Barcelona on a Saturday night

There was fine but overcast weather at Barcelona airport at 6pm on Saturday 27 January, 2018.

Barcelona airport - view from bridge linking terminal 1 with station.

On arrival, a long queue for face to face passport control was bypassed thanks to the alternative of a lane of automated passport readers with cameras. Terminal 2, used by EasyJet, is the furthest from the station but free shuttle buses to the closer terminal are available. From terminal 1 a bridge crosses car parks to the station.

An adult single fare on the half-hourly RENFE Rodalies (Cercanias) service to central Barcelona (4 zones) cost 4.20 euros with ticket machines accepting coins, notes and cards.

The ticket is needed again to exit through barriers at Barcelona Sants station. This is a short distance from Hotel Transit which provided good value accommodation for my basic requirements.

My research, backed up by Richard Lock's advice, suggested a visit to nearby Homo Sibaris at Plaça Osca 4.

Inside the only space left was near the door with a good view of the bar. Draught beers were marked on individual blackboards behind the bar. The list included beers from the UK (Vibrant Forest & Moor), Germany (Ayinger, Camba), Belgium (St Feuillen & Oud Beersel) and Spain / Catalonia (Barbas Beer Project, Holz, La Pirata, Populus).

The Populus Citra IPA in the top left position corresponded with the first handpump at the window side of the bar. A second handpump served Cambrian Root (Vibrant Forest stout). I ordered a pint of Citra IPA for 5.75 euros. This 6.2% ABV IPA was full flavoured and not too bitter. There was no need to pay on ordering and I would later remember to pay before leaving.

The staff were kept busy pouring and serving beers as well as preparing snacks in the miniature open kitchen at the far end of the bar. I would return to this bar in three days time and a companion blog post will include further photos.

Homo Sibaris bottle shop - Carrer de Riego 16

Most of the other bars researched in advance were in the Eixample district and this is where I headed after passing the sister bottle shop for Homo Sibaris.

BrewDog, Barcelona

BrewDog Barcelona, Carrer de Casanova 69, was reached after walking for 2km and crossing multiple road junctions. As there were no obvious Spanish or Catalonian beers in pale ale or IPA styles available, this brief visit was simply for a look around the bar which opened in 2015.

BierCaB

A block away, BierCaB, at Carrer de Muntaner 55, was busy but, I was impressed that the barman caught my eye as I walked past the bar and immediately took my order. Some quick thinking was needed but Naparbier was the local brewery name I recognised on the screen listing 30 taps so my choice was Mad Clown, a 5.7% ABV extra pale ale on tap 16. The small 25 cl glass cost 4 euros and after paying I took it to a standing spot as all the tables were occupied. It was interesting to note that there were beers from several UK breweries including Mad Hatter, Wild Beer and Beavertown.

This gave me a chance to look around and admire the style of the large room which was furnished with custom made high metal tables and decorated in a theme involving planks of wood at higher and ceiling levels.

Before leaving I was glad to have a chance to hand Manuel, the expert barman who had served me, a copy of Ullage, the West Berkshire CAMRA magazine. As with Homo Sibaris, I would return to this bar in three days time and a companion blog post will include further photos.

Garage Beer Co

Less than a block away. Garage Beer Co at Carrer del Consell de Cent 261 was lively.

The list of beers was displayed in industrial style. I was lucky to find a seat at the bar. My first question about a beer from the handpump was answered in the negative.

Choosing from the 11 house beers I picked Soup (6% ABV). This small glass cost 3.5 euros. Appropriately murky the style could be described as New England IPA and was a good example.

The decor behind the bar includes an animal's skull and a shelf of cans. This is a bar to recommend for anyone whose favourite style is pale ales and IPA which seem to be the preferred Garage styles. A guest wheat beer was also available - Anno 25 from Bavaria's Aktienbrauerei Kaufbeuren.

It was getting late and I was getting hungry so it was lucky to walk past Mussol (Aragó) restaurant at Carrer d'Aragó 261 and discover it was possible to enjoy a glass of Penedes white wine, Catalan style BBQ Chicken with mushroom sauce and chips for less than 10 euros (2.60 + 6.90).

CocoVail Beer Hall

CocoVail Beer Hall is only one block further east at Carrer d'Aragó 284. Cocovail opened in August 2016 as a 'beach culture' Americana beer hall with Argentinian and American influences.

There was a choice of beers from 24 taps. A big blackboard behind the bar listed name, brewery, style, ABV, IBU and price for half and pint glasses. 

Looking for another local pale ale I chose Edge Brewing Panacea (5.5% ABV, 6 euro pint) and took my glass to the end of a long high table which had aome spare seats. 

The colourful decor inside the beer hall includes beach scenes and surf boards.

A final treat before catching the late night Metro from Paseig de Gracia station was to see Antoni Gaudi's Casa Battlo theatrically lit at Paseig de Gracia 43.

The Metro fare to get back to my hotel in Sants via Tarragona metro station on (green) line 3 was 2.20 euros. 

Edinburgh on Sunday

Arriving in Edinburgh early on a wet Sunday morning with a suitcase, the Booking Office (Wetherspoon), above Edinburgh Waverley station, proved a good place to spend some time before checking in to my hotel.

An indoor spot by the patio area gave views towards Edinburgh castle and passing tour buses.

The unlimited refills of Lavazza coffee kept me awake and gave me a 'seat ticket'.

The Edinburgh DAYticket (£4 for City zone) for trams and buses is good value especially if your budget hotel is near Gyle Centre tram stop, only a few miles from the airport.

The trams run frequently and there was always a seat available on the journeys I made.
Heading back to Edinburgh, after leaving my suitcase at the hotel, involved a slightly shorter journey - to Haymarket.

Thomson's Bar doesn't open until 4pm on a Sunday but I took an external photo of this Morrison Street pub which is included in CAMRA's Good Beer Guide 2017.

Edinburgh Castle from Grassmarket Square

Making full use of my DAYticket, I caught a number 2 bus up the hill to Bristo Place, passing Grassmarket and Greyfriars Kirkyard.

My research had shown that traditional music sessions are held at Sandy Bell's including one on Sunday afternoons from 4pm.

All the seats were taken so I stood by a window facing the bar with a pint of Dark Island from Orkney Brewery, a 4.6% ABV ale which has twice won CAMRA's Champion Beer of Scotland award (£3.80 pint).

While waiting for the music to start I looked around the pub and noticed the musical instruments above the bar.

An article about Sandy Bell's had been framed which mentioned how people used to phone the pub just to hear the traditional music being played on the other end of the line.

Gradually a music session developed where some musicians were seated at the far end of the pub.

Interest was also generated by the dog who appeared to be a regular fixture and comfortable in any position.

I returned to the bar and was impressed by Williams Brothers Joker IPA from a keg font (£2.20 for a half pint).

As the music session got going and more people joined in, there were also new customers arriving at the bar with a friendly atmosphere of general appreciation for the talents displayed. I was pleasantly surprised when new arrivals mistook me for a local on what was my first visit! Perhaps Sandy Bells is my natural home? I only wish there was a similar pub near Newbury!

Although I would have been happy to stay longer there were other bars to be visited and next for me was The Hanging Bat Beer Cafe, 133 Lothian Road, passed earlier in daylight.

The interior was suitably gothic and dimly lit. Here I enjoyed Tryst Brewery APA on cask (4.2% ABV, £3.40 for 2/3 pint - the standard measure here).

While I sat at a table, near the bar on the ground floor, there was the unusual but well-remembered sound of a typewriter being used from a lower floor.

It was now time to find an evening meal and I headed to the recently opened Caley Picture House for some typical Wetherspoon value.

The entrance hall features an antique piece of projection equipment somewhat in keeping with its previous role as a cinema.

The ground floor interior is impressive and spacious with a long bar.

Caledonian Deuchars IPA was an unadvernturous choice but a suitable beer to match my meal.

My only complaints here were that a visit to the toilets involves the time and effort of an heroic ascent to the balcony! At least this visit provided a view of the bar from a different perspective.
However, the tidying zeal of the staff meant that the balance of my pint had disappeared after returning to my table on the ground floor. Thankfully, an immediate complaint at the bar allowed me to be reinstated with my beer glass and no beer was lost on this occasion!

Suitably nourished and refreshed it was now only necessary to find a tram back to Gyle Centre from the West End - Princes Street stop.

Edinburgh - The Oxford Bar

With its legendary status, derived from being featured in Inspector Rebus crime novels by Ian Rankin, the Oxford Bar was an Edinburgh pub to be visited with respect.

However, coffee and culture were first on my list for Monday 2 October, 2017. I walked from Haymarket station to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (Two) and found a table in the respectable setting of Cafe Modern Two.

This is a pleasant place to savour a coffee with its high ceilings and windows. Suitably refreshed, the True to Life exhibition, featuring British realist art from the inter-war period, was a rewarding treat.
The 13 bus to Queensferry Street saved some walking on the way to Young Street.

The Cambridge Bar, Young Street, Edinburgh

The Cambridge Bar was passed on the way to the nearby Oxford Bar. Burgers and sport on TV can be found inside as well as three ales from Scottish breweries.

The Oxford Bar, Young Street, Edinburgh

The Oxford Bar (The Ox) is situated on  a corner of the cobbled street in Edinburgh's New Town.

The sign over the door is recognised as an Edinburgh landmark. It is listed as number 100 in Edinburgh's 101 objects, a mapped project that reveals the city's history by This is Edinburgh.

The text from the leaflet displayed in the window explains that the inverted commas around Oxford are due to the original presence of an Oxford University Press depot along the road.

The pub looked closed but the door opened and I went into the simple bar on the left to order my beer before taking to a table in the room on the right. The half pint of 3.9% abv Pentland IPA straw-coloured session pale ale brewed in Loanhead, Edinburgh by Stewart Brewing cost £2 and was welcome refreshment.

The plain but attactrive fireplace is the main feature in this room which has dark furniture. A small TV sits on an elevated corner shelf but was switched off.

To reach the airport from here, involved a tram from Princes Street with an opportunity for the obligatory photo of Edinburgh Castle.

Once through security at Edinburgh airport, there was time for a pint at the Sir Walter Scott (Wetherspoon).

My table was near an ornate mirror which made the space more like a pub and less like an airport lounge.

However, an hour or so later, there could be no disguising the fact that I was in an aircraft as the Norwegian flight to Providence, Rhode Island, USA, flew west giving a good view of Edinburgh's three Forth bridges.

See the Dave's Bar & Grille blog post in BeerNorthAmerica for details of the next bar I would visit soon after landing in the USA.

The Oxford Bar,
8 Young Street,
Edinburgh  EH2 4JB

Open daily from 12 noon (11am Fri / Sat, 12.30am Sun)

'The Ox also manages to be centrally-located yet not easy to find' - Ian Rankin