Leeds & Holbeck

Leeds floor map in the Brodrick Hall of Leeds City Museum

The following headings: North Bar, Yard pubs, Wetherspoon pubs, Kirkstall Brewery Taproom & Kitchen, Northern Monk Refectory are included later in this post. Photos of beers mentioned are included at the end of the post. Click on pub's name for link to more details in CAMRA's WhatPub guide.

On Monday 16 January 2023, 12 CAMRA members from Berkshire, Hampshire, South London, Surrey and Wiltshire met in Leeds at the start of  a five day visit.

The Scarbrough Hotel, near Leeds station, was the 3pm rendezvous of the group many of whom had also enjoyed each others company on some of Mark's previous group visits including those based in Stourbridge (2019) and Liverpool (2019 & 2022).

This Nicholson's pub was once favoured by organiser Mark Geeson when he worked nearby in Leeds. 

Tim's beer choice: an obvious choice for the first beer in the city - Leeds Brewery - Leeds Pale (£2.40 half pint) + Black Sheep - Fresh Start Ruby Ale (£2 half pint). 

NB Per pint prices were relatively less expensive and the CAMRA discount was not claimed.

After walking along a road under Leeds station accessed from Neville Street and crossing the channelled River Aire which flows underneath the station we reached The Hop, located in arches near the south side exit of the station.

The Hop is one of the pubs owned by Ossett Brewery and has a popular music theme. Inside there are two levels. Occupying seats near the entrance, several members of the group took advantage of the special pie and a pint for £7 offer.

Tim's beer choice: Ossett Brewery - White Rat (£2.10 half pint).

It was dark when we left the Hop and our route to the next pub involved crossing the Leeds and Liverpool canal by footbridge and then a short walk west along Water Lane at the northern end of Holbeck.

At the dimly lit bar of the Midnight Bell, Tim's beer choice: Ilkley Brewery - Ilkley Blonde (£2.30 half pint). Another room had slightly brighter lighting with candles.

It was only about a 300 metre walk to reach the whitewashed Grove Inn on Back Row which has two entrances and several rooms inside with a central bar.

The music room has a raised stage in the corner. The bar counter had a plate of pork pies and pasties.

Our group ended up occupying all the tables in a cosy front room with warmth from the fireplace. 

The unspoilt traditional interior and friendly service made this pub the highlight of the trip so far.

Tim's beer choices here included: Ilkley Brewery - Mary Jane (£4 pint) and Acorn Brewery - Barnsley Gold (£2.30 half pint) to accompany a pork pie (£2.50).

The Adelphi was the next rendezvous, and could be reached via a riverside path without much of a detour from the most direct route by road.

The dimly lit interior has several high ceilinged rooms and features etched glass partitions and tiled passageways. This Victorian pub is on CAMRA's National inventory of historic pub interiors.

There is a central bar. Tim's beer choice was simply to follow the rules: Titanic Brewery - Plum Porter (£4.90 pint). We would leave the pub at 9.30pm and go to our separate hotels.

North Bar, Leeds

North Bar (a photo from earlier in the day)

However, Tim and Mark ended up inside North Bar, 24 New Briggate, en route to their hotels.

Already established as Tim's favourite Leeds bar from a previous visit in 2016, the dimly lit interior of the narrow space had tables free when we arrived.

Two cask ales from North Brewing Co were available and we would have a half of each before the cold draught from a purposely open door after 11.30pm persuaded us to call it a day. 17 beers and ciders were listed in the Keg section of the menu.

Mark and Tim's beer choices: North Brewing - Vanishing Point Blonde Ale (£2.20 half pint) and North Brewing - Full Fathom 5 Coffee Coconut Porter (£2.65 half pint). Music played had a funky feel including tracks by Dr John and Arthur Conley.

Tim revisited North Bar on Wednesday 18 January after a day out in Saltaire and Shipley. Perched on a tall stool at a high table near the back of the bar, his first beer was a schooner of Attic Brew Co - Signals IPA (2/3 pint, £5.20) from a keg font.

After checking that closing time was after midnight tonight, a bottle of Orval (£5.10) was the nightcap after noticing a promotional blackboard. The Orval coat hooks had been spotted on the previous visit.

Music played on Wednesday night included tracks by some of Tim's favourites: Kurt Vile, Dry Cleaning and Yo La Tengo. This may explain why North Bar is obviously popular with musicians.

Yard pubs

Tim visited two good pubs partly concealed from Briggate pedestrian street as they can only be accessed via alleyways.

Visited with Graham Porter on Tuesday evening, the Angel Inn, Angel Inn Yard. This is a Samuel Smith's pub with beer mats emphasising that it is a mobile, tablet and laptop free zone so it was only possible to take an external photo (above). However, the Angel Inn Facebook page has some plans and photos including one of the cellar. The bar area was noisily busy so we sat in the main room which has bench seating around the walls facing distinctive tables and stools with slightly angled legs. We enjoyed Samuel Smith - Old Brewery Bitter (£3 pint) and Tim remembered this as the best pint of a day that included the Transpennine Real Ale Trail.

Some of our group visited the renowned Whitelock's Ale House, Turks Head Yard, on Wednesday evening after visiting Saltaire and Shipley. It was dimly lit inside enhanced by candlelight. 

Tim's beer choice: Ridgeside Brewing Co - Hold Fast: Calypso Session IPA (Cheers! tankard)

Wetherspoon pubs in Leeds

There are many Wetherspoon pubs in Leeds and Tim visited Beckett's Bank, Stick or Twist and Wetherspoons at Leeds station for breakfast or an evening meal.

Looking at the walls in Wetherspoon pubs usually reveals some useful information although the blackboard with a list of Yorkshire breweries at Beckett's Bank is now looking rather out of date!

Kirkstall Brewery Taproom & Kitchen

On Wednesday 18 January, Tim caught a 60 Aireline bus from Park Row to the Willow Road stop on the Kirkstall Road on a frosty morning to visit Leeds Industrial Museum (£5 admission) by the Leeds and Liverpool canal via Viaduct Road. After a fascinating walk through the multiple levels of the former Armley Mills, there was time to photograph the exteriors of Dave's Pies & Ales and the Cardigan Arms, near each other on Kirkstall Road and Cardigan Fields shopping centre. These establishments have been noted for a future visit.

The Kirkstall Brewery Taproom & Kitchen is a short bus ride back towards Leeds city centre along the Kirkstall Road, back under the railway viaduct and just past the ITV studios.

There are views of the brewery from the impressive entrance hall which features a stained glass window. The Kirkstall Claw (£1) offers the chance to grab merchandise and cans of beer.

The Taproom opens at 12 noon and was initially empty giving an opportunity to take some photos.

The main seating area at the front gets plenty of light from the big windows but the bar area is well shaded and features suspended historic illuminated signs.

Tim's beer choices: Kirkstall - Three Swords Extra Pale Ale (£1.95 half pint) and after a taster to check it was not too sour, Kirkstall - keg Blackberry Sour (£2.75 half pint).

Northern Monk Refectory

Pub in Sheepscar closed in 1982 - model at Leeds City Museum

On the last day of the trip, Friday 20 January, a visit to Leeds City Museum and nearby Leeds Art Gallery was followed by a visit to the Northern Monk Refectory in Holbeck.

Housed in the Old Flax Store, it is next to the larger Marshall's Mill, formerly a flax spinning mill.

The Refectory is on the first floor with the original Northern Monk brewery on the ground floor.

Up to 16 keg beers and ciders and up to two cask ales are served at the brick-fronted bar under a whitewashed vaulted ceiling. Tim met up with Paul Rhoods and Mark Geeson who had arrived earlier at the Refectory which opens at 12 noon (closed Mondays).

There are plenty of solid tables with benches or chairs for seating. Unusual features in the Refectory include a stainless steel funnel for milled malted barley to feed the mash tun below and historic firefighting equipment.

Tim's beer choices: cask version of Northern Monk - The Daily Mash (£2.40 half pint) and keg Northern Monk - Chocolate Caramel and Biscuit Porter (£2.75 half pint), both superb!

A mixture of music was played including some heavy rock followed by tracks by: Ozark Mountain Devils, America and Todd Rundgren

With an LNER train to London to catch at 14.45, Tim left with the others who were heading for nearby Grove Inn but parted at Wharf Approach stopping to take a photo eastwards from the road bridge over the Leeds and Liverpool canal. There would be no time for a stop at The Hop on the remaining short walk to the south entrance of Leeds station. 

A visit to Leeds and the surrounding area is recommended to anyone who enjoys beers from Yorkshire and beyond. This post includes only a few of the many pubs worth visiting.

Liverpool (Baltic Triangle) - June 2022

Returning to Liverpool in June 2022, provided an opportunity to revisit the Baltic Fleet and to visit Black Lodge Brewing and Cains Brewery for the first time. 

The Baltic Fleet

First visited on a night in January 2019, it was nice to revisit the Baltic Fleet in daylight hours, on Monday 6 June.

The paintwork on the chimneys make them look like a ship's funnels. The main entrance is on the side furthest from the narrow end with a side door allowing access to the chained off outside seating area.

Four cask ales were available and I chose Cascade Pale Ale from Carnival Brewing Company (Liverpool). After some walking and a visit to Radical Landscapes at Tate Liverpool, it was a delight to find a beer exactly to my taste and a chance to sit down. The 4.2% ABV session pale is brewed with wheat and oats making it soft, sweet and fruity. (£4.20 pint / card payment only).

Two days later I would return to the Baltic Fleet, after a visit to nearby Black Lodge Brewing, and enjoy a glass of Brimstage Brewery (The Wirral) Trapper's Hat, an award winning 3.8% ABV golden ale. (£1.80 1/2 pint).

Cains Brewery and Bar

On Wednesday 8 June, after a day in Chester, I ventured to Cains Brewery and Bar, at the southern base of the extended Baltic Triangle. My visit was only days after the opening on 2 June and too soon for any beers from the new brewery to be available.

My pint of Ossett White Rat, a 4% ABV dry and hoppy pale ale was enjoyable but on the expensive side (£4.80). I had to ask for the glass to be topped up (photo after) and was not offered a choice of a glass without a handle - hey ho!

There is no doubt that little expense has been spared in furnishing the new Cains Brewery and Bar to a high standard. I liked the bare brick walls and high ceilings in the main bar and the view of the brewery but had a few gripes apart from the price of the beer and glassware. There were liberal amounts of greenery as decoration and features but it was all plastic! The music, that was played quite loudly, was not recognisable classic tunes or even anything unusual and interesting.

Hopefully, the quality of the new Cains Brewery beers will make Cains Brewery and Bar worthwhile visiting in future.

In any case, the surrounding Cains Brewery Village is worth a visit. This area, south east of Parliament Street and Grafton Street, is the home for several bars and food markets including those in the collage above.

There's also an Abbey Road mural by Paul Curtis that is an invitation to step into the frame for a photo opportunity!

My walking route to Black Lodge Brewing was not the one recommended by Google maps but it did allow me to see some buildings, murals and a statue that would have been missed otherwise.

Black Lodge Brewing

Access to Black Lodge Brewing is only possible via Kings Dock Street unless you know your way around the tunnels of Liverpool, one of which has a (usually!) blocked entrance nearby.

There were only a few customers when I arrived soon after 7pm. As it was a warm evening, the outside bar, housed in a 10 foot container, was in use as well as the interior bar.

Hannah and Daniel made me feel very welcome and served me with a glass of Start the Parade. This 4.2% ABV American Pale Ale is hopped with Citra, Simcoe and Mosaic and made a perfect start to my visit. 

The Craft Beer Expo glasses are for the popular event held at Black Lodge Brewing and (adjacent) Sub Rosa with the next one scheduled for 16-18 June 2022.

The keg beers are sensibly priced, based on 2/3 pint servings. The regular Black Lodge branded glasses have lines marked for 1/3 pint and 2/3 pint. A couple of cask ales are often also available from the main bar. My second beer, A Better Land, 4.8% ABV, was hopped with Amarillo and Azacca and I was assured that the Liverpool water is part of the explanation for its excellent quality.

I had a quick look inside the main bar / brewery and noticed that there was plenty of greenery, with real plants, in contrast to Cains Brewery and Bar!

Looking away from the bar you notice an unusual fire basket that was fashioned locally but looks as though it came from outer space! 

There was just time to order a third half pint before Black Lodge Brewing closed for the evening. This was a good moment to persuade Hannah and Daniel to pose with copies of West Berkshire CAMRA's Ullage magazine that I had been distributing. No Condition is Permanent is a 5% ABV juicy pale ale brewed with Citra & Idaho 7 hops. 

I could not have asked for better beers or more friendly hosts than I was privileged to enjoy on this memorable evening. Cheers!

The Bridewell

After stopping for a half pint at the Baltic Fleet, I headed north on Wapping and then right into Liver Street, the northern boundary of the Baltic Triangle. Passing beyond Park Lane, the eastern edge of the Baltic Triangle, the entrance to The Bridewell can be found at the corner of Argyle Street and Campbell Square.

Formerly a Victorian police station (note the blue lamp and pub sign), the cells are now used as seating areas and there is an enclosed patio area.

At the bar, my half pint of  Kirkstall Brewery Jasper (£1.85) tasted sour. It was easily exchanged for Kirkstall Brewery Three Swords, a 4.5% ABV extra pale ale brewed with three American hop varieties.

It was a new experience to pass the heavy cell door and sit inside a cell with a beer! Perhaps not the best venue for anyone prone to claustrophobia though!

With good music being played (Moby, Bahamas, The Smiths) it was an easy decision to order another half pint and stay a bit longer. The Kirkstall Brewery Virtuous (£2.50) 4.5% ABV session IPA was pale and dry. 

Among the interesting items displayed on the walls of the Bridewell is a poster for the Cassius Clay v Henry Cooper bout at Wembley in 1963 framed together with a signed photo collage. This was the match that Our 'Enery would lose in the fifth round having knocked down Cassius Clay near the end of the fourth round.

Returning my glass to the bar and noticing that Ossett Brewery Silver King was available on cask resulted in an extended stay for another half pint (£1.85). This is a fruity American Pale Ale (4.3% ABV).

Congratulations to Fiona and Dominic Hornsby, who took over the lease in 2019, as The Bridewell was awarded Pub of the Year 2022 by Liverpool & Districts CAMRA. The Denbigh Castle is their second Liverpool pub and is featured, with the Lion Tavern, in a companion post - Liverpool (Moorfields) - June 2022.

Other pubs South of Liverpool Central

The Philharmonic Dining Rooms is famed for the marble surrounded urinals in the Gents toilets. The pub is now managed by Nicholson's. I enjoyed a pint of Timothy Taylor's Landlord (£4.85 pint) on my visit. 

It was quiet on a Monday evening but well worth having a look around the various rooms to appreciate the historic and ornate interior. Cheers to the person who suggested Brahms and Liszt for facing rooms! CAMRA's Pub Heritage database has more details and photos of the pub's historic features.

-----

The Grapes at 60 Roscoe Street, on the corner with Knight Street, is also in the Georgian Quarter and not to be confused with the Grapes, Mathew Street in the Cavern Quarter.  From a wide choice of cask ales, I chose Chapter Brewing (Sutton Weaver, Runcorn) Kandata. The 4.7% ABV pale ale was smooth and fruity (£3.70 pint). In contrast to the Philharmonic, the Grapes was busy on a Monday night, downstairs and in the sheltered patio, above a recent extension to the side of the pub, designed by Huge Architects. 

Open to the sky, there was only the sound of multiple conversations in this space surrounded by Buddhas and potted plants. The Grapes is a pub for the young and the young at heart!

-----

While the Lime Kiln may lack character, it makes up for this with value and convenience. The modern Wetherspoon pub is near lively Concert Square and overlooks Fleet Street. It is only a short walk from Bundobust on Bold Street and Kazimier Garden on Seel Street. I had no complaints about the beers at the Lime Kiln (eg Weetwood Ales Cheshire Cat, a 4% ABV blonde ale for £2.10 pint; Peerless Brewing Co Brit Hop, a dry 4.7% ABV golden ale - seen in photo) or the evening meals and the breakfast bacon butties with unlimited coffee (£1.20 extra). My only gripe here would be the lack of beer mats, leading to sticky table surfaces.

-----

My previous visit to Peter Kavanagh's was on a Sunday afternoon in January 2019 and resulted in some interior photos (including the one above) appearing in a post for Beer Europe. On Wednesday 8 June 2022, my only photo would be of the pub's exterior with groups gathered at outside tables (see map / photo collage above). Once inside, all the cask ale pump clips were turned round except for Abbot Ale which was the only one available on this occasion. I pledged to return another day and embarked on a walk down busy Parliament Street to reach Cains Brewery Village. My subsequent tweet about this lack of cask ale choice elicited a courteous reply from the pub: 'Only got our delivery in today so cask has to settle, sorry about that we like to make sure you get a good pint.'.

More photos of the historic interior of Peter Kavanagh's are featured in CAMRA's Pub Heritage database.

[NB Note that all beer prices quoted were from Tim's visit to Liverpool 6-9 June 2022.]