Barcelona on a Tuesday afternoon

After two sunny days on the Costa Maresme, I caught a RENFE Rodalies (Cercanias) train from Pineda de Mar to Barcelona Sants (5 euros) on Tuesday 30 January, 2018.

There is a train every 30 minutes for the line, partly single track, that runs next to the beach for most of the 75 minute journey.

Costa Maresme - view from the train near Pineda de Mar / Calella

Passengers for Barcelona airport can change at Sants for a further 17 minute journey.

Thankfully I had nearly 24 hours left to visit some more beer bars in Barcelona!

There is an impressive entrance to the Parc de l'Espanya immediately south of Sants station.

100 metres further, just beyond Hotel Transit, I visited Zarautz for lunch of San Sebastian style pintxos and local Estrella Damm lager.

After checking into Hotel Transit I caught the green line (3) Metro from Tarragona to Diagonal (2.20 euros fare) in the Eixample district.

Emerging onto Passeig de Gracia after the 17 minute journey, it was a treat to see Antoni Gaudí's Casa Milà, popularly known as La Pedrera, on the corner of Carrer de Provença.

Four blocks south west along Carrer de Provenca (171) leads to L´Espumossa Art & Cervesa Bar. Unfortunately it was closed for siesta time (15.00-17.00).

For readers of this blog it was worth taking photos of the menu and beer tap list blackboard displayed in the front window. 

Two blocks south east finds Mikkeller Bar Barcelona at Carrer de València 202 which was open and quiet at this time of day. The blackboard gives details of the lunchtime menu of the day - 11.50 euros and served from 1pm - 4pm.

Just inside, a colour-coded blackboard gives early notice of what beers are served from the 24 taps at the far end of the room.

The long room is furnished with Danish style furniture and light fittings in a style that will look familiar to anyone who has visited Mikkeller bars in Copenhagen.

Taking a seat at the bar, I explained my preference for pale beers to the barman who suggested Mikkeller Weird Weather Lactose IIPA. A sample of the hazy 8.3% ABV beer proved it had minimal bitterness and was soft on the tongue so the small glass ordered (4.5 euros) was a good beer to drink slowly.

As the only customer at the bar, there was a chance to chat with Martin the barman and discover that he prefers Barcelona to his Mallorca base in the winter months and that he originally hails from Uruguay. He kindly posed for a photo with a copy of Ullage, the West Berkshire CAMRA magazine and allowed me to leave it in the magazine rack for others to read.

Martin agreed with me that the bar is spacious and that space between tables allows customers more privacy than in a more compact bar. He suggested a visit to NaparBCN as another Barcelona bar that nails it as a nice place with good food.

Anakena House - museum entrance on right side of building

Before heading for nearby NaparBcn, there was time for a visit to the MMBCN / Museo del Modernisme, Carrer de Balmes 48, two blocks north east and then two blocks south east.

Coffer / desk by Joan Busquets (1905)

This small museum includes furniture, sculpture, mosaics and paintings from the era of Catalan Modernism (1888-1911). 

Following Martin's advice my next destination was NaparBCN, This was my second disappointment of the day. The doors were closed and an A4 sheet of paper was pinned at eye level - Hoy con motivo de la presentacion de productos Redken Brews, el local permnecera cerrado al publico general. Disculpen las molestias. I don't speak Spanish but I know that cerrado means closed so I had to make do with an exterior photo for this blog post. 

Heading two blocks south west and one block north west took me back to BierCaB, previously visited on Saturday night and where the excellent service was mentioned in my last blog post.

On this occasion there were plenty of spare seats so I was able to sit on a tall chair at one of the stylish metal tables that hang down and protrude from the side wall.
From tap 9, a change since Saturday, was Naparbier Capicua 1, a 5.4% New England IPA. Having missed a chance to taste Naparbier at the brewery's Barcelona outlet and as I enjoy this style, this was the obvious choice. The 25cl measure cost 4 euros and earned a good score from me (timofnewbury) on Untappd.  

A framed blackboard listed Tapas options but my eyes were checking the screens above the bar to choose my next beer.

From tap 10, a beer from Hamilton, Ontario, Ransack the Universe, brewed by Collective Arts Brewing was my second choice. Rich marmalade notes were revealed in this 6.8% ABV IPA.
Once again, with Manuel, at the helm, service at BierCaB was impeccable. 
My Tuesday afternoon in Barcelona was now over. To follow my Tuesday evening in Barcelona, which would begin at Barcelona Beer Company, look out for the next BeerEurope blog post.

Barcelona on a Saturday night

There was fine but overcast weather at Barcelona airport at 6pm on Saturday 27 January, 2018.

Barcelona airport - view from bridge linking terminal 1 with station.

On arrival, a long queue for face to face passport control was bypassed thanks to the alternative of a lane of automated passport readers with cameras. Terminal 2, used by EasyJet, is the furthest from the station but free shuttle buses to the closer terminal are available. From terminal 1 a bridge crosses car parks to the station.

An adult single fare on the half-hourly RENFE Rodalies (Cercanias) service to central Barcelona (4 zones) cost 4.20 euros with ticket machines accepting coins, notes and cards.

The ticket is needed again to exit through barriers at Barcelona Sants station. This is a short distance from Hotel Transit which provided good value accommodation for my basic requirements.

My research, backed up by Richard Lock's advice, suggested a visit to nearby Homo Sibaris at Plaça Osca 4.

Inside the only space left was near the door with a good view of the bar. Draught beers were marked on individual blackboards behind the bar. The list included beers from the UK (Vibrant Forest & Moor), Germany (Ayinger, Camba), Belgium (St Feuillen & Oud Beersel) and Spain / Catalonia (Barbas Beer Project, Holz, La Pirata, Populus).

The Populus Citra IPA in the top left position corresponded with the first handpump at the window side of the bar. A second handpump served Cambrian Root (Vibrant Forest stout). I ordered a pint of Citra IPA for 5.75 euros. This 6.2% ABV IPA was full flavoured and not too bitter. There was no need to pay on ordering and I would later remember to pay before leaving.

The staff were kept busy pouring and serving beers as well as preparing snacks in the miniature open kitchen at the far end of the bar. I would return to this bar in three days time and a companion blog post will include further photos.

Homo Sibaris bottle shop - Carrer de Riego 16

Most of the other bars researched in advance were in the Eixample district and this is where I headed after passing the sister bottle shop for Homo Sibaris.

BrewDog, Barcelona

BrewDog Barcelona, Carrer de Casanova 69, was reached after walking for 2km and crossing multiple road junctions. As there were no obvious Spanish or Catalonian beers in pale ale or IPA styles available, this brief visit was simply for a look around the bar which opened in 2015.

BierCaB

A block away, BierCaB, at Carrer de Muntaner 55, was busy but, I was impressed that the barman caught my eye as I walked past the bar and immediately took my order. Some quick thinking was needed but Naparbier was the local brewery name I recognised on the screen listing 30 taps so my choice was Mad Clown, a 5.7% ABV extra pale ale on tap 16. The small 25 cl glass cost 4 euros and after paying I took it to a standing spot as all the tables were occupied. It was interesting to note that there were beers from several UK breweries including Mad Hatter, Wild Beer and Beavertown.

This gave me a chance to look around and admire the style of the large room which was furnished with custom made high metal tables and decorated in a theme involving planks of wood at higher and ceiling levels.

Before leaving I was glad to have a chance to hand Manuel, the expert barman who had served me, a copy of Ullage, the West Berkshire CAMRA magazine. As with Homo Sibaris, I would return to this bar in three days time and a companion blog post will include further photos.

Garage Beer Co

Less than a block away. Garage Beer Co at Carrer del Consell de Cent 261 was lively.

The list of beers was displayed in industrial style. I was lucky to find a seat at the bar. My first question about a beer from the handpump was answered in the negative.

Choosing from the 11 house beers I picked Soup (6% ABV). This small glass cost 3.5 euros. Appropriately murky the style could be described as New England IPA and was a good example.

The decor behind the bar includes an animal's skull and a shelf of cans. This is a bar to recommend for anyone whose favourite style is pale ales and IPA which seem to be the preferred Garage styles. A guest wheat beer was also available - Anno 25 from Bavaria's Aktienbrauerei Kaufbeuren.

It was getting late and I was getting hungry so it was lucky to walk past Mussol (Aragó) restaurant at Carrer d'Aragó 261 and discover it was possible to enjoy a glass of Penedes white wine, Catalan style BBQ Chicken with mushroom sauce and chips for less than 10 euros (2.60 + 6.90).

CocoVail Beer Hall

CocoVail Beer Hall is only one block further east at Carrer d'Aragó 284. Cocovail opened in August 2016 as a 'beach culture' Americana beer hall with Argentinian and American influences.

There was a choice of beers from 24 taps. A big blackboard behind the bar listed name, brewery, style, ABV, IBU and price for half and pint glasses. 

Looking for another local pale ale I chose Edge Brewing Panacea (5.5% ABV, 6 euro pint) and took my glass to the end of a long high table which had aome spare seats. 

The colourful decor inside the beer hall includes beach scenes and surf boards.

A final treat before catching the late night Metro from Paseig de Gracia station was to see Antoni Gaudi's Casa Battlo theatrically lit at Paseig de Gracia 43.

The Metro fare to get back to my hotel in Sants via Tarragona metro station on (green) line 3 was 2.20 euros. 

Edinburgh on Sunday

Arriving in Edinburgh early on a wet Sunday morning with a suitcase, the Booking Office (Wetherspoon), above Edinburgh Waverley station, proved a good place to spend some time before checking in to my hotel.

An indoor spot by the patio area gave views towards Edinburgh castle and passing tour buses.

The unlimited refills of Lavazza coffee kept me awake and gave me a 'seat ticket'.

The Edinburgh DAYticket (£4 for City zone) for trams and buses is good value especially if your budget hotel is near Gyle Centre tram stop, only a few miles from the airport.

The trams run frequently and there was always a seat available on the journeys I made.
Heading back to Edinburgh, after leaving my suitcase at the hotel, involved a slightly shorter journey - to Haymarket.

Thomson's Bar doesn't open until 4pm on a Sunday but I took an external photo of this Morrison Street pub which is included in CAMRA's Good Beer Guide 2017.

Edinburgh Castle from Grassmarket Square

Making full use of my DAYticket, I caught a number 2 bus up the hill to Bristo Place, passing Grassmarket and Greyfriars Kirkyard.

My research had shown that traditional music sessions are held at Sandy Bell's including one on Sunday afternoons from 4pm.

All the seats were taken so I stood by a window facing the bar with a pint of Dark Island from Orkney Brewery, a 4.6% ABV ale which has twice won CAMRA's Champion Beer of Scotland award (£3.80 pint).

While waiting for the music to start I looked around the pub and noticed the musical instruments above the bar.

An article about Sandy Bell's had been framed which mentioned how people used to phone the pub just to hear the traditional music being played on the other end of the line.

Gradually a music session developed where some musicians were seated at the far end of the pub.

Interest was also generated by the dog who appeared to be a regular fixture and comfortable in any position.

I returned to the bar and was impressed by Williams Brothers Joker IPA from a keg font (£2.20 for a half pint).

As the music session got going and more people joined in, there were also new customers arriving at the bar with a friendly atmosphere of general appreciation for the talents displayed. I was pleasantly surprised when new arrivals mistook me for a local on what was my first visit! Perhaps Sandy Bells is my natural home? I only wish there was a similar pub near Newbury!

Although I would have been happy to stay longer there were other bars to be visited and next for me was The Hanging Bat Beer Cafe, 133 Lothian Road, passed earlier in daylight.

The interior was suitably gothic and dimly lit. Here I enjoyed Tryst Brewery APA on cask (4.2% ABV, £3.40 for 2/3 pint - the standard measure here).

While I sat at a table, near the bar on the ground floor, there was the unusual but well-remembered sound of a typewriter being used from a lower floor.

It was now time to find an evening meal and I headed to the recently opened Caley Picture House for some typical Wetherspoon value.

The entrance hall features an antique piece of projection equipment somewhat in keeping with its previous role as a cinema.

The ground floor interior is impressive and spacious with a long bar.

Caledonian Deuchars IPA was an unadvernturous choice but a suitable beer to match my meal.

My only complaints here were that a visit to the toilets involves the time and effort of an heroic ascent to the balcony! At least this visit provided a view of the bar from a different perspective.
However, the tidying zeal of the staff meant that the balance of my pint had disappeared after returning to my table on the ground floor. Thankfully, an immediate complaint at the bar allowed me to be reinstated with my beer glass and no beer was lost on this occasion!

Suitably nourished and refreshed it was now only necessary to find a tram back to Gyle Centre from the West End - Princes Street stop.