Liberec, Czech Republic - Beer, trams and museums

Svijany Prémiový ležák 450 at Radniční sklípek,
3 tram at Galerie Lázně / Museum of Fine Arts

Liberec is the fifth largest city in the Czech Republic, situated about 110 km north west of Prague. Until 1945 it was named Reichenberg. It was once known as the 'Manchester of Bohemia' due to its thriving textile industry. 

Situated to the west, the mountain-top Hotel Ještěd and television transmitter above is visible from many parts of the city. On Sunday 15 March 2026, from the Horní Hanychov terminus (3) tram stop (the highest in the Czech Republic), the Ještěd ski slope was visible but sadly the top of the mountain was obscured by cloud.

Staying for two nights at Hotel Liberec, near Šaldovo Náměstí (3) tram stop and Dinopark Plaza, made travel around the city convenient. 

Tram 3 also stops at Liberec railway station and Fügnerova for transfers and at Muzeum-Galerie Lázně for main museums.

Note that passengers aged 65+ can travel at half price and for those 70+ travel is free on Liberec trams and buses.

Radniční sklípek

The European Bar Guide reviewed Radniční sklípek positively in 2023 and it is included in the Guide's Top 50 pubs and bars in Czechia 2025.

The Town Hall Cellar Restaurant is only about 200 metres from Hotel Liberec so this was the obvious place to visit for our first beer in Liberec after checking in on Friday 13 March 2026. It was the first branded restaurant of Pivovar Svijany, opening in December 2014 and now managed by Libe-rest s.r.o..

Town Hall (Radniční), Main square looking east, Neptune fountain looking south.

The cellar restaurant is entered from the east side of the impressive neo-Renaissance Town Hall that faces the main square in Liberec with the Neptune fountain.

Stone steps lead down, past a Pivovar Svijany neon sign over a carved barrel end to the large room with a high vaulted ceiling, columns and well spaced tables.

The bar with tanks over is at one side of the room and there are stained glass windows above wood panelling on the other side.

After a beer on this visit we would return on Saturday evening for an evening meal and on both occasions we received prompt and friendly service from the waitresses.

Fried pork schnitzel, butter mashed potatoes, pickle - 259 Kc

The availability of an English menu made choosing beer and food an easy process.

The Svijany brewery is about 30km south of Liberec and we would find their beers again elswehre on this weekend visit.

The Svijany beers we enjoyed in the Liberec town hall cellar restaurant were: Prémiový ležák 450 (originally brewed to celebrate 450 years since the brewery was founded in Svijany), Šlik (originally brewed on the 400th anniversary of the death of Jáchym Ondřej Šlik, one of the earliest owners of the brewery) and cold-hopped Rytíř (above).

Hospoda Na Růžku

The poster with a giant glass of Svijany beer advertising Hospoda Na Růžku on the side of the premises wall was visible down the slope from our room at Hotel Liberec. It was less than 200 metres from our hotel so after returning from a visit to Zámecký Pivovar Frýdlant 'Albrecht' in Frýdlant v Čechách on Friday evening we decided to spend the rest of the evening at Hospoda Na Růžku.

The entrance is on the corner of the building with the bar on the right and additional seating on the left of the L-shaped interior.

The Hospoda (beer house / pub / tavern) wasn't busy when we arrived soon after 8pm and we chose a table underneath a wall of classic typewriters and a brick ceiling.

In the same theme, the menu and beer list on a clipboard are in a typewriter font. At this Pivovar Svijany establishment, there was a dark beer on draught - Svijanská Kněžna 13 (5.2% ABV, 33 IBU).

The beer was served in a Hospoda Na Růžku branded glass with an image that matches the brawling scene on the paper table mat.

It was time for a meal with Czech dumplings - in this case Carlsbad dumplings with pork cheeks, Chanterelle mushroom sauce and dill (329 Kc), a good dish to go with a dark beer. With an English menu available and friendly service Hospoda Na Růžku was a relaxed place to enjoy Czech food and beer.

 Tram to Jablonec nad Nisou

Turning circle fot tram 11 at Jablonec nad Nisou terminus

Tram 11 from Liberec station and Fügnerova interchange to Jablonec nad Nisou follows the Lusatian Neisse river south east to Jablonec nad Nisou. This interurban tramway branch is about 13 km long.

Jablonec nad Nisou New Town Hall (Karl Winter, 1930-33)

There were some interesting buildings to admire including town hall.

Early on Saturday afternoon, Jablonec nad Nisou appeared quiet and it was only after a long walk through the town that we were able to find a bar that was open, between the town's railway station and the tram terminus.

Restaurace U Nádraží

The interior of U Nádraží was only slightly more interesting than the exterior!

The Branik Světlý (brewed by Staropramen) was only 38 Kc for 0.5 litre and was welcome refreshment at last.

 

There is a more direct route but we walked through a high rise housing estate and some parkland to reach the tram stop for the next leg of this tram-based tour.

There are new shelters at tram stops on this line and every one has a different poster with an image of a tram on the route and text about the contribution of the EU to the recent reconstruction of the line aided by European Structural and Investment Funds.

Pivovarská hospoda Konrad

Alighting at Pivovarská tram stop in Vratislavice nad Nisou, we passed a massive concrete silo on the walking route to Pivovarská hospoda Konrad in the direction of the Pivovar Konrad chimney.

There were cyclists on a break at the outside tables.

It was quiet inside at 3.30pm. The interior features a brewery display cabinet, good quality wooden furniture with seat pads for comfort and a log burner was blazing for warmth.

The cabinet display, opposite the bar, includes the range of Konrad canned beers.

Tim enjoyed the full-flavoured Konrad Kapucín 11° Tmavé dark lager. Subsequent research shows there are good views and hiking trails to be found by following the Nad Skalou road up the hill from a junction just past Pivovarská hospoda Konrad.

Club bar Opera

Friday pm - Club bar Opera - Saturday eve

Back in Liberec via tram 11, tram 3 and bus 12 we visited Club bar Opera tucked away at Studničná 225, passed by chance, but only photographed, the day before.

The posters in the entrance hallway indicated that it was the night that The Duchod were playing at the club from 7.30pm.

Approaching the bar at 6.30pm we were advised that the club was fully booked for the night, but after our disappointed looks there was a consultation and a decision that it would be OK for us to have one beer at the bar before leaving.

This was a relief and we drank our beers at a quicker rate than usual while taking a look at the inside of the bar which has a lot of character. Tim enjoyed Bernard Speciální Ležák 12 lager (47 Kc, glass on left in bar photo).

The band had started to set up but there was time for another beer as musicians, instruments and equipment arrived. Svijanský Máz 11 (42 Kc) was Tim's favourite today. The most expensive draught beer available here was Pilsner Urquell, 58 Kc, about £2. This bar is recommended but note that it's likely to be fully reserved on a Saturday night when a band is playing. 

Bar Šaldovka at Hotel Liberec

The lobby bar Šaldovka at Hotel Liberec was still serving beers when we returned there at 9.45pm on Saturday.

Chunky branded glasses of Pilsner Urquell were enjoyable and inexpensive for a hotel bar at 69 Kc for 0.5 litre.

Other Liberec bars 

With only two days in Liberec, there was not time to visit all the bars we passed  but it was possible to get some photos. These three bars are marked in orange on the second map above.

Hospoda Na Starém Městě at Frýdlantská 187/10 is above a clothes shop and downhill from the Town Hall

Stereo Cafe at Na Poříčí 112/13 looks like a bar for a young clientele.

Pivovarský dvůr  at Papírová 123/12 is a Staropramen bar that looked open but it was closing up at 9.15pm on a Saturday night.

There was time to get a photo of the interior with a barrel vaulted brick ceiling.

Liberec Museums

Three museums including MUZA the North Bohemian Museum (above) are near the Muzeum-Galerie Lázně tram stop (route 3).

Galerie Lázně (above) is housed in an impressive building originally built as a spa.

There was a small exhibition about a recently published book 'Labyrintem lázní' by Patrik Antczak. There was also a permanent Czech art exhibition and a temporary exhibition of glassware. On Sunday morning, the coffee bar Nordbeans Lázně at ground floor level was very popular.

The Technical Museum appears to be run with limited resources. A visit can be recommded for anyone interested in vehicles.

Vintage trams, cars and motorcycles are on display with most descriptions available in English.

There's an interesting display about the two types of cable car that used to operate between Hotel Ještěd and Horní Hanychov.

Northern Czech Republic breweries by train

It's possible to visit many breweries in the Czech Republic without driving. This post covers March 2026 visits by train to Pivovar Falkenštejn in Krásná Lípa, Zámecký Pivovar Frýdlant 'Albrecht' in Frýdlant v Čechách and Pivovar Kotouč in Česká Kamenice. All three breweries are in locations near the German border and from 1938-1945 were in Sudetenland, the border region of Czechoslovakia, annexed by Nazi Germany.

Map derived from https://viaduct.world/ of the north of the Czech Republic with train trips to brewerries highlighted.

On Thursday 12 March we arrived in Děčín on the European Sleeper train from Brussels to Prague having boarded at Antwerp the previous evening.

After coffee in the station restaurant we boarded a 10.45 train to Rumburk, retracing part of the route along the banks of the river Elbe to Bad Schandau and then branching off for a scenic ride on the single track railway line through Saxon Switzerland (Sächsische Schweiz).

10 minutes after arrival in Rumburk we caught the 12.38 train, arriving at Krásná Lípa at 12.43.

Pivovar Falkenštejn

Pivovar Falkenštejn occupies the two buildings on the left

From here it was a downhill walk to Pivovar Falkenštejn where we would enjoy an evening meal in the brewery restaurant before a night at the brewery guesthouse upstairs.

After checking in and a complimentary first beer (Světák) we took a walk along footpaths and minor roads to gain views of Bohemian Switzerland (Ceske Svycarsko) to the west.

With a menu prepared by chef René Vokurka, the restaurant is popular and our first beer (Letni Virgin Gose ( 0.3cl 54 Kc) was served at the end of the bar before our reserved table became available.

Tim's Desperát APA (4.8% ABV, 64 Kc / 50cl) proved a good accompaniment to onion soup followed by a chicken dish with roast vegetables.

Named after the town's historic philanthropist, Dittrich (5.5% ABV, 64Kc / 50 cl) was an excellent alternative to coffee after the meal.

The modern brewery (established in 2013 by Jan Srb and since expanded) is visible from exterior windows and windows in the restaurant area.

Regular beers from Pivovar Falkenštejn also include Rudoch (Red ale), Ostroff (Amber lager), Tropická bouře (Hazy NEIPA) and in March, Náhlá Smrt (Sudden death, 10% ABV Imperial Cascadian dark ale dedicated to 'Lemmy' of Motörhead.).

Krásná Lípa was an interesting place to stay and has a Tourist Information office. Pivovar Falkenštejn is recommended for its friendly welcome, beer, food and accommodation.

After a good breakfast at the guesthouse, we checked out and caught a bus to Varnsdorf on a scenic route to connect with a train to Liberec with a route that passes through Germany and Poland.

Arrival at Liberec

Zámecký Pivovar Frýdlant 'Albrecht'

On Friday, after lunch and checking in to Hotel Liberec we headed back to Liberec station for a busy train to Frýdlant v Čechách. This was a steady uphill journey for most of the way with fine views that takes 31 minutes to cover 26km.

From the station we walked the 1.5km to the brewery via the town and the Frýdlant castle park.

The Pivovar Albrecht brewery and office is on the left side with high windows.

We entered the whitewashed taproom using the door on the right side and found a table under the small window.

The Pivovar Albrecht taproom has wood panelling and there are some cushions to compensate for the hard seats.

Details of the draught beers are pinned to an upright supporting the narrow bar counter. Tim found the dark Kateřina 12 (0.3l 50Kc) slightly disappointing but the Andělská IPA 23 (10% ABV, 0.3l 58Kc) with a thick head, strong aroma and barley sugar sweetness was a treat.

We took an alternative route for the walk back to the station as darkness fell, beside the river Smědá which skirts the hill topped by Frýdlant castle.

The train to Liberec seemed to coast downhill quickly back to the city.

Pivovar Kotouč

We visited Česká Kamenice on Tuesday 17 March, our last day in the Czech Republic, before taking the European Sleeper train back to Brussels and then Eurostar to London.

The 10.36 train from Děčín hl.n. reached Česká Kamenice at 11.05.

It was a nice surprise to discover on the walk into town from the station that there was a brewery in the town although Pizza Kamenice, the nearby associated pizza cafe, is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

The town centre looks smart after recent investment and staff at the tourist information centre were helpful.

For coffee they suggested Hosana cafe at the renovated cultural centre which also serves beer.

A good recommendation and after a morning visit for coffee, a subsequent visit allowed a first taste of beer from the town's brewery - draught Kamenicka Kaple (5.7% ABV).

At lunchtime we had visited another recommended establishment near the river Kamenice - Restaurace U Slunce - where the refreshing draught beer was Bakalář Světlý ležák (4.9% ABV). Three other draught beers were available including Pilsner Urquell and Kozel 11.

Walking back to the station, we stopped for another look at the brewery buildings and discovered that a blue door led to a large hallway with a staircase. A pine door at first floor level led to the brewery and large taproom with a vaulted ceiling and clay tile flooring. .

The brewery was in a far corner of the room.

There's a suit of armour in another corner, a billiard table and a variety of mismatched furniture which provides plenty of seating space.

There were five draught beers at the bar counter.

The taproom was busy at 4pm on a Tuesday but the competitive prices may be part of the explanation.

Tim's 0.5l chunky-handled glass of Kamenický Zlaták 11° cost 45 Kc (approx £1.65) and was his favourite beer of the day. All too soon it was time to catch the 16.46 train back to Děčín.

Train travel notes

Ticket prices on Czech Railways are cheaper than in the UK.

Passengers over 65 qualify for a 50% reduction on standard fares but may need to present a passport on request for proof of age.

The Czech Railways App is good and allows tickets to be purchased online and stored on a mobile device without the need for a printed ticket.