Portishead pubs - July 2021

 

Many people have heard of Portishead, perhaps from M5 motorway signs or from the eponymous trip hop band who released Dummy in 1994.

However, apart from Bristolians and sailing / boating types, not many people have visited the town on the Severn Estuary just west of Avonmouth, where the river Avon reaches the sea.

Thursday 1 July 2021

We arrived in Portishead after a mainly rural ride on the top deck of a bus from Bristol, passing Ashton Court with a slow ascent of Rownham Hill and later crossing the M5. After a walk from the bus stop we reached the Lake Grounds and then the Esplanade giving views of Portishead Point lighthouse and the yellow-painted walls of the Open Air Pool.

The Royal Inn

Instead of following Woodlands Road we opted for a walk on the quiet footpath through the woods which also leads to the impressive Royal Inn. A one way system was operating and after entering through the main door and signing in we were shown to a table in the spacious garden at the edge of the woods.

I ordered Butcombe Original from a choice of two cask ales where Doom Bar was the alternative. It's always nice to see a beer served in the correct glass but on this occasion my glass may either have been old or not entirely clean inside, judging by the line of air bubbles seen near the top.

However, the 4% abv beer looked and tasted good. Living in Bristol, Boak & Bailey recently eulogised over a pint of Butcombe in a blog post Pubs and beer all spick and span 'Leafy hop character, cracker-crust malt, a hint of rustic mystery from the yeast… A great way to break the cask fast'. This post was illustrated with a more recent version of the Butcombe glass etched with 'Truth in every taste'. With table service and its wonderful setting overlooking the Severn Estuary, £4.40 pint seemed reasonable for a pint at the Royal Inn which caters mainly for diners.

Portishead Marina

Heading down Pier Steps towards Portishead Lifeboat Station, there was an opportunity to get a photo of Portishead Pier and the dockside cranes of Royal Portbury Docks beyond.

A large lock separates Portishead Marina from the Severn Estuary and it was filling with water as a number of expensive-looking cruisers were raised to the level of the Marina.

At the north end of the Marina, there are several shop units housing Mokoko Coffee & Bakery, a Co-Op and a community pub - The Siren's Calling.

There were tables and chairs outside the Siren's Calling but unfortunately it was closed due to limited opening hours and we would be heading back to Bristol at 4pm, the Thursday opening time. There are usually four local cask ales, eight keg beers and lagers and nine bag in box ciders available at the bar.

Half way along the Marina lies Hall and Woodhouse, Portishead (built 2012). The bar / restaurant was designed by architects Mackenzie Wheeler and was awarded CAMRA Newbuild Pub of the Year 2013. 'Designed to be highly sustainable, the building comprises a two-storey, fully glazed, concrete-framed structure, flanked with 28 recycled shipping containers that accommodate the private dining and meeting rooms, toilets, staff accommodation and Marina facilities'. 

There is also a Wetherspoon pub next to Lidl, near the southern end of the Marina. The Posset Cup had seating outdoors on two sides but on our visit this area formed a wind tunnel and so we passed by and instead caught a bus back to Bristol. 

Although we did not make the most of opportunities to visit the pubs in Portishead, it was fascinating to learn about the history of the area from information provided by Gordano Civic Society on a board by the Marina. The Marina, now surrounded by modern housing, was once a dock handling timber and supplies for the Albright & Wilson phosphorus plant powered by cheap electricity from a local power station.

Bristol pubs - June 2021

 

With two nights in Bristol at the end of June 2021, there was a chance to visit some pubs near the Travelodge 'Bristol Central' in Mitchell Lane. 

The Cornubia

Good Chemistry 'Common Thread'

Where better to spend a Wednesday lunchtime than the pleasant garden space of  The Cornubia?!

The historic pub (c. 1775) prides itself on being hard to find but the effort is worthwhile! Many nearby buildings were bombed in WWII so it is surrounded by more recent neighbours. Lunchtime was not the quietest time to visit as a new steel-framed building was being erected just across Temple Street.

A blackboard near the entrance lists details of the cask beers available. With efficient table service and advice on the beers available I plumped for a pint of Common Thread from Good Chemistry brewed in the city. This was welcome refreshment after a walk from Bristol Temple Meads station via the Harbourside pedestrian route. 

The laminated notices on each table show the menu and an introduction to the protocols of the pub 'not a beerstro' that showcases 'the very best of only cask ale' and are signed by Phil and Jacki - Landlord and Landlady. They obviously know how to run a pub and were previously at the Crown and Thistle in Gravesend, CAMRA's 2003 National Pub of the Year.

Despite the noise from the building site, it seemed sensible to stay and sample a different cask ale before checking in to the hotel after 3pm. The Twisted Oak 'Cornubia SO' is the house session ale. We had spotted the Twisted Oak dray outside before arriving. The brewery, based in Wrington (North Somerset), used to supply 'Not So' to the pub as well but this has now been discontinued. 

There may be an artificial grass carpet in the Cornubia's patio garden but the flowers and shrubs are all delightfully real! We would return to this pub the following evening to sample further cask ale and cider.

A while later, revived by tea and biscuits, we would set off from the hotel to visit M Shed and see the Edward Colston statue, now retrieved from the harbour and displayed in a recumbent position after being famously dumped there in June 2020. 

Among the other exhibits at this part of Bristol Museums was a dray for George's Brewery and a model of the Llandoger Trow.

The Arnolfini Harbourside Bar, managed by Bristol Beer Factory, was temporarily closed, but provided a good spot to take a photo of M Shed, fronted by four dockside cranes, on the other side of the harbour.

LHG Brewpub

The evening would be spent at the Left Handed Giant Brewpub at Finzels Reach. There was a socially distanced queue on the curving Castle Bridge when we arrived. We hadn't expected a queue on a Wednesday but some people may have been going out to relax a day after the drama of watching the England v Germany Euro 2020 match on TV when apparently the brewpub had few customers.

A (2/3) pint always tastes better after anticipation and a further delay was necessary to navigate the brewpub's website in order to make and pay for our order. I enjoyed the Nelson Sauvin and Mosaic Pale and later 2/3 pint of Sky Above to go with my tasty vegetarian Mission Pizza.

We were glad to have a table in the exposed harbourside seating area and there was an amazing sunset 'lightshow'. Perhaps the huge opening in the wall of the building towards Castle Park on the other side of the harbour explains why one of the beers is named Sky Above!

Before leaving there was a chance to get a photo of the brewing vessels and beer tanks which are situated behind the bar.

The LHG Brewpub looks good at night viewed from Castle Gardens which are easily accessible via Castle Bridge.

Thursday 1 July, 2021

Returning to Bristol after a visit to Portishead, it was nice to find that a part of King Street has been pedestrianised. As well as the Bristol Old Vic theatre, there are several good pubs on King Street including Small Bar and the Beer Emporium. 

Llandoger Trow

At the east end of the street, opposite the Old Duke and the King Street Brew House, we spotted an empty table outside the Llandoger Trow and checked that we could sit there. The Old Duke had tables on the opposite pavement and in the road with music playing but only pavement space was left for the Llandoger Trow.

It was a relief to be able to order beers without the need to navigate an app. Under new management that also operates the Euston Tap, the Llandoger Trow has a focus on craft beer and continental lager but some cask ales are available and we ordered pints of QPA from Quantock Brewery. 

Other cask ales suggested were from further afield - Timothy Taylor Landlord and Adnams Brewery Ghost Ship. The extra pale colour and citrus tang of QPA reduced the disappointment of the beer being served in a lager glass. Perhaps the glass choice was limited due to the recent reopening or being busy in the evening sunshine. 

Bridge Inn

There was time to stop off at the hotel to brew some tea before venturing out again to find there was a free table outside at the Bridge Inn in a quieter part of the city. 

The landlord made us welcome and a new recruit took our order.  We chose a local cask ale - Hardings Pale Ale by Bason Bridge Brewing Co. 

This was a smooth and fruity pale ale and good value at £3.50 pint.

A pleasant walk along the north bank of the harbour via Castle Gardens and then past BrewDog led us to FiSH restaurant, located on a barge near Bristol bridge. We enjoyed takeaway fish and chips from there at a table by the harbour. We even managed to avoid losing any of our meal to seagulls who frequent the area. 

The Cornubia (2nd visit)

A return to the Cornubia would be our last pub visit of the trip. This time the noise was from a youthful group at the pub but we were able to sit at the furthest table away. A new cask ale had been added to the list and the Lenton Lane Brewery (Nottingham) Simcoe SM&SH (Single malt and single hop) was tasting fresh. 

As usual the service was excellent and assistance with choosing a cider nightcap was appreciated. Reader, the local Brislington Brain Twister dry cider is recommended!

Friday 2 July - Postscript

With checkout at noon, there was time for a walk to Spike Island and back. 

We passed the Ostrich, a Butcombe pub, that we had previously ruled out for a visit as it did not appear to serve any cask ale. However, it does offer plentiful outside seating with harbour views.

The massive almond croissants from Mokoko Coffee & Bakery at Wapping Wharf are recommended for anyone with a sweet tooth and make a good breakfast.

A harbourside walk passes near the SS Great Britain (Brunel's ocean liner) and the Orchard Inn, a freehouse with a good reputation for traditional cider, can be found nearby. To drink at the Orchard Inn is just one more reason to revisit Bristol!

Bristol - Gloucester Road and Stokes Croft

Thanks to Steve Kelly for organising a trail of Bristol pubs along the A38 on Friday 8 March 2019 for Simon, Mike and me. We had Plusbus tickets for economical bus travel for the day.

Simon, Steve and Mike

The Inn on the Green

From Bristol Parkway we caught a 73 bus towards Filton and walked from the Toronto Road stop to the Inn on the Green at 2 Filton Road.

This large pub had 13 handpumps and the Bristol Beer Factory Low Rider was a good half pint to start with.

There was a real fire and the low table with polished pennies was a further example of pennies used as a decorative feature in the pub.

A custom made Pubs of Gloucester Road wall display with objects in boxes to represent the pubs and copper pipework to show the sequence gave us a preview of our route.

 

The Wellington

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We squeezed into a bus to take us to The Wellington, Gloucester Road, just south of Horfield Common. St Austell Tribute, Bath Ales Gem and Prophecy were the three beers available.

My Bath Ales Prophecy 3.8% ABV New World Pale Ale was rather hazier than it should have been.

There is a large dining area behind the bar as well as the spacious front bar area where we sat.

There are some locally relevant graphic prints for decoration.

The Drapers Arms

On the next bus south we spotted the Drapers Arms but as it was closed in the early afternoon we were unable to visit. Thanks to Boak & Bailey for tweeting occasional photos from inside the micropub they frequent which is obviously worthy of inclusion on any evening trail.

The Annexe

We passed the Sportsman on the way to the Annexe which is just beyond.

The Annexe offers a CAMRA discount on pints of ale.

There are eight cask ales from handpumps which are situated on a back counter.

Here I chose a half pint of Hanlon's Citra IPA, one of the two guest ales.

The Golden Lion

After retracing our steps to the bus stop on the Gloucester Road, we were opposite the Golden Lion, an externally decorated pub with regular live music.

The Gloucester Road Ale House & Kitchen

The next bus took us to The Gloucester Road Ale House & Kitchen.

The £3.20 per pint price for ales is reasonable but on this occasion my half of Dawkins Bristol Blonde turned out to be a disappointment.

The interior of the Ale House is smart and contemporary.

An upstairs room provides extra space in a similar style and there are some historic framed drinks-related illustrations on the walls.

The Urban Standard

A short walk south led to the Urban Standard at 35 Gloucester Road.

As there was no cask ale here I opted for coffee while the others had a beer with their meal.
Sadly, the Urban Standard would subsequently close down at the end of April, 2019.

The Gallimaufry

We crossed the Gloucester Road to reach the Gallimaufry (meaning a confused jumble or medley of things) which was not on Steve's itinerary but looked appealing.

At the bar my half pint of Bristol Beer Factory Beam Me Up was pale and deliciously hopped with Melba and Ella hops (£2.20).  Beers from Dark Star and Stroud Brewery were also available on handpump.

This is a bar with regular live music and quirky decor.

It is also spacious with a back room and an upstairs room.

The Cat and Wheel

We walked south along Gloucester Road which turns into Cheltenham Road and under the railway bridge which connects Montpelier and Redland stations.

The Cat and Wheel is the building painted blue just beyond the bridge. It also hosts live music at weekends and was on Steve's itinerary but we were now running late so did not go inside.

The Canteen

The Mild Mild West, a Banksy mural is just outside The Canteen at 80 Stokes Croft.

Inside, the range of cask ales included Moutere another excellent Bristol Beer Factory Beer. Hopped with Monterey, Rakau and Enigma a half pint cost £2 here.

The Canteen is an informal place with plenty of large shared tables. It is another live music venue with free events. The menu includes imaginative vegetarian options. Free publications with details of Bristol events can be found here.

The Hillgrove Porter Stores

It is a steep uphill walk between blocks of flats to reach the Hillgrove Porter Stores by the most direct route. 

The Dawkins pub at 53 Hillgrove Street North is also set on a steep gradient.

Inside, cask ales are listed on the blackboard. The Japanese lanterns are a reminder that Japanese food from the Kansai kitchen is available here.

We liked this pub and stayed for two beers.

My first was the favourite - Tapstone Brewing Co Sea Monster although the Moor Beer Co Espana Hop was also good.

 

The Hare on the Hill

It was only a short walk down Dove Street to reach The Hare on the Hill. The house decorated with cows and farm animals up the hill at 43 Thomas Street North has a blue plaque showing it as The Cow Byre referring to its historic origins. The mural was designed by Sophie Long.

A small Banksy mural 'Rose on a mousetrap' can be viewed across the street and a little way up the hill from the Cow Byre.

There are five cask ales at the Hare on the Hill. It's possible that I drank water here as there is no entry against the pub on untappd and the photographic evidence appears to supports this!

There is a blue theme in this pub which works well. Some good music was playing here including Junk Bond Trader by Elliott Smith.

The tasteful decor includes mirrors and toy cars.

The Crofters Rights

It was all downhill from here as we headed to The Crofters Rights at 117-119 Stokes Croft!

The light was fading as we ventured inside.

A tap wall offered a wide range of keg beers. The central taps include one for still cider (Ashridge) and three for cask ales including Boca from Bristol Beer Factory.

From the poster, it looks like there are gigs / events or clubnights every night of the week at the Crofters Rights.

At the side of the pub there is a counter for Ray's pizza and this was a good opportunity to order a meal.

The Crofters Rights has dim lighting and some unusual artwork on the walls.

 

Croft Ales

Our final visit in the area was to Croft Ales brewery and taproom at 32 Upper York Street. The taproom is open on Fridays from 4pm-9pm and on Saturdays from 3pm-8pm.

It was busy when we arrived so after ordering our beers we visited the brewery space at the back.

The beer I enjoyed here was BS2, a 4% Session IPA showcasing hops from around the world blended with English and German-style malts.

With a train to catch at 20.30 from Bristol Temple Meads we left the taproom at 19.45 to catch a bus to the station, after avoiding the youths on pushbikes hanging around the area.

Thanks again to Steve for keeping us on time and to Simon and Mike for company on this trip.