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The sun had already set over Leuven when we left the Ibis Budget hotel and crossed under the railway station to walk into the city centre on our last night (Saturday 24 March).
There was no room for us at
Domus, a popular brewery restaurant where waiters skilfully ignored anyone not already seated at a table.
We headed to Oude Markt 37 where
L-Cafe had been listed as a good place to find traditional Belgian food, run by two sisters - Liesbet and Lori. However, we were too late to eat as the kitchen closes at 20.45.
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| Belgenius - Citrus Strong Golden Ale |
We were encouraged to stay for a beer and as beers from
Belgenius were stocked we were easily won over. The small space downstairs was chilly so we decided to sit upstairs despite a warning about having to share the space with 'loud Dutch men'.
The pale wood furniture and lampshades give a Scandinavian feel to the upstairs room. Simon had the sensible idea of asking for a restaurant recommendation when we paid the bill for a bottle each (10 euros).
De Nachtuil, Krakenstraat 8, was only a minute's walk away and its Night Owl name reflects the late opening hours (until 2am Tue-Thu, 3am Fri-Sun).
We ordered mixed olives as a starter and main dishes which came with a separate large serving of Belgian frites to share.
We also ordered bottles of
Cornet, as recommended on Friday night by Gunter. The Brouwerij De Hoorn tasting notes mention '
Cornet is an oaked, strong, blond Belgian beer (Alc. 8.5% Vol.). Its subtle
touch of vanilla is achieved by adding oak chips during brewing. Brewed
in honour of Salomon de Maldeghem, Knight in the 11th century.' I will look for Cornet again when in Belgium.
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| Metafoor |
Having enjoyed a visit to
Metafoor on Thursday night and finding it too busy on Friday night we decided to try and revisit this bar set back one street from Oude Markt at Parijsstraat 34.
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| Arthur's Legacy 13 - Aerts 2016 / Brouwerij de Hoorn |
Simon found a spare seat at the bar and I stood next to him until another seat became free. The bar was very busy but the bartender was expertly serving customers as fast as they could present orders. We watched as he selected the correct glass, rinsed it, quickly filled it with beer from a bottle or tap, dunked the glass into a sink of cold water to rinse off any residues before serving. A craftsman at work and captivating to watch!
Another favourite Leuven bar to return to was De Blauwe Kater and on the way we passed an interesting looking comics shop -
Het Besloten Land - just a few doors along from Metafoor.
We reached De Blauwe Kater around midnight and were glad to find a free table on the ground floor.
My first beer here was a
Houblon Chouffe, the hoppy 9% ABV version of La Chouffe from Brasserie d'Achouffe (4.40 euro). This was a favourite beer on the trip and three bottles were purchased on Sunday from the essential Carrefour Express at Brussels Midi station before heading home.
The music volume was turned up and SoundHound was deployed to detect
The Levee by Belgian band
Blues Lee.
As previously observed, beer and music go well together especially the Blues! By the time I was drinking (green label)
Gouden Carolus Hopsinjoor, brewed in Mechelen by Het Anker, the tunes were authentic blues from
John Lee Hoooker -
Mr Lucky. Indeed I was!
Tasting notes from the
Het Anker website describe the 8% ABV Hopsinjoor as '
derived from “Opsinjoor”, the typical character of Mechelen and also because of the use of 5 different kinds of hops. These hops are fractioned at a different time during the cooking process in order to conserve a maximum of aroma.' This is another beer that I will seek out again, perhaps even at the brewery in Mechelen where the station conveniently lies on the railway line between Brussels and Antwerp.
After 1am, as Simon was slowly drinking a quadrupel beer and my check on buses revealed an imminent departure it was time for me to leave and save the walk back to the hotel - on a bus that cost another 1.60 euro clip on my Lijn Kaart. The female bus driver cheerfully coped with everyone who boarded.
