25 February 2025

Namur 2025

 


The Citadel tops the land that separates the rivers Meuse and Sambre at the point where they meet in Namur.

On the slopes of the citadel, a golden sculpture by Jan Fabre 'In Search of Utopia' is also visible from the rivers' banks.

Namur is located about 34 miles southeast of Brussels in Wallonia which is the French speaking part of Belgium. It is a fairly compact city to navigate with the university, the cathedral and most of the shops and bars lying between the rebuilt railway station and the rivers. 

The university and the cathedral lie just to the west of the 'Quartier Historique'.

Le Chapitre

Situated immediately south of the cathedral, at Rue du Seminaire 4, Le Chapitre, was the first bar we visited after checking in to the new B&B Hotel near the station on Wednesday 29 January.
N.B. The bar is entered from a badly lit side door and not from the corner. We had been warned that it was cash only so never attempted to pay be card here.

Tables of different sizes are well spaced around the room with the simple bar set in a corner. Decoration includes enamel brewery signs and some hops. 

Philomene Florale brewed locally by Brasserie du Clocher is available on draught and my first beer was a bottle of Saison Dupont. It was a relief to find such an ideal bar with a relaxed environment to enjoy a favourite beer after a full day of train travel.

No meals are served but a 'Suggestions' blackboard mentions plates of Cheese, Sausage or a Mixture of both are available.
A large blackboard on the inside wall lists all the beers with prices that make paying for two beers with a €10 note an easy option. We would return here on three subsequent evenings for a beer and never failed to find a table or an interesting beer to try from the blackboard. These included: Saxo (Brasserie Caracole); La Corne du Bois des Pendus Triple (Brasserie del Legendes); Queue de Charrue Vieille Brune / Ploegsteert Oud Bruin (Brasserie / Brouwerij Vanuxeem); La Trappe Quadrupel (Bierbrouwerij De Koningshoeven) and Delirium Nocturnum (Delirium - Huyghe Brewery).

Brasserie Francois

Situated near the front entrance to the cathedral, Brasserie Francois, with its neon sign outside and bright lights inside, was almost the polar opposite experience to Le Chapitre! Diners are seated on the left and drinkers on the right and we were shown to an appropriate table from the central entrance.
It was nice to find two local beers from Brasserie du Clocher (Philomene) and Brasserie Houppe (La Houppe) available on draught at this upmarket 'Carlsberg' establishment. The 25cl glasses (€6) were generously filled and our drinks were served with a complimentary small bowl of nuts.
From our seats on the right, overlooking the central island bar, there was constant activity to observe with bar service and waiters working hard. We looked at the food menu but decided against eating here. 

Barnabeer

By the time we reached Barnabeer, at Rue de Bruxelles 39, it was 10.30pm but it was fairly quiet on a Wednesday night.
The entire length of the bar in the back room is lined with beer fonts and there are fridges and shelves behind the bar for bottles and cans.
We found a table in the front room which has tall lockable cages for beer bottle storage against two walls obscuring the windows to the street.
Barnabeer publishes its own retro-style newspaper that includes the current beer list and some advertisements. It seemed like a good idea to order La BarnaB brewed in Wallonia especially for the bar by Brasserie de Jandrain-Jandrenouille. This draught Dry Hop Pale Ale was €3.90 for a 25cl glass. 
A good thing about the draught beer list for the more expensive beers is that all the 15cl (Galopin) measures are priced at €3. 
For our last beers of the evening we were able to taste 15cl glasses of the Trappist collaboration beer between Zundert (NL) and Tynt Meadow (UK) in the dark Belgian Dubbel style and Brasserie de la Tour Eldorado, a Belgian Triple IPA. Thankfully, Eldorado was a suggestion from our server and turned out to be one of the beers featured in Hidden Beers of Belgium, written by Breandan Kearney and published in 2024. It appears there as beer number 11, in the 'Wolf Pack' section against Brasserie Des Champs, a farm brewery in nearby Spy, established by Jean-Christophe Larsimont, formerly a skin cancer researcher.
The Barnabeer newspaper also included the above plan of the rooms and terrace. Other pages list all the bottled beers available.
There's also a page for brewery locations with a map. The free newspaper was interesting to look through and would make an excellent souvenir of any visit. 
Leaving at midnight, I stopped to get a photo of a board which highlighted another feature in the newspaper - Les Aperos du Jeudi - as a reminder to return to take advantage of the visit of representatives from Brasserie du Clocher and a free 15cl glass (Galopin) of their beer on Thursday evening.
Barnabeer was much more lively on Thursday evening but we were able to find space at a table in the front room. My choice of a free Galopin from Brasserie du Clocher, was Philomene Celeste, a Blonde / Amber Triple. The brewery is housed in a church in Malonne, near Namur.
It would be rude to depart without paying for a beer so this was a good opportunity to try Jambes en l'Air, a Blonde beer brewed a few miles south of Namur by Brasserie Houppe. 
The brewery logo features two people walking on stilts.
Barnabeer, opening at 2pm (closed Sundays),  with its helpful serving staff, Thursday tastings, and wide beer range featuring exclusive beers is an easy to find Namur bar that is not to be missed!

Chez Juliette

Chez Juliette has a rather anonymous corner setting where Rue des Brasseurs meets Place Maurice Servais and is just across from the base station for the Telepherique / Cable car service which crosses the river Sambre and rises up to the Citadel. It was the first bar / cafe we found open after a wet Thursday afternoon investigating the grounds of the Citadel.
The big windows and the concrete uprights and bar are determining features of the space which has some homely and colourful touches applied with lampshades, artwork and retro furnishings.
The beer list included Quintine de Noel on draught and a winter beer seemed appropriate (below).
After enjoying this visit we returned on Saturday evening when Chez Juliette was much busier but we were able to find space at a table. 
Dogs are welcome here and there is even a dog bed under one end of the bar!
On Saturday there was a chance to sample two rare bottled beers. La Roseau, with floral and earthy notes, is brewed by Brasserie Artisanale MilleVertus, Tintigny, in the south of Wallonia for Chez Juliette. A local at the bar had advised us on Thursday that there were better beers on the list than Brase but as it was brewed for establishments in the Rue des Brasseurs it needed tasting! Brase, a light lime blossom beer, is a 'Biere de froment au tilleul' brewed by Brasserie Bertinchamps near Gembloux, between Namur and Brussels. Brase earned a relatively low score from Tim on untappd but his expectations had been low!

La Cuve a Biere

Only a few doors west along Rue des Brasseurs leads to La Cuve a Biere entered via a courtyard.
On Thursday, it had been closed earlier but we were advised to return and then found it open with an industrial hot air blower to raise the temperature. We were the only customers and found a table near the entrance with a view of the bar.
There's a blackboard with the beer list outside the entrance and the five matching brass fonts are in the middle of the circular bar which looks like a large barrel from the front.
Steps lead up to a DJ area at the left side of the room. A pair of stilts with spiral stripes are displayed at an oblique angle over a central opening to the rear (Houppe is one of the draught beers) and a motorbike is suspended over lounge seating on the far wall. This may reference the motocross competitions that Namur is known for. Beers chosen here included: a can of Sunlight des Tropiques brewed by Brasserie du Borinage, located west of Mons and the reliable Tripel Karmeliet from Brouwerij Bosteels, €4 on draught.

We enjoyed our visit to Namur. Although the capital of Wallonia, it doesn't really compare with a busy city like Antwerp. It remains a pleasant city to visit and with bars like Le Chapitre and Barnabeer and it's good rail connections, it makes a good centre for a beer lover's visit to Wallonia, Belgium.

Addendum

A few points arising from our visit:
B&B Hotel - recommended budget hotel with some rooms having views of the station
Liquorette by Alfonse, Rue des Brasseurs 94 - recommended for a relaxed meal / drink
Phat-Thai - recommended Thai restaurant
Cafeo - A busy brasserie earmarked for a future visit
Friterie du Parc - recommended kiosk at north east corner of the Parc Louise Marie
Direct trains to Brussels, Liege, Dinant, Mons and Luxembourg etc leave from Namur station.


02 November 2024

Lille and beyond - 2024

Lille Flandres station
Lille is only around 85 minutes from London by Eurostar train. Lille Europe station, served by Eurostar, is a short walk from Lille Flandres station where local trains depart to destinations including Lens and Armentieres. 

ilevia Metro and Tram network at Lille Europe
Both stations are connected to Metro line 2 (red) from Lomme to Dron which serves Croix, Roubaix and Tourcoing. See appendix for more details about public transport options.

On a visit to Lille, staying at Plaine Images near Roubaix, from Tuesday 10 - Saturday 14 September 2024, a busy schedule for Tim Thomas (on left in photo above) included visits to Croix / Villeneuve d'Ascq (Tuesday), Tourcoing, Roubaix and Croix (Wednesday), Tournai and Kortrijk in Belgium (Wednesday), Lens and Armentieres (Thursday), leaving Saturday to explore Lille. Links for related blog posts (highlighted below) cover:

This post covers: Lens (La Loco); Armentieres (Brasserie Motte Cordonnier) and Lille (L'Illustration).

Lens - La Loco

Tim secured online TER train tickets for 2 euros each way 'Prix Casses Hauts-de-France' by booking in advance using the SNCF Connect app. The outward train was delayed and left late running non-stop to Lens, arriving at 10.40. Times shown on the tickets for Friday 13 September:
  • Out:  9.40       Lille Flandres    a. 10.20 Lens    TER 843212
  • Return: 14.41 Lens     a. 15.20  Lille Flandres  TER 843225 
The walk from the station (photo under heading) via Rue Jean Letienne and then under the railway line at Pont Cesarine with colourful street art to Louvre-Lens Museum took about 40 minutes. This includes several stops to read information boards and take photos on the surfaced path through woodland that follows the route of the old mine railway that led from Pont Cesarine to Pit 9.
From a footbridge across Rue Paul Bert the summit of mining slag heap Terril 74b in Loos-en-Gohelle (UNESCO World Heritage site) is visible beyond the end of the road and Stade Bollaert-Delelis, the home of RC Lens, to the right.
It was nice to see a display of boxed beers and books about beer in the shop of the Louvre-Lens museum. The museum offers free entry to the 3,000 square metre single storey display area 'La Galerie du temps', arranged chronologically, which opened in 2012.
After returning to Lens station, on foot and by bus, the idea of a beer at L'Imbeertinence (above) was thwarted by the explanation that no seats were available and one couldn't drink a beer at the bar.
Continuing towards the Saint-Leger de Lens church, tables were set on Place Jean Jaures in front of the town hall for a Marche Gourmand. Perhaps the participants were all at L'Imbeertinence? Across the street in an art deco style building, confusingly adorned with A la Ville Limoges, the Lens tourism office suggested La LOCO, a brasserie / friterie opposite the station, as another good place to find a beer.
Thankfully, there was an unreserved table inside, near the corner entrance of La LOCO. A draught Brasserie Castelain CH'TI Blonde and a Croque Monsieur made a pleasant lunch. A small dish of nuts and savoury crackers arrived with the beer. The other French draught beer was Brasserie du Pays Flamand Anosteke NEIPA. Other draught beers included: Brasserie Caulier Paix Dieu and Bon Secours Prestige, brewed just across the Belgian border; Cuvee des Trolls; Liefmans Fruitesse; Tripel Karmeliet; Kwak and Rince Cochon Rouge. La LOCO is popular with all ages and the obvious place to stop for a beer before or after a train journey.

Armentieres - Brasserie Motte-Cordonnier

A visit to Brasserie Motte-Cordonnier was inspired by reading a post on The Good Life France titled The sparkling Beer scene in Lille, northern France which featured it as one of three 'brilliant Lille brewers'.
After the luxury of an almost empty train from Lens to Lille Flandres there was only standing space on the 15.39 departure of the TER HDF K70 train to Dunkirk via Armentieres. 
Tim's 4 day / 96 hour ilevia Pass Pass card covered the cost of this journey as Armentieres (in red box above) is just inside the Lille zone for TER validity.
There was a wait near Armentieres station for a bus to the brewery premises again covered by the Pass Pass card.
The brewery is inside an industrial estate at Ruche des 2 Lys and there is only a small sign to indicate the direction.
A table at the entrance featured a display of all the beers available for sale. Most beers are available in 33 cl or 75 cl bottles.
L to R: Julien and Gauthier - Brasserie Motte-Cordonnier
This Friday late afternoon opening (3pm - 7pm) is for sales rather than as a taproom / bar but customers may be offered a beer to sample. The beers are named after members of the family involved with Brasserie Motte-Cordonnier since it was first established in 1650. The brewery closed at its original site nearby in 2008. In 2019 Henry Motte led a family effort to buy back the name and relaunch the brewery.
Julien offered Tim a taste of Fernand, a Saison, after opening a small bottle. A bottle was purchased to drink later, back in the UK (2.75 euros / 33 cl). 
After Gauthier joined Julien behind the table, he kindly offered Tim a taste of the IPA Blanche he was drinking. Brewed with orange and 'Bergamotte', a bottle was purchased (2.75 euro) to enjoy a week later, back in the UK. 
Thanks to Gauthier also for the gift of a bottle of Rene Blonde, enjoyed later that evening. The label includes the award of Medaille d'Or 2023 in the Ale Blonde Francais category of the France Biere Challenge. A bottle of Emile Blonde Triple, a multiple award winner including World Beer Awards Silver (2024) and Bronze (2021) was also purchased and enjoyed back in the UK.
Keep up to date with the brewery, its beers, awards and stockists via its Facebook page. 
The image above, from a Facebook post before the annual 'la Braderie de Lille' in September, shows stockists of Motte-Cordonnier beers for the 2024 Braderie when market stalls are set up and the central streets are closed to motor traffic. The bars and restaurants listed should be good places to find local beers in Lille. 
Although the Brasserie Motte-Cordonnier has not been involved with collaboration beers perhaps there is an opportunity for a UK brewery to suggest this in future?

Lille - L'Illustration


Saturday 14 September 2024 was the first day of La Braderie de Lille weekend and the last day of Tim's stay in France. There were seats on the M2 metro at Alsace Plaine Images but after passing Roubaix it was packed and a struggle to get off at Lille Europe stop as most passengers were staying on for Lille Flandres stop, nearer the Braderie. 
Leaving a backpack, heavy with 3 bottled beers from Brasserie Motte-Cordonnier and 50cl cans of Kasteel Rouge and Pelforth Blonde, at the staffed left luggage office at Lille Europe was a good idea (5.50 euros for 2 - 10 hours).
                         Place du Theatre                  Grand Place                    Place Maurice Schumann
Although the streets in central Lille were crowded there was still some space in the major squares before noon.
For European Bar Guide, Jack Anderton had tweeted from @europebarguide about a visit to L'llustration five days before. Based on this tweet it may end up with a rating higher than A la Sarthe currently topping the 8 Lille bars featured in the Guide.
         BierBuik                         Rue Royale                                             L'Illustration
Tim's mission for today was to follow in Jack's recent footsteps and his slow progress through the crowded streets of Lille brought him to L'Illustration, 18 Rue Royale, at noon, just as the proprietor and his staff were putting tables and chairs out on the pavement before opening up early for La Braderie.
It was a welcome relief to be allowed inside and be able to choose the 'best' seat as the first customer of the day - near the bar and with a view of the busy street outside and BierBuik on the other side of Rue Royale.
For the first beer of the day, 50 cl of draught Silly Pils Bio was served in an attractive plastic glass (5 euros). As this was La Braderie weekend, most bars in central Lille switched to plastic glasses. The design and lettering on this one had the same art nouveau style as the windows and other features of L'Illustration like the pattern on the bentwood bench against the wall. The attractive design made the plastic glass substitution for a real glass less painful!
As the bar was not busy yet, it was nice that Mafalda spared some time from preparing the bar for a chat. After mentioning that I had enjoyed a visit to the Botanic Gardens at Tourcoing, she advised that she used to live in Tourcoing and that her art background was a reason she liked L'Illustration which regularly features displays by local artists with plenty of hanging space on the colourful walls upstairs.
Upstairs at L'Illustration, Lille
After explaining to the proprietor that a friend had recently recommended L'Illustration he responded that he must appreciate good beer! The Trappist beer range at L'Illustration includes Chimay Bleue, Orval, Rochefort 8 and Westmalle Triple all priced at 6 euros for a 33cl bottle.
Belgian draught beers included De Ranke XX Bitter and Adriaen Brouwer Tripel. Cidre Mauret Exra Bio was the draught cider made locally with apples from Picardy and Normandy. Tim's second draught beer was La Thiriez Bio blonde brewed in France, near Dunkirk and the Belgian border.
More customers arrived including a group with cameras and a guy with several vinyl LPs purchased at La Braderie stalls. He was happy to show Tim his haul which included Elton John and Peter Gabriel LPs and the Clockwork Orange soundtrack. Pol-Ewen mentioned that he was from Brittany and had enjoyed a visit to Ardnamurchan and the west coast of Scotland which shares some coastal similarities. Later, Pol-Ewen's friend arrived and they posed for a photo.
When Tim's glass was empty, the friendly proprietor brought over a sample of draught Cuvee des Jonquilles brewed by Brasserie au Baron 20 km east of Valenciennes and only 100 metres from Belgium! It's a fresh and floral Biere de Garde with the attributes of a strong Saison. This led to a 25cl serving as the third and final beer here.
After 5 days in France and Belgium alone and with only a few social exchanges, this visit to L'Illustration, meeting friendly people in a relaxed environment, was a memorable highlight of the trip. However at 2.15pm it was time to say goodbye from a new favourite place. 
    Le Kremlin, Rue Doudin     Cathedrale Notre-Dame-de-la-Treille        Parc Henri Matisse    
A hurried jog, without any assistance from inaccessible Google maps, to Lille Europe station to retrieve luggage and board Eurostar involved several changes of direction and delays due to crowded streets but luckily Tim knew where to aim for and he wasn't the last in the queue to check in at 2.45pm.
After an 85 minute train journey and regaining an hour for the time difference, Tim was back at St Pancras International before 4pm.

Appendix - public transport options

Details of the ilevia Pass Pass card for travel in Lille can be found in the appendix of a previous 2024 post - Tournai and Kortrijk which also includes information about trains from Lille to Belgium.

The SNCF Connect app is useful for purchasing tickets to destinations outside the Lille area e.g. Lens.