20 April 2019

Porto - Thursday 28 February 2019

A full day in Porto / Oporto would include tasting Calem port in Vila Nova de Gaia and end with a free concert by Still Life in the Casa da Musica cafe.
A return to O Fumeiro (Marques), uphill from Hotel Grande Rio, for coffee and croissant was a good start to the day. To go anywhere in Porto usually involves going up or downhill and this may partly explain why there are relatively few cyclists.
On the way downhill, towards the river Douro, I stopped to take a photo of the (closed) tiny Bar Santa Cachaça which I had passed on my first night in the city and not dared to enter!
Another photo stop was for a row of buildings at Praça de Almeida Garrett, opposite São Bento station.
Pelourinho (ornamental pillory) and cathedral beyond
Just down and up from here is the Sé do Porto (cathedral) in an elevanted position where you can enjoy views of the city and the river Douro.
CAL,
I passed CAL, a (closed) bar with bottles of port and beer in the window and a 'craft beer on tap' sign on the northern approach to the high level of Ponte de Dom Luís I metal arch bridge, designed by Gustave Eiffel.
Crossing the bridge, which is also used by the Metro, there are good views including the river far below. Looking back to Porto you can see the ancient stone walls, a funicular railway and the steps that I would later climb from river level.
On the Vila Nova da Gaia (southern) side are the various port wine lodges including Calem which I would visit later.
Having reached the south bank there are good views of the bridge showing also the lower level which is used by vehicles and pedestrians.
It is a steep descent to river level and after lunch at a cafe I joined an English language tour of Calem port lodge. John (João?), our professional guide, finished the interesting tour by presenting us with a selection of ports for a tutored tasting. This tour is recommended and the standard tasting (13 euros) includes Cálem Fine White and Cálem Special Reserve Tawny. Our group of five, which included an American / Australian couple, would stay on for some time here learning about each other's trips and origins with IT backgrounds being a common thread for three of us.
Emerging into the daylight the riverside views include the traditional Rabelo boats once used for transporting port down the river Douro. 
I crossed back to Porto on the narrow pavement of the lower level of the Ponte de Dom Luís I.
A long climb up the steps of the Escada Dos Guindais was made easier by the central handrail to pull on. 
A stop for coffee on the shaded first floor terrace of the bar of Guindalense Futebol Clube provided a welcome break. I hear this is a lively place to enjoy beer and music in the evening but did not have a chance to return.
After reaching the top of the steps you arrive at the Batalha end of the funicular and a little further on is Praça da Batalha with a view of the church of Saint Ildefonso at the northern end of the square. Rather stupidly I forgot to visit Cervejaria Levare at which had been closed when I walked past here on Wednesday.

However, I did walk another five minutes to reach Cerveja Nortada at





































2 comments:

  1. Thanks for visiting Porto and the Fábrica da Picaria brewpub. We have a new menu now with typical Porto snacks to go along with our craftbeers. Please check https://afabricadapicaria.pt

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    1. Thanks for your comment. I have updated the blog post with a link to the menu in English. The Bifanas no Pão / hot pork sandwiches are delicious! https://www.afabricadapicaria.pt/en/menu-to-eat-with-craftbeer

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