating, the Pied Bull has an upmarket atmosphere. 

Time passes and a visit to the Cavern of the Curious Gnome now becomes possible. The 'cavern' is actually a loft with access upstairs from Paysan winebar which itself is situated on the first floor row on the east side of Bridge Street (No. 61). 

I was the first customer of the day and chose a pint of Black Iris Brewery (Nottingham) Endless Summer (£4.50 pint). The soundtrack here is mainly classic rock but with some European touches.

There is also a European theme to the furniture and the beers with German lagers on tap and a wide selection of Belgian bottled beers. 

The bound menus are split into sections e.g. Belgian Beer 4.5% to 6.5%; Belgian Beer 6.5% to 8.4%; Trappist Beer. 

The quirky bar stools and decor make the Cavern of the Curious Gnome an interesting destination especially for anyone who enjoys sampling a wide variety of beers and lagers. The option of a seat on the row overlooking Bridge Street (see earlier photo) is available to anyone allergic to the choice of music playing inside the bar.

Before leaving I would donate a copy of West Berkshire CAMRA's Ullage magazine to the shelf which has a holder for the Chester & Hoole real ale pub guide leaflet, published by Chester & South Clywd CAMRA . This leaflet is also available at the Brewery Tap.

Please see the companion post Liverpool (Baltic Triangle) for details of brewery tap and pubs visited in the evening including: Cains Brewery, Black Lodge Brewery, Baltic Fleet and the Bridewell.