From Stourbridge to the Bull and Bladder

A pleasing way to arrive in Stourbridge is on the West Midlands Railway shuttle from Stourbridge Junction to Stourbridge Town. This was the final stage of my train journey from Newbury via Reading and Worcester on Tuesday 26 November, 2019.

The small railway vehicle heads downhill on the 0.8 mile branch line which can claim to be the shortest in Europe.

After crossing the ring road, a short walk along Stourbridge High Street leads to the Talbot Hotel, a traditional coaching inn which dates back to the 1630s.
I had time to take a photo of the High Street from the second floor bedroom before noticing that the shower fitting was damaged and leaking into the bath. After returning to reception via the creaking staircase I was able to change keys for a different room.

The hall passage to the rear second floor bedroom gave views of the hotel's open courtyard. The tower of St Thomas' Church beyond could be seen from this bedroom. All the floors appear to be sloping at second floor level!
A short walk via Victoria Passage led to Barbridge, based in an old retail unit since 2015.

Barbridge, Stourbridge  [Photo: Mark Geeson]

Mark Geeson and the 'Farnham Trubbellers' were already well established on the high level seating and the only seat I could find was at low level! Mark established that our group included CAMRA members from seven different branches. This is a bar with an appeal to all ages that features music memorabilia.

A blackboard lists four cask beers and four keg beers. My first beer here was Black Iris Snake Eyes, a 3.8% ABV hoppy pale (£2.90 pint 'Happy Hour'). Blues music was playing on the sound system. Our attempts to revisit this bar on subsequent days were unsuccessful as it may have closed early.

As Craddock's Brewery is based at the Duke William, Stourbridge, this was the next pub we decided to visit.

The Duke William was the second Craddock's pub to open in Stourbridge (in 2009). The brewery was installed at the Duke William in March 2011.

Trevor - The Duke William

The Duke William has atmospheric lighting, a fireplace with a stove, and hops for decoration.
Pieminister pies are available with a blackboard above the fireplace giving further details.

My first beer here was Craddock's King's Escape, a 4.7% ABV cask ale. Craddock's pubs have a loyalty card system where stickers are given for each beer and once a card is filled with eight stickers a free beer is offered. Our group were soon able to fill a card!

The Vine Inn aka The Bull and Bladder - Farnham Trubbellers assemble!

A trip through residential streets on a National Express West Midlands number 8 bus service from Stourbridge Interchange to Delph Road, Brierley Hill, took us close to the Vine Inn, also known as the Bull and Bladder. This is the home of Batham's beers.

The public bar on the right of the entrance has an Edwardian bar and a three-bay bar-back with a central clock and a bell for calling 'time'. On arrival, only Batham's Bitter was available but this was the beer that I had been looking forward to drinking.

As the public bar was already busy our large group found tables in another of the rooms and carried our beers through.

One of the large cheese and onion cobs from the bar made an ideal accompaniment for a favourite beer. Martin Taylor's Bull & Bladdered blog post, about his visit to the Vine in April 2019, includes photos of the public bar and a cob at this 'classic pub' which is featured in CAMRA's inventory of historic pub interiors.

A long room at the back of the building has further seating and a darts board over a fire place.

Thanks to an earlier arrangement made by Mark Geeson, our group was privileged to be invited on a tour of the large cellar by landlord Tom. He mentioned that at busy times, the pub can empty a hogshead (54 gallons - shown in photo) in a day. There were also barrels (36 gallons) of Batham's beer in the cellar. (For comparison, the largest size container of cask ale seen in pubs in the south of England is usually a firkin (9 gallons) although brewers supplying CAMRA's Great British Beer Festival are asked to use kilderkins (18 gallons)).

Photo: Mark Geeson

Bitter, Mild and (seasonally) XXX are the three Batham's beers served. Roger Protz's 'Black Country family affairs' article in What's Brewing (January 2020, with same text as linked Protz On Beer blog post) has more details about Batham's 'delicious and uncomplicated' beers, from the brewery located behind the pub.
After this enjoyable introduction to the Black Country and its beers we would catch a bus back to Stourbridge and our hotel for rest before a visit to Walsall the next day.

Brakspear brewery tour with Reading CAMRA

Thanks to Reading CAMRA, Quinten Taylor and the Clifton Arms in Caversham for the opportunity to join a trip to Witney for a Brakspear /Wychwood Brewery tour on Saturday 23 November, 2019.

Quinno's joining instructions mention 'We will be departing from the car park at the Clifton Arms in Caversham at 12 noon sharp - we won't wait around for stragglers, so make every effort to be a few minutes early. The pub will be open to prior to departure from 11am. As they have been instrumental in helping us secure this tour, please consider getting drink before or after the trip to show your appreciation.'

Following these instructions gave me a chance to drink a half pint of Brakspear Gravity (recently rebadged Brakspear Bitter), before boarding the minibus in the pub's car park.
Departure was delayed until 11.10am but one missing member failed to arrive. About 20 minutes later Quinno received a phone call to say that the latecomer had seen our minibus driving off from a short distance away. An otherwise uneventful journey, via Swinford toll bridge, resulted in our arrival at the brewery by 12.15pm.

An iconic, carved Hobgoblin figure stands at the public entrance to the brewery and taproom.

We entered and ordered beers from the bar in the cellar taproom. The bar prices charged here are reasonable eg £1.70 for half pint of Brakspear Gravity.

Chris, our tour guide, would later tell us that the taproom has been open to the public for 9 months and that the circular floor of the original Brakspear mash tun is now repurposed as a feature of the taproom floor (photo above).

The taproom was busy but I found a stool to sit on facing Quinno (photo).

When it was time for our tour, we headed for the bar reserved for tour groups, passing some members who would rejoin the main group after finding space in the overflow seating area for the taproom.

The passage leading to the tour group bar passes some framed original pastel artwork used for subtly advertising Brakspear beer.

As part of the tour, Chris poured us our choice of beer before giving an introductory talk about the history of the brewery.
Brewing started at the Eagle Brewery premises in Witney in 1831 as Clinch & Co.. In those days there was also a maltings and a stables associated with the brewery. In 1961 Courage bought Clinch & Co for its pub estate and closed down the brewery. In 1983 Paddy Glenny rented part of the site and established Glenny Brewery. Chris Moss took over and changed the name to Wychwood Brewery in 1989. Beers were named after Wychwood Forest myths and legends with Hobgoblin as the best known ruby beer.
The brewery was taken over by Refresh UK, a subsidiary of Marston's in 2002. Marston's bought Refresh and Wychwood Brewery outright in 2008. Jon Tillson was appointed Head Brewer in 2018.

The Cross Keys, Witney, was the original home of Brakspear Brewery. In 1769, Robert Brakspear became the pub landlord and this is where Brakspear Bitter was first brewed. In 1779, Robert and his uncle Richard Hayward moved to the Bell Street brewery in Henley-on-Thames. in 1812, the brewery moved to New Street in Henley.

In 2002, Brakspear moved away from direct brewing and its beers were brewed under licence at Wychwood Brewery in Witney. Vessels including the top of the copper and the double drop fermenting vessels were moved from Henley to Witney.
Chris mentioned that bottling and kegging for Wychwood and Brakspear beers has been done at Marston's in Burton-upon-Trent for some years but that more recently casking has also moved there. A tanker takes beer from the brewery to Burton leaving at 4am.

Chris led us into the brewery for the tour.

Standing in front of the white grist cage, Chris pointed out some other equipment including the red roller mill. The whirlpool is on the left of the photo above. He explained that separate yeast strains are used for Wychwood and Brakspear beers which are stored separately.

We walked to the other side of the building and Chris showed us some Isinglass from Brazilian lumpfish that is used for fining beer. There is a framed poster, showing the layout of the brewery. Chris also passed round small containers of different malts to taste and hops to sniff.

We were standing near the wooden steps to a platform around the Copper which has an open chimney above. The next stage was to climb the steps for a view of the rest of the brewery.

A large square shaped vessel at the back on the left is the Hot Liquor Tank. The nearer, circular vessel is the mash tun. Chris explained the brewing process and mentioned that the capacity of the Copper is 29,000 pints and that there are 10 brews per week.

The final stage was to see the Double Drop fermentation system used exclusively for Brakspear beers.

Chris explained that the wort is fed from the copper to the whirlpool and then via a heat exchanger to the circular top fermenting vessel where it rests for four hours. It is then allowed to drop, by gravity, into the square vessels below for the final fermentation period. The drop process adds some oxygen and also allows some sediment to be left behind in the top vessel.

The final part of our visit was an opportunity to taste a variety of bottled beers produced at Wychwood brewery. Chris opened a pair of bottles which were passed around our group to pour and then taste and offer comments about the flavours and ingredients. On this occasion, we tasted Arrowaine (3.6% ABV Mild), Brakspear Oxford Gold (4.6% ABV), Imperial Red (4.7% ABV brewed with Scottish rolled oats), King Goblin (6.6% ABV brewed with chocolate, crystal and pale malts), Black Wych (5% ABV also brewed with Scottish rolled oats) and Bah Humbug! (5% ABV spiced with cinnamon and cloves).
We learned that many of the distinctive label designs for Wychwood beers like Hobgoblin and Black Wych are the work of artist Ed Org.
There are various historic mementos in the brewery tour bar.

Chris told us about Piledriver, a beer named after Status Quo's fifth album. The giant label is signed by members of the band.

We also heard about the framed photo of the occasion when David Cameron presented Barack Obama with a bottle of Hobgoblin in 2011.
Our guide Chris had plenty of other interesting tales and some good jokes and earned our thanks after answering remaining questions before it was time to leave, nearly two hours after the start of the tour. Before leaving we were each given a souvenir half pint Wychwood beer glass.

Finally, there was a chance to visit the store which has merchandise and a large range of bottled beers at reasonable prices.

Details from 2019 Wychwood Brewery taproom, store & tours leaflet:
Brewery Store: Mon - Sat 10am - 5pm
Wychwood Brewery Tap: Wed, Thu 5pm - 10pm; Fri 2pm - 10pm; Sat 12pm - 10pm, Sun 12pm - 6pm
Tours: (£12 per person): Thu, Fri 3pm, 6pm; Sat 11am, 11.30am, 1.30pm, 2pm, 4pm & 4.30pm; Sun 2pm & 2.30pm
Check availability and book at www.wychwood.co.uk

Wychwood Brewery, Eagle Maltings, The Crofts, Witney.  OX28 4DB
.

MoogBREW Taproom

A guest post by Alan Haselden, a CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) member who contributes articles to Ullage, the West Berkshire CAMRA magazine and to Out Inn Cheshire, the Cheshire CAMRA branches' magazine. Alan serves annually at CAMRA's Cheshire Beer Festival.

Margi and Id, owners of Taplow's moogBREW, warmly welcomed the Big Berkshire Ale Hike team during a break from their Thames Path jaunt on the final yet inclement day of British Summer Time.

Located some 10 minutes' walk of Taplow's railway station they brew a broad range of ale types and strengths mainly for key cask [live, cask conditioned ale in a bag within a plastic keg], bottles, cans and occasionally traditional cask. They tend to open to the public on selected Saturdays, which are indicated in advance on their website.

In their smart, snug timber outhouse, capacity barely a dozen, they were serving the 3.5% pale ale 'Wild Hop', the 6% IPA 'Bastard Bunny Strikes Back', the 6.2% speciality ale 'Pretty in Pink' and the 7% stout 'Fast Gerald's Stout'. 

The drizzly, blustery conditions kept us sitting indoors but during fine weather customers can relax in the extensive garden which is well stocked with benches and gazebos. Ale is served in two-third pint measures or less and each is assigned an amusing yet menacing cartoon pump clip. 

The smooth session ale 'Wild Hop' is made from hops picked by Margi from the surrounding countryside; the stout is a typical dry yet potent example but my firm favourite was the flamboyant 'Pretty in Pink', which is pale in colour and infused with pink peppercorn and juniper: its intricate flavour profile is a weaving of grassy, herby notes with touches of lavender and oil of bergamot that doesn't outstay its welcome. 

And I hope our team didn't outstay our welcome because we were there for nearly three hours enjoying the ale and conversing with the locals while the jukebox skanked joyfully through a endless stream of 1970's dub reggae. Well done Margi and Id. We shall be back.

Quinno in Kiev

A guest post by Quinten Taylor, Vice Chair of Reading CAMRA (2019) who is on Twitter as @SirQuinno

An article about the joys of Ukrainian beer and bars? Really? Absolutely! Having ventured out to a country I knew little of I was deeply impressed by how good the scene is out there. For brevity I’ll concentrate on Kiev as the capital and main destination for international flights. Distance per pound ratio is cheap compared to many other European destinations; at the time of writing, a return direct flight will set you back around £200 – not bad for 1,500 miles and three and a half hours!

The Motherland Monument, Kiev

Kiev is a large and modern metropolis of just under 3 million people and has a huge footprint. The bars are spread across the city centre so be prepared to walk up a thirst. 

English is not widely spoken or understood in Ukraine though a number of the younger bar staff know enough to make ordering relatively straightforward… and don’t forget that a few words of Ukrainian will get you a long way. 

Woolly Hops at Bolshaya Vasilkovskaya st

Ukrainians have an undeserved reputation for frostiness, most servers we encountered were friendly and curious to meet British beer tourists. Oh, and be prepared to use Google Translate on your mobile as some menus are in Cyrillic only!

Kiev central railway station

A quick run-down of the breweries. There is a new and fast-growing craft beer scene in Ukraine and the names I saw regularly around the bars included Tyspa, Ten Men, Didko, Varvar, Underwood, Volta, Rebrew and my stand-out, Gonzo. Ukrainian brewers are especially keen on sours, saisons and gose so keep an eye out for really off-beat interpretations including brewing with lime, apricot, blackberry and (memorably)… beetroot! Being so far away from any other major craft beer nation means that genuine experimentation is rife.

People's Friendship Arch - painted crack added since Russian annexation of Crimea

Rather than attempting to weave a narrative tapestry, I’ll go through the bars below with a pen-pic of each one. Think of it as a ‘cut-out-and-keep’ guide for your trip!

Vidro - beers with quartered pork & chicken bar snack

Vidro (Tarasa Shevchenka). Bar service
Close to Maidan Square, the heartbeat of the city, and therefore likely your accommodation. This is a simple long narrow place and almost micropub-like. 12 taps across most of the obvious styles. Gonzo predominates and we enjoyed their APA, Lavender Milk Stout and Raspberry Gose.

Woolly Hops (Bolshaya Vasilkovskaya). Table service
A fairly small wooden shack on the main road away from most tourists. 24 lines plus plentiful bottles. Staff a little hesitant but we got there. Oddly there is no bar, unobvious table service results in beer emerging from a downstairs cellar. Menu mainly in Cyrillic.

Bimbo (Volodymyro-Lybidska). Counter service
A little different, this is foremost a coffee outlet that also sells two dozen or so well-selected bottled beers from Ukraine and Poland (the Underwood Lime Saison was excellent). The staff here are very friendly. It was the bar’s birthday and coincidentally Mrs Quinno’s – on hearing this, they presented her with a gratis pavlova!

Taphouse (Yaroslaviv Val). Table service
Despite being labelled as owned by Collider brewery on Google there were none of their beers here; instead there was a similar (if reduced) menu to Woolly Hops that made me think they are now owned by the same people. Memorable for trying a beer from Tyspa called Kvass, made from black bread - a local speciality!

Solomyanska (Solomyanska Square). Bar service
Situated in a pretty part of the old town, this is a brewpub that’s more a gastro joint; more foody than beery and a bored-looking girl sat behind a desk at the entrance who asked if we had a table. We were fine to just have the beer (great!) but we were ordered to sit at the bar and were the only people doing so. We got a flight of their six beers, none of which were particularly memorable.

Punkraft (14 Ihorivska). Table service (or bar if you sit there)
A new cellar bar which felt the most recognisable as what we’d know as a craft bar. Orange and black inside with two smart bricked arch rooms behind. Parked ourselves at the bar and got served after a while but it looks like table service is the norm. 24 taps with 14 Ukrainian. We went for Didko Crye a hefty IPA and Rebrew Waka Coconut labelled as an ‘MIPA’, a new one on me!

Drunken Monkey (1 Kostiantynivska). Bar service
20 taps and a jumbo digital display board in Latin with a good range of styles and uniformly excellent quality. A memorable beer here was Underwood ‘Feel the Beet’ a beetroot sour. Russian spoken here more obviously than elsewhere and more of a pubby atmosphere as well. Probably my favourite.

Gonzo (19 Kostiantynivska). Table service
Brand new cellar bar operated by Gonzo brewery. 19 taps, mainly theirs with some guests. Fruit fans will enjoy it here, we had an excellent Mandarin APA and a Blackcurrent Gose. Staff were a bit flaky but it had only been open a few days, of course.

Craft vs Pub (Nyzhnii Val). Table or bar service
17 lines here in this fairly basic cellar bar with a number of breweries that were new to us and also some niche styles. Gremlin Good Girl Milkshake was declared ‘beer of the trip’ by Mrs Quinno.

Old Bar (off Velyka Vasylkivska). Table service
Off the main street by the McDonald's and metro (look for the sign by the alleyway entrance), housed in a polygonal shaped wooden construction. Self-proclaimed slogan of 'old bar, new beer'. Service swift and slightly aloof. However there’s 28 taps and the best range of bottles in Kiev.

Varvar (Saksahanskoho). Table service (or bar if you sit there)
There are two Varvar brewery owned bars in Kiev, this is newer one in the city centre. The interior is professionally crisp with much exposed light brick. 14 taps, mainly theirs with the odd guest. Tasters readily offered by friendly and professional staff.

Pivna Duma (various locations). Table service.
A small chain of brewpub restaurants throughout Kiev, we did the one by the train station. Most people were here to eat, but drinking at the bar is fine once the staff have understood you are beer tourists but it did feel a little odd. We took a flight of the 5 homebrews, with the dark and IPA most drinkable.

Tim adds – Cheers Quinno! Look out for edited print versions of Quinno’s Kiev guide in a future issue of Ullage (West Berkshire CAMRA magazine) and Mine’s a Pint (Reading CAMRA magazine).

Anyone with a story suitable for publication in Ullage and / or as a guest post in BeerEurope is welcome to submit details to Tim via editor@westberkscamra.org.uk