Utrecht & Zeist, NL - 2025

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Utrecht and Zeist

Utrecht is the fourth-largest city of the Netherlands. Zeist is about 9km east of Utrecht. Several fast and frequent bus routes link their centres. With good value hotel accommodation and a family history connection we would make Zeist our base for two nights.

Travelling west by train from Zutphen, via Apeldoorn (Gelderland) we passed Amersfoort before arriving at Utrecht Centraal, the busiest station in the Netherlands, on a sunny Sunday (14 September).

Utrecht - Sunday

L to R: North east aspect, Concourse over platforms & North west aspect of Utrecht Centraal station

There's a model blue locomotive with rabbit ears motif at the west end of the concourse (Jaarbeurszijde).

Research reveals that Utrecht has a link with Miffy because Dick Bruna lived and worked there.

Leaving the station on the east side (Centrumzijde) and passing through the Hoog Catharijne shopping centre, we then headed south on the pedestrianised Lange Elisabethstraat in search of a cafe.

Cafe de Binnenstad offers good service and the view from the tables along the side wall includes a trombone and a set of drums above the bar. The beer range is supplied by AB InBev breweries.

Binnenstad is the name for the central area of Utrecht that includes the station, the Oudegracht canal with its wharf cellars and Domtoren, the tallest church tower in the Netherlands.

On the way to Neude bus stop we crossed the Oudegracht by Bakkerbrug and reached the paved open space of Neude, dominated by the former main Post Office which now houses a library.

Bierlokaal de Luifel and Cafe 't Neutje - Neude

Many cafes overlook the space including Bierlokaal de Luifel (featuring Brouwerij Eleven, VandeStreek, De Kromme Haring & Oproer) and Cafe 't Neutje with its long bar and traditional interior.

An imposing stone building with a clock tower was noticed in Nobelstraat, Utrecht from the bus to Zeist. Research identified it as Pietas Kantoorgebouw dating from 1904. It overlooks Stammetsbrug that crosses the Drift canal.

Utrecht - Monday

A bus took us from Zeist back to Utrecht station on Monday meeting a heavy downpour which soon passed. Heading north west on foot from the station we then followed the tree-lined Leidsekade path west, beside a canal, until we reached the traditional sawmill De Ster and took shelter from another passing shower.

Reached by crossing a drawbridge, the timber buildings around the yard for Molen de Ster now cater for a variety of activities including a cafe, woodworkers studios and homes for families as well as pigs and other livestock.

L to R: Abel Tasman brug; Vellinghaven & Utrecht Centraal

We took a mainly waterside route which included the Merwede canal, lined by houseboats, to get back to the bridge that crosses the railway tracks just south of the station.

With Cafe DeRat as the destination, we followed the Stadsbuitengracht (City Outer canal) south passing an unusual building with a UFO attached. Research reveals this as a building known as De Inktpot and now occupied by ProRail. The largest brick building in the Netherlands acquired the 'UFO' in 2000 as part of  'Panorama 2000' designed to show art exhibits in the city that could only be viewed from a distance. 

Reaching Bartholomeibrug with its combined streetlight / road barrier housing we crossed the canal and walked east along Lange Smeestraat past Bartholomeus Gashuis to reach De Rat on a corner.

Cafe DeRat was quiet on a Monday afternoon and we were able to choose a window table near the bar. Blackboards have beer details and a clipboard on the bar has a printed beer menu.

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