We had agreed in advance that a day out in Leuven would be a good idea based on our previous stay there in March 2018. Find links to five previous Leuven blog posts at the end of this post.
A sunny start to the day on Sunday 24 March 2019, the third day of our Brussels trip. A short walk to Brussels Midi station, weekend return tickets to Leuven for 6.60 euros each from the ticket machine, up the escalator to platform 12 and we found seats on the busy 10.56am train due to arrive at 11.24.
After a smooth ride mainly through flat countryside, you know you will soon be at Leuven station when the train passes the tall tanks of the Stella Artois brewery.
Leuven has several universities and as the student population declines at weekends some bars, that rely mainly on students as customers, are closed on Saturday &/or Sunday.
After our previous visit to Leuven in March 2018,
West Berkshire CAMRA Ullage magazine (Summer 2018) published my feature on the visit including a photos of Koen and Steven at M-Cafe and Jef Janssens at
Hof ten Dormaal Brewery. Unfortunately
M-Cafe is closed on Sundays but I was able to leave printed copies of the back issue on the bar counter by entering via
M-Museum.
This was also an opportunity to pick up a copy of the
Leuven Jazz Festival brochure (7th edition, 14-24 March 2019).
There was a chance to glance at this with coffee in the sunshine at a table outside
Picasso Cafe looking across the cobbled square of Monseignur Ladeuzeplein towards
Jan Fabre's beetle 'Totem' and the historic
Leuven university library and tower.
Although we had missed the 12.15 start time, we were able to enjoy free access to a dark gallery level of nearby
30CC/Schouwberg to watch the jazz / funk fusion band
Electric Banana 2.0, with members of the band that won the first B-Jazz international contest 40 years previously.
Emerging into the sunlight we headed to
Taverne Universum via Monseignur Ladeuzeplein.
Sint-Donatus park.
Although Taverne Universum has a spacious interior and a reasonable beer menu, the irritating pop music resulted in us walking out and heading instead to STUK passing remains of the 12th century city walls in
Sint Donatus park.
STUK cafe (1/2)
We found the
cafe at
STUK: House for Dance, Image & Sound was open at 13:40.Several customers were busy with laptops.
For my first beer of the day, I enjoyed Trappist
Orval (4.20 euros) although it was a slight disappointment that it was not served in the correct glass. With big windows facing Naamsestraat, this is a light and spacious 'Grand Cafe' space with a bar at one end and a stage near the entrance.
We reached the peaceful surroundings of the
Groot Begijnhof / Great Beguinage from the Zwartzusterstraat pedestrian entrance. The only vehicles on the cobbled streets are bicycles.
Our visit coincided with the flowering of the magnolia tree on the river banks where a bridge crosses.
De Vetten Os
We left the Begijnhof and walked through residential streets to
De Vetten Os, Simon's favourite locals bar in the city.
I was inspired by the sunshine to order Hoegaarden from the limited range of draught beers. We chose a sunny inside table although a few tables are also available outside, next to the road.
We had noticed there was not much traffic as through traffic uses the city's ring road.
Locals were chatting at the bar and a mature woman also arrived and ordered a glass of beer at another table. We were given a friendly farewell by all on our eventual departure at 4pm.
Cafe Belge
After recrossing the river Dijle by following Janseniusstraat we reached the open space of Pater Damiaanplein where foursomes were playing
pickleball in marked court areas. From here we turned north towards Oude Markt where we found
Cafe Belge, with the pulpit near the front for the DJ, had no other customers inside.
We checked the blackboard behind the ornate bar for the choice of draught and bottled beers and then also looked at the extensive illustrated beer menu.
Disappointingly, my choice of
Brouwerij t'Verzet Space Cadet wheat beer (3.50 euro) was served in a generic glass and the taste was more bitter than expected.
Some good tunes were playing on the sound system including the Zombies - Time of the Season, Rodriguez - I Wonder and Creedence Clearwater Revival - Born on the Bayou. On leaving we noticed there were now several customers at the shady outside tables with views of Oude Markt.
De Fiere Margriet
We walked past
St Peter's church with its incomplete bell tower to find that
De Fiere Margriet was closed on Sunday.
De Blauwe Schuite
We continued on via Mechelsestraat pedestrian street and Vismarkt to
De Blauwe Schuit.
We found a table by a tall window in the narrower front part of the large room. Further back the room widens with windows to the courtyard garden opposite the bar.
After looking through the beer menu we ordered Leuvense Tripel by
Brouwerij van Steenberge (Tim 4.20 euro) and Trappist amber coloured
La Trappe Quadrupel (Simon, 11% ABV). Thankfully both were served at our table in the correct glasses and met our expectations for beers to savour rather than quaff!
The beermats, with an illustration of a view of Monseignur Ladeuzeplein where we had earlier had coffee, bore the slogan which translates as 'Park your bike quickly and safely?'. The reverse has a
link to Leuven's transport iniatives which make the city a pleasure to walk around in, without the fumes and dangers of car traffic.
Simon had been anxious that the bar's pet peacock might have disappeared so we were pleasantly surprised to spot him in the courtyard as we departed at 6pm.
There is plenty of space in the courtyard to spend time outside on a warm day.
De Blauwe Kater
Only two minutes walk from here back through Vismarkt to
De Blauwe Kater at Mechelsestraat, 51.
There is a choice of 8 draught beers and a beer menu also lists a variety of bottled beers.
My choice was a bottle of Saison
Dupont and Simon chose a bottle of
La Guillotine after noticing the display on the left of the bar.
These were served to our ground floor table beside a window with a view towards Vismarkt which has provision for bicycle parking..
There was a live Blues Brothers album playing on the sound system which Simon recognised with pleasure. On this occasion we did not hear much else though!
Visit 'the Blue Cat' on a Monday evening if you want to enjoy live blues music from touring bands. Details of the next gig are shown on a blackboard.
The blues music theme extends to the photo signs clearly distinguishing the Ladies and Gents toilets.
We stayed for a second beer and this was a chance for me to try Brouwerij van Hoegaarden
Julius (8.5% ABV, 4 euros), as advertised in the window.
Before she finished her shift, I persuaded Chantal Alvarez, who had served us, to pose with a current issue of the West Berkshire CAMRA magazine
Ullage.
It was around 7.45pm when we left and retraced our steps towards St Peters Church and the illuminated historic
town hall beyond to stop for a quick Greek style meal nearby.
De Metafoor
Around 8.15pm we arrived at
De Metafoor at
Parijsstraat 34, one street down from the Oude Markt.
Inside tables were occupied but there were seats at the bar. Simon wasn't impressed with his choice of
Le Fort by Brouwerij Omer Vander Ghinste but my
Hapkin by Brouwerij Alken-Maes (8.5% ABV, 4.60 euros), served in the correct glass, became a new favourite.
Views from the bar towards the street are of subtle trompe-l'oeil wall art (top) and the snake plants on the window ledges adjoining the central doorway.
STUK Cafe (2/2)
The final event in the
Leuven Jazz Festival was a free gig by
I H8 Camera 'Super 9' at
STUK Cafe from 9pm. There was barely enough room for the 8 guitarists and drummer to fit on the stage!
We found a space to squeeze in two extra seats at the side and waited patiently for the music to start with glasses of De Koninck
Triple D'Anvers to ease the frustration of the delay. It was necessary to leave before the end of the show to catch the 22.33 train to
Brussels Central station.
Brussels - Brewdog & Le Roi des Belges
Arriving at
Brewdog Brussels, opposite the station entrance after 11pm, there was plenty of seating space.
We ordered 25cl glasses and my choice of Small Batch Juicy IPA tasted good and was less hazy than expected.
When staff started tidying up empty glasses from the tables, it was a sign that we should soon leave but there was still time to get Dana from Brewdog to pose with the Summer 2018 issue of
Ullage for an #UllageOnTour photo to include in the
@UllageBeer twitter feed.
With our hotel a 25 minute walk away towards Lemonnier we also managed to stop off at
Le Roi des Belges at Place Saint Gery for a nightcap after midnight. A check on
Untappd confirms that Simon's choice was
Gageleer by De Proefbrouwerij an organic beer with bog myrtle.
A magazine rack on the wall seemed an appropriate place to leave my spare copy of
Ullage magazine before we finally called it a night.
Links to 2018 Leuven blog posts:
Thursday 22 March - includes De Fiere Margriet, The Capital
Leuven Thursday Night
Friday 23 March - includes STUK, De Spuye
Leuven Friday
- includes M-Cafe, Cafe Belge
Leuven Friday Night
Saturday 24 March - includes De Blauwe Schuit, Hof ten Dormaal
Leuven Saturday
- iucludes De Blauwe Kater, De Metafoor
Leuven Saturday Night
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| Simon & Tim - The Capital - Thursday 22 March 2018 |
