Ale Trail ends in Hackney Wick

After days of snow, the weather relented and Paul Rayner's East London Ale Trail could go ahead as planned on Saturday 3 March, 2018.

My morning train from Newbury to London Paddington ran on time allowing arrival at Whitechapel tube station rendezvous by 11.30am. Our small group called in for beers at most of the places on the map Paul had devised.

The White Hart Brewpub, 1 Mile End Road
Mother Kelly's, 251 Paradise Row
Forest Road Brewing Co, 8 Netil Lane
London Fields Brewery Tap Room, 365-366 Warburton St
The Dove, 24/28 Broadway Market 
The Cock Tavern, 315 Mare St

The Cock Tavern E8 - Brewpub with 24 taps of indy beer & cider

Paul mentioned that The Cock Tavern was once a Truman's pub with a typical entrance door on a corner. More recently the pub's basement was the original home of Howling Hops Brewery. In January 2018 @TheCockTavernE8 tweeted that 'Tim & his team from @HowlingHops will be brewing at The Cock again soon! They'll use the OG kit for interesting small batch stuff available exclusively here on the bar.'

John, Paul, Jennie & Andy - The Cock Tavern E8

Sat around a table away from the door, we decided to skip intermediate stops on the planned trail and catch an Overground train from Hackney Central to Hackney Wick (2 stops towards Stratford).

Meanwhile, Andy Pinkard would leave the ale trail here and catch an Overground train in the opposite direction to Highbury & Islington.

new Hackney Wick station construction on left

Our group alighted at Hackney Wick, where there is evidence of construction work for a new station building. 

We walked to Crate Brewery via White Post Lane where large blocks of flats are under construction. The barrier screens around the building site are covered in street art and graffiti.

Howling Hops and Crate Bar both have entrances from an open area. On the far side of the Lee Navigation smoke or steam emerges from a power station chimney. 

We headed to Crate Brewery first. A stainless steel extract chimney services the pizza ovens just inside the entrance.

The bar furnishings are industrial style and appropriate for the warehouse type setting. The open pizzeria kitchen occupies the space behind the bar.

A range of Crate cask and keg beers are served. Pizza menus are available from a cylindrical stand.

My choice here was Crate Session IPA (£2.10 for a half pint). Having enjoyed several good pale ales already today, this Session IPA was somewhat disappointing but this can partly be explained by the low 3.6% ABV and my jaded tastebuds. As there were no free seats at the large tables we stood near the windows overlooking the Lee Navigation where extra outside seating is popular on warmer days. The soundtrack was obscure but distinctive house music style at a medium volume. At one point we were identified as potential brewery tour ticket holders waiting to be inducted but this was a mistake. After a short wait the generous offer of a slice of Paul and Jennie's pizza with a sweet potato topping was delicious and welcome nourishment.

It was only a minute's walk from here to Howling Hops Tank Bar and it was still daylight when we went inside.

The ten tanks, standing immediately behind the long bar, are near the entrance.

My beer choice here was from tank 3. New England Special IPA hopped with Mosaic, Motueka and Citra. It was my favouite beer on this visit to Hackney Wick.

This was 6.9% ABV so the standard 2/3 pint dimpled glass cost £4.10. Beers with ABV of less than 6% cost £3.10.

Nearly all the tables were full but Jennie found a gap where the four of us could squeeze onto opposite bench seats. I generally like New England IPA style beers and the Howling Hops example was no exception. There is no canal view here but the 'beer hall' style room was light and expansive. As the light outside dimmed, the volume of conversation inside rose and the lack of soft furnishing did nothing to absorb this sound. 

We emerged into twilight and crossed the Lee Navigation using the White Post Lane bridge. The lights from the Arcelor Mittal Orbit and the London Stadium, now home to West Ham United, were visible in the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park to the south east.

Heading north along the towpath of the Lee Navigation we passed the white Crate Brewery building and then passed under the railway bridge. 

We continued on, past canal boats moored to the banks, underneath a pedestrian bridge and reached the new building partly occupied by Mason & Company, our final destination on the trail.

As we had found earlier at Mother Kelly's, the changing draught beer list was detailed on a printed menu available at the bar. 

There were 5 beers from Five Points Brewing Co and many from breweries based in the South West of England including Harbour, Wiper & True, Verdant, Wild Beer Co (2), Eight Arch, Firebrand, Electric Bear. Other beers were from Affinity (Bermondsey), Zapato, UK (Leeds), Brewsters (Grantham) and De La Senne (Brussels) as well as an urban cider from Hawkes Cidery (Bermondsey).
My choice of Five Points XPA (Extra Pale Ale, 4% ABV) was £2.35 1/2 pint. At the end of a day spent drinking pale, hoppy beers, this one did not especially impress as much as it would have done otherwise.

After the well worn surroundings of Howling Hops Tank Bar, the clean lines of Mason & Company were a complete contrast. The pale wood gives a Scandinavian feel. The low tables and benches are slightly spaced apart giving more room and privacy but not much more comfort.
From here it was possible to return to Paddington in less than an hour by Overground and Tube and with train services disrupted it was possible to catch the delayed 20.03 train that would otherwise have left before my arrival.
Thanks go to Paul and Jennie for arranging this ale trail. Keep an eye on Paul's Twitter account and blog for trails in other destinations including an East Bristol Brewery Trail and reports on beer festivals.

Barcelona on a Tuesday evening

After Saturday evening (27 January) and Tuesday afternoon (30 January) in Barcelona, this third blog post is the final report on my 2018 quest for the beet Barcelona beer bars!

Two blocks south east from BierCaB leads to the taproom for the Barcelona Beer Company at Carrer de Muntaner 7. 

It was hard to get a good exterior photo as there was scaffolding around the building. In contrast to other bars I had visited which had a narrow entrance and deep interior, this layout was wide at the front with plenty of windows. There are some standard height tables near the bar as well as high level tables near the windows. Rather than locals or beer enthusiasts the customers here seemed more like tourists or students.

I found a table in a quiet spot with a good view of the bar and checked the screen for which beer to choose from the 16 taps. 

Barcelona, brewed by Barcelona Beer Company, a 5% American Pale Ale brewed with Magnum, Perle and Cascade hops from tap 1 was served to my table in a stemmed glass (25cl / 2.80 euros) with a free helping of peanuts. 

There are some quirky graphic designs on the end walls of the taproom.

There's even a framed photo of Eric Cantona.

Although the taproom was a bit bright and basic there was time for another beer here and this time Miss Hops from tap 7 was my choice. 

This 6% ABV India Pale Ale brewed with Simcoe and Amarillo had more bitterness than Barcelona.
A mile long walk towards Parque De Joan Miró (Sants) was now in prospect involving eight blocks south west and one block north west.

En route a window display of colourful USB stick holders caught my eye - quite a selection!

A parked blue scooter provided another distraction.
It was a relief to reach Cerveseria La Més Petita at Carrer de la Diputació 30 and find a free bar stool at the 'smallest beer bar'. 

I spotted a pale ale on a blackboard to order. It was a surprise when the proprietor immediately disappeared out of the front door but he soon returned with a bottle of Barcelonina for me. This was from Ratpenat Cervesers where he is a brewer. For 3 euros this 5.1% ABV pale ale with citrus notes was good value.

Producing a copy of West Berkshire CAMRA's Ullage magazine, I was able to persuade the multi-talented Loren Font to pose for a photo in front of the range of 8 beer fonts (see what I did there?!).

I observed a small group of English drinkers come into the bar and order pints of Lager Ritual from tap 8. In my initial haste to order I had looked at the smaller bottles blackboard instead of the taps blackboard but for my next beer I would simplify Loren's job and also ordered a glass of Lager Ritual from As Cerveser, brewed at Montornés del Vallès in the province of Barcelona. The refreshing 25cl glass of gluten free pilsner cost 3.50 euros. 

Cerveseria La Més Petita is a good place for beer enthusiasts to find local draught beers with typically six from the Barcelona / Tarragona area complemented by a German wheat beer and a Belgian triple. 
As its name suggests this bar is akin to a UK micropub albeit with fonts instead of handpumps to serve the beer. Due to its small size it may be crowded at weekends!

My plan was to enjoy a meal at the branch of Mussol restaurant in Las Arenas.at Plaça Espanya.
The impressive Las Arenas was designed by Catalan architect August Font i Carreras and opened in 1900 as a bullring. 22 years after closing in 1977, it was bought by Sacresa who gave Richard Rogers the task of converting it for shopping and entertainment which opened in 2011.
Escalators take visitors to the various levels and at the top are restaurants including Mussol. A disappointment was to be told on arrival that the restaurant was closed for a private function. 

View towards Palau Nacional, Montjuïc (top left)

At least the ascent was not a waste of time as the views towards Montjuïc from the circular platform could still be enjoyed.
Feeling even hungrier I headied west along Carrer de la Creu Coberta towards Plaça d'Osca, about a kilometre away.

En route, I was tempted by 'chip star' but instead found a nutritious meal at a kebab cafe.

Homo Sibaris - wide mirror reflects beer blackboard

It was quite late by the time I arrived at Homo Sibaris, Plaça d'Osca 4. This was the first beer bar I visited on arriving in Barcelona on Saturday and the last I would visit before departing on Wednesday.

Unlike Saturday, there was plenty of space at tables in the backroom but I chose to sit on a stool opposite the bar with a shelf to rest my beer on.

As on Saturday, Cervezas Populus cask Citra IPA, served from a handpump near the window was my first choice. The staff were busy clearing up at the end of the evening and a few customers were present.

Garage IPA from Barcelona was a new beer on the board since Saturday and would be my last beer in Barcelona and another thoroughly enjoyable one with medium bitterness.

After enjoying the friendly service here, I persuaded a member of staff to pose for a photo with Ullage before leaving. At Homo Sibaris you can expect a good choice of beers including several from local breweries. Food including sandwiches, cheeses and snacks can be provided at reasonable prices. This is a bar I will recommend to friends visiting the Sants area and one which will probably be me first and last port of call on future visits as well!

Barcelona on a Tuesday afternoon

After two sunny days on the Costa Maresme, I caught a RENFE Rodalies (Cercanias) train from Pineda de Mar to Barcelona Sants (5 euros) on Tuesday 30 January, 2018.

There is a train every 30 minutes for the line, partly single track, that runs next to the beach for most of the 75 minute journey.

Costa Maresme - view from the train near Pineda de Mar / Calella

Passengers for Barcelona airport can change at Sants for a further 17 minute journey.

Thankfully I had nearly 24 hours left to visit some more beer bars in Barcelona!

There is an impressive entrance to the Parc de l'Espanya immediately south of Sants station.

100 metres further, just beyond Hotel Transit, I visited Zarautz for lunch of San Sebastian style pintxos and local Estrella Damm lager.

After checking into Hotel Transit I caught the green line (3) Metro from Tarragona to Diagonal (2.20 euros fare) in the Eixample district.

Emerging onto Passeig de Gracia after the 17 minute journey, it was a treat to see Antoni Gaudí's Casa Milà, popularly known as La Pedrera, on the corner of Carrer de Provença.

Four blocks south west along Carrer de Provenca (171) leads to L´Espumossa Art & Cervesa Bar. Unfortunately it was closed for siesta time (15.00-17.00).

For readers of this blog it was worth taking photos of the menu and beer tap list blackboard displayed in the front window. 

Two blocks south east finds Mikkeller Bar Barcelona at Carrer de València 202 which was open and quiet at this time of day. The blackboard gives details of the lunchtime menu of the day - 11.50 euros and served from 1pm - 4pm.

Just inside, a colour-coded blackboard gives early notice of what beers are served from the 24 taps at the far end of the room.

The long room is furnished with Danish style furniture and light fittings in a style that will look familiar to anyone who has visited Mikkeller bars in Copenhagen.

Taking a seat at the bar, I explained my preference for pale beers to the barman who suggested Mikkeller Weird Weather Lactose IIPA. A sample of the hazy 8.3% ABV beer proved it had minimal bitterness and was soft on the tongue so the small glass ordered (4.5 euros) was a good beer to drink slowly.

As the only customer at the bar, there was a chance to chat with Martin the barman and discover that he prefers Barcelona to his Mallorca base in the winter months and that he originally hails from Uruguay. He kindly posed for a photo with a copy of Ullage, the West Berkshire CAMRA magazine and allowed me to leave it in the magazine rack for others to read.

Martin agreed with me that the bar is spacious and that space between tables allows customers more privacy than in a more compact bar. He suggested a visit to NaparBCN as another Barcelona bar that nails it as a nice place with good food.

Anakena House - museum entrance on right side of building

Before heading for nearby NaparBcn, there was time for a visit to the MMBCN / Museo del Modernisme, Carrer de Balmes 48, two blocks north east and then two blocks south east.

Coffer / desk by Joan Busquets (1905)

This small museum includes furniture, sculpture, mosaics and paintings from the era of Catalan Modernism (1888-1911). 

Following Martin's advice my next destination was NaparBCN, This was my second disappointment of the day. The doors were closed and an A4 sheet of paper was pinned at eye level - Hoy con motivo de la presentacion de productos Redken Brews, el local permnecera cerrado al publico general. Disculpen las molestias. I don't speak Spanish but I know that cerrado means closed so I had to make do with an exterior photo for this blog post. 

Heading two blocks south west and one block north west took me back to BierCaB, previously visited on Saturday night and where the excellent service was mentioned in my last blog post.

On this occasion there were plenty of spare seats so I was able to sit on a tall chair at one of the stylish metal tables that hang down and protrude from the side wall.
From tap 9, a change since Saturday, was Naparbier Capicua 1, a 5.4% New England IPA. Having missed a chance to taste Naparbier at the brewery's Barcelona outlet and as I enjoy this style, this was the obvious choice. The 25cl measure cost 4 euros and earned a good score from me (timofnewbury) on Untappd.  

A framed blackboard listed Tapas options but my eyes were checking the screens above the bar to choose my next beer.

From tap 10, a beer from Hamilton, Ontario, Ransack the Universe, brewed by Collective Arts Brewing was my second choice. Rich marmalade notes were revealed in this 6.8% ABV IPA.
Once again, with Manuel, at the helm, service at BierCaB was impeccable. 
My Tuesday afternoon in Barcelona was now over. To follow my Tuesday evening in Barcelona, which would begin at Barcelona Beer Company, look out for the next BeerEurope blog post.