Leuven - 2026

KU Leuven library & beetle 'Totem'

Capital of the Belgian province of Flemish Brabant, Leuven is the home of KU (Katholieke Universiteit) Leuven. Frequent trains link the city with Brussels (25km), Antwerp (43km) and Liège (66km).

Our previous stay in Leuven, for three nights in March 2024, was covered by a Leuven - Spring 2024 blog post. Brasserie Gambrinus, De Blauwe Kater, Het Strand, MALZ, Metafoor and STUK were featured.

View west (left) and south (right) from 7th floor of Ibis Budget hotel

After three nights in Liège, we stayed at Ibis Budget, next to Leuven / Louvain station, for one night. On Friday January 16, we were able to revisit De Blauwe Kater, Het Strand, MALZ and Metafoor as well as visit a couple of other bars for the first time.

The rear entrance to HAL5, Kessel-Lo, is on Locomotievenstraat, a pedestrian street that follows the track of an old railway siding which used to serve a railway workshop. It was closed when we visited on Friday afternoon but has been noted for a visit in August. There's a bar and food outlets inside the hall including Habibi for falafel and Antico Pizza.

De Fiere Margriet

Past visitors to De Fiere Margriet at Margarethaplein 11, may have fond memories of the extensive beer range and distinctive decor. The bar was closed for a while but is now open under new management with a less interesting beer range and standard furniture. As early customers on Friday afternooon we were greeted warmly but finding that black tea was not available for Meg we made our excuses and left.

It's always a pleasure to see the historic buildings in the centre of Leuven including the 15th century Sint-Pieterskerk on the other side of the street and the former town hall beyond. Motor traffic is restricted but there are buses and cyclists to avoid. 

We passed Leuven Central at the corner of  Jodenstraat and the decorative shops of Mechelsestraat before reaching Vismarkt.

De Blauwe Kater

At the north west corner of Viskmarkt, De Blauwe Kater is an imposing and reliable bar with several spaces, traditional furniture decorated with brass instruments and festival posters where blues or jazz music is often playing. 

We found a table on the slightly raised stage area. Tim enjoyed Saison Dupont Bio from the extensive list of Belgian bottled beers. 

Hops 'n More

Nearby at Mechelsestraat 50, Hops 'n More were moving into their new, larger premises. 

Misery Beer Co Harzington was not in stock but a helpful staff member recommended La Meute from La Source Beer Co as an alternative hazy IPA. This was a beer I had enjoyed last year at the La Source taproom in Brussels after visiting the Atomium.

MALZ

A return visit to MALZ, on the other side of the river Dyle, was essential and arriving just after 4pm, we were able to choose a table near a side window with a good view of the bar.

The smartly bound menu has two pages dedicated to local beers and mentions 'We have the largest selection of locally produced beers in town.' These pages include Hof Ten Dormaal Tinto, Sunshine Pale Ale and Saison. 

Tim chose Bier Beek Saison as not previously tasted. Music playing included Summer in the City. It was nice to see real plants and not plastic greenery at MALZ. 

Later, out of curiosity Tim and Meg split a can of Dok Brewing Company Gangmaker a 4.5% ABV Double Uytzet (Historic beer style from Ghent). Hopped with Fuggles it is a pale amber colour.

By 5.15pm, many tables were filled and at least half of the younger drinkers were experimenting with a milky turquoise colour beer at €8.50 a glass. Brewed in Palmetto, Florida by Corporate Ladder Brewing Co, Rum BA Expecto Patronum 10% ABV 'Bright and radiant with coconut, blue raspberry and lemon juice, aged in rum barrels for an extra spark of magic' did sound interesting!

De Metafoor

Recrossing the river Dyle, it's a 300 metre walk to another favourite bar - De Metafoor at Parijsstraat 34. We were lucky to find a free standard height table near the bar as people were just leaving when we arrived at 5.30pm. 

The seats at the small corner bar are always taken. There are low stools for the table by the front window. The green plants fit in well on the window sill there. It was very lively inside with conversations and laughter.

Tim's beer choice here was Averbode Abbey Beer which is brewed by Brouwerij Huyghe. The wall by our table features a collection of classic Stella Artois advertisements including one based on a postcard featuring Leuven's historic centre. (Stella Artois is brewed at the AB InBev brewery on the edge of Leuven.).

Parijsstraat is one street away from the Oude Markt, famed for being lined with bars that are popular with the large student population.

We also followed a path through Atrechtcollege, shortly before the gates were closed at 7pm, on the way to our next bar.

De Reynaert

After a 1.3km walk we reached De Reynaert for a first visit. 

Caroline Debenham (@carolinedebenh1 on Bluesky) was an inspiration for this visit. In previous years Tim had thought it was too far away from the centre until Caroline went to find it closed on a Sunday in October 2025 and returned the next day for Taras Boulba and Hercule Stout.

There's a long bar opposite the entrance. The lighting is quite dim. The blackboard above the bar lists all the beers available with draught beers in the left column, and Trappist beers heading the second column. There are about 40 beers listed under the Blond heading including local beers, Saisons and Tripels. 

Tim's beers at De Reyneart were his favourites of the day - Juicy Crime of Passion by Brouwerij Mort Subite €4 and the well trusted Zeezuiper Tripel by Scheldebrouwerij €5.50. Coupled with the warm temperature, spacious surroundings and good music playing that included The Doors and Cortez the Killer by Neil Young, all the ingredients were there for this to become a new favourite bar in Leuven. We will surely visit again in August 2026 on the way to &/or from Germany by train via Brussels. 

Top tip - Leuven is a good place to stay near Brussels, especially when the SNCB train fare for those aged 65+ with a Train + subscription, as the fare is reduced to €2.50 off peak (€4,10 peak).

Het Strand

Located in a new development that includes a Zed cinema, it was nice to return to the vegan restaurant / bar Het Strand, Tiensestraat 138, for a meal with a friendly welcome. Tim chose draught Circus Session  IPA (4% ABV, €5) by Circus Brouwerij.

Leuven station looked rather special when illuminated at night as we walked past at 10.15pm.

Cafe In Den Ouden Tijd

It seemed early to return to the hotel so we had a final beer at In Den Ouden Tijd, Tiensevest 22, opposite the station. The cheap price for Stella Artois in white print stands out on a window and here was an opportunity to risk giving the bar a first try. 

Door to smokers' room                                                          Bar area

Most of the left side of the long room is a smokers' room separated by a glass wall like a giant fishtank. The bar is at the far end of the room and a glass door to the smokers room is only a couple of wooden tables distance away from the bar past games and pinball machines. It's dimly lit and there is a lot of wood panelling on the walls and bar front. The barman, with a Mohican hairstyle and Harley Davidson t-shirt, kept busy by customers of all ages, did a good job.

Tim enjoyed a 33cl glass of draught Stella Artois, brewed just over a kilometre away, for €2.50. 

Posting later on Bluesky about In den Ouden Tijd, it was nice that Jack Anderton, the founder of the European Beer Guide, replied to appreciate this research into a bar that he had passed by as we had also done on previously.

Saturday

Before our lunchtime train to Brussels to connect with an afternoon Eurostar train to London, we had time for coffee and iced cinnamon bun at Noir coffeebar and an interesting walk to the Groot Begijnhof / Grand Beguinage for a chance to 'step back in time' along the narrow cobbled streets.

 

Leuven - Saturday night

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The sun had already set over Leuven when we left the Ibis Budget hotel and crossed under the railway station to walk into the city centre on our last night (Saturday 24 March).

There was no room for us at Domus, a popular brewery restaurant where waiters skilfully ignored anyone not already seated at a table.

We headed to Oude Markt 37 where L-Cafe had been listed as a good place to find traditional Belgian food, run by two sisters - Liesbet and Lori. However, we were too late to eat as the kitchen closes at 20.45.

Belgenius - Citrus Strong Golden Ale

We were encouraged to stay for a beer and as beers from Belgenius were stocked we were easily won over. The small space downstairs was chilly so we decided to sit upstairs despite a warning about having to share the space with 'loud Dutch men'.

The pale wood furniture and lampshades give a Scandinavian feel to the upstairs room. Simon had the sensible idea of asking for a restaurant recommendation when we paid the bill for a bottle each (10 euros).

De Nachtuil, Krakenstraat 8, was only a minute's walk away and its Night Owl name reflects the late opening hours (until 2am Tue-Thu, 3am Fri-Sun).
We ordered mixed olives as a starter and main dishes which came with a separate large serving of Belgian frites to share.

We also ordered bottles of Cornet, as recommended on Friday night by Gunter. The Brouwerij De Hoorn tasting notes mention 'Cornet is an oaked, strong, blond Belgian beer (Alc. 8.5% Vol.). Its subtle touch of vanilla is achieved by adding oak chips during brewing. Brewed in honour of Salomon de Maldeghem, Knight in the 11th century.' I will look for Cornet again when in Belgium.

Metafoor

Having enjoyed a visit to Metafoor on Thursday night and finding it too busy on Friday night we decided to try and revisit this bar set back one street from Oude Markt at Parijsstraat 34.

Arthur's Legacy 13 - Aerts 2016 / Brouwerij de Hoorn

Simon found a spare seat at the bar and I stood next to him until another seat became free. The bar was very busy but the bartender was expertly serving customers as fast as they could present orders. We watched as he selected the correct glass, rinsed it, quickly filled it with beer from a bottle or tap, dunked the glass into a sink of cold water to rinse off any residues before serving. A craftsman at work and captivating to watch!

Another favourite Leuven bar to return to was De Blauwe Kater and on the way we passed an interesting looking comics shop - Het Besloten Land - just a few doors along from Metafoor.
We reached De Blauwe Kater around midnight and were glad to find a free table on the ground floor.

My first beer here was a Houblon Chouffe, the hoppy 9% ABV version of La Chouffe from Brasserie d'Achouffe (4.40 euro). This was a favourite beer on the trip and three bottles were purchased on Sunday from the essential Carrefour Express at Brussels Midi station before heading home.
The music volume was turned up and SoundHound was deployed to detect The Levee by Belgian band Blues Lee.

As previously observed, beer and music go well together especially the Blues! By the time I was drinking (green label) Gouden Carolus Hopsinjoor, brewed in Mechelen by Het Anker, the tunes were authentic blues from John Lee Hoooker - Mr Lucky. Indeed I was!
Tasting notes from the Het Anker website describe the 8% ABV Hopsinjoor as 'derived from “Opsinjoor”, the typical character of Mechelen and also because of the use of 5 different kinds of hops. These hops are fractioned at a different time during the cooking process in order to conserve a maximum of aroma.' This is another beer that I will seek out again, perhaps even at the brewery in Mechelen where the station conveniently lies on the railway line between Brussels and Antwerp.

After 1am, as Simon was slowly drinking a quadrupel beer and my check on buses revealed an imminent departure it was time for me to leave and save the walk back to the hotel - on a bus that cost another 1.60 euro clip on my Lijn Kaart. The female bus driver cheerfully coped with everyone who boarded.

Leuven - Saturday

After grey skies on Friday, it was nice to wake up on Saturday 24 March 2018 and see blue skies above Leuven railway and bus stations from my 6th floor room at the Ibis Budget hotel.
Our plan was to visit Hof ten Dormaal brewery in the afternoon, a bus ride away from Leuven.
Buses in Leuven, Mechelen and Antwerp are operated by De Lijn.

The first task for today was to buy a 10-ride Lijn Kaart (16 euro) from the ticket office at the bus station. After a walk into town, Simon and I enjoyed a bargain breakfast of coffee and croissant at EXKi, Rector De Somerplein 8, where the special offer is available until 11am.

We passed a market next to St Peter's church that included a stall with Belgian beer glasses for sale at reasonable prices.

With time to spare before the bus to the brewery we passed the Fishmarket square, which is now home to De Blauwe Kater, on the way to another bar with 'blue' in its name - De Blauwe Schuit.

The Blue Barge entrance passage houses part of a (red and white) barge and gives views to an inner courtyard which is home to a splendid peacock.

We entered the main bar, above street level, and found a table in the sunshine. Simon ordered a Hopus and I chose a Poperings Hommelbier which is brewed with hops from Poperinge.

The high-ceilinged bar is decorated with nautical and travel related items including an old map of the Belgian Congo. An unusual mixture of music (Ghostbusters, Don't lose my number (Phil Collins)) was playing a bit too loudly for a lunchtime.
We caught the delayed 284 bus (towards Mechelen) from the stop at nearby Dirk Boutslaan to Tildonk Brug, a journey of 25 minutes via Herent. We were able to validate the Lijn Kaart twice to cater for two passengers.

Google maps estimated the 1.8km level walk to Hof ten Dormaal brewery would take 23 minutes. We passed Kasteeltje van Tildonk dating from 1642. Only a few cars and cyclists would pass us on the narrow Kasteeldreef road.

Some barking and shouting preceded our arrival at Brouwerij Hof ten Dormaal when the farm's dog took an interest in a dog being exercised by passing cyclists. We were admitted to the farm at Caubergstraat 2 and then into the tasting room on the left of the gates.

It was just after the 2pm opening time and we were the first customers to arrive. The wood-buring stove was warming the large room with traditional furniture.

Having established that we were planning to sample several beers it was agreed that we would each use tasting glasses (for the forthcoming Leuven Innovation Beer Festival) and share bottles.

We started with the 7.5% ABV Saison. It has low bitterness (20 IBU) 'lightly sour, brewed only with grain and hops, made right here'.

Witgoud, an 8% ABV beer (25 IBU) is brewed with chicory 'Belgian Endive, and dates back generations to a time when the Flemish region of Belgium prospered from its growth'. We were told that after some time in the oven, slices of chicory are added to the brew. Witgoud is the brewery's best selling beer in Belgium.  

André Janssens sat with us for a while to talk about the brewery and the Leuven Innovation Beer Festival. I gave André a copy of Ullage, the West Berkshire CAMRA magazine to read. The spring issue had a front page story about Tutts Clump Cider.

From the 'Zure van Tildonk' (Sour from Tildonk) range we tried Stekelbees (6% ABV), made with locally picked gooseberries.

André kindly suggested a tour of the farm and brewery given by himself and Jef, his son and brewer. 

A hop garden is part of the farm and an old chain-driven machine is used to separate the hops from the bines. André mentioned an innovation they are looking into is to grow hops with artifical lighting to provide green hops outside the traditional season.

Spent grain from the brewing process is used as feed for the cows on the farm. Swiss cows were chosen as less time and effort is needed at calving time.

Viewed from an elevated platform, the main brewing vessels include a Mash Tun, Lauter Tun, Kettle and Whirlpool (on the right). Although having copper exteriors, the Mash Tun (left) and Kettle both have stainless steel interiors for ease of cleaning.

So far, so relatively familiar, but then Jef showed us an oak Foeder that would usually be filled.

Jef opened it up so that the heating element could be seen inside. A variety of wooden barrels for ageing beer were stored in the open floor above the Foeders.

We chatted with Jef after the tour on the walk back to the Tasting Room and Simon discovered that English football is one of his interests. Jef later revealed that he is interested in tanks and ships and has enjoyed a visit to Bovington Tank Museum.

Jef sat with us and kindly offered to share his bottle of Dad's Tea with me. This new beer in the range is a 6.5% ABV Saison brewed with Jasmine Tea in a bag introduced to the wort at the end of the boil. This was my favourite beer of the visit and before leaving I would buy two bottles to take home.
When asked about the relative merits of Mechelen and Leuven, Jef replied that he only has time for Leuven. He is fond of the city and recommended De Fiere Margriet in Leuven as the best bar.

The beer that Simon was keen to try was Frambuesa y Chocolate, a 7% ABV beer made with raspberries that was quite sour and fruity.

By now it was 5.30pm and this would be our last beer although there were still plenty more from the brewery that we did not have time to taste! There had been a steady turnover of customers during the afternoon including cyclists enjoying the better weather but Simon and I may be among the few beer enthusiasts able to claim they spent the whole afternoon in the Hof ten Dormaal Tasting Room and Brewery!

By the time we left at 6pm the low sun provided a nice light on the pond across the road from the farm. We set off to retrace our steps to Tildonk Bridge. The Janssens family had really looked us after on this visit but the icing on the cake was when a car stopped in front of us and driver André indicated for us to get inside. 

André handed me a bottle of Hof ten Dormaal cider he had mentioned earlier as originally aimed at the USA market. Once on our way Andre spotted the Leuven bus approaching at a junction. He drove us just past the bus stop, trapping the bus so that we could board immediately! The bus took us to Leuven station, giving us a chance for a break, at our nearby hotel, before setting out again for our last evening in Leuven.