Bewdley pubs - June 2021

 

While staying at Kidderminster Travelodge we used local buses and walked to Bewdley via the Severn Way on successive days from Arley to the north and from Stourport-on-Severn to the south.

On a previous visit to Bewdley in March 2014, a visit to the Little Pack Horse Inn marked the end of a day in Bridgnorth and Bewdley with CAMRA volunteers from Oxford Beer Festival. For more details see my Bridgnorth & Bewdley post.

Thursday 10 June 2021

The 297 bus from Kidderminster to Bridgnorth via Arley passed the Bellmans Cross Inn at Shatterford before descending via Arley Lane to the river Severn where we got off.

The Severn Way, on the east bank, was quiet, except for the occasional passing Severn Valley Railway steam train. It goes through woods, around a reservoir and along empty lanes before reaching our destination - Bewdley.

The George Hotel

The George Hotel, a large Wetherspoon pub, was our first call and it was nice to find an outside table in a wide paved passageway where we ordered drinks using an app. 

The only local beer was Wood's Shropshire Hills Beauty which was served chilled.

The Mug House Inn

After a sandwich by the riverside we managed to gain admittance to the Mug House Inn and after signing in were led to a free table in the attractive patio garden which was busy with diners.

It was good to find Worcestershire Way by Bewdley Brewery served in the correct glass here. The pale 3.6% abv session beer was refreshing with citrus notes. Meg enjoyed a pot of tea.

With an interval before the bus to Kidderminster we headed east back over the bridge and then past the Black Boy Inn, under the Severn Valley Railway bridge and the Great Western to find a bus stop on the Kidderminster Road.

Friday 11 June 2021

Stourport-on-Severn

The 3 bus to Astley Cross dropped us at York Street in Stourport-on-Severn. The Severn Way on the east bank of the river provides a pleasant route along mainly flat ground, through a park, caravan sites, narrow stretches of footpath and wider tracks to reach Bewdley.

The Black Boy

Located at the top of the steep Wyre Hill, it was worth the climb to reach the historic Black Boy.

We were shown to a table in the large beer garden passing blackboards with details of drinks and food.

My first pint of Three Tuns XXX The Pale Ale was so good that a second one was necessary! Brewed in Bishops Castle, Shropshire, the 4.3% abv pale ale is 'a straw-coloured bitter with a light malty sweetness, the taste is completed with delicate floral flavours to release its earthy character.'

The Black Boy, Wyre Hill

Meg remembers staying a night at a Black Boy hotel in Bewdley as a girl when her parents took her on holiday. We had climbed the hill to see if this was the one but as the staff advised that it has not been a hotel in recent times then it must have been the Black Boy Inn, Kidderminster Road, that we passed on Thursday despite its changed outward appearance.

Kidderminster pubs - June 2021

 

A three night stay at the Travelodge in Kidderminster provided an opportunity for a towpath walk along the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal (Wednesday) to Stourport and (after bus journeys) footpath walks from Arley to Bewdley (Thursday) and from Stourport to Bewdley (Friday).

Severn Valley Railway bridge over Staffs & Worcs canal

Once a centre of carpet making, Kidderminster still retains steam and diesel hauled Severn Valley Railway services to Bridgnorth via Bewdley and Arley. 

Wednesday 9 June 2021

The Travelodge is located facing the Watermill 2-for-1 pub by the canal and near the busy A451 to Stourport-on-Severn. 

We passed a few pubs on the late afternoon walk as we approached Stourport but they were either uninviting or closed.

The Castle Inn

After a bus ride back to Kidderminster's Travelodge hotel, it was soon time to head out again, this time walking north along Park Lane until we reached the Castle Inn. We went inside, after putting on our face masks and received a friendly welcome. We decided to sit outside where there are tiered patio areas leading down to the canal, with the towpath on the opposite bank. 

We enjoyed pints of the pale Wye Valley Brewery HPA with table service for £3.10 pint. 

The Weavers at Park Lane

The Weavers at Park Lane is only 50 metres further north. This is one of the two pubs named Weavers in Kidderminster.

On this occasion there was just time to sneak a quick photo of the pumpclips at the bar before we were ushered to a table outdoors, overlooking the canal. 

We enjoyed pints of Bromsgrove's Woodcote Brewing SPA here. Also spotted at the bar, Squires Gold is another beer supplied by this brewery.

From here, we crossed the bridge over the canal and followed the towpath opposite the Weavers towards the bus station and visited Tappeto Lounge, near the bus station for a meal. We returned to the hotel by walking along the towpath, passing The Weavers again and resting ducks.

By 9.30pm, when we reached the Watermill, the light was fading.

Thursday 10 June 2021

A fine day was spent walking along the Severn Valley Way footpath from Arley to Bewdley with several sightings of steam hauled SVR trains. Local buses provided the links from / to Kidderminster. 

Later, walking from the Kidderminster Travelodge to the station via Green Street, we passed the Museum of Carpet situated in Stour Vale Mill but it was too late to visit. We also passed the Weavers Real Ale House at 98 Comberton Hill.

The King and Castle 

The King and Castle is the pub located on the left side of Kidderminster Town station which is the Southern terminus of the Severn Valley Railway. 

The King and Castle was awarded Wyre Forest CAMRA 2019 Pub of the Year. 

There are eight handpumps on the bar and a choice of filled cobs (rolls / baps) in a display case.  The beer choice included beers from Bathams, Bewdley, Hobsons, Hop Shed and Purity breweries.

Having only recently enjoyed a couple of pints of Bathams Best Bitter at the Swan, Chaddesley Corbett, on Wednesday lunchtime, my choice of Hobsons Old Prickly, brewed in Cleobury Mortimer, proved to be another good one - pale and smooth with a thick head. Meg enjoyed her pint of Bathams Bitter after missing out on Wednesday.

The Station Inn

We were especially keen to visit the Station Inn as it has a large garden area. It was only a short walk away, in a quiet residential street on the east side of the Birmingham - Worcester railway line. 

We were ushered to a table in the pretty patio garden area. We could hear trains on the Birmingham - Worcester line passing but not see them.

Two pints of local beer served in the correct glass, looking and tasting cool and fresh, could not have been better anywhere this evening!

Based in Stourbridge since 1993, Enville Brewery advise that Enville Ale is 'based on a 19th century recipe, this traditional beekeepers ale is light in colour with fruity notes and a hint of sweetness to complement the dry hoppy taste. Brewed using our own natural well water, Maris Otter floor malted barley, specially selected honeys and pure English hops ...'. 

Butty Bach is Welsh for 'little friend'. Wye Valley Brewery advise 'We brew it using Maris Otter and Crystal malts together with locally grown Fuggles, Goldings and Bramling Cross hops'.  

Friday 11 June 2021

After a bus ride from a stop near the hotel to Stourport-on-Severn we had breakfast in the sunny and sheltered courtyard garden of The Windlass Cafe. We then walked north following the quiet Severn Valley Way to Bewdley and a pub break before catching a bus back to Kidderminster. 

The Castle Inn

Our Friday evening in Kidderminster would be an earlier and shorter version of Thursday's in order to be back at the hotel for the 8pm kick off of the opening fixture of the postponed Euro 2020 football competition (Turkey v Italy at Stadio Olimpico, Rome).

We arrived just too late to claim the last free table at the King and Castle but were relieved when we were again able to claim a table in the patio garden of the Station Inn, without a reservation. 

This time our first beers were Wye Valley HPA, brewed with Target and Celeia hops. Later a pint of Enville Ale would provide a slightly sweeter finish.

Although we only visited a few of Kidderminster's wide variety of pubs, in an era when drinking outside was preferable and the weather favourable, we think that we found the best places.

Greenwich, Poplar & Limehouse - Friday 28 May 2021

 

Another fine day in London Docklands. It took a little while to find the Leon in the Lower Mall of Jubilee Place at Canary Wharf but it was worth the effort. An interesting walk along dock sides and then via Roffey Street and St John's Park to Folly House Beach at low water. It was a surprise to find there were single bricks and rusty nails amidst the sand, shingle, flotsam and jetsam on the beach looking towards the Greenwich Peninsula. 

To find sheep grazing on the big field at Mudchute Park was another surprise and it was like being in the countryside for the walk from the Pier Street entrance to the exit near Mudchute DLR which leads to Millwall Park.

Once across Manchester Road it was on to Greenwich through the foot tunnel from Island Gardens (which overlooks the Thames with panoramic views towards Greenwich - photo above).

No visit to Greenwich is complete without a sight of the restored Cutty Sark and conveniently, the Greenwich entrance to the foot tunnel is very close to the historic sailing ship. After stops for coffee and lunch (The Andes Empanadas from Greenwich Market) it was time to return to the Thames.

Following the riverside footpath east in front of the Old Royal Naval College and past the Admiral Lord Nelson statue led to the side of the Trafalgar Tavern bedecked with flowers. The roof terrace was covered by tarpaulins but has previously been accessible to customers.

In May 2020, Boak and Bailey tweeted 'Reading about The Trafalgar Tavern at Greenwich, South East London, built in 1839. It seems to have closed at some point before World War I before being converted into a military hospital in 1915. It didn't reopen until 1965. That's quite a hiatus.'

Photo: wikiart.org

The view from the river frontage of the Trafalgar Tavern was painted by James Tissot c. 1878. Lucy Paquette writes 'The Trafalgar Tavern was one of four riverside inns operating at that time; all were known for their whitebait dinners – for diners with the means to enjoy them.'

The pedestrian route then goes behind the Trafalgar Tavern and the entrance to the Yacht is adjacent to the rear entrance of the Trafalgar Tavern.

The Cutty Sark

Continuing along Crane Street, one reaches Highbridge Wharf, giving river views again in front of the historic Trinity Hospital. Once past the front of Greenwich power station, with its disused coal jetty, you reach Ballast Quay, the location of the Cutty Sark, a Young's pub.

Andrew Grumbridge (Dulwich Raider) and Vincent Raison (Dirty South) describe the Cutty Sark in the Ales of the Riverbank chapter of their (recommended) book 'Today South London, Tomorrow South London': 'The Cutty Sark has it all. Several ales, a stone floor, a huge ancient fireplace downstairs and the Crow's Nest room on the third floor with superb views of the river - and there are plenty of tables by the water, across the cobbled street.'

On our visit, there was only one table by the river free so obviously we finally stopped for a beer. A half pint of Young's Ordinary, once brewed in Wandsworth, was £2.50 and disappointingly, served in a lager glass. However, it tasted fine and was served in good condition. 

After this refreshment we could have continued along the west bank of the Greenwich Peninsula to reach the O2 but instead we caught a 188 bus from Trafalgar Road towards North Greenwich as far the Millennium Village, Oval Square stop which is opposite the entrance to Southern Park.

A footpath leads to a boardwalk over wetlands with handrails through a wooded area with views of a lake at the edge of the Greenwich Millenium Village. This leads to the Greenwich Peninsula Ecology Park on the eastern side of the Greenwich Peninsula. It is another green oasis worth seeking out in London. 

Thanks to John Rogers, author of This Other London, for sharing a video of his Greenwich Peninsula 'New London' walk on YouTube in April 2021. This was the inspiration for a holiday in Docklands and the chance to follow in his footsteps. 

Reaching the Olympian Way footpath and cyclepath, next to the river Thames, you can see the Thames Barrier to the east. We headed north towards the O2 with new residential tower blocks on the left and the Thames on the right with views across to Trinity Buoy Wharf. 

Quantum Cloud by Antony Gormley

There were sculpture artworks by the river to admire, part of  The Line, a dedicated public art walk. 

As we made a circuit of the O2 along the riverside path and then 'inland' to North Greenwich station, we saw more sculptures, including A Slice of Reality by Richard Wilson.

The Festival Inn, Poplar

Chrisp Street Market Clock Tower in distance

After some delay at North Greenwich bus station we boarded the first 108 bus bound for Stratford via the Blackwall Tunnel. Typically, two more 108 buses came along soon afterwards. We got off at Chrisp Street Market in Poplar.

It was 5.30pm and most of the market stalls had been packed away. There was a long queue at a bank cashpoint machine. It could have been a world away from Canary Wharf although it's only a mile away.

The reason for visiting this area, rebuilt as the Lansbury Estate for the Festival of Britain in 1951, was to see the Festival Inn, recently featured in a blog post by Boak & Bailey as 'the first significant post-war pub'.

Two of the side windows of the single storey section, fronting Kerbey Street, featured the Festival of Britain symbol. A Scotsman was involved in a lively discussion at the main entrance to this part of the pub, fronting the pedestrian precinct. The door of the Kerbey Street entrance was propped open allowing a view inside of floorboards, wooden furniture and wood panelling with pictures hung at a high level. Several interior photos and a plan are included on CAMRA's Pub Heritage website page for the Festival Inn. It would be nice to venture inside the pub on a future visit to East London.

The Grapes, Limehouse

The Travelodge hotel was within walking distance, east along the busy East India Dock Road, with stops en route to photograph Frederick Gibberd's Chrisp Street Market clock tower and Erno Goldfinger's 26 storey Balfron Tower. 

To reach the Grapes for an 8pm table booking, Google maps suggested a 115 bus to Limehouse Town Hall or Docklands Light Railway to Westferry but instead we took the D3 bus from East India station to Westferry Circus and then walked along the riverside path and over the footbridge at Limekiln Dock (where the photo above was taken) before reaching Narrow Street a short distance from the historic pub.

A blue plaque above the door of the Grapes shows the pub dates from 1583. A sign at the entrance asks customers to wait to be seated and we were welcomed by the friendly Sergio who showed us to a table between the bar and the door to the balcony that overlooks the river Thames. 

After Sergio feigned disappointment that we did not accept his suggestion of whisky to drink, we ordered pints of Adnams Ghost Ship instead. Athough our first pints may have been from near the end of the barrel, its taste and condition was better than my previous experiences of this beer served from cask or bottle. 

Each table had a small laminated mini tapas menu with tempting choices. The Fish and Chips, chosen from the blackboard, as a main course was accompanied by mashed peas and a creamy coleslaw. The chips had been salted already so the absence of a salt cellar was not an issue. Sergio or his efficient and tireless female colleague had to fetch all the dishes from the narrow staircase leading to the restaurant and kitchen upstairs. 

A vantage point, from the table beside the bar, provided the chance to take a photo of the bar counter and the small front area beyond now busy with customers. The prints and pictures on the claret coloured walls include portraits of past visitors to the pub including Charles Dickens. Further pints of Ghost Ship, now pulled from a fresh cask were the perfect accompaniment to an evening at The Grapes with its jovial atmosphere and memorably high standards.

After settling our bill with Sergio, it was easy to retrace our steps east along the river Thames to Westferry Circus and catch a D3 bus back to East India station and then a short walk to the hotel.