A review of Brussels Beer City

Originally from Ireland, Eoghan Walsh has lived in Brussels for around ten years. Eoghan founded the Brussels Beer City blog in 2017. He was awarded Best Young Beer Writer of 2018 by the British Guild of Beer Writers. Eoghan contributes articles to Ferment, Pellicle and other publications.

Based on his articles featured in the now-defunct Belgian Beer & Food magazine, Eoghan published Brussels Beer City: Stories from Brussels’ Brewing Past as a printed book and e-book with a launch event at Brussels Beer Project on 7 October 2020.

On 22 October, an online book launch event and drink-a-long with Eoghan Walsh was hosted by Breandán Kearney, Belgian Smaak on Zoom. The beers suggested to complement the Q&A session were: Zinnebir, Zenne Pils (both Brasserie de la Senne) and Cantillon Gueuze, all brewed in Brussels.

An introductory chapter ‘A Tumultuous Past’ charts the history of brewing in Brussels through its vanished breweries leaving Cantillon as Brussels’ sole commercial brewery for nearly two decades until Brasserie de la Senne opened their brewery in Molenbeek in 2010.

Subsequent chapters cover vanished breweries: De Boeck; Atlas; Vandenheuvel; Wielemans-Ceuppens; Leopold; Belle-Vue and Caulier.

Boulevard Maurice Lemonnier - near Brussels Midi station

An Epilogue ‘In search of lost beers’ describes a Sunday spent with Joe Stange on a mission to drink a beer from each of the last four centuries of Brussels brewing history – Boon Lambic, Cantillon Geueze, CTS Scotch and Zinnebir ‘a Brussels pale ale’.

‘Catch a Falling Star’, the Vandenheuvel chapter looks at 1958, when the Atomium was the centrepiece of Expo 58 in Heizel and the brewery’s Ekla Pils was the ‘star of the Expo’. Within a decade many of the 32 breweries supplying Expo 58 had been merged or closed. Vandenheuvel was shut down, by its new owner Watneys, in 1974.

‘Monsieur Constant’, the Belle-Vue chapter describes the career of Constant Vanden Stock as patriarch of the Belle-Vue brewery which transformed the Lambic industry and president of Anderlecht football club. Eoghan’s interest in the football aspect reveals that he ‘always wanted to be a sports writer’.

The slim book, illustrated with a photograph for each chapter, lacks a map. After tracing online the brewery locations mentioned, my interest in visiting the remaining brewery buildings or traces, resulted in the production of a rough map (below) to illustrate this article and to complement the book. The map’s key identifies the icons which indicate whether any traces or buildings of the historic breweries remain.

The paperback book and Kindle edition can be purchased at: Amazon