03 July 2014

Wadworth brewery tour, Devizes, Wiltshire, UK

Wadworth (Northgate) brewery, Devizes
The Wadworth brewery tours at 11am and 2pm from Monday to Saturday are interesting and good value.
Book ahead to assure a place on the tour that starts from the visitor centre of the historic Northgate brewery in Devizes, built in 1885 after the original brewery, dating from 1875, became inadequate. If the tours are fully booked or at an inconvenient time it is still possible to make a free visit to the visitors centre, which is open from 10am until 5pm.
Visitor centre with introductory displays and merchandise
Talitha conducted the tour I was booked on with visitors from USA, France and the UK donning orange high visibility jackets at the outset. Her wide knowledge of the brewery and her friendly and natural approach made the 75 minute tour interesting and the time passed quickly.
Talitha (right) stands next to the old Customs office
After climbing the first of several flights of stairs we reached the floor with an old Customs office (last used in 1994) and brewers offices, where we had the chance to taste some malted barley and smell some hop pellets.
The two Mash Tuns were located on the highest level that we would climb to. The oldest one dates from 1885 and together they can hold 300 barrels.
Old copper with steam coil visible
The old open topped copper is used every September, early in the hop picking season when Malt & Hops is brewed as this relies on the addition of hop flowers rather than hop pellets. It is also used occasionally at other times of the year. It was originally heated by fire but in 1938 a steam coil was added to provide an alternative heat source. A hood was added in the 1960's to funnel the steam out of the building. The historic copper is one of five in the country and can hold 25000 litres of wort from the mash tuns.
Foil packs of hops stacked next to the Hopback.
Fresh hops can be added when the hopped wort reaches the Hopback.This vessel needs to be manually cleaned out after every use.
New brew house with holding vessel on left and new 'copper' on right.
A new, fuel efficient, brew house with vessels manufactured by Steinecker is now used for most of the brewing. In this set up a Whirlpool (partly visible in lower right corner of photo above) replaces the Hopback of the Victorian brew house and has the advantage of being self-cleaning.
The cooper's shop provided a chance to view oak casks in various stages of completion and the tools used by the cooper. Less than 3% of Wadworth beer is now served from oak casks but these are still supplied to certain pubs so a master cooper, Alastair Simms, can be called on to produce new casks and maintain the old ones.
Yeast overflowing from a fermentation vessel
It was fascinating to see the fermentation vessels where the yeast was working and causing the top surface to move around with surplus foaming yeast sliding over the top leading edge of the deep rectangular vessel to be collected on the floor below. The surplus yeast is killed off and can then be supplied as a foodstuff for pigs.
Talitha led us out from the brewery and across Northgate Street to visit the sign workshop. Here we could see the artists at work painting pub signs and notices.
Max the shire horse - keen for a minty treat!
Monty and Max, the shire horses, are stabled in an adjacent building and we stopped to greet them. Talitha gave the horses a minty treat and Monty entertained us by insisting on more by kicking on his stable door!
Wadworth drays
We passed the drays that Monty and Max haul around the pubs of Devizes, on our way back to the visitor centre where we handed in our high visibility jackets. This was not the end of the tour as we now had an opportunity to sample beers from Wadworth brewery.
Talitha described the beers available from the Mezzanine bar inside the visitor centre - Ipanema, 6X, Bishop's Tipple, Swordfish and Horizon. Soft drinks are also available for younger visitors. Tour visitors were given a half hour to sample as many beers as we liked, served in one third pint glasses. It was a hot day so I started with Horizon, a refreshing beer brewed with pale ale malt and Styrian Goldings, Fuggles and Cascade hops. My second beer was Ipanema, the seasonal beer for the 2014 World Cup that is brewed with four malts and includes American hops. There was also time for a third of a pint of 6X, first brewed in 1923 and now brewed at 4.1% ABV.
It was now time for me to catch the 49 bus to Swindon, via Avebury. Devizes does not have a railway station but is also served by direct buses from Bath and Trowbridge.

Click on Link for more details of the Wadworth brewery tour.




22 May 2014

Two beer bars in Valencia

I can recommend a visit to Valencia, on the Spanish Mediterranean coast, that was founded by the Romans in 138 BC. We found that May, before the main tourist season, was a good month to visit with fine warm weather. The airport is well connected to the city by Metro Valencia. It is a cycling friendly city with plenty of cycle paths including one in the old river bed that has been converted to a linear park since the river was re-routed.
Valencia - Central market - inaugurated in 1928
The historic centre has many interesting buildings including some in modernist style like the central market. It is separated from the beach by a large residential / commercial area so it is worth getting to know the metro, bus and cycling options for travel around the city.
Horchata (Orxata in Valencian) is a sweet, creamy, drink made from chufas (tiger nuts) that is a nourishing and refreshing drink available from vendors at the beach and specialist cafes.
Ratebeer proved useful for identifying two beer bars to visit during our visit.

1. Birra & Blues (Sunday)

On a Sunday, Meg and I joined the throng of visitors walking along the beachside promenade separated from the sea by a long sandy beach.
We passed a shop called Ale-Hop but discovered that it sells colourful clothes, hats and espadrilles but no beer!
Horchata and chufas (tiger nuts)
A cool drink of horchata, from a mobile stall was a refreshing way to break the long walk to the Birra & Blues brewpub situated at 34 Avenue Mare Nostrum (Alboraya).
Birra & Blues
Spaghetti & Blues
Birra & Blues is immediately behind its sister establishment, Spaghetti & Blues, which overlooks the promenade and the beach beyond at Playa de la Patacona.

Although there was no brewing on a Sunday, the brewing vessels are visible behind the bar. The clips for the six fonts showed that three different draught beers were available - Tostada, Doble Malta and Rubia.

The server kindly poured taster glasses of each draught beer and I chose the Rubia (blonde) for a refreshing lunchtime beer in the shaded surroundings of the smart bar with views of the sky and attractive shrubs.
The view from a table in the courtyard
The beer list and a glass of Rubia on a table in the courtyard
The Rubia cost 5 euros for a 500ml glass. Bottles were also available (3 euros for 330 ml or 6 euros for 750ml). The beer came with quite a big head and was very effervescent in the glass.
Before leaving we ordered two 330 ml bottles, from the fridge, of beers that were not available on draught, to drink on another occasion.
John Lee Blues
The John Lee Blues (red ale) named after John Lee Hooker was drunk on a four hour train trip from Valencia (Sant Isidre) to Cuenca.
La Negra
The La Negra (pumpkin ale produced like a brown ale) was eventually drunk at Hostal Benamar in Madrid and proved spicy and full flavoured.
The terminus of the number 19 bus is nearby for a convenient journey back to the city.

2a. Ruzanuvol (closed on Sundays) + El Abrazo de la China

Later on Sunday we visited the Russafa / L'Eixample area which lies south of the city centre. 
 We discovered that Ruzanuvol is closed on Sunday and resolved to return the next day. 
A bottle of Alhambra Especial at nearby bar - El Abrazo de la China - eased the disappointment.


2b. Ruzanuvol (Monday) + Las Cervezas del Mercado

Number 40 bus from near our hotel took us past the impressive 'City of Arts and Sciences' site that includes the Science Museum Príncipe Felipe designed by Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava. 
Science Museum Principe Felipe (foreground) - viewed from the bus
We got off the bus before reaching the centre of the city at a stop on Avenue Regne de València in the Russafa neighbourhood, near Ruzanuvol Cerveceria Artesanal at Luís Santángel, 3.
We were the third customers to arrive, soon after 7pm opening time. Two fathers with young children were occupying the bar area so we found a table and sat on a bench with comfortable cushions made from recycled sacks of malt after consulting the blackboard and ordering our beers.
a caña from Birrificio Italiano
A great deal of care has gone into the furnishing and decoration of Ruzanuvol. The interior is light and pleasant with ingredients of beer illustrated on the walls and furniture made from pale wood. There are also tables on the pavement outside, where smoking is permitted.
This is a great bar for lovers of Italian beer as the draught beers were from Birrificio Italiano and Birrificio Lambrate. With a caña, a small glass of draught beer, costing 2 euros, this was a good opportunity to try several beers without spending too much. Tipopils, a blonde lager, from Birrificio Italiano was the obvious choice to start and deserves its reputation as a lager worth seeking out. (Tipopils is the house lager at the Finborough Arms, Earl's Court, London).
Free buffet with your beer from 7pm to 9pm
We had previously noticed the generous provision of a free buffet between the hours of 7pm and 9pm on the shutters when finding the pub closed on Sunday.
The bowls on the shelf under the blackboard listing the draught beers and their prices is where we were able to help ourselves to the 'Aperitivo Milanese' of crisps, olives, bread sticks and other snacks..
It was soon time to order another beer and a caña of Sant'Ambroeus from Birrificio Lambrate gave me a chance to taste a stronger Belgian style ale.
Giovanni with Ullage (West Berkshire CAMRA magazine)
When the first customers had left, I introduced myself to Giovanni and gave him a copy of Ullage, the West Berkshire CAMRA magazine. He kindly let me take a photo of him behind the bar to appear in a future edition of Ullage.
Birrificio Lambrate - Ligera
Giovanni explained that he used to live in Milan before opening Ruzanuvol in 2010. Birrificio Lambrate is based in Milan and Birrificio Italiano is based in Lurago Marinone, north of Milan. American Pale Ale is one of my favourite beer styles so it was time to spend 5 euros for a 'pint' (usually 500ml in Italy) of Ligera from Birrificio Lambrate. Giovanni let me take a look at his copy of the Birrificio Lambrate beer catalogue which included tasting notes and details of ingredients for their beers in English. Ligera is brewed with Pilsner, Munich, Caramunich and Carafa malts and Chinook, Cascade, Amarillo and Willamette hops.
Patatas bravas
We ordered some food from the 'Para Picar' blackboard including 'Bravas Bravissimas', roast potatoes served with tomato and creamy sauces on the side, costing 4.20 euros.
I had already sampled Meg's B.I. Weizen from Birrificio Italiano, a pale yellow wheat beer so ordered a caña of Bibock, the amber beer of Birrificio Italiano which has been produced since 1997. Between us we had now sampled all the draught beers so now it was time to find a bus to take us back to the hotel.
a last look at Ruzanuvol Cerveceria Artesanal - Hasta Luego!
Before leaving, Giovanni introduced me to Jordi, a new visitor from Cervezas Artesanas Sénia a microbrewery founded in 2010 in Alginet, about 20 km south of Valencia. It looks like a return visit to Valencia, incorporating an extra trip to visit Jordi at his brewing base, is going to be worthwhile. A blog post (in Spanish) from November 2010 by Lupuloadicto describes Cervesa Sènia and includes photos of the brewery and its founders - Cervesa La Sénia.

Las Cervezas del Mercado - inside Valencia central market
There were no bottles to take away from Ruzanuvol but an earlier visit to Las Cervezas del Mercado at Valencia's central market had realised a bottle of Au Yeah from Valencia brewery Tyris.
Tyris 'Au Yeah' occupies a seat on the train
This American pale ale style beer was also drunk the following day, on a four hour train trip from Valencia (Sant Isidre) to Cuenca and is recommended as my favourite bottled beer on this trip to Spain.

23 March 2014

Craft Beer Rising 2014 - Part 2

The second Craft Beer Rising festival was also held inside the Old Truman Brewery building, Brick Lane, London.
TRUM letters visible on the original Truman brewery chimney

Franciscan Well

The original Truman brewery chimney could be seen through the window behind the Franciscan Well Brewery stand which was where Steve Kelly and I continued our tour on Saturday 22 February, 2014.

Franciscan Well Brewery - Friar Weisse
Wheat beers are a favourite of mine so it was nice to be offered a taste of Friar Weisse (4.7%) 'a German style unfiltered wheat beer with citrus notes on the palate and powerful aroma of clove and banana imparted by a unique yeast strain'. Steve rated the Shandon Stout highly on Untappd and found it 'smooth'.
Paudie Scully (brewer) - Franciscan Well Brewery
Paudie Scully, the brewer was on hand to give us information about Franciscan Well Brewery. The brewery was founded in 1998 on the site of a 13th century Franciscan monastery on the North Mall in Cork City, Ireland. There is a brew pub with a beer garden next door. The brewery has recently been purchased by Molson Coors and a bigger brewery will be built in Cork's docklands. Friar Weisse and Rebel Red are available in 330ml bottles from the larger Tesco Extra stores.

Celt Experience / Tap East

The Celt Experience / Tap East stall included pipework and a barrel behind the bar.
Celt Experience / Tap East stall
The Celt Experience beers use hops from the USA, Australia, New Zealand and Europe. The brewery is based in Caerphilly. Their website mentions that the 'brewery is held on the earth by its desire to reflect Beer and Art as one, reflecting on urban culture and paranormal spirit ...'. Steve liked the Brigid Fire (6.3% ABV) smoked rye IPA, a new core beer launched in 2014 to replace Bronze Age. There were also beers from Tap East, the specialist beer bar and microbrewery at the Westfield Stratford City Mall in East London. Sour Saxon, a 4.3% ABV sour Berliner Weiss collaborative beer brewed by Tom Newman (Celt Experience) and Jim Wilson (Tap East) was also available.

Ilkley Brewery

The Ilkley brewery stand was one that I could not pass without trying a beer from as I like the brewery's hoppy style found in beers like Mary Jane. Sensibly, I chose Dinner Ale with a low ABV (3.3%). This Victorian Pale Ale was brewed with a recipe from 1884 found in the archives of the original brewery in Ilkley. Stella (Australian) and Calypso (American) hops give the pale ale a modern slant. Steve rated his glass of The Chief, a 7% ABV American Double IPA, highly and described it as 'HOPPY'!
Christa Sandquist, brewer, Ilkley Brewery with 'Ullage' magazine
After talking to Christa Sandquist, it soon became obvious from her accent that she was not originally from Yorkshire. She explained that she was from Washington State, USA, and had been brewing at Harviestoun brewery for two years before moving to Ilkley Brewery in 2013. Christa accepted a copy of 'Ullage', the West Berkshire CAMRA magazine, as seen on the counter in the photo above.

Nene Valley Brewery

The Big Bang Theory beer at the Nene Valley Brewery stand caught astrophysicist Steve's eye!
Paul Woodcock - Nene Valley Brewery
Nene Valley Brewery is based at Oundle Wharf, by the North Bridge into Oundle, Northamptonshire and reintroduced brewing to the town in September 2012 after an absence of exactly fifty years.
Steve had to have a Big Bang Theory (5.3% ABV) which he rated highly and described as 'Lovely, hoppy not bitter'.My choice was Australian Pale (OZP in the brewery's three letter code system - 4.4% ABV) a golden ale with citrus and tropical fruit flavours. Paul, a Nene Valley brewer with a Master's degree in Brewing and Distilling from Heriot-Watt university, advised that the hops used include Mosaic in Big Bang Theory and Galaxy in Australian Pale. Steve noticed the black Big Bang Theory t-shirt that Paul was wearing and treated himself to one from the stock for sale.

WEST Brewery

Rachel greeted us at the West Brewery stand and explained that the Glasgow Green based brewery and beer hall was started in 2006 by Petra Wetzel from Bavaria.

Rachel MacKay (Sales) & Petra M. Wetzel (Founder) - WEST Brewery
At WEST Brewery, wheat beers and lagers are brewed according to the Reinheitsgebot, the German Purity Law dating back to 1516. We appreciated samples of Hefeweizen (5.2% ABV) a classic Bavarian style wheat beer and G.P.A. (5.2% ABV) made with both malted barley and wheat, strongly hopped with American Chinook and Hallertau Mittelfrueh hops. A tall fridge held 33cl bottles of St Mungo, WEST's flagship lager named after Glasgow's patron saint. St Mungo (4.9% ABV) 'pure heavenly' lager is available from Waitrose stores and we were each able to take a bottle away from the stand to enjoy later.


Part 3 - to follow ..............


21 March 2014

Craft Beer Rising 2014 - Part 1

Steve Kelly and I enjoyed spending an afternoon at the first Craft Beer Rising event at The Old Truman Brewery, Brick Lane, London in 2013.
In 2014, I was really pleased when Steve gave me a ticket to the second event at my n0th birthday in February. A few days later, on Saturday 22 February, we caught a train from Newbury changing at Paddington for the tube to Liverpool Street. On the way to the Old Truman Brewery, I stopped to get a coffee and we arrived soon after the 11am opening time. After exchanging tickets for a tasting glass and beer tokens we headed for one of the closest stalls which was Arbor / Wiper and True.

Wiper and True

William (Wiper and True)
While I sipped my coffee, Steve ordered a Fire Plough (5.5% ABV). This smoked porter was a collaboration between Arbor Ales and Wiper and True which Steve (a Bristolian) rated highly.
We questioned William about the distinctive black and white symbols that were visible at the stall and made into badges. He revealed that each symbol is associated with a particular style of beer:

Elephant - IPA
Balloon - Amber ale
Diver's Helmet - Porter
Space Shuttle - Stout

On the Wiper and True website Michael Wiper and William Hartley describe themselves as 'experimenters and inventors - exploring new and delicious beers that we can't wait to share'.
William told us that they started off using other brewers' plant including Cotswold Brewing and Cheddar Ales but that they now have their own 5 barrel kit based at an industrial unit in St Werburghs, between the M32 and Ashley Down in Bristol, north-east of the city centre. They are planning for up to 20 barrels in the future.
The leaflets produced for each of their beers include comprehensive notes about the ingredients used. The leaflets also mention that their bottled beers are bottle conditioned with some yeast left in to allow secondary fermentation. The result of this technique is 'a light fizz that we think provides a more refined texture and mouthfeel'. Most breweries use finings to make their beer clear. This may result in their beer being a bit cloudy but 'we feel that this is a small sacrifice to pay to keep it pure and vegan friendly'.

Truman's

The neon sign at the Truman's stall which was also decorated with feathers and a traditional Truman's pub mirror featuring the black eagle caught my eye.
Truman's Blindside, Attaboy, Runner & Emperor on draught

As well as draught beers from the 'new' Truman's brewery 'established 1666, re-established 2010' now based at The Eyrie, Hackney Wick, there were bottles of London Keeper with individual labels.

Truman's London Keeper - 1880 Double Export Stout, 8% ABV

London Keeper was the first beer to be brewed at The Eyrie in August 2013. Only 2000 75cl bottles were produced.
Steve tried a glass of draught Blindside (4.4% ABV), a golden ale produced in January 2014 for availability during the Six Nations Rugby Union Championship competition. English hops (First Gold, Sovereign and Pilgrim) were used but Steve did not find the taste as hoppy as expected.

Adnams

Just across from Truman's was the Adnams stall and it was time for my first beer, Adnams (Jack Brand) Mosaic pale ale (4.1% ABV), a single hop beer brewed with a relatively new variety of American hops.
Ruth at the Adnam's stall
The heritage of Mosaic hops involves Simcoe and Nugget, giving a flavour similar to Citra. This was an ideal beer to start the day with and Ruth was able to give us a lot of information about the beers available at the stall that included Jack Brand Rye IPA (5% ABV), Jack Brand Dry Hopped Lager (4.2% ABV) which is dry hopped with Galaxy hops from Australia and Adnams Ghost Ship (4.5% ABV), already one of my favourite beers.

Lagunitas

Steve and I were both keen to try the only beer left at the adjacent Lagunitas stall - Lagunitas IPA. Little Sumpin', a seasonal beer, had already sold out.
Ben, Fraser and Steve
Fraser Murray poured our beers and gave us some background gained from his six years experience with the company in Northern California. Lagunitas IPA (6.2% ABV) was the first seasonal beer to be brewed at Petaluma, about 30 miles north of San Francisco, back in 1995.
It was interesting to discover that a 40 foot container load of Lagunitas beer (mainly kegs) arrives in the UK every four weeks after a sea journey involving two oceans via the Panama Canal and lasting 33 days. Lagunitas beer is also shipped to Sweden. The journey time is set to be reduced to 9 days when a second brewery opens in Chicago, enabling a container load to be transported by rail to New Jersey for transhipment to the UK.
The Chicago brewery will also reduce the amount of money spent on diesel fuel for truckloads of beer from California to 40 states in the USA because many journeys will be shorter from Chicago.
Lagunitas bottle top - fridge magnet
Fraser was asked about the relevance of the dog in Lagunitas branding and it turns out that not only is founder, Tony Magee, a dog owner but the brewery is also 'dog friendly'.
I was grateful to Fraser for explaining how to pronounce Lagunitas correctly, La- gun- eee- tas, with emphasis on the third syllable.
Congratulations to Steve on logging Lagunitas IPA as his 1000th unique beer on Untappd. We both liked the hoppy nature of Lagunitas IPA but also found it a bit fizzy on this occasion. This must be a common reaction from real ale drinkers!

To Be Continued in Part 2 ...