Lier, Flanders - 2024

Our group of friends was in Antwerp from 20-23 June primarily to support Beer Passion / Bierpassie Weekend in Groenplaats but we also had time to visit Lier and the Zimmer tower on the Friday, when it rained for most of the day.

The trip started with a short train journey from Antwerp's magnificent Central station - Antwerpen-Centraal. Lierre / Lier is well served by around five trains an hour from Antwerp, taking about 16 minutes and costing 3.60 euros for a single journey.

There were no buses running from the station on the outskirts to the centre of Lier due to road closures for the annual Lier Feest festival. Alternative routes to reach the Zimmer tower are to follow a wide tree-lined path that follows the base of the old city walls next to a river or to follow Antwerpsestraat to the Grote Markt and its imposing Stadhuis (Town hall).

Het Belofte Land

Having travelled by separate trains from Anwerp and routes from Lier station we met up inside Cafe Het Belofte Land at Begijnhofstraat 7.

Tim found Andrew, Richard and Simon in the raised level around a table in the furthest corner of the cafe. Lisbeth, looked after serving our beers and tempted us to order spaghetti dishes, which the cafe is known for, but it was too early in the day for us to have a meal.

Keen to try the first in the new Juicy range of beers from Mort Subite, Tim ordered Crime of Passion from the tap.

The others were drinking draught Hapkin 'a strong blond beer with subtle fruitiness', now brewed by Alken-Maes. Our second beer order was a mirror of the first order so we all enjoyed one of each.

Now dry, warm and refreshed we departed for a walk around the traditional cobbled streets of Lier's sizeable Begijnhof / Beguinage, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1998, with St Margaret's church as its centre. Thankfully the rain had eased by now.

The Zimmer tower, museum and cafe is located beyond the north east boundary of the Begijnhof. The astronomical Jubilee clock built by Louis Zimmer (1888-1970) with 13 different dials is on the tower's front facade. A visit to the museum and the inside of the tower is recommended (5 euros).

Sint-Gummarus

Sint-Gummarus has an enviable location, 100 metres at F. Timmermansplein 2, north east of the Zimmer tower and fronting onto the river with plenty of space for outside tables. 

There are ten draught beers and Tim took his glass of Cherry Chouffe to a table opposite the bar with many interesting signs, pictures and a league table on the wall. Perhaps the incongruous brightly coloured bar stool seats appeal to younger generations? 

Cafe In de Gloria Lier

Cafe In de Gloria Lier is located just around the next corner, near Hoogbrug, at Grote Markt 2. 

Tim rejoined the others at this high-ceilinged cafe and ordered a glass of Liefmans Peach beer (3.8% ABV). 

Decorated with bunting and inflatable devil fork in colours of the Belgian flag, presumably for Euro 2024, the permanent items on display in the cafe include an old clock and radio, a portrait of James Dean and a Bass Pale Ale mirror. 

Cafe Rene

Following a recommendation based on it's range of beers, Cafe Rene at Zimmerplein 11, was our final stop in Lier.

Inside the decor is contemporary with plenty of pale wood. 

Tim's beer choice here was Viswijf from Brouwerij Vissenberg, founded in 2013, now with an address in Vremde, between Antwerp and Lier. 

Now it was time for something to eat. It was nice to find that a Croque Monsieur is served on a plate with paper cups of mayonnaise, ketchup and small pickled onions.

Determined to save money on the ride back to Antwerp for the first evening of Bierpassie weekend in Groenplaats, Tim followed the tree-lined path to find a bus stop across the river and outside the centre.

This journey involved catching a bus part way and then changing onto a tram, both operated by De Lijn and only costing a single one hour charge of 1.70 euros on his 10-rittenkaart (10 rides ticket). 

With a delay on the tram due to a track issue, it would be some time later before Tim caught up with the others near the tent where Ben Vinken (seated right 'the original Belgian beer sommelier') is on hand to greet customers at Bierpassie Weekend.

Although senior in age to Richard and Simon, Tim was the junior of our group in terms of number of visits to Antwerp for Bierpassie Weekend. It was rewarding to hear that his proposal of a trip to Lier had been highly valued by all and that a return visit to the town was anticipated in future, hopefully on a dry day!

Antwerp - Beer Passion Weekend 2024

Overlooked by the Cathedral of Our Lady, Groenplaats is the setting for the annual Bierpassie Weekend in Antwerp. The 23rd edition opened at 5pm on Friday 21 June 2024.

Our group supported the festival for a few hours on the Friday (early evening), Saturday (mid evening) and Sunday (lunchtime). Tim and Simon were glad to return after missing the 2023 edition after finding out too late that we had booked travel and accommodation for the following weekend. Richard and Andrew were back as usual but Keith was missing in Germany this year. Paul, Jennie and Linda were attending for the first time.

L to R: Simon, Jennie, Paul, Linda & Richard 

On the Friday evening we found a table in Ben Vinken's Beer Sommelier bar which was less busy than usual. Ben and his friends sat at a nearby table smoking cigars.

Entrance to the Bierapassie Weekend costs 10 euros and includes a programme, tasting glass and two beer tokens (each with 3 euro value for a a 20 cl serving). Tim and Simon reused their old tasting glasses and simply bought 10 tokens for 30 euros to start off with. To access the toilets costs 1 euro. N.B. Bubble wrap or similar is useful for keeping your glass safe from one day to the next. 

In addition to Ben's bar in the marquee near the entrance, this year there were 16 brewery stands and 3 brewery beer trucks. Glasses are routinely rinsed or replaced before each beer is served. Breweries staff their own stands and at quiet times are happy to chat about the beers served.

A new stand this year was for Apropos IPA from Antwerp. Tom Snels and Bart Wynants from Cafe Apropos, Schermersstraat 33, near Mechelsplein and Leopoldplaats, a kilometer away. They collaborated with Brouwerij De Graal to brew their house beer, a blond 7.5% ABV IPA.

Le Plan-Vermeersch brought a beer truck to the festival. Taking its name from former Belgian rally driver Dirk Vermeersch, who subsequently built up a winery in France and more recently developed a range of Belgian beers.

Keen to try flavoured beers, Tim enjoyed a glass of Le Plan Beat, a 5% ABV red wheat beer with a hint of beetroot.

Dixieland Street Band

During the festival there are several performances around the site by musicians including Dixieland Street Band (Friday and Saturday) and Tussen Neus en Lippen, a Dutch brass band from 's-Hertogenbosch known for its Oeteldonk carnival (Sunday lunchtime).

'Tussen Neus en Lippen' (NL)

Staying at nearby Hotel National, Tim was the first to arrive on Sunday morning and his first drink of the day was Floris Framboos, a 3.6% ABV fruit beer from Brouwerij Huyghe, the brewers of Delirium Tremens. 

See you at Bierpassie Weekend next year? While Tim has only been a regular since 2016, Richard, Andrew and Simon have been attending since the festival started and have the t-shirts to prove it!

The festival programme reveals that the 24th Bierpassie Weekend in 2025 is moving to a new venue indoors - the historic Handelsbeurs building. Once a commodity exchange and later a stock exchange it is now part of an events venue.

Antwerp - Friday 22/6/2018 part 2

My walking route from Ibis Budget Hotel near Antwerp Central Station to Hostel Pulcinella was via City Park and passed the renowned Cafe Kulminator, Vleminckveld 32, visited the previous evening.

Kleine Markt - near Cafe Kulminator

Kleine Markt is overlooked by a statue of Mary and baby Jesus, including a streetlamp, on the junction with Bredestraat, just 50 metres further north-west.

I was able to check in to my spacious first floor room with a view of the courtyard garden by about 6pm. A partial refund of the room rate, due to single occupancy, was a pleasant surprise.

 

BierPassie Weekend XIX - day 1

The advantage of staying at Hostel Pulcinella is that it is only 600 metres from the entrance to the BierPassie Weekend festival in Groenplaats.

The festival opens at 5pm on the Friday. On arrival at Groenplaats, I purchased a Beer Sommelier tasting glass (5 euros) and jetons (plastic beer tokens - 2 euros / 20cl) and picked up a free programme at the entrance. Our group was sitting inside the tent housing Ben's bar.
Andrew pointed me to Keith Moore who was chatting with Johan Van Dyck and Karen Follens the founders of Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie in front of the Seefbier wagon / bar.

Before joining them I used my first jeton for a glass of Super Cadix dry hopped lager from the wagon.

Karen Follens and Johan Van Dyck with Ullage magazine

Page 6 (detail) - Ullage magazine (Autumn 2017)

I was glad to be able to give Johan an Autumn 2017 issue of Ullage magazine which included a photo of an Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie poster and details of the brewery's new taproom / cafe which our group would visit at lunchtime on Saturday.

Keith Moore with Keef Bier

Slightly earlier, Keith had presented them with bottles of Keefbier, with a label based on the Seefbier label but incorporating Keith's bespectacled face insted of the face of 'Seef man'.

Having brought a copy of the latest edition (8th) of CAMRA's Good Beer Guide Belgium with me, I was able to show Johan the entry for Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie, on page 77 of the 'Belgian Breweries A to Z section'. Johan was a bit doubtful about their brewery's 'Tiny' size category although happy that it had not been categorised as 'Miniscule'!
Thanks to Johan for a complimentary glass of Nonkel Pater, the dark and rich 9% abv 'Qua-dubbel'.

Back at Ben Vinken's bar, I used a jeton for a glass of Brouwerij Van den Bossche Buffalo bitter, poured from a 75cl bottle with a cork closure.

 

Aura Brasserie

Most of our group wanted to visit De Peerdestal, a restaurant where the menu included horse steak, but Simon and I decided to revisit Aura Brasserie, Hoogstraat 34, for an omelette.

I found a table inside near the bar with shelves for a variety of Belgian beer glasses. A few draught beers are available here including Antwerp's De Koninck APA (Antwaarpse Pale Ale).

Arriving before Simon, I ordered a St Feuillien Grisette Blonde Bio which was served with a small dish of coated nuts.

When Simon arrived, I ordered a bottle of Het Nest SchuppenBoer (Jack of Spades) - a 'floral and peachy tripel'.

Simon chose a bottle of Brasserie du Bocq Deugniet. The image on the bottle of a cheeky rascal (the meaning of Deugniet) was a surprise. Subsequent research shows that there is an Antwerp connection with the statue, from which the image is taken, being situated near the junction of two pedestrian streets -Korte Gasthuisstraat and Everdijstraat in the 'De Wilde Zee' neighbourhood, immediately south-east of Groenplaats and the Cathedral of our Lady. Barely visible from Google Maps Streetview, the bronze statue mounted on a plinth is the work of Luc Verlee for the city of Antwerp in 1976 according to a comprehensive blog about the city's statues by Alfons Van Camp. Another blog by Lia in Brussels links moustaches and music via John Lundström to this statue which has been 'kidnapped' and recovered on several occasions.

The excellent omelettes we ordered were served with a salad so my decision to order an additional Greek salad to share was somewhat unnecessary.

a view from Vlaaikensgang 'secret' passage

On our way back, after the meal, we noticed an alleyway leading east from Hoogstraat and detoured down it, turning left at a corner to emerge into Oude Koornmarkt. This charming 'secret' passage is Vlaaikensgang.

 

BierPassie Weekend XIX - late evening

Back at nearby Groenplaats we found a table on the west side of the square (on the left side of the plan from the programme).

I visited the Van Eecke (Leroy) Brewery stand (8) at the north end of the square, nearest the cathedral, for a glass of draught Hommelbier dry hopping 2018 'showcasing that earthy, floral Poperinge hop character'.

John, Andrew & Simon - Groenplaats

This Friday was not as warm in Antwerp as it was in the UK and it was nice to have a fleece to wear at our outside table in the square.

Another beer enjoyed at the festival this evening was Waterloo Récolte Saison from the Martin's stand (5).

Billie's Bier Kafetaria

We left Groenplaats before closing time and some took the tram to Dageraadplaats where we had all been the previous night.

However, Simon and I walked the 100 metres to Billie's Beer Kafetaria, Kammenstraat 12.

The choice of 11 draught beers is  displayed on a blackboard above the bar. These are sourced from around the world including AleSmith Speedway Stout (San Diego, USA) and Magic Rock Human Canonball DIPA (Huddersfield, UK).

At Billie's, most of the draught beers are more expensive than many of the bottled beers. Simon ordered a draught Rodenbach Alexander (6 euros) while a bottle of Schelde Brouwerij Hop Ruiter dry hopped IPA / Tripel (4 euros) suited me fine and was a favourite beer of the day.
With the help of SoundHound App it was possible to identify some of the decent music being played including Stoned Jesus (from Kiev) 'I'm the Mountain', Kaleo (from Iceland) 'Way Down We Go' and Austra (from Toronto) 'Lose It'.

My last beer at Billie's from a favourite Belgian brewery was also to my taste, a bottle of 7% abv Antigoon from The Musketeers Brewery Belgian Legends series, costing 3.5 euros.

A page from the beer menu illustrates that most Belgian beers are strong as Taras Boulba (4.5% abv) is included here in the Low Alcohol section!

It was nice to see Billie, who walked into 'his' bar some time after midnight!
Now it was time for me to walk the short 400 metres back to Hostel Pulcinella while Simon had to walk over 2km back to Hotel Ibis Budget, near Antwerp Centraal station.

* - any quoted beer descriptions are taken from CAMRA's Good Beer Guide Belgium (8th edition) - Joe Stange & Tim Webb.