Gelderland, NL - 2025

Gelderland is the largest province of the Netherlands, located in the centre-east of the country.

Travelling by train from Breda, between Antwerp and Rotterdam, to Zutphen, there are stops in Gelderland cities including Nijmegen and Arnhem. A few days later, a more northerly route back to Utrecht was via Apeldoorn in Gelderland.

Zutphen

View from 2nd floor front bedroom at B&B Hobbema

We stayed in Zutphen for two nights at a recommended B&B - Hobbema, a 1930s house in a quiet street near the converted watertower and within walking distance of the centre. We enjoyed chatting with our friendly hosts Marsje and Cor at breakfast time.

View west from De Wijnhuistoren towards river IJssel & road/rail bridge

Zutphen is on the eastern bank of the north flowing river IJssel at the point where it is joined by the river Berkel. Zutphen joined the Hanseatic League around 1285. The city has several historic towers and so is sometimes referred to as the city of towers. 

Our visit accidentally coincided with both the national Open Monumentendag (second weekend of September) and the local Dweildag (second Saturday of September).

These events gave us the opportunity to visit interesting buildings including the water tower and station signal box and to see a variety of marching bands performing around the city.

On Friday 12 September, after an interesting free guided visit to De Wijnhuistoren, involving steep climbs to gain 360 degree views of the city, we visited Camelot Cafe, Groenmarkt 32, whose terrace is visible from the tower (on the left in a previous photo) and through the window by our table (in photo above left). 

Tim enjoyed Juice Punch NEIPA, brewed by Frontaal Brewing Co (Breda) but served in a different brewer's glass. There's an extensive range of beers including some that are not shown on the three wall-mounted blackboards near the entrance.

Two hours later, after an interesting walk around some of the old streets of the city that we had seen from the tower, we arrived at Chamaven aan de Haven, on the northern quayside of Noorderhaven, which has new housing developments on both sides. Chamaven brewery is situated in an industrial area about a mile away.

There are views towards the waterfront terrace and old bridge over the river IJssel (Oude IJsselbrug). The small bar was busy with a large group when we arrived but there were free stools at a high table near the window.

There is a small range of draught beers (€3.50 for Estaminet Pils and €4.50 for Chamaven beers) supplemented by bottles (€5) in a fridge behind the bar.

Tim enjoyed Lieven from a bottle seen in the photo above. The Lentebier is slightly spicy. However, golden coloured Boele, on draught, was preferred. This 6.6% ABV beer was introduced in 2022.

Views of Noorderhaven and Het Koelhuis (above) on the the way to Bio Toko for a South East Asian meal and a beer.

Gulpener brew with barley and grains from farmers within cycling distance, water from their own well, and hops from the next village. It's claimed that the brewhouse is the most sustainable in Europe. Their Bio IPA is 6% ABV and described on the label as 'hoppy, fruity and fresh'. The brewery is in Gulpen, near Maastricht, Limburg province.

Leaving Bio Toko at 9.15pm we had time for another beer before returning to the B&B. Once back south of the railway line, we walked east towards Nieuwstadskerk / Sint Johannes de Doperkerk and called in at Cafe Pico, Lievevrouwestraat 10, just across the road from the church.

Inside dimly lit Cafe Pico, a hallway with a rail of coat hangers leads to the long bar with stools and the pool table area beyond. Tim enjoyed IJWit, a 6.5% ABV slightly cloudy wheat beer, brewed in Amsterdam by Brouwerij 't IJ (part owned by Duvel Moortgat since 2015). 

The Berkelpoort (water gate over river Berkel) 

As we walked back to the B&B, several buses passed us with Zutphen station as their destination, a reminder of the superior public transport available in the Netherlands. Our hosts were relieved to see us return safely as their guests are usually touring cyclists who have retired to their bedroom by 9pm.

On Saturday, after breakfast of juice, yogurt, fruit, (boiled egg), bread roll and fruit bread with coffee at the B&B (€7.50 extra) and permission to make a sandwich for lunch from bread and cheese slices remaining we spent a full day in Zutphen. The first Open Monument Day opportunity was to climb first stairs and then steep steps inside the nearby water tower. 

The only new bar we visited today was Bruis, on a corner of the broad space where Laarstraat and Paardenwal cross. Sitting at an outside table allowed us to hear music from a band playing nearby and spot our B&B hosts walking past. Marsje & Cor accepted our invitation to join us for a drink under the terrace awning. However, when torrential rain started we withdrew inside for shelter and another round of drinks. 

Tim enjoyed Swinckels' Superior Pilsner (5.3% ABV) in a tall glass and De Snor (The moustache) IPA in a stemmed glass. Royal Swinkels is based in North Brabant province in the south while the current Bruis guest beer, De Snor, is from nearby Velp, outside Arnhem.

Repeat visits to three venues allowed tasting of some further Dutch beers for the first time and an old Belgian favourite: Chamaven Wolf (Tripel) at Chamaven aan de Haven; Witte Parel (Budelse Brouwerij, North Brabant) at Bio Toko and Tripel Karmeliet at Cafe Pico.

Brummen

One stop away from Zutphen on the route south to Arnhem, the local train to Brummen takes only five minutes and crosses the river on the Oude IJsselbrug. 

Brummen is a small town known for Gallery Aaldering, the biggest classic car dealer in Europe, housed in an impressive building with a Grand Cafe.

Meg's father, RAF navigator Robert (Bob) Baker, parachuted into Brummen on 26 June 1943, after his Short Stirling bomber was damaged, crashing nearby. He lost a tooth (later returned to him) and was sheltered for a night before being taken away by four armed Germans. He would spend the rest of the war in various P.O.W camps.

Wim, Meg and Tiny at the bomber crash site, near Empe

Wim, Meg's Dutch contact with an interest in wartime history, and his wife Tiny live in Brummen, met us at the station and organised our time during a short stay. They showed us related locations and introduced us to two people with links to his 1943 arrival or subsequent family visits to the Netherlands. A video about Robert Baker, produced by Wim, can be viewed on YouTube.

While in Brummen, we enjoyed a substantial evening meal with Wim and Tiny at Dorpslokaal Concordia. We were able to stay at Corrie's B&B, an extension made to the property since Bob's short stay in 1943. The B&B with sitting room, bathroom and an upstairs bedroom has a lot of style and character giving views of a delightful garden. A very good breakfast with coffee was prepared for us including fruit juice, melon, yogurt, sliced cheese, tomatoes, rolls and fruit bread. Eggs / bacon was offered but declined.

The draught beers enjoyed by Tim and Meg at Concordia were brewed by Texels on the West Frisian island of Texel. Skuumkoppe (above, 6% ABV) is a fairly sweet wheat beer 'with hints of caramel and apricot'. The seasonal beer was Skiller Wit a 5% ABV wheat beer 'with a hint of citrus and spice'.

N.B. Booking a table is recommended for a visit to Dorpslokaal Concordia as space is limited.

Brussels - June 2025

On Sunday 22 June, after three days in Antwerp, our group caught the same train from the distinguished Antwerpen Centraal station (high level) to Brussels but Keith was the only one with a first class ticket. Staying at different hotels, four got off at Brussels Central while Tim continued to Brussels Midi / Zuid before walking to Hotel Barry via Av. de Stalingrad passing Cafe Bebo.

Our planned afternoon rendezvous at GIST was changed to La Fleur en Papier Dore due to a delayed opening. We were fortunate to find a table in the historic front room of La Fleur en Papier Dore (Het Goudblommeke in Papier). Andrew had the most eventful walk from his hotel with a long detour due to a road closure and a thwarted attempt to steal his smartphone.

Andrew, Simon & Richard

The historic bar is now linked with Brasserie Verschueren and Tim was happy to order a beer he always enjoys at both venues - Verschueren Saison served in a 'Verschu' branded straight glass (€5.20 - 40cl). Drinks are ordered at the bar in the middle 'room'. We found amusement from the handwritten personal notes found in the drawer of our table. It's a picturesque space and occasionally someone would enter from the street to take a photograph.

The European Bar Guide rated La Fleur en Papier Dore as number one in a 2025 Top 100 bars survey.

The bar at GIST with 16 taps and blackboard above with details

A short walk back to GIST which had just opened and initially we sat inside, although the music choice eventually drove us outside to a table in the shade. The two handpumps at the far end were not in use today and it looks like current management is not interested in continuing with cask ale. While we were indoors, two English men came in and asked for a cask ale. One of them was somewhat upset to find that none was available and did not seem to have any interest in the alternative beers available. Although we are CAMRA members we were not sympathetic!

Richard, Keith, Simon & Andrew

The small outside tables have a view of the Jacques Brel statue, which is also a popular spot for a celebrity photo opportunity. It's also on the route for the battery powered open top carriages which have superseded horse drawn carriages for tourist trips with a guide. 

Tim's beer choices here were draught Bertinchamps Framboise (favourite), draught Fee Verte and bottled 'beer of the moment' Joker DIPA Mango both from Brasserie Valduc-Thor a cooperative brewery in Wallonia, near Perwez, between Brussels and Namur. The current tap list for GIST can be found on Untappd as it is a verified venue.

A short walk down Rue du Chene, closeed to most traffic, past a mural leads to Poechenellekelder, just before the Mannekin Pis water feature.

There was a queue at the entrance to the courtyard as all the tables were occupied. A menu was pinnned to the railings. We asked if we could find a table inside and were allowed through to find plenty of free tables including one near the bar. 

Keith, Andrew, Simon and Richard with a cabinet of Mannekin Pis figures behind Keith on the left

We hoped this position might assist with prompt service but this was not the case with most staff wearing t-shirts with Student in large letters on the back. Despite the hot weather we ordered lasagne (€15), except for Keith who ordered spaghetti allowing us his unwanted grated parmesan topping. It was served with bread and butter and needed several minutes to cool. Minutes were precious for Simon who had an evening Eurostar train to catch. Simon would leave first after making a generous contribution towards the total bill as it was only a few days in advance of his birthday.

Tim enjoyed two bottled honey beers on this visit, Barbar Blonde (Lefebvre, €5.80) and Biere de Miel Biologique (Dupont, €6.80). Beer prices are higher than in some places but other factors like the unique decor always make it good value overall. 

Breweriana (& Smurf!) viewed from foot of stairs to the toilets

A seated lifesize puppet figure with a cap monitors the top of the staircase to the toilets below. The student bar staff members may not have the confidence and expertise of the regular staff and like to chat amongst themselves but they do know the trick of pulling on a string behind the bar to make this puppet raise his arm when Andrew passed and touched his hand!

After two hours at Poechenellekelder we moved on to Le Lombard at the corner of Rue du Lombard and Rue du Marche au Charbon.

This time we sat outside with a view of a mural of Victor Sackville, a fictional spy for the UK during WWI, illustrated by Belgian artist Francis Carin.

Tim enjoyed a tall glass of Brugse Zot Blond (€5) here.

After an hour at Le Lombard we headed north east along Rue du Marche au Charbon towards 'Delirium Village', passing Brusaille the 'first comic strip mural, back in 1991' drawn by Frank Pé.

On reaching Impasse de la Fidélité we had a look around Delirium Taphouse which has 27 beers on tap and was not very busy.

The colourful wall of illuminated brewery signs at the back of the Taphouse is an impressive feature.

However, as Keith, Andrew and Richard wanted a change from beer, we headed to Delirium Monasterium with a wider range of drinks and sat at a table just outside, in the busy passageway.

While the others had Pastis and Absinthe, Tim enjoyed Delirium Red (left) and Deliria (right, a special brewed annually for International Women's Day). 

The sweet green beer with a lime flavour (Floris Cactus, 4.2% ABV) was a gift from Keith which the barman let him keep after pouring it for him by mistake. It was noticeable that the staff do a good job at both bars we visited here.

From Delirium Village we went by separate ways to our hotels. 

Tim called in at Cafe Bebo for coffee on Monday morning before his Eurostar train back to London. A good range of draught and bottled beers is also available. The terrace was busier than the high-ceilinged interior on Monday morning after the light rain shower had passed.

Three of these bars (Poechenellekelder, GIST and La Fleur en Papier Dore) were also visited by Tim and friends from the Non Blondes quiz team at The Lion, Newbury, in March 2025. More details and photos are included in the post - A Night in Brussels

Antwerp - June 2025

On the annual trip to Antwerp for Beer Passion Weekend in late June, our group also visited Brussels and Lillo (Tim) or Ghent (Andrew, Keith, Richard & Simon) as described in separate posts:

Antwerp - Beer Passion Weekend 2025 at Handelsbeurs

Antwerp & Lillo by Waterbus 20 June 2025 + Ghent

As usual, we also visited several bars and taprooms in Antwerp during the trip including several favourites mentioned in previous posts. This post will start with a first visit to Station 1280 and include a few details of bars earmarked for a visit in future. 

Station 1280

In previous years, Station 1280 was always closed when an attempt was made to visit this bar, tucked away inside a neglected arcade of shops known as the Beehive, Winkelcentrum Oudaan, which lies just east of a landmark tall building, Politietoren.

Inside the main building, Station 1280 is next door to Uncharted Brew Co, a microbrewery which was closed as on previous visits.

Right: Andrew, Keith & Richard outside Station 1280

Having just met up with Andrew, Keith and Richard outside a favourite bar, Oud Arsenaal, which was closed this week, Station 1280 was Tim's first opportunity for a beer in Antwerp, the others having already enjoyed a beer at De Kroon van Hopland. On Thursday 19 June, Simon was still on his way to Antwerp.

Inside, there was a limited range of draught beers including some imported beers. The bar's current tap list with prices can be found on Untappd. Tim enjoyed Saison Dupont Biologique. Cheers to Richard who paid for our round of beers.

Bars to visit in future

The weather was very warm and it was tempting to stop at every bar but some had not yet opened and the temptation was resisted in other cases.

On the south side of Paardenmarkt, near the university, there are two colourful beer cafes that may be popular with students - Cafe Cousteau and Cafe Het Kleintje.

Bar Nest     +    Bar Noord

In the green area of Park Spoor Noord which is reclaimed railway land near the docks, with little shade to offer, there are two buildings which include contemporary spacious bar cafes with pleasant views and shade - Bar Nest and Bar Noord.

Near Museum aan de Stroom (MAS) and the docks are traditional warehouses including Felix Pakhuis which now includes a Wolf Sharing Food Market on the ground floor. There are various street food type kiosks and food / drinks are ordered online with a notification when ready for collection.

The draught beer range includes two Wolf beers - Wolf Blond and Wolf White both brewed at nearby Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie. Other beers include Cristal Pils and Triple d'Anvers.

Favourite bars and taprooms revisited

Panorama at Pelikaan with Simon, Keith, Andrew and Richard

Later on the Thursday evening, we chose Cafe de Pelikaan, on a Melkmarkt corner, near the cathedral, as a rendezvous for Simon. With tables inside, facing the bar, we were in a convenient position for service and to observe the constant activity behind the busy bar. The doors and windows were open on this warm evening. 

There's a good range of draught beers including Westmalle Duo and Tripel d'Anvers. Tim later ordered a local bottled beer not previously noticed - Bolder. This Antwerp brewed 7.5% Belgian Pale Ale, served in a delicate stemmed glass, was on the dry side and cost €4.60. A variety of music was playing including tracks by Nick Cave and Sam & Dave. On a busy Thursday night we stayed here until it was late before walking back to our various destinations, all quite near to the central station. 

On Friday, after a boat trip on the river Scheldt, Tim revisited De Ware Jacob and his visit to this favourite bar is covered in the Antwerp & Lillo by Waterbus post.

On Saturday, after Richard's traditional Saturday run, a double circuit of triangular Stadspark when in Antwerp, our lunchtime rendezvous was at the Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie taproom in Eilandje, the docks area. Tim's 9000 step walking route here was via Park Spoor Nord where Bar Nest and Bar Noord are located.

As one of the brewery's original crowdfunders, this visit is a tradition encouraged by Keith. We sat outside at a table with a parasol and went inside the taproom to order beers from the bar. New beers on this visit included Cadix Pils 'the only and original Antwerp Pilsner', a smooth and refreshing 5.2% ABV lager, not to be confused with Super Cadix, a dry hopped IPL variant. From the bottle, Martin's Populus is a limited edition 8% ABV lime blossom Tripel. 

However, draught Eilandje, named after the neighbourhood and now a regular ABC beer was Tim's favourite beer of those selected on this hot afternoon. It has tropical flavours and is an 'Antwerp interpretation of NEIPA'.

On the way to Dr Beer we had a look inside the historic Felix Pakhuis. However, after getting separated in the maze-like interior, both sub groups gave up on the idea of ordering a drink from the bar which is part of the Wolf Sharing Food Market.

Reunited at Dr Beer, Tim was excited to spot Boskeun, the strong Easter beer from De Dolle brouwers on draught tap 6. Apparently Boskeun is a childhood nickname given to Jo, one of the two Herteleer brothers and brewers, and means a hare. This would prove to be his favourite beer of the day.

Left: Simon & Richard + Right: (photo: Richard R) Tim & Andrew

While most customers, including Keith, Richard and Simon were outside, Andrew persuaded Tim to take advantage of a suspended cane chair for a unique seating experience! 

Jeroen Peeters arrived before our departure and Tim appreciated being greeted by the bar's owner just as we were leaving. 

Het Souke, on a corner of pedestrianised Hoogstraat, looked different with an A-board for LePlan outside and a Le Plan sign above the window. The translation of the words chalked on the A-board is 'More than 40 Antwerp beers' and several of these are from Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie as illustrated by the red enamel Seef sign at the entrance. 

Subsequent research revealed a March 2025 report that Erwin Liekens (41) is the new operator of Het Souke. Tim remembers visits in previous years when Jacob Gouka ran the bar with a friendly attitude and an interesting choice of music.

LePlan is the name of a relatively new brewery based in Westmalle linked to Dirk Vermeersch, a former rally driver who also owns a Rhone vineyard. Draught LePlan Extra 5 (photo above left) was Tim's first beer at Antwerp Beer Passion in Handelsbeurs on Friday, but the 4.8% ABV Blonde was too dry for his taste.

Near Het Souke and up the road from De Ware Jacob, De Vagant has been a group favourite for many years. Once it was the bar to enjoy flavoured Jenevers before or after a meal at De Groote Witte Arend opposite. 

Since May 2022, run by Bart Daems, it has become an uncluttered natural space with high windows and ceiling, a table reserved for chess and a well chosen range of beers including seven on draught. On Saturday evening, Tim enjoyed a bottle of Radio Minerva Tripel (€4), now a regular Antwerpse Brouw Compagnie beer which is named after a popular Antwerp radio station.